(Topic ID: 190343)

Stern STAR WARS club...May The Force Be With You

By Micky

6 years ago


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“Which one are you getting.”

  • Pro 185 votes
    27%
  • Premium 324 votes
    48%
  • LE 173 votes
    25%

(682 votes)

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There are 14,972 posts in this topic. You are on page 223 of 300.
#11101 2 years ago

@phbooms

there're so much ways to play this game...

my son like Leia, growing the multiplicator at the very begining (risky than) for simply shooting main modes (in combo when not lit), pay a lot of points

i'm comfortable with r2d2 going for the usual strategy : death star > death star final > in which i often get t-fighter multi > same with hyperspace multi > and if all going well i'm than often on X40 to go for the video mode

else Luke : i like playing it with always choosing +5 t-fighters

talking about the game, 1 thing we dont like (and may be it has been reported already) is when you have light saber ready, you can't pass it (and risk to lose the ball while something else/better was ready to play)... even if you can cradle the ball once started

#11102 2 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I rotate through them all consistently.

I do the same, and use distinctive initials (name) for any high scores I get. That way I can sort of keep track with how well I do with each "hero."

#11103 2 years ago
Quoted from pudealee:

I do the same, and use distinctive initials (name) for any high scores I get. That way I can sort of keep track with how well I do with each "hero."

That's a good idea. I wish the game kept track of that.

#11104 2 years ago

So I have had a problem with my SW COMIC ART PREMIUM ever since I received it in November. Game works great UNLESS I open the coin door. After closing it, half the playfield no longer lights up. Pushing in/pulling out the coin door voltage button does nothing. If you turn it off and turn it right back on, you get node board errors.

Sounds bad BUT if you unplug it, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then plug it in - works fine every time. And every night I'll turn it off and turn it on in the morning, no problem. It's only when I open the coin door that it gives me problems.

It's really not that big a deal because, like I said, if I unplug it and wait 10 minutes, it will start just fine. I'm just worried that when I go to sell it potential customers will be scared off (despite it always working otherwise). I have contacted Stern and they cannot figure it out, either. What they told me (bend the coin door bracket) has no bearing on it; only turning off/unplugging/waiting will allow it to start up again.

Any suggestions?

#11105 2 years ago
Quoted from ticktockman:

So I have had a problem with my SW COMIC ART PREMIUM ever since I received it in November. Game works great UNLESS I open the coin door. After closing it, half the playfield no longer lights up. Pushing in/pulling out the coin door voltage button does nothing. If you turn it off and turn it right back on, you get node board errors.
Sounds bad BUT if you unplug it, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then plug it in - works fine every time. And every night I'll turn it off and turn it on in the morning, no problem. It's only when I open the coin door that it gives me problems.
It's really not that big a deal because, like I said, if I unplug it and wait 10 minutes after needing to open the coin door (which is hardly ever), it will start just fine. I'm just worried that when I go to sell it potential customers will be scared off (despite it always working otherwise). I have contacted Stern and they cannot figure it out, either. What they told me (bend the coin door bracket) has no bearing on it; only turning off/unplugging/waiting will allow it to start up again.
Any suggestions?

-1
#11106 2 years ago

Ooops, duplicate post

#11107 2 years ago

Whatever it is will very likely get worse, so notify your distributor immediately and get it handled.

#11108 2 years ago

something new (?) my son just noticed :

when starting smashing the button for t-fighters hurry-up, the 2 ramps inserts are turning red
quickly shooting these 2 ramps in the 5 seconds (we did it) shut OFF the red inserts but does just nothing...
btw, not sure something should be there, but quite strange if not !?

allo Xaqery ?

#11109 2 years ago

Someone in EU have an LE? Only nib or with pp. please pm! Thanks

#11110 2 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

something new (?) my son just noticed :
when starting smashing the button for t-fighters hurry-up, the 2 ramps inserts are turning red
quickly shooting these 2 ramps in the 5 seconds (we did it) shut OFF the red inserts but does just nothing...
btw, not sure something should be there, but quite strange if not !?
allo Xaqery ?

