I'd recommend a read through the thread. There's a bunch of different posts about people addressing it in different ways. Some work better then others for different pins. Start with the easiest and work your way to the more labor intensive.

I want to do this.

I turn off the stacking, maybe it's holding me back on score but I feel like it just makes sense to play only one scene (well I know that some MB stack) but in general just one mode at a time.

Imagine if playing ST you were battling Nero and saving the Enterprise and doing space jump all at the same time.

sure also when he talks about a pin (his opinion) but he just can say this pins sucks (and he doesn't really say maybe other people love it it's just my opinion and admit he really hasn't learned how to play the game).

I only rate the pins that I've owned. That might not be correct but I see a bunch of reviews not just SW but something like a review would say I played it at the show 1-2 times and it was not great and then give it a very low rating. Or even worse someone will say played somewhat on location and the flipper was broken and then give it a low rating. I only really feel comfortable to rate something after I've played it 100-200 times.

I installed a siamese post. It evened out the ball exits.

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If you are going by the audits, make sure you add in number of times "escape" is used to the right outline numbers if you really want to have a true feel of left vs right drains.

Look back around two months ago on this thread there was a lot of discussion on this. You can move that post down, also can add a short rubber around it and the post above it to help bounce balls out of that death pocket, or add the Siamese double post in place of factory post.
In addition if there was ever a code polishing update it would be Very Helpful if they would make the ballsave an actual timer countdown, because no matter what you do it can still autolaunch out-lane drains back to back and then your balls done quick and that’s never fun for anyone!

I believe Dwight programmed a true ball save timer in the last GB code. Since he did both Games, I imagine he’ll throw one in SW. That is, IF he revisits SW again.

The nerd is strong with me ... had these from 1977 ... I may find a place for Vader in the machine since it’s near mint

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I had the original board game purchased new by my parents. Too bad it's long gone...

I think there is a software issue or am I interpreting this wrong. Last night I received a Tech Alert on Switch 56 (Mid Fork Ramp). The problem is that when I went to fix the issue it ended up that the ramp was actually Switch 65 not 56. I think I ran into this with a different switch once before. Has anyone else seen this? Thanks

Take another look at your alert. Switch 56 should be a sling shot. I think this sling shot is in the pop bumper area. It is also possible that the manual is wrong. Seen that before.
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Nice collection!
90% from '78 when I got them. Others I have gotten in the last year. Just a heads up, they were released in '78 not '77, they just have a date stamp of '77.

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Just installed Retro refurbs comic book edition blades on my regular pro. I think they look right at home !

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That’s awesome man , I actually had the ships you have but they’re long gone .
I heard some of the original figures are worth big money , especially if they’re still packaged.

Which toy star destroyer are you guys getting to add to your pin? Thanks!

Check this out at Amazon.com
Star Wars: Armada - Imperial Class Star Destroyer https://www.amazon.com/dp/1633441180/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_jrI.Db58HFSYC

This is the one you want, don’t go with the smaller one and stay away from the lighted pinball mods version, it’s a shitty gob of crap with some lights.

The armada series is highly detailed.

I'm going through this right now. I have three different ones, with another one coming. The first one I ordered from Lighted Pinball Mods looked like a 3rd-grade art project. Describing it as terrible is being way too nice. They have promised to send me one of their new improved versions (WTF?) to replace it with. It will be unpainted, so I can paint it to my preference. Okay

So while I dealt with the above issue, I ordered both a Victory-class and Imperial-class star destroyer from Amazon (Armada). I wasn't sure how they would look due to size differences. The Victory-class has closer to the correct size perspective relative to the Death Star, but it looks too small to fill that large void back there.

With the Imperial-class, it fills the space perfectly, but the perspective is off. So far I prefer the larger Imperial-class. When the replacement "lighted" version arrives, I'll paint it up and see how that looks.
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The Imperial looks the best and is the more iconic example from original trilogy of all of them, matches the art on the premium as well since they are all imperial class.

I positioned my added ships to reflect a battle. A Star Destroyer, a Tie Fighter and Darth Vader's fighter placed at the far end and an X-wing over the shooter lane across from the stock Millennium Falcon. Rebels vs the Imperial Fleet.

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Hello all. New to the club. I just set up my comic edition and I’m getting some node board errors that are popping up. 1,8,9,10. What are those boards used for?

Congratulation on the new game. Does the game play fine? That error is usually seen on Spike 2 Systems if the game is turned on with the door open. My Elvira was getting it but they fixed the reporting of in with a code update. I have never seen it on my Star Wars but I only had mine for a week now.

