Manhattan, IL
Quoted from MarkAnderson:All 7 fuses have continuity.
What's your test method here?
A fuse can have continuity but the fuse holder or clip could be garbage.
(Topic ID: 329565)
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Split Second
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Quoted from vdojaq:How is this possible with all of these Voltage changes at each of the testing points? You need to recheck all of your soldering work on the rectifier board. Be 100% sure your solders are solid on both sides! Especially your bridge rectifier and fuse clips.
I will recheck all the soldering on the rectifier board. I will check solder on both sides of the board. I will double check the Bridge rectifier and the fuse clips.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I will recheck all the soldering on the rectifier board. I will check solder on both sides of the board. I will double check the Bridge rectifier and the fuse clips.
Not just your soldering. Verify every connection in the circuit. You may have something under shrink wrap or tape that is not even soldered at all. The amount of time spent on verifying voltages is concerning.
Quoted from sparky672:Yeah... I have to agree. And I'm honestly having a hard time following along. One minute, all voltages test good and the next minute, some are zero. This machine definitely has something loose or broken, probably hidden inside of heat shrink or tape.
There are two wires in the bottom of the machine that are still wire nutted together. One is orange and one is red They both run from the head of the cabinet to j3 rectifier board connector. That is the sum total of heat shrinked, wire wrapped, wire nutted and jerry rigged wires that I can find. I plan on restringing those. There is a hacked coin switch wiring in the front door. Coin switch wires are red / yellow and red / grey. Previous owner removed two wires from the coin switch and rewired it into an add credit button. I have run into 1975 Ballys that a coin switch wire prevented the game from starting? The fuse clips on the rectifier board are solid and its a new rec board. I actually cant pull the fuses out with my fingers I have to use a plastic fuse puller.
Quoted from sparky672:Not just your soldering. Verify every connection in the circuit. You may have something under shrink wrap or tape that is not even soldered at all. The amount of time spent on verifying voltages is concerning.
I will verify each connection in the circuit. Right now the wire that i fixed that was loose on the transformer is loose again. It is on lug 10.
Quoted from sparky672:What's your test method here?
A fuse can have continuity but the fuse holder or clip could be garbage.
Originally when I tested continuity I tested from a point on the trace associated with the fuse to a point on the trace associated with the other side of the fuse.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I will verify each connection in the circuit. Right now the wire that i fixed that was loose on the transformer is loose again. It is on lug 10.
I had originally suggested that you fill the uninsulated crimp with solder. That method should never come loose.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:Originally when I tested continuity I tested from a point on the trace associated with the fuse to a point on the trace associated with the other side of the fuse.
Sounds reasonable.
this sounds like a connection issue, also remember there is only one AC Test Point/circuit, being the General Illumination, TP4.
have you repined the connectors J1, J2 & J3?
if not I highly suggest investing in a quality crimper, a few hundred trifurcon pins to suit the connectors.
if your confident with it fine, or I can run you through how I do it which isn't for everyone.
crimping sucks and takes a long time but is worth it.
if you're not too skilled at soldering and don't have the correct tip on your soldering iron and some narrow solder you'll end up melting the insulation in the crimp pin
Quoted from sparky672:I had originally suggested that you fill the uninsulated crimp with solder. That method should never come loose.
Sounds reasonable.
I did fill the crimp with solder but it came loose not at the connection point in the crimp but at the point that the wire comes out of the paper.
Quoted from Rikoshay:this sounds like a connection issue, also remember there is only one AC Test Point/circuit, being the General Illumination, TP4.
have you repined the connectors J1, J2 & J3?
if not I highly suggest investing in a quality crimper, a few hundred trifurcon pins to suit the connectors.
if your confident with it fine, or I can run you through how I do it which isn't for everyone.
crimping sucks and takes a long time but is worth it.
if you're not too skilled at soldering and don't have the correct tip on your soldering iron and some narrow solder you'll end up melting the insulation in the crimp pin
I repinned J1, J2 & J3. I bought a Waldom W-HTR-1719C Ratchet Hand Crimp Tool with locator and it is amazing. I realized that I really like crimping. Its satisfying because you can see what a difference a new connector is going to make in the connection. I bought the white covers and the trifurcon pins. Repining went well. I used the black pins and not the white ones. I looked for three sided connectors but settled for the non three sided. I have a Hakko 936 soldering iron which is has a reostat on it. . I don't think that any insulation got melted.
It looks like i have power all the way to E1 and E2 but getting from there to the transformer seems to be the issue. So I am reworking that right now.
TP1=5.87 VDC Should be approximately +5.4VDC
TP2=189 VDC Should be approx 230 VDC.
TP3=12.8 VDC Should be approx 12 VDC
TP4=6.34 VAC Should be approx 7.3 VAC
TP5=44 VDC Should be approx 43 VDC
Quoted from MarkAnderson:TP1=5.87 VDC Should be approximately +5.4VDC
TP2=189 VDC Should be approx 230 VDC.
TP3=12.8 VDC Should be approx 12 VDC
TP4=6.34 VAC Should be approx 7.3 VAC
TP5=44 VDC Should be approx 43 VDC
Everything is good except for tip 2, it should be approx 210 vdc or better. You need to double check everything in that circuit on your board. Make 100% sure everything is installed correctly, including polarities. and connections.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:TP1=5.87 VDC Should be approximately +5.4VDC
TP2=189 VDC Should be approx 230 VDC.
TP3=12.8 VDC Should be approx 12 VDC
TP4=6.34 VAC Should be approx 7.3 VAC
TP5=44 VDC Should be approx 43 VDC
SHOW us pictures of the top side(parts side) of your board
In a previous post, you reported 183 VAC at transformer tabs 8 & 10 so that's good.
