Clean run with 40x.

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Impressive. Most impressive!

not sure how points are really working here
my hi is 1.2B, with of course also a clear run, also at X40, and at full speed from A to Z
almost you know you can do even higher
this pin is all about keeping that multiplicator at max, easy to say, hard to do, but so satisfying when it happends

Good job, it's better to illuminate in red the left side ( vader's handle )

Except they don't make EL tape that wide and long in Red that I have found.

For that matter, I'd be curious to know where you found the EL tape you used.

Also, the inverter used for EL panels tend to emit a high pitched noise which is really bothersome. Did you find an alternate higher quality inverter?

Cheers

We can use white EL tape with a red filter

Any LE owners out there want to move on and trade for my pristine and modded MBrSE? I have a SW Pro and looking to upgrade. Thx.

Optos problems on my hyperloop ramp (which is also used for mission start).

I'm really not familiar with Spike design, so any pointer on where these optos are connected? It's not crystal clear on the documentation

Also, it looks like the entire series of hyperloop optos is flaky, so I would assume the issue is at the main control electronic?

(edit) found it, it's actually rather clear once you spend the time to read the documentation with a different mindset than WPC. It's node 11 board, on the back panel

I fiddled with the connectors, none seemed disconnected but it seems to have resolved the issue. Until next time...

No, the high pitch is the annoying part that I still have not eliminated.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132328647953. You can find the same seller on the regular ebay site. But yeah, high pitched with the inverter that comes with it.

There are several inverter on Aliexpress which seem better designed, or at least you should be able to get access to the inside of the electronics. I have not yet tested them:

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32817257671.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.9ebbc06fBeKoCz&algo_pvid=b4cd5686-27d4-42f3-896a-f2a38ca192ae&algo_exp_id=b4cd5686-27d4-42f3-896a-f2a38ca192ae-5&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2264767257006%22%7D

Off to see the Wizard today..

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kick his ass !!!

..
I’m actually on the way up to Birmingham MCM Comic Con.. where Ian McDiarmid is signing stuff..

Got my Prem & Pro translites for him to sign.

Pro Translite has
Mark Hamil
Anthony Daniels
David Prowse

And a Captain of the Death Star. Will post a few pictures when it’s signed.

Prem has David Browse.

I was really hoping to get Jeremy Bulloch before he sadly passed ☹️

Sometimes it's great to be British. *sigh* And of course they schedule it during an off week for the Premier League. Imagine my chagrin when I woke up yesterday morning all ready for some guys playing football...and saw the women playing instead. At least Newcastle can't lose this week...

Have a great trip!

as ManU... (i'm a fan :/ )

Back from the Show..
really nice guy.

He (Ian McDiarmid) and Hayden Christensen we’re both there.

There was an option to get a photo with them both- but Obviously Hayden wasn’t in the first 3..

Only Marks signature on the Pro as it was $300 each item. David Prowse was £40, Anthony Daniels & Ian McDiarmid was £80 each time.

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I need Frank Oz, Harrison Ford… yeah as IF I’m gonna get that..

Shame the pin was realised just after Fischer passed.

And no Jeremy Bulloch, Peter Mayhew or Kenny Baker ☹️

i should miss something (being not usual with these kind of show) : than, you have to pay to get an autograph !!!???

this is how, in cusset in france about 7 years ago, there was david prowse, kenny baker and michael culver, respectively vader, r2 d2 and captain needa, autographs and photos were chargeable, it was not as expensive , you should know that these actors have travel costs, accommodation ect ..... in any case, there was a queue, many people wanted his signed photo.
on the other hand, on another comic show, Dan aykroyd and Ernie Hudson, signed the back of my proton pack for free, it's cool

ha ben m*rde alors !

Anyone would know what type of input does CN3 require for volume control ? Looks like it's essentially button type, ie + and -, but in this case you can't use a rotary encoder, unless adding a small circuit ?

And yes I know it does exist, I just want to build it myself

Rotary encoder, giving impulses on rotation.

Screenshot_20211119-083347 (resized).png

Thanks @sprudeldudel

Ah cool, so it's a direct rotary encoder input. Your diagram includes a jack for headphone based on pinout (I must admit I can't read what's written on top of the symbol, it states "facing door", but according to CN3 pinout you seem connected to 2 and 3, which are headphone output

Not sure though why you have a short between 4 and 5, this is headphone detect. It should be connected to the sense pin of the female 3.5 jack input (available only on PCB version of the connector), as is it would force an always on detection, no ?

Not sure either. I created this diagram based on the product I bough from User Metwurcht. I created a small PCB based on that, which basically places the whole circuit directly on the connector. From there I ran a cable to the "tournament button hole", where i placed the rotary encoder. Also I connected a BT-Transmitter by taotronics so I basically had Bluetooth on SW. Hoewever, this doesnt work very well due to the lag in the BT-signal. Hits on playfield and corresponding sounds are out of sync. Fun little experiment tho. I guess a higher qualty lag free BT-transmitter would make that a dofferent experience.

