People should keep in mind that this is an OT game too. The prequel/sequel ships have no place on this playfield.

Cheers

I think the only Armada ship regularly used is the Star Destroyer. Most of the other ships are from the X-Wing game expansions. Perfect size and beautifully detailed.

I like the Hot Wheels ships as well, but I like the "Squadrons" of X-Wings and Ties from Armada. They are small, but I'd like to find a cool place to put a few. The X-Wings would be cool if I could get them near the Death Star.

Comic Premium? Congrats! Where did you buy yours if you don’t mind me asking? I don’t think my distributor can get this one anymore.

I bought it from Trent at Tilt Amusements in OH. I got the last one though. Trent is great to work with if you get the chance though.

I think the dealer I buy from still has a Comic Premium. Classic Game Rooms in Georgia. I have my games shipped from there to me in Redondo Beach, CA because he actually seems to care about pinball. Half the time I can’t get my local guys on the phone so I said screw it, I’ll go with Jason from Classic Game Rooms from now on.

Have they stopped making the Comic Premium? I've been dragging my feet assuming I still had a while to pick one up.

I was told "For this year", but I also know the license is up in two days, so it sounds like renewing the license would have to happen before more are made. That's only what I heard and not from Stern.

I feel that they are done with Star Wars. The Comic release was the swan song. Ask yourself “why renew the the rights?”. Most everybody that wanted one has one by now. If it holds out to be true the Comic Premium is going to be the rarest of the releases at 200 units (rumored).

All I know for sure is I got one and I super geeked out!

Yeah, I'm thinking the Comic Editions will be the lowest production #s of both the Pros and Premiums. As an owner, I'm hoping that rarity will boost the resale value a bit when the day comes (a long time from now!) that I go to sell.

In the club since two weeks. Got a pro with pf-protector since day one. Super nice condition. Not brand new but sure looks like it. Very happy with it but as always with a new pin there is some struggle with making it play perfect. A fast ball in the horseshoe loop left to right goes... tada... sdtm =)
There are 182 pages to scroll thru in this thread and I'm doing my best. I have read quite a few posts about the issue and how sensitive the game is to levelling. And I get it. If the game is tilted to the left, then the return from the inner loop will miss the right flipper and go sdtm. But if you miss the perfect pitch by 0.1 °, really? No way... That's a design issue and not a levelling issue in my book. So any thoughts about that besides levelling are welcome.

I also just ordered a shaker. Stern has just recently put up a European site for spare parts and such so that we don't have to pay a ridiculous amount of money on shipping, customs and then vat on top of everything. Ordering from the US often ends up with paying close to 200 % of the original price. So that's a good thing. Thank you Stern.
Any thoughts about installing a shaker? I could see that there is a capacitor thingy included that kind of makes me nervous. Should I be? or is it straight forward, plug in and be happy?

And Yoda, please... I know, I have to learn control. Stop rubbing it in...

The Stern shakers do not have the capacitor, and the Pinball Life motors have also removed it so you should have no issues other than worrying you machine is going to shake apart! I put one in last night and it feels super powerful!

Thanks boys, appreciate the tips!

There is a capacitor inbetween two connectors. I guess I am supposed to install it somewhere when I install the shaker. That’s the capacitor I am talking about.

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I have just come to accept that there is no way I'm going to be able to level these games as perfectly as I would like (or as it seems may be required), especially considering in my case, they're in a garage with a slightly sloped floor, and I've had a hell of a time working with the damn levelers in the first place. Instead, they just require quite a good bit of physicality when playing to keep the ball alive when things get hectic...Hell, even when things aren't hectic! Nonstop nudging, slap saves, and slide saves to keep balls going in this game

Besides leveling, the lane guides will most likely need to be tweaked some. It might take some work, but you should be able to eliminate 90% of the SDTM issues. Mine honestly took a few hours of trial and error, but it was well worth it. SDTM from a good shot are a rarity now.

Shaker motor is about as plug-and-play straight forward as it gets. No worries.

I have never adjusted the lane guides on any of my other machines. Can you clarify where and how did you bend them? So my SW Pro shoots SDTM when I hit the left inner loop hard from the right flipper. Do you bend/adjust the top of the loop or angle in the exit? Also, where does the ball come after you hit that left inner loop on your machine? Left or right fliipper?

Thanks for your help. Love the game and this group.

Some of it will honestly be trial and error. The first thing to check is make sure the lane guides are actually tight. Stern has had a nasty habit lately of not tightening posts and guides down well from the factory. If your guide is slightly loose and has some give, that could be enough to mess up the ball flow. If that's all good, before actually bending, loosen the mounting screws/nuts and see if there is any play in them. When re-tightening, put some pressure on the guide in the direction you want it to go to see if you can get it to snug up a hair in that direction. Sometimes that's enough. If you have to bend the end of your lane guide, do it carefully to not scratch it up or crack the mounts. And remember a very small amount can make a big difference.

Left inner loop (Death Star) should feed clean to the right flipper. Right inner loop (Hoth) should feed clean to the left flipper. If memory serves, there was much discussion about that early on, and that info came from Steve Ritchie himself (at least I think it did....fuzzy memory and too lazy to dig it up now). If you look at the geometry, you can see that is how it was designed to work.

Here... this is from Stern Advisory.

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I removed my stern shaker with capacitor from my comic pro
and replaced with pinball life model which was a big improvement
to me. I had used pinball life model in my Gotg pro and it was good.
Tried stern model for my sw and it never felt right even with me
adjusting arms and making several adjustments. So I switched
back to pinball life version. Just my 2 cents.