I believe you score the points that are counting down prior to starting the hurry up.

#11111 2 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

1 thing we dont like (and may be it has been reported already) is when you have light saber ready, you can't pass it (and risk to lose the ball while something else/better was ready to play)... even if you can cradle the ball once started

you can disable this in the settings so the countdown will not freeze when you cradle the ball during light saber duel

#11112 2 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

I believe you score the points that are counting down prior to starting the hurry up.

will check this - tanx

#11113 2 years ago
Quoted from Crispy77:

you can disable this in the settings so the countdown will not freeze when you cradle the ball during light saber duel

yes, as others pins, but than we're not more on factory settings
and of course we will "lose" the light saber, which is needeed to get to WM... i mean : you really have to play/win it

anyway, not a big deal of course, SW remain very nice

#11114 2 years ago

My loop area on my Pro is p*ssing me off.

If Hoth or Death Star gets lit the metal post in the back of the loop area keeps popping up, blocking the ability to stop a ball where it should get stopped to start the mission (hope this makes sense). Why is this happening? How do I fix this?

#11115 2 years ago

I would love to see more modded out pics of everyone’s Star wars pins especially powder coated armor. Im fairly new to the club and still looking for cool ideas!

#11116 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

I would love to see more modded out pics of everyone’s Star wars pins especially powder coated armor. Im fairly new to the club and still looking for cool ideas!

I should have mine back from the powder coater by Tuesday.

#11117 2 years ago

Prismatic Powders Illusion Light Blue

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#11118 2 years ago

Hi SW guys, need your experience, have an issue with target R in the middle, a raise problem not a switch one…coil pulse 2-3 Time each time. Made my homework everything seems ok…need help, thks

#11119 2 years ago

Picked up my armor from my powder coat guy this afternoon. Hope to get it installed tonight.

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11
#11120 2 years ago

Finished installing custom armor, as well as the mirror blades I designed. I'm really happy with how all of this turned out. I love how its hard to tell where the cabinet art stars stop and the sparkle of the powdercoat starts.

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#11121 2 years ago

Looks stellar!!!

#11123 2 years ago

Have had my SW Pro for a couple or 3 months now, not much into mods, but after putting the Stern Art blades on my IMDN, I'd like to do the same with SW, as well as DI and replace the crappy torn ones that came with Spiderman. What are you guys using? I don't seem to find any interesting ones for SW. I want ones with the "heft" and apparent durability of the Stern ones for IMDN. I also don't want the ones that came on the SM, though I don't know who made them, they appear to be wafer thin. Pictures of the ones on SM.

IMG_20210630_200102 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200102 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200108 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200108 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200115 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200115 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200119 (resized).jpgIMG_20210630_200119 (resized).jpg
#11124 2 years ago

Looking to upgrade my SW pro speakers to the kenwoods like the LE, not sure model numbers, size or ohms. Has anyone else upgraded if so hows the sound?

#11125 2 years ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

Have had my SW Pro for a couple or 3 months now, not much into mods, but after putting the Stern Art blades on my IMDN, I'd like to do the same with SW, as well as DI and replace the crappy torn ones that came with Spiderman. What are you guys using? I don't seem to find any interesting ones for SW. I want ones with the "heft" and apparent durability of the Stern ones for IMDN. I also don't want the ones that came on the SM, though I don't know who made them, they appear to be wafer thin. Pictures of the ones on SM.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I've done mirror blades on my last several games as I've come to prefer them over most art blades. It adds depth and some extra light to the game. I'm going to make a few more sets of the custom ones I did for SW. See photos above.

#11126 2 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I've done mirror blades on my last several games as I've come to prefer them over most art blades. It adds depth and some extra light to the game. I'm going to make a few more sets of the custom ones I did for SW. See photos above.

SW looks great with mirror blades.

#11127 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Looking to upgrade my SW pro speakers to the kenwoods like the LE, not sure model numbers, size or ohms. Has anyone else upgraded if so hows the sound?

Kenwood KFC-1366S

Can be had on eBay for around $40

#11128 2 years ago

Hows the sound difference? Worth the upgrade?