However, in various other posts, you've reported many different voltages at TP2, one time as low as 33 VDC. (Loose connections?)
Looking at the schematic, with 183 VAC input, if you're now not getting something that is at least 230 VDC at TP2, then you only have to test/inspect diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4, resistor R3, and all the wires/connections in between. (Assuming F2 is solid.)
Quoted from sparky672:In a previous post, you reported 183 VAC at transformer tabs 8 & 10 so that's good.
However, in various other posts, you've reported many different voltages at TP2, one time as low as 33 VDC. (Loose connections?)
Looking at the schematic, if you're now not getting something closer to 230 VDC at TP2, then you only have to test/inspect diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4, resistor R3, and all the wires/connections in between. (Assuming F2 is solid.)
[quoted image]
You would definitely know which is my issue. 8 to 10 on the transformer is that small wire that was sticking out of the transformer that was loose from the transformer lug. It is the one that you and I discussed and after our discussion I connected the wire to a crimp connector and then connected a wire to the crimp connector and then filled the connector with solder and soldered the wire onto the lug. It still seems to vary in voltage at least 10 volts from time to time. Is it more likely that is my issue or is it more likely the board is my issue?
Quoted from sparky672:In a previous post, you reported 183 VAC at transformer tabs 8 & 10 so that's good.
However, in various other posts, you've reported many different voltages at TP2, one time as low as 33 VDC. (Loose connections?)
Looking at the schematic, with 183 VAC input, if you're now not getting something that is at least 230 VDC at TP2, then you only have to test/inspect diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4, resistor R3, and all the wires/connections in between. (Assuming F2 is solid.)
[quoted image]
I will inspect these right now. CR1, CR2, CR3, Cr4 Resistor R3 and all the wires connections in between I will also recheck F2.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:You would definitely know which is my issue. 8 to 10 on the transformer is that small wire that was sticking out of the transformer that was loose from the transformer lug. It is the one that you and I discussed and after our discussion I connected the wire to a crimp connector and then connected a wire to the crimp connector and then filled the connector with solder and soldered the wire onto the lug. It still seems to vary in voltage at least 10 volts from time to time. Is it more likely that is my issue or is it more likely the board is my issue?
I would not worry so much about +/- 10 VAC variation right now.
If you should have 230 VDC when the transformer is putting out 173 VAC, then a little more (183 VAC) should give you a little more than 230 VDC... not less.
Quoted from vdojaq:SHOW us pictures of the top side(parts side) of your board
Top side of the Rectifier Board
PXL_20230330_203720601 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203725787 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203730401 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203735039 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203738002 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203741901 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203749925 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203806927 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203806927 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203815153 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203819850 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203827031 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203830370 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203834665 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203838477 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203842106 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203846335 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203846335 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203855102 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203855102 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203858724 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203901592 (resized).jpgPXL_20230330_203906665 (resized).jpgGet a toothbrush and some alcohol and scrub off all that excess flux. Otherwise, visually, I don't see any issues. You really need to test those 4 diodes in the bridge circuit. Scroll down to the diodes section for test procedure. This is a test with power off.
https://www.testmultimeter.com/2021/11/multimeter-test-bridge-rectifier-diode.html
Quoted from sparky672:Get a toothbrush and some alcohol and scrub off all that excess flux. Otherwise, visually, I don't see any issues. You really need to test those 4 diodes in the bridge circuit. Scroll down to the diodes section for test procedure. This is a test with power off.
https://www.testmultimeter.com/2021/11/multimeter-test-bridge-rectifier-diode.html
I tested it in board and it is working.
I used this technique for inboard testing of a bridge rectifier from Pinballhelp.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I tested it in board and it is working.
"working" or all diodes passed the DMM test?
I suggested the DMM test for all diodes, because if one diode is bad, you're still going to read DC output but it's going to be partial.
Quoted from sparky672:"working" or all diodes passed the DMM test?
I suggested the DMM test for all diodes, because if one diode is bad, you're still going to read DC output but it's going to be partial.
I did both your suggested diode test and I also did the test from pinball help.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I did both your suggested diode test and I also did the test from pinball help.
I don't know what else to say. The circuit is super simple and if you're getting full AC voltage from the transformer, then you should see full DC voltage at the test point.
Quoted from sparky672:Where exactly are you putting the other DMM lead when testing DC voltage at TP2 ?
I check 3 places red to the test point 2. Black to
Ground braid 189 vdc. Red to 2 black to leg of large resistor (labeled Yago 620R 10W).
Quoted from sparky672:I don't know what else to say. The circuit is super simple and if you're getting full AC voltage from the transformer, then you should see full DC voltage at the test point.
[quoted image]
I know. I agree. Maybe remove and resolder the connections from transformer ?
Quoted from sparky672:I don't know what else to say. The circuit is super simple and if you're getting full AC voltage from the transformer, then you should see full DC voltage at the test point.
[quoted image]
TP2 increases under load. With J3 and J1 unplugged I only get 175 VDC is that somehow a factor ?
Quoted from sparky672:I don't know what else to say. The circuit is super simple and if you're getting full AC voltage from the transformer, then you should see full DC voltage at the test point.
[quoted image]
Quoted from sparky672:Where exactly are you putting the other DMM lead when testing DC voltage at TP2 ?
I don't get a constant reading on the resistor at TP2. I assumed it was flux giving it a bad connection but it just changes constantly. Could that be the issue ?
Quoted from sparky672:I don't know what else to say. The circuit is super simple and if you're getting full AC voltage from the transformer