Make sure the coin door is closed when you power up the game. The interlock shuts off power to node boards now.

So its been awhile since I checked in on the topper and I see they are finally out in the wild. Perhaps its the frugal part of me, but $765 for a topper since a bit much. I get it rotates a bit, lights up a bit but for that price, I'd expect more.

Just ordered a comic premium that will be here next week. How is shaker motor in this game? I hate it in my deadpool, wondering how integration is with SW

I think it’s integrated well, video mode goes off every time you hit an asteroid as well.

I love the shaker in my Deadpool. I hated it in my SW, it shook very very aggressively during video mode and end sequence. I pulled it and put it in my IMDN.

It was my test of using a ‘stern certified’ shaker, where I typically just buy Pinball life shakers. So that may play into the aggressive poor use of it in SW. otherwise, I’m a big fan of shaker motors. It’s great in my other 3 games.

Thats why i hate it in my deadpool! Even on moderate its ridiculously loud and goes off constantly. Maybe its the shaker I bought which I believe is stern brand. I guess i can pull it from DP and put in SW

Interesting! Then it’s probably not coincidental, I’ve heard from other people that the stern official one is known to be choppier/harder on the shakes. I may just order another pinball life shaker after all and try it in SW again.

I reset the weight offset in all my shakers...make them about 135 deg and it's perfect, just have to be careful about clearance on the weight (make adjustments with power off) that it doesn't touch the wiring as it rotates, which will short/blow your game, as there is no preset dimple for the allen screw, it's all eyeballing

How do you do that? I just ordered a pinball life one for my incoming SW. think im going to order blade art as well....

I have experience with both shakers. The Stern one is more aggressive and shakes harder.

lots of pages of this thread to look through. Anyone give me some advice on the best pitch to set the game up at? is it a just put the bubble in the middle and forget it game?

6.5 degrees.

Ty

Ive been very happy with my Stern shaker motors

I have the lighted one from Hooked on Pinball. It’s very detailed and perfect size. I love it. It says it’s sold out right now but they might make more. Can’t imagine they drop it with a new line just coming out at Stern.

https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p117/Star-Wars-Star-Destroyer-Ship-Add-On-Pinball-Mod.html

Easiest to do before you install the shaker.

Just loosen one of the weights (allen screw), until the screw comes out of the predrilled recess hole, then rotate the weight until the two weights look like they are 135 degrees apart. Use caution not to make contact with the wire connections again..Screw back down firmly and try to make sure weight is perpendicular to motor shaft and not leaning in or away from motor...it should parallel other weight when looking top down, but will be offset 135 degrees (approx) when looked at from side...

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This. Especially if you have a premium / LE.

Thank you for the info guys. The game does play great and it was just an open coin door. Pinside rocks!

Have a question on the capacitor mod that came out in the latest service bulletins. Apparently my game already had this done from the factory though the wiring is different. Has anyone else noticed this and is one preferred to another. Please see pictures...

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If you read the service bulletin, it states the dates that games had this installed at the factory. If your game build date if after the service bulletin, you don’t need this “fix”. Highly unlikely you would need this on a NIb game today unless it’s been sitting at your distributor for a couple years.

I have shakers in most of my games including star wars but decided not to put them into my two newest games (DP is that & JP2). I think some of the issues with loose parts on JP2 are in direct correlation with the shaker motor. Now that I dont have shakers in those 2 games I really dont miss them.

I used the red ones. One set doesn’t even match and didn’t like the characters on the final set. I like how the red set looks in my machine but no pics right now

Question about Hyperspace Multiball... I’ve been playing Luke’s character , going into tie fighters , and I’ve reached Hyperspace MB a few times ... I’m trying to figure out how I reached that mode .. I’ve read the rules , but I think I’m missing something ? Not sure .. any help would be greatly appreciated

You enter Hyperspace MB after making 2 Hyperspace hurry-up shots. You can make the first HS HU shot right at the start of a new game. Shoot either yellow lit shot located at the Left Orbit or Right Ramp to start the Left Loop (Death Star) hurry-up. After making that LL HU shot you'll need to complete all four bottom in-lane Rebel lights 4 times to relight the yellow shots again (LO & RR) and if you make the LL hurry-up for the second time then HS MB starts.

Thanks man .... I need to get this again as it’s the best reward in pinball I’ve ever seen

I installed Han & Leia blades on my pro. Photos here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/install-inner-side-art-on-stern-pro-spike-system

I have Han & Leia & plan to install them on my LE. I also liked Yoda & Darth pair.

-Adam