#11129 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Hows the sound difference? Worth the upgrade?

The Kenwood's are a low end speaker. BUT....they are still far, far better than the crappy 4" single paper cone on the Pro/Premium. I also went with the Speakerlightkits with the 5.25" brackets.

I did that at first, but I then went much further. I bought much better 5.25" speakers.
Long story short, I run an external class D amp to power those speakers and an external powered subwoofer.

#11130 2 years ago

Would love to hear how you used a amp for the backbox speaker’s any detaled instructions parts ect.

#11131 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Would love to hear how you used a amp for the backbox speaker’s any detaled instructions parts ect.

I talked about it in this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/this-is-the-way-stern-mandalorian-pinball/page/117#post-6354739

But Star Wars is a little different as the CPU board doesn't have line level outputs for the subwoofer. So, for Star Wars you'll want to use a speaker level to line level converter (these are like $10 on Amazon). Connect your speaker wires to that in order to get line level outputs. You would then not need the pinsound adapter.

#11132 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

SW looks great with mirror blades.

Yeah I used mirror blades as well. Looks great

#11133 2 years ago
Quoted from dinot:

The Kenwood's are a low end speaker. BUT....they are still far, far better than the crappy 4" single paper cone on the Pro/Premium. I also went with the Speakerlightkits with the 5.25" brackets.
I did that at first, but I then went much further. I bought much better 5.25" speakers.
Long story short, I run an external class D amp to power those speakers and an external powered subwoofer.

Do those Kenwoods fit as is or do you need brackets?

#11134 2 years ago
Quoted from Jerickso77:

Do those Kenwoods fit as is or do you need brackets?

Any 5.25" speaker will need a bracket. Speakerlightkits sells the brackets (they are out of stock) and they are extra cheap if you combine them with their light kits. Pinball Life also sells the brackets $35/each plus shipping.

#11135 2 years ago

dinot or anybody else who understands audio, if you just want to upgrade your back box speakers with a class D amp how do you wire it correctly to the spike 2 board and then to the new speakers?

#11136 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

dinot or anybody else who understands audio, if you just want to upgrade your back box speakers with a class D amp how do you wire it correctly to the spike 2 board and then to the new speakers?

I wouldn't only do the backbox. You should also get an external powered sub. Lots of people like the Polk PSW10. I don't care much for that sub. It is underpowered and clips too often. For about the same money, this is much better:
https://www.adorama.com/kp1016570.html?sdtid=15075295&emailprice=t&sterm=yeiVehVD5xyLTf20vo1E0wKDUkB3h6TJR1GpTc0&utm_source=rflaid62905

For the backbox, the best way is to create a connector and plug it into the CN5. But, I cannot crimp .100. Too small for me. For Star Wars, I just used a speaker-level to line level converter. I also have a pinnovator subwoofer kit. https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-spike-spike2-stern-kit. That gives you a subwoofer out. You run that cable to your subwoofer under your pin.

I disconnected the backbox speakers and feed the converter with the speaker wire. You then have a line level output. You the hook that up to a small class D-amp. I like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJZGT6H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00

You'll need the 5.25" plates. I like to get the kit with the plates and lights from speakerlightkits:
http://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

Everything I talked about is specific to Star Wars. Later pins had the subwoofer output on the CN5 connector. You can bypass the pinnovators kit and the speaker to line level out adapter and just get this:
https://www.pinsound.org/shop/en/64-subwoofer-line-out-stern-spike.html

The pinsound connector is so much easier and cleaner.

And last but not least, get a decent pair of 5.25" speakers. I like Polk, JL Audio, or Focal (but Focal is expensive). Pay attention to the speaker height. 2.5" is about as deep as you can go. Lots of people like the Kenwood KFC-1366s as that is the same speaker used in LEs. I would only ever use those if using the onboard amp. They are efficient and don't need a lot of power. Otherwise, they are not very good.

Once you do all or this, you'll need to go into the Volume menu and play with the settings to get what you like. I go with the 10 band EQ so that I can adjust as needed. For example TMNT is much brighter than I expected, so I notched the 2 highest frequencies down a bit.

