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(Topic ID: 190343)

Stern STAR WARS club...May The Force Be With You


By Micky

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,523 posts
  • 649 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by setzkor
  • Topic is favorited by 267 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which one are you getting.”

  • Pro 146 votes
    28%
  • Premium 216 votes
    42%
  • LE 155 votes
    30%

(517 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 9523 posts in this topic. You are on page 191 of 191.
#9502 6 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

The baffle kit revisions have been made and fitment has been confirmed from other machine models. The baffles are now made with both mounting holes styles so the kit is good for any machine model.

Cool, let me know when you plan to sell the files so I can print them myself.

#9503 6 days ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

What is this baffle kit you speak of? I have a pro model. Would it work on mine ?

Yes it will work with your Pro.

#9504 6 days ago

Leaving the club but still a fan. Peace out.

#9505 5 days ago
Quoted from Nevus:

Leaving the club but still a fan. Peace out.

I did that once. But then I came back, LOL. Biggest selling regret I have had, and I've had a few. It's always tough to let go of a game you still enjoy (at least it is for me), but thankfully in this hobby they can always be bought back if there is too much regret. In my case I even got back the exact same machine. Hope you are trading to something else fun!

#9506 5 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Yes it will work with your Pro.

Does this baffle kit work with the LE?

#9507 5 days ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

Does this baffle kit work with the LE?

As far as I have been told yes they do. The kit now has multiple holes in it to work with the 2 different led boards that have been used. If you can lift your playfield and snap a pic of one of the world led boards that would still be great. I have a pro and my holes are 1 1/16" apart. Another pinsider confirmed his led boards were 3 1/2" apart.

Wonder why the boards would be different on some models, I thought that part of the games would all be the same.

#9508 5 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

As far as I have been told yes they do. The kit now has multiple holes in it to work with the 2 different led boards that have been used. If you can lift your playfield and snap a pic of one of the world led boards that would still be great. I have a pro and my holes are 1 1/16" apart. Another pinsider confirmed his led boards were 3 1/2" apart.
Wonder why the boards would be different on some models, I thought that part of the games would all be the same.

Hi, did my order make it through? It said a PayPal invoice comes after. Thanks!

#9509 5 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Hi, did my order make it through? It said a PayPal invoice comes after. Thanks!

Yes it did.

#9510 5 days ago

Who is using that air ball shield? does it work well?

#9511 5 days ago

Awesome thank you.

#9512 4 days ago

This is written partly with the help of google translate. English is a second language.
I've been lying on my back under this game countless times screwing on the leg screws. all to find the right slope. I have read a lot in this thread to find clues to how to best solve, among other things, the problem with the inner loop sending the balls straight down the middle. This week I'm lying there again and now I was aiming to get 6.5 roughly in the middle of the playfield. I think I've finally found the right slope. Or I just got a little better at playing all of a sudden. One thing I have a hard time understanding. Why do I get different gradients depending on where I measure? high up and far down on the playing field can differ several tenths. And where should I get 6.5?

#9513 4 days ago
Quoted from r0ddan:

This is written partly with the help of google translate. English is a second language.
I've been lying on my back under this game countless times screwing on the leg screws. all to find the right slope. I have read a lot in this thread to find clues to how to best solve, among other things, the problem with the inner loop sending the balls straight down the middle. This week I'm lying there again and now I was aiming to get 6.5 roughly in the middle of the playfield. I think I've finally found the right slope. Or I just got a little better at playing all of a sudden. One thing I have a hard time understanding. Why do I get different gradients depending on where I measure? high up and far down on the playing field can differ several tenths. And where should I get 6.5?

You will always get slightly different readings in different places around the playfield. I try to average it out, but for slope go mostly by the middle of the playfield. For level (left and right) I do the same, but mostly concentrate on the area closest to the flippers. While there will be some difference, it should be very minor and not make a huge change in play. Slight warp in the wood, slightly uneven clearcoat, and slightly raised inserts can all contribute to the difference you are seeing, but unless it's a huge difference, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

After leveling and getting the slope right, you still might have to adjust the lane guides on the loop and the orbits, and also the Tatooine scoop. Make sure the guides are tightened down well too...mine were a bit loose from the factory making the shots inconsistent. Also make sure none of the targets are leaning far enough to interfere with the ball travel, and check the roll-under switch gate at the Death Star entrance and the left spinner to make sure they are not affecting the ball. My machine needed a TON of tweaking, most of any game I have had other than Avengers. It's worth it though...once it's dialed in it is a super fun machine and it has needed very little additional tweaking once it was done. Good luck!

#9514 4 days ago

my game had a lot of silly drains from the horse shoe, i gave in, levelled the playfield from side to side, now it's perfect. stay on target, you will find it eventually!

