The comic art looks absolutely incredible!

Agreed buddy

Why did this game get so many bad reviews when it first came out? I’m joining the club in a couple days. I’m trading my stranger things pro for a SW Pro on Friday. Was it the early code or something. Table layout ? Please someone fill me in.

For the same reason STh got a bad rap: People get in their heads how a game should look and play, and when it doesn't live up to their imagination, they immediately dismiss it and don't even give it a chance in a home environment. I have both games and both are amazing for different reasons. STh is my favorite game since I got it in February, and SW will never leave because it's my childhood in a pinball machine.

Code was poor for about 6 months after release and it's SUPER PICKY about pitch and balance. Like half a turn on a leg leveler can be difference between awesome and awful.

The Pro was dull IMO, but once it's dialed in, the Prem/LE has great dramatic tension trying to get balls loaded in the loop in a very short window. Loved it.

The premium is an outlane drain monster. The ball can head straight to the outlanes from pretty much anywhere on the playfield and can easily be tossed in there from the slings or the ball launch.

Close up the outlanes, adjust the sling power and make sure the pitch and balance are perfect and that's not much of an issue. I didn't have too much problem with outlane gobbling once I got it dialed in. It's not like you could RELAX, but the balls were not cheap losses that a nudge wouldn't save.

I closed up the outlanes too and find it pretty fair. I did have to bend the rail on the mystery scoop so the ball would feed the left flipper instead of the center drain.

I just joined the club on Friday - I loved the movies (except the last 3...), and yet couldn't get into this game up to now. For me it definitely was the code - there is just something about Dwight's rulesets that I haven't cared for. I am finding I'm liking it more and more with more time in a home environment to grasp all the details and fun shots though. It definitely has nailed the theme integration, and even stuck with the original trilogy - great move.

I'm still not crazy about the three-bank multiplier targets/multiplier system in general and the usage of the mini-screen though. And I don't want to handicap myself by disabling mode stacking, but having two modes stacked plus combo shots lit often results in nearly every shot being lit, muddying the actually very interesting/fun modes. "Who cares, shoot everything - its all lit" is an exaggeration, but not THAT far away from reality and was initially definitely a turnoff for me.

Once you get in tune with goosing the multiplier bank and calling your shots by moving the multiplier, the game really opens up!

So on my pro model, what should the pitch be set to, and how do I check my angles? Do I set a level across the play field or where?

This game is on the picky side. 6.5 for the pitch and side to side level needs to be perfect. Get a digital level and place it directly on the playfield in the middle center at the bottom and the top of the playfield. It takes a little effort to get it dialed in but it is worth it.

I think its the code that gives people a bad impression. The first times I played it at shows and friends house, it was just meh.

Once one of my friends explained the objectives and the meaning of the inserts in the center of the PF, it really came alive for me. It is my personal favorite pin in my entire collection and has been for over a year. It has that "just one more game" feeling because there is always something you KNOW you could have done better. That damn movable multiplier is a cool risk-reward feature.

Coupled with the theme integration - it's hard to beat for a SW fan. Escape from Boba Fett puts you right on the platform with the lightning. Escape from Darth Vader with the color changing GI - available on both the Pro and Prem. The sounds and callouts are great.

Overall a great package that needs some "mansplaining" to get initially. Once you "get it" its one of the best IMO.

People also have had luck with dropping the eject power to 30. I did this, but then once my pitch was correct, I had to power it back up.

Also don't forget there is an saucer eject ball save setting that can cover you for the occasional SDTM. Makes life much less frustrating since you can likely never get it 100%.

Is there already a post that contains all of the recommended game adjustments? Making that a key post would be really helpful.

I have an inclinometer for the pitch. But all I have is a bubble type level.

On most games that is enough. SW is picky. Buy one of these. I keep mine in my pinball kit. It is cheap and works great (two of my favorite things).

https://www.amazon.com/eOUTIL-Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic/dp/B083J8XBNN/ref=sr_1_16

Had one of those too but can’t find it. I’ll buy it again if I have to, it’s a great tool to have on hand.

I prefer the legit angle cubes as opposed to the knock-offs. I use it in my wood shop all the time for my blade angles and works like butter on my pins.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL0BIC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_AoCuFbEEQ15N0

Did not know this was the original, and it’s only like $12 more. Will go with this if I can’t find mine. Thanks for sharing!

I did more than just close the outlanes. I put larger than stock posts in the left and right side. The slings are not separately adjustable for power. This pin was built with revenue in mind, so long ball times were not part of the idea.

What sling power did you have luck with?

Can someone post a pic of the lermod millennium falcon toy that glows blue? I’m thinking of springing for one but want to see what it looks like up close. And how is it interactive with the game?

Oh and I just joined the club today! Traded my stranger things for the pro model.

Unfortunately I don't remember but that's a general place to adjust for these kinds of issues (I don't have the pin anymore or I'd check).

Here's a couple of pics. I'll have to double check when it lights up . It's definitely a must have mod for the pro!