#11137 2 years ago

Thanks for all info. I will be rolling my 15” klipsch external powered sub.

#11138 2 years ago

I just went with the flipper fidelity set with the large woofer and i am extremely happy with the result.

#11139 2 years ago

I have a Flipper Fidelity kit from a WPC95, can I use this in my SW pro?

#11140 2 years ago

I believe it has to be spike 2, best to call or email flipper fidelity.

#11141 2 years ago

I'm getting STDM shots nearly all the time when sending fast balls to the left outer Orbit, is that normal ? If not, what exactly should I adjust ? pictures most welcome as I'm a complete noob
Thanks !

#11142 2 years ago

I have a Star Wars premium that I’ve had for two months now. The right outlane diverter twitches but never stays engaged. I power cycled it a couple times, same result.

Under the diagnostic test (with the 48v switch bypassed) I can see it twitch when I do the test. I’ve tried holding it in place to see if the coil holds, no go. I’ve put a volt meter on it and can see it come and then almost immediately it’s off. It is the same behavior measuring with the coil attached or not.

It seems like whatever is driving the coil is damaged. It just happened, and I’m planning to contact the folks I bought from (cointaker), but I had a couple questions:

A) has anyone needed to service their pin within first month or two, and what was that like?

B) has anyone had a similar problem? And is there anything on my end I can do to further isolate this—I’m quite comfortable with electronics and have tools.

Really bummed about this. Not sure what to expect service-wise. Thanks

#11143 2 years ago
Quoted from frood1168:

I have a Star Wars premium that I’ve had for two months now. The right outlane diverter twitches but never stays engaged. I power cycled it a couple times, same result.
Under the diagnostic test (with the 48v switch bypassed) I can see it twitch when I do the test. I’ve tried holding it in place to see if the coil holds, no go. I’ve put a volt meter on it and can see it come and then almost immediately it’s off. It is the same behavior measuring with the coil attached or not.
It seems like whatever is driving the coil is damaged. It just happened, and I’m planning to contact the folks I bought from (cointaker), but I had a couple questions:
A) has anyone needed to service their pin within first month or two, and what was that like?
B) has anyone had a similar problem? And is there anything on my end I can do to further isolate this—I’m quite comfortable with electronics and have tools.
Really bummed about this. Not sure what to expect service-wise. Thanks

Mine did the same thing but I can't remember what exactly i did to fix it. I think it was simply an adjustment to the tab that the magnet pulls in order to hold the gate, being too far away.

#11144 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammer3246:

Mine did the same thing but I can't remember what exactly i did to fix it. I think it was simply an adjustment to the tab that the magnet pulls in order to hold the gate, being too far away.

Tab, eh? Okay. I get it now, and it makes sense. You would not want to be driving the coil to hold the gate open, there must be a mechanism to hold it, like a pushbutton switch that push on, then push off... Maybe if someone else knows more and could offer any suggestions? I'll check it out now that I have that to go on. Thanks...

--Dan M.

#11145 2 years ago

Looking for the r2d2 topper, who can help me

#11146 2 years ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Looking for the r2d2 topper, who can help me

Be ready to take out a second mortgage… if and when you find one.. ☹️

Last one I saw was on eBay and around 2500$.

#11147 2 years ago

Yeah, the madness around topper pricing has really made me not feel as stupid for buying a 750 dollar topper a year before I bought the game. Initially I felt a bit ridiculous...

#11148 2 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Yeah, the madness around topper pricing has really made me not feel as stupid for buying a 750 dollar topper a year before I bought the game. Initially I felt a bit ridiculous...

Lol i did the same.

#11149 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Be ready to take out a second mortgage… if and when you find one.. ☹️
Last one I saw was on eBay and around 2500$.

Pfff, thats way to much indeed but I really want one the add on ebay is not right

#11150 2 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Yeah, the madness around topper pricing has really made me not feel as stupid for buying a 750 dollar topper a year before I bought the game. Initially I felt a bit ridiculous...

Crazy indeed, wanna sell it to me for 1k

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