Thats a good plan until Friday.

Dang it! I might have to limit you to 2 ball games.

Fun!! Almost killed emperor twice and after finishing such a long, epic game I still wanted to play again at the finish. Lovin it...

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Me too guys just still really really loving this pin.. I have started restricting myself from playing don’t wanna wear out.

This is a great point. I've always loved the theme integration on this game including the audio and video integration, but there was always one thing that didn't connect, which I couldn't quite put my finger on. You've hit the nail on the head.

Still no actual announcement for the topper. No pics. No description. F**king crickets...

Yeah it’s beyond ridiculous at this point, irritating!

Well, honestly I'm not so crazed about topers. Would have gotten this one just for the sake to have a "maxed out" SWLE. However, now MonsterBAsh Remake has been anounced and I am working hard on figuring out how to pay for it. So much for the topper. It's almost ten percent of the MBr actual machine or about 15 percent of a then downpriced original...

In case anyone was wondering what Happens when you hit every shot in LSD with a 40X as Luke....

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Nope sorry Eskaybee, whenever LSD is "forced upon" me and ruins the game immersion I'm having and when I can't "turn it off" I just quit playing because my vag is released from the world under the glass.

sorry, wrong place to post this.

So, my SW Deathstar led array had one led go out. Thanks to my distro and Stern! I now have the replacement free of charge. I do worry about the future with these boards (someone was selling one on eBay for $200... ), but Stern has always had my back.

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I just installed my custom powder coated armor on my Star Wars pro Nice glossy black with blue and green metallic flake.

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Aaaaahhh! Worked great for 2 games. Then LED 6 went out again. Pulled the board. The top of the LED cracked off. Noticed it when hyperspace multiball was going. I’m guessing there was a small crack and finally fell off with the vibration. 1st LED 6 goes out for unknown reasons, my distro and Stern give me a new one, and now this...what are the odds. Contacted Stern to see what my options are.

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Sure would be nice if someone would come out with a back lighting kit for those light saber side rails.

There is something contacting the diode. Could be misalignment, a warped part, stress from mounting, etc. At least you know it's a mechanical problem.

Jeese! That sucks - it took sooo long to get a replacement and you are back to square one. That’s the one thing I don’t like about LEDs. Incandescents were so simple and cheap...

Oooh, wait. How brittle are these diodes (I’ve never tested them. Just figure they were pretty durable). When I installed the new one, I did notice that the diodes closest to 6, and 6, didn’t stick through the holes in the deathstar shell as far as the others...the plate attaching the array board to the deathstar isn’t 100% bent correct. I didn’t think much about it. But if this is causing the diode to get hit by the edge of the hole it’s suppose to stick though, this may be my problem. Especially with a lot of vibration (hyperspace multiball). Thoughts?

Just joined with a pro on Friday. Great game , But wondering if anyone else has had this issue and does stern do anything for the issue. My playfield has sanding lines or planer lines in it and make all the images look blurred. The entire PF is like this. You can feel all the lines too when you run your hand over it. NIB is great and all, But when this is seen kinda puts a kink in it.

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Normal. I have seen this on a lot of machines.

Typically, I say it's normal but it does seem a little excessive on yours. I would contact your distributor and see what what he & stern says about it.

Unfortunately it seems to be the new norm. Most SW and IMDNs I've seen in person have some level of this. Probably doesn't make you feel much better but you're not alone.

Had them on mine too. But don't worry, ball dimpling will flatten those out. Then ball dimpling will make you uneasy at first. Except after you play the heck out of the game, then even the ball dimples (orange peel) will flatten out to a degree and look better. So play the heck out of it!

...stepping onto my soapbox...

My NIB SW has this “planking” or “wood grain” issue too.
As for new Stern games I bought GB, MET, TWD, and now SW. The SW is the only one with this issue. It’s not terrible but it’s noticeable and it bothers me. As in Brtlkat’s pics it’s mostly visible with light reflecting on the playfield.
I’ve heard statements made by many guys saying “this is the new norm” or “just play it and it will eventually wear down”. Why should we have to accept anything less than perfect? I’m not making excuses for Stern and saying this is OK because it isn’t OK!
My NIB JJP DILE doesn’t have this issue either.
Imagine you order and pay top dollar for a brand new vehicle from the factory. It shows up and you can see visible lines in the paint all over the body. Would you accept this? Would you make excuses and say “it’s OK, I’ll just drive the heck out of it and the paint will eventually get chipped and worn and then I won’t notice or care anymore”?
Bottom line. We pay top dollar for a brand new game and we deserve a game that looks and plays perfectly. Stern’s quality control needs to catch this at the factory and NOT ship it out this way.

