(Topic ID: 167092)

Stern Star Trek Nebula Mod

By Zitt

5 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 86 days ago by Zitt
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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ST Nebula mod revised (resized).jpg
sst_nebulaDSC_0111 (resized).jpg
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#1 5 years ago

I'm pleased to announce the official launch of our Nebula Backboard lighting kit for the Stern Star Trek Pinball machines. Previously; this product was discussed in our New Product thread here on Pinside.

This kit contains 3 circuit boards which you snap apart and install using our detailed step-by-step instructions provided freely on our product page. These boards install behind the Nebula plastics on any Stern Star Trek's backboard and is 100% compatible with our GI_Dimmer which we'll be announcing officially in a few days. With our Dimmer; the nebula's lighting can be controlled in both Normal and Klingon Multiball using one of our PWM channels.

Before:
Stock, Unlit BackBoard

After:
Our Kit Lit and Installed

For More information Or To Purchase; please visit our store:
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-stern-star-trek-star-trek-nebula-p-15.html

#3 5 years ago

JohnF of Florida - your nebula mod is at the post office.

2 months later
3 months later
#5 4 years ago

I just wanted to show off this great mod. Installed it last night and I couldn't be happier. It really brings the backboard to life and gives the nebula a much more pronounced 3D look. I also added the upgraded red laser and soon the BOP wing LED kit too. Thanks John!

ST Nebula mod revised (resized).jpg

3 months later
#6 4 years ago

Is there a video?
Thanks

#7 4 years ago

None that I know of. IMHO; there isn't a need for a video- as there is no color changers on the board.

6 months later
#8 4 years ago

Our Nebula Mod is eligible for our Black Friday 16% off Sale while supplies last. Discount does not apply to shipping.

Must Enter Discount Code: BF2017

2 weeks later
2 years later
#10 2 years ago

The Nebula mod is on sale during our Star_Trek: Picard salethru 1/27/20.

1 year later
#11 3 months ago

Zitt

I'm about to install the mod, and reading the instruction I'm puzzled on one point: why not solder the wires to connect the remote PCB to the main bird shape PCB directly on the bench ?

I don't see on the installation manual that soldering before would cause issue during installation. Worth case I remove additionnal plastics, much preferred to soldering directly in the cabinet, no ? Unless I'm missing something ?

Regards

#12 3 months ago

Ashram56 Sorry; forgot to reply yesterday as I was on my phone and I hate typing on my phone.

Honestly; it's been several years (5) since I did this installation. Everything I knew at the time was put into the install document.

I don't recall what would have prevented an external soldering step.
I have a vague recollection on not knowing how long to make the interconnect wires and how they might interfere with the plastics and screw holes.

By all means; if you find a better installation method - please do share.

#13 87 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Ashram56 Sorry; forgot to reply yesterday as I was on my phone and I hate typing on my phone.
Honestly; it's been several years (5) since I did this installation. Everything I knew at the time was put into the install document.
I don't recall what would have prevented an external soldering step.
I have a vague recollection on not knowing how long to make the interconnect wires and how they might interfere with the plastics and screw holes.
By all means; if you find a better installation method - please do share.

Thanks, I'll try tonight or tomorrow if time permits

Regards

#14 87 days ago

Installation done

If course I lost a spacer somewhere in the machine, someday it will appear...

You can solder before (and in my opinion it's recommended), but you need to plan at least 12cm of wire for the 3 wire between the bird shape and the small remote PCB

Also, for the PCB on the left there is an opening above the warp ramp, on the left, just below the plastic, much more convenient

Also recommend to use small two pins connector for the main JGI, you can crimp the metal connector but not slide it in the housing, and do so only once the wire has been positioned through the backboard

Lastly in your documentation you forgot a whole section about the need to wire between each end of the bird like shape using the three pins connectors. At least I did, to be fair maybe there is a trace on the PCB, I did not even test...

#15 86 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Lastly in your documentation you forgot a whole section about the need to wire between each end of the bird like shape using the three pins connectors. At least I did, to be fair maybe there is a trace on the PCB, I did not even test...

I don't follow.
Bullet 5 on pp6 shows connection to the -65 board.
Bullet 13 on pp 11 shows the coonection to the "bird shape" board (-94b).
You only need one 3pin connection (unless the board had a defect).

What am I missing?

#16 86 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I don't follow.
Bullet 5 on pp6 shows connection to the -65 board.
Bullet 13 on pp 11 shows the coonection to the "bird shape" board (-94b).
You only need one 3pin connection (unless the board had a defect).
What am I missing?

It's mounted right now, so can't show it

On two of the PCBs, you have two small 3-pin headers, one across each side of the wide gape in the middle of the PCB, they are facing each other . I assumed this was needed to ensure the leds on the far end of the PCB was driven. Truth be told, I did not check if there was continuity before soldering....

#17 86 days ago

Ah. I'd you look at the schematics in appendix, you'll see that the 3pin connectors within a board are already connected together.

You only need to bridge that connector between boards. Ie If the connection is broken by snapping

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