A (resized).jpg

B (resized).jpg

C (resized).jpg

OK, makes sense here, you indeed need the loopback on the sense input since your bluetooth transmitter is always connected (and there's an option in the Stern menu to playback sound both on the headphone and the main machine, which is probably what you have set)

in the case of using a headphone plug to connect a real headphone, you want the sense input to actually detect the jack is plugged. That way if using menu setting defined the other way around, it would turn off sounds from the backbox speaker when a headphone is plugged

Will you be able to make them white when off or still look pink??? If not pink when off then I’d be in

Let me ask y'all, I have the Comic Pro and really like it. Is it worth upgrading to the premium (non comic likely)?

If anybody wants to trade down and get cash out by trading a Premium for a Pro + cash, hit me up! I'm in Maryland and looking to upgrade. Thanks!

Me personally, I think it's worth the upgrade. I own a premium and play the pro at the local brewery. They are completely different machines for me. Obviously I play the premium more than the pro but the hyperspace loop and the ramps closer on the play field make it, dare I say, easier...

Do you happen to have an extra translite of the comic version? I've been looking for one of those lol

What do you mean when you say the ramps are closer? I’ve never played a premium but the ramps look like they are in the exact position on both.

Or are you taking about the hyperspace jump ramp?

That comment confused me too. The premium is a harder game becuse of the fork ramp. Pro and premium play different for sure. Once you go hyper loop you never go back. It is such a cool feature.

I'm in the minority I think. I have been on my distributor's list for a Pro for months for the December run that's now delayed until next year, so I also will have the price increase and Insider Connected when I finally get my NIB. I've read a lot of comments and reviews about how the Hyperloop is possibly a best toy in pinball and well worth it, and opinions about whether the Pro shoots better. I've played both on location and an LE and leaving money completely out of it I personally prefer the pro. I do think the Hyperloop is very cool but for me it just doesn't directly change gameplay as far as I can tell and much of the time I find it not aesthetically pleasing and am not a fan of so much wireform. What puts me off the most though is the popup fork ramp and the high percentage of rejected shots, that area just feels clunky on the examples I've played but the Pro just feels clean and smooth to me in comparison. As far as I know, there is no difference in rules or gameplay between them, just that the Hyperloop acts as a physical ball lock instead of virtual but maybe I'm missing something.

I can 100% see why so many people favor the Premium, it's extremely cool and fairly unique and without my experience with shot rejections I'd be closer to the edge of deciding between them. I hear that with careful tweaking and maintenance the rejections can be tamed, but for now I'm keeping my list spot for a Pro because even if all else was equal for me personally the cool toy isn't worth so much extra wireform crossing the playfield right in front of the flippers and a big cutout through the death star without being used more in the code than replacing a virtual ball lock. Tastes differ and maybe I'll feel differently someday but I've been thinking about this for months on the waitlist and I still think I prefer to own a Pro. The best part is we all have a choice.

Shots on the hyperloop on mine are very smooth and low rejection, even in backflip from the left. Absolutely love this pin for many years now!

I've never been able to measure the distance, but without the hyperloop rails in the back of the cabinet, it feels like the ramps are closer.

Does anyone have both to confirm my theory?

This helps, thank you! Part of my sadness would be losing the comic art as I think it makes the machine. Premium comics are too steep a price difference, but I could upgrade to the standard art without much pain. If gameplay isn't changing a terrible lot, I'll probably just stick with the pro (for a long time as I LOVE this pin lol).

Gameplay really doesn't change at all as when the ball is in the hyperloop your just watching it/them fly around. Very cool certainly...but these games play largely the same.

I've had a few collectors come over and play my premium and they said the Prem is way better. I only had very limited play on the Pro so I don't know if it's that different.

Whatever makes you happy!!!

How did you tune to be able to backflip from the left? I never have enough power to do that, the ball falls down

I don't have any reject though, if it does not register, in my case that's because the shot was not correctly aligned

Now on a completely different subject : sound wise, I fell that SW is lacking (I do have the modified ROM with the complete OST) in the bass department, especially for music. When comparing to Stranger Things for example, there was more bass presence, the sound and music felt a whole lot better.

So I connected an active subwoofer on the line out, and indeed there is almost no bass in music. I can turn off the sub without hearing a difference. There is additional bass with the sub however for sound effects. But not for music, and I feel it's a shame.

Is there a setting I'm missing somewhere? I played around with the equalizer, to no effect (plus the equalizer only affects the amplifier section , not line out as far as I understand)

No special tuning, it was good from factory.

Hello my fellow Star Wars brethren - I'm looking to up-trade my 2021 Pro for a Premium in the Chicago area - would also buy outright. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/125082

Question for people with shaker motors who have played at least several hundred games with shaker installed. Anything ever shake loose? Need to retighten screws? Solder joints become flaky or crack? Any negatives at all? Who sells the weakest shaker? Also, during what parts of the game does it shake?

What parts of the game does it shake on?

The pinball life shaker is less violent than the Stern one. No problems thus far, but it is always a good idea to retighten all the screws periodically.

I know it's been brought up before, but what good miniature figs from the board games (X-Wing, Armada, etc.) are good fits for a premium? And what do you use to mount them (and where can they be purchased)? All help appreciated!

Hi there, i can't stand the noise of the motor of my R2D2 topper anymore.
I will try to make improvements but I cannot open it.
I thought that drilling a hole will allow me to open it but in fact, no, any solutions ?
Sorry for french video

OMG! I cannot believe you just put a drill bit through a $2000 topper!

Am I in the pinball horror thread?