#9515 4 days ago

From one game to another, the horse shoe is bend differently, not perfect sometimes and that make the stdm shot. You can try to bend it or in my case i install a small diverter but that way the ball go from the left horse shoe entrance to the left flipper. Because the speed of the ball, the slope and balance will not change anything.

#9516 4 days ago

Adding a 2 second ball save from the scoop isn’t a bad idea either...

#9517 2 days ago

I finally got around to getting a digital level and put it on our Star Wars. The game was honestly frustrating me. The way it was setup when I got it the playfield bubble was right near the top line. This is where it is when I used the digital level to get the game to 6.55-6.6 or so. Proves to me the bubble isn't always accurate.

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#9518 2 days ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

After leveling and getting the slope right, you still might have to adjust the lane guides on the loop and the orbits, and also the Tatooine scoop. Make sure the guides are tightened down well too...mine were a bit loose from the factory making the shots inconsistent. Also make sure none of the targets are leaning far enough to interfere with the ball travel, and check the roll-under switch gate at the Death Star entrance and the left spinner to make sure they are not affecting the ball. My machine needed a TON of tweaking, most of any game I have had other than Avengers. It's worth it though...once it's dialed in it is a super fun machine and it has needed very little additional tweaking once it was done. Good luck!

Thank you!
I'm not a collector of pinball machines. This is my fourth so far. I have done some work on my previous machines but the teardown needed to get the guides out of the machine scares me. SW is by far the most expensive inventory we have in our home. And what should I do when i get them out? To me it seems as if the "problem" is not at the exit. And here my english vocabulary might not be enough but I would think that the curve before the exit is too deep so to speak... What if I bend them and get it wrong. What if they don't fit after I have bent them. What if it is the holes that are not drilled in the right place... The latter is actually my theory why the sdtm thing is happening.
But thanks a lot for a really good response. Please let me know if you ever do a tutorial with pictures

#9519 2 days ago
Quoted from r0ddan:

Thank you!
I'm not a collector of pinball machines. This is my fourth so far. I have done some work on my previous machines but the teardown needed to get the guides out of the machine scares me. SW is by far the most expensive inventory we have in our home. And what should I do when i get them out? To me it seems as if the "problem" is not at the exit. And here my english vocabulary might not be enough but I would think that the curve before the exit is too deep so to speak... What if I bend them and get it wrong. What if they don't fit after I have bent them. What if it is the holes that are not drilled in the right place... The latter is actually my theory why the sdtm thing is happening.
But thanks a lot for a really good response. Please let me know if you ever do a tutorial with pictures

No problem. Just remember that very small changes make a big difference. If you are bending anything so far you can't get it back in place, it's WAY too much. You likely do not need to remove the guide. Just loosen the mounting points, then push on the rails a little bit in the direction you want to change as you tighten them back up. In one case I found that from the factory my rail was tightened down with some tension that deformed them a bit. Once I loosened the nuts, the rail "sprung back" into shape, then all I had to do was tighten them back down. A little bit will do...a 1 mm in either direction is probably all you need! Good luck!

#9520 2 days ago
Quoted from Karl_Hungus:

Thanks! I found this and it was already all the way down. I even trimmed the rubber to let it come down further, but I still trap the ball. Any other thoughts?

I had the same problem. The stopper somehow attaches to a spring. Mine eventually shot out of the hole. All you need to do is get something to push it down hard (like a small piece of wood) back down below the rails. It is not very sophisticated but it works. It is a little bit of a pain to find something like a small piece of wood that will allow you to push it down without hitting the rails, but it will stay put once you do.

#9521 1 day ago
Quoted from goldmaes:

I had the same problem. The stopper somehow attaches to a spring. Mine eventually shot out of the hole. All you need to do is get something to push it down hard (like a small piece of wood) back down below the rails. It is not very sophisticated but it works. It is a little bit of a pain to find something like a small piece of wood that will allow you to push it down without hitting the rails, but it will stay put once you do.

Thanks for the reply. You were exactly right. Stern sent me a new plunger assembly and replaced the stopper as well. When I got the old assembly out, I fixed it so now I have a spare.

#9522 1 day ago
Quoted from HPR:

From one game to another, the horse shoe is bend differently, not perfect sometimes and that make the stdm shot. You can try to bend it or in my case i install a small diverter but that way the ball go from the left horse shoe entrance to the left flipper. Because the speed of the ball, the slope and balance will not change anything.

Can you show a pic of the diverter?

#9523 13 hours ago

In the middle of a game on my premium, see this falling down the playfield. Any ideas where it goes? Couldn't figure it out in my initial sweep. About half inch black Phillips...

NVM... Found it, backside of the tie fighter

PXL_20201020_011919400 (resized).jpg

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There are 9523 posts in this topic. You are on page 191 of 191.

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