I just recently unplugged my shaker. It was becoming annoying. It seems over used in this game. It's always going. Plus a game with a shaker on hardwood floors just amplifies the effect.

Just one man's opinion.

Jason is a good guy. I have bought many games from him.

This can be hard to see in a picture, and since english is a second language it can be hard to explain... my guess is that the black line on the playfield is where the metal guide is supposed to be. If the point of attachement (I lack the correct vocabulary) at the right exit is correct but the two points before is slightly wrong as shown in the picture. One have to look closely. The ball takes a wider course inside the loop and the direction of the ball when exiting is pointed more to the left than intended...
This could be that the holes where the screw goes is slightly wrong. We are talking millimeters (fractions of an inch). I can’t see how bending would do the trick...
Is it possible to understand what I mean? I don’t know if the translation ”direction of the tangent” is correct. But that is what’s wrong as I see it.

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I understand what you are saying. You explained it very well....much better than I could do in any other language!

It is definitely possible that the overall shape is distorted a bit. In this case I would loosen the entire guide, make sure none of the attachment points are stressed, twisted, bent, or pulling it in the wrong direction, then tighten it back down. Also make sure the welds on the attachment points are good. I had a bad one which actually broke when tightening mine (not overtightened...it was partially broken already) and I had to replace the entire guide. With the bad weld, I do not think my original one ever could have been adjusted right. My new one was perfect with very little adjustment. So that is something to watch for too.

Thanks for the info. I have had a chance to check it out. I have reset all cables and for the life of me can not find the door switch. When I power the game all the status lights on the node boards are flashing yellow.

I don't recall but isn't there a setting for how often is enguages ?

This one. Pushing it in and pulling it out both activate the high voltage. In the resting position all of that stuff is turned off.

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Dont have one in my pro.

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I have been though the settings and set it to the lowest setting. Still didn't care for it. Video mode asteroid collisions and the death star firing during the match screen was enough to get me to unplug it.

Wow - that's a safety feature more than anything. I guess Stern doesn't care about your safety if you're a pro buyer.

I have had this pin from the day it came out the box. It has the tab on the door for the switch but no switch in the cabinet.

I think Stern removed it around Ghostbusters I believe. My Iron maiden pro and Star Wars pro both dont have it, but the newer ones like Jurassic Park and Stranger Things do.

Anyone in western Canada looking to get out of the club? I would consider a GOT pro trade. Not looking to ship. Would have to be in AB, SK, MB.

Cutting back on a safety feature sounds like a big mistake. One serious lawsuit and Stern would be finished. I'm glad they put it back into production. That being said, on games without it is there a physical jumper somewhere that overrides the need for the closed door signal or is it done in software?

I prefered not having it, was sad to see them return. You shouldn't be working on the game with it on anyway if you're worried about safety. All this does is make you lose balls if you need to open it during multiball and confuse people with weird boot errors.

Don't forget about saving some kid's life. You and I aren't going to have a problem but I can seem some curious kid getting hurt badly. Stern must have realized this also since since they brought it back. It was a bad call to remove it. If a couple bucks makes a game safer it is well worth it.

For a long time, the Spike games had no interlock, including almost all Star Wars produced. Only the newest ones have it. The reason given at the time was that Spike games were not technically "high voltage" (under 50V) so they no longer needed it. Wonder if the move back to interlock was more to protect node boards than people.

It is not a safety feature, lets get that straight. Now that the power switch is on the backbox, there is no AC voltage in the cabinet. Stern went ahead and removed the switch because it was no longer needed for safety regulations. In the end I think they put it back because the "coin door ball saver" and other features the switch brings into play are important for Tournament play. It helps the tech to repair the game without tilting or somehow otherwise losing the ball. Once the repair is done and the door is closed, the solenoids receive power again. If for some reason the ball drained during the repair or the tilt was hit, the ball will be returned to the player. I would thank Josh and Keith for the return of this switch. I'm not sure the features are even in the software on SW or BKSoR though at this point. Hopefully they return those features to all of the games that did not get this harness, so they can be retrofitted.

Aren't the coils still energized if the door switch is gone? That is what i would be worried about.

Sure they are still energized. We have all been shocked by coil voltage. It is the electrical equivalent of a paper cut. It is not something that requires a lockout by electrical standards. Don't get me wrong though, I am fully in favor of bringing the coin door switches back and having the coil voltage disabled when the door is open. Not really for safety reasons though, it would be nice to have the coils de-energized while trying to work on a machine during a game in progress to prevent shorting the coil voltage to switch voltage while poking around. I did that on my Meteor while working on a machine right in the middle of a game in a major tournament.

So what you are telling me is that it is "safer" to have the door switch.

I've always wished there was just an easily accessible switch inside the game to disable the coil voltage. No worry of losing balls if you open the door, or if you actually want to have a coil firing while you're testing something, but easy to turn them off when needed

Could someone with a Premium and the Mezel Airball Protector please post a picture of the install? I received one, but I think it is for the pro model. I can't figure out how it installs with the Tie Fighter there. Thanks in advance!

Herr we Go...

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Thank you! I see it now.

I love the occasional airball! I have seen them land in the left inlane habitrail. Pretty neat.

I saw a YouTube video of gameplay with John Williams score how do I get that?

I'm not that deep into the game yet, but I notice a severe lack of Lando. Someone please tell me eventually I'll here "Hello, what have we here?".