Your shooter lane cliffys aren't really doing anything. They should line up with the edge of the ball channel on each side. Because they aren't you have wear on both sides starting. The right side metal guide won't move if you use the clamp and install the screws back in the order mentioned in the instructions. Clamping is a necessary part of the install process to make it stay put.

He was doing $1 play or $2 for $3 in the beginning. Dunno what he's doing now, but he has a 50/50 location split, too.

If you use the clamp and follow the instructions, you don't need anything more than it comes with.

Lowering the coil power helps with that (and helps the machine last longer).

Probably around $4k. Maybe $4250. The plays don't really matter, it's the general condition that's the sales point.

You really should fix your shifted shooter lane cliffys so those ball grooves don't get much worse. If you follow the instructions EXACTLY and use clamps (not optional!) when re-installing, they won't move.

Condition definitely matters more than plays.

But vintage Spiderman is like a current Premium Stern. We're talking about a Pro ST.

Fix the cliffy on the right side of that shooter lane and it won't move again and will protect the trough. You MUST use a clamp when fixing it while you adjust and re-screw it in or it will move again.

The electrical tape trick is perfect. Once you do it, they never come out again, and you can't see it when it's in the socket.

I just took a couple pics of the process.

You basically bend the legs out on the bulb, precut a piece of electrical tape so it can cover both sides of the bulb base, then cut that to make it slightly less than 1/2 height. Then take that piece of electrical tape and fold it over both sides of the base from left to right (or right to left) with the sticky side towards the bulb (so the outside is smooth) and finish by bending the legs back down over the tape. Makes the base more thick and "grabby". Works great on 555-style LED bulbs and especially wedge flashers in spotlights.

bulb_electrical_tape_sml (resized).jpg

WoZ spotlight kit lights and Metallica Premium spotlights were the bane of my existence until I tried this. None I've done have fallen out for well over a year on location with pretty heavy use. It should solve your issue, too. Good luck.

There is, but it's for the back side and it looks like he already has it installed on this pin. I'm not sure if there's room for two (one front, one back) and still have the target work right.

Here's a pic from Cliffy's website:

BillD-Drop01 (resized).jpg

Once you try it, you will be converted. It's a great solution that actually solves the problem LED bulb manufacturers of the 555-alikes can't seem to.

Yes! I'm watching the wear happen while the solution is millimeters to the side. It's like a pinball snuff film!

The LED in the pictures was one I grabbed that was handy. It's a crappy LED I do not recommend. For GI I pretty much only use the Optimus Max comet pinball ones. For inserts, I'm partial to leaving the incandescents in and just using LED where I need a little more brightness.

The pictures are basically just to give you an idea of how to do it on ANY wedge-type LED bulb or flasher. Works equally well on all I have tried.

You can clean the area with some rubbing alcohol to remove residual wax then use some auto clear touchup to seal the area again.

Yay! If you used a clamp before re-tightening, it won't move again.

Electrical tape around the base of the bulb fixes the problem for a fraction of a penny each bulb and the install is cleaner. They'll never come out again by themselves once this is done:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

Do you have the carpet-munching minigame ROM in it? That's good for a laugh, but they took it out before the last ROM.

You need the version with the carpet munching minigame to find out if cartman "is a lesbian." <- he says something like that.

I use P21S for the wax (which takes up the ball trail dirt), then take it off with a shop cloth, then buff it out with a wool pad on a cordless drill. Makes the playfield SHINE with not a lot of work.

The drill attachment and washable wool pad can be had cheap at harbor freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-mini-polishing-and-buffing-kit-with-14-in-shank-4-pc-69335.html

That was an EXTREMELY good deal. The buyer made out.

Meh. Don't get too hung up on the play count. The amount of documented work needed was mostly minor. I'd buy star trek pros at $3200 all day long in this condition. Could have easily got $3700-$3900. $3200 is an extremely good deal for the machine documented here.

You're extraordinarily generous with your sale pricing. In this case, if I bought it for home use, I wouldn't have even replaced a cracked ramp that didn't affect play. Lots of people have cracked ramps at the entrances on their games RIGHT NOW and don't even know it.

Backlight is the biggest pain. Sometimes those are hard to nail down.

Basically I'd hand you $3200, rebuild the three flippers, clean the machine, mylar by the target and start playing it. Eventually the backlight would bug me enough that I'd fix it. $150+time max for all of it. $3350 is a killer deal for a Star Trek Pro that plays great.

Anyway, everyone that lives near you are lucky ducks when it's time to sell your next pin.