....stepping off of my soapbox....

Junky

Pinball machines are exactly the same as cars.

My star wars has those lines too. I think this may be the new norm from stern- Ive had 3 games with this added feature (TWD, Aerosmith, & Star Wars

Your DILE will dimple like mad just the same as the Sterns. Once the dimpling is set in, the little lines that will cease to matter. My SW Premium doesn't have the little lines. Probably the Premiums and LEs have a little more clear coat. It also has surprisingly little dimpling considering the amount of play.

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I understand the dimpling considering it’s a heavy metal ball on a wood surface. The planking from the factory is something different though.

Understand, and I should add that I am not trying to downplay the pictures posted above. There are lines and there are lines. To me the ones posted above by BRTLKAT are not acceptable.

My Iron Man and GoT (now sold) have this. I found that these playfields seem to dimple far less compared to my other Stern games.

I would recommend the OP contact their distributor about this. If the art was 'blurry' from all angles and especially from player view, then I would certainly think it should be replaced.

Rob

Well they used to have chipped/cracked clear in a couple areas till they were forced to put "cliffys" on them.

All the defects give good reason to buy used locally. See what you are buying.

If the same LED failed again, then I would suspect something else is causing the failure. Most likely a short sending higher voltage to that particular lamp circuit and blowing the LED. An LED may shatter like the second one did in such cases, or just go 'open' like the first one.

Rob

I thought about that...but I think this is 2 separate problems. Yes, I know, this is a 1 in a million deal. One reason I think this is that I hooked the original up and put some lateral pressure on LED 6 and it lit...probably cracked solder or leg. I was given the idea to reflow the LED. I’m willing to try this, would be a first for me, but I want to see what Chas says first. Sometimes Stern wants the failed part back to test it themselves...I assume for quality control reasons. The second reason is that 2 LEDs are run by one wire in the harness. If this was a short, I would expect both those LEDs to fail. If I’m wrong thinking this way, tell me. I’m very much a novice when it comes to voltages, shorts, etc. The second LED went out during hyperspace multiball...a ton of vibration. Then again, a lot of electrical stuff going off too.

Thanks for the reply. This such a weird situation, that I may be asking for more help with this.

Chas misunderstood and congratulated me on fixing my board...lol. Guess I’ll try reflow the solder to LED 6...hope I’m as successful as he thinks I was. Wish me luck! My soldering iron is a basic 30 watt from Radio Shack...this is the one I use on other jobs on my pins, but is this ok for board work? I’m such a hack with soldering.

You just need to melt one bit of solder and let it cool again, it should be fine as long as the tip is small enough not to accidentally hit another solder pad at the same time, don't want to bridge them together

If you're not comfortable find someone to do it for you. And while you're at it have them fix the second board by replacing the LED too. Theres a bunch of people, who do this all the time, and there are also LEDs to be bough everywhere.

I tried. The reflow didn’t look pretty, but was done...damn those are small solders. Unfortunately, I still had to apply stiff lateral pressure to get the LED to light. First I tried to solder the leg I though was affected...way to small to do. Then I tried to bend it lateral...didn’t work. I suspect the fracture was just inside the LED and couldn’t be fixed. Chas emailed me that if I failed he get me a replacement. Nothing but good things to say about Stern support.

Probably a replacement LED could fix it, but you'd need to know the part number to match the color and intensity and I doubt that's listed in their 'schematics'

OK. ENOUGH ALREADY! Where is the DAMN TOPPER!?!?

Gotta agree with kermit here!

In the wind. Spent my money elseware. If it’s a real R2...I’m in. Othwise... nope.

Will be available to order sometime in 2019 it seems.

This a joke? IF true where did u hear this?

It is a joke, my comment as well as it has been over a year now that the game has been shipping and still no sign of the topper. I'm ready to see the reveal so I can decide if I'll be spending the money on it, if I feel it is worth it.

Hopefully topper today and Aerosmith code!

Deadpool reveal is today, so can't see either one of those happening today.

Geez - down voted for hoping to get what so many want... tough crowd

These have sold.