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Here's what the one I ordered from lermods looks like. I think there's a few different versions of the Falcon mod floating around. Some of the Falcons look nicer than others. And mine is lit up all the time when the game is on, FYI. Looks good to me. Very happy with the mod. Was slightly awkward to install, but not too bad.

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We ended production of our original falcon because the model we were using became very hard to find. It used LEDs and was interactive with the ramp flasher. Mezel stopped making their version and asked us to take it over for them, which we’ve done. It is lit with EL wire and has a warm blue glow, but is not interactive. Hope that helps.

That’s fine. The one that I got with my pro doesn’t look all that great. As far as the lighting goes. It appears to be an led strip and it doesn’t glow at all. EL wire looks much better

Same. The mold is nice but the led strip sucks compared to el wire.

So I just got my pro model yesterday. Was trying to get everything set up and I’m just going through the play field cleaning what I can. Installed a trough light kit. No problem. Had to use a GI bulb socket from under the left sling. No problem. Took that all apart and back together again no issues. Noticed that the sling rubber looked pretty worn and dirty. So gonna replace that. But when I turned my machine on to play, the left sling started going crazy. Sounded like a machine gun going off! So upon further investigating, it appears as if the lower leaf switch is almost practically closed all the way. I had to move the sling rubber around a bit so that the leaf switch was not making contact. Does this mean I need a new leaf switch or just new rubber or what? I attached a pic so u guys can see how close it is in comparison with the upper leaf switch. It’s super close!

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No, just bend the leaf switch back a little at the base.

If you can, use a leaf switch adjustment tool (Marco has them.) If you try to do it with needle nose pliers, you will twist it.

And always make the bends as close to the base as possible.

It’s weird, when we switched to the el wire, we got emails From customers telling us they wanted the led strip version. Can’t win. Wish I could offer both versions and let people choose, but it’s not an option right now so el wire version it is. Personally, I like the led strip version because it’s brighter, interactive and easier to make. If you’ve ever worked with el wire, it’s like working with human hair, very tough to see and strip the wires.

I’m not sure which part of the switch I’m supposed to bend, guys. I’m still learning a lot about pinball repairs and such. Could you guys be a little more descriptive ?

Thanks guys. I watched some videos and it seems pretty straightforward. Gonna order that adjustment tool as suggested. So now I have another issue! lol. It seems at random times that the ball ejector will load 2 balls at a time! I’m so confused at this. Can anyone help out with this one?

I have this issue during TIE Fighter Multiball. Since it is multiball and it counts the balls correctly I have let it go. It could be the lane protector. On my Ghostbusters, I installed Cliffy's and started having the same problem. The ball was firing out, hitting the metal protector and flying back enough to not register in the lane. Then the machine would eject another ball and I would end up with two in the lane. I lowered the eject power and it fixed it right away.

I have a lane protector on mine too. The plastic overlay one, and I only noticed this happen once I installed it. I’ll do the same and lower the eject power.

The plastic overlay one is too thick and makes it harder for the ball to depress the shooter lane switch wire correctly (i.e. far enough, fast enough) so the game will think it needs to put a ball in the shooter lane when one is already there. Cliffies are better for the shooter lane. You can try bending up the shooter lane wire a bit more to account for the plastic overlay thickness...

Can someone please tell me how I can adjust the auto plunge power? I can’t find it in the adjustment menu.
I keep getting ball save auto plunged to the left outlane drain. I try to beat autoplunge but not always successful.

Thanks in advance!!

Adjust the aim of your shooter lane guide where the ball exits onto the playfield

Thanks. I did, but still occasionally get the drain. There is only a couple of millimeters of left to right adjustment at the top of the shorter lane guide. If I push it all the way out towards the outside then the ball hits the Jedi standup. I have it all the way on towards the center and it is better. How do you set yours?

Plus el wire degrades pretty fast. I agree LEDs are better.

Got a pro on Thursday so I’m part of this club now ! Not even Set up and played for 24h and I’m off doing things.

I noticed playing in the dark room that the location inserts (hoth, death star, etc) when lit would also lightly light the adjacent I, II and III inserts and this would happen vise versa.

So in goes my solution. Did a little clicking in solidworks and this popped out. Unscrew the board, sandwich in the light baffle and presto! No more indirect lighting of the inserts.

Same unit works on all 4 locations with no machine alterations.

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So I’m not sure how to word this correctly, but on my machine , I almost always exclusively use the action button to start a game or to launch the ball. When I start a game with the action button, it somehow advances your choices shown on the LCD screen by going down one spot. It’s super annoying and I don’t
Think it’s supposed to happen like that ?anyone here have any solution to that or is that normal ? I got my game used so I’m in the “discovery” phase so to speak.

Can you please share the files on thingiverse or somewhere? For my LE I'd love to get this printed on this side of the world

You are correct. That isn't normal. Try reloading the code on the SD card. If that doesn't work you might need to contact Stern. My next thought would be a bad node board. You could try reseating all the connections but that fix seems unlikely. Do you know the machine's history? There might be a reason why the previous owner parted with it. Node boards are expensive.

When you say reload the code, do you mean just do a normal software update as I would do if there was an update ? I’m not sure how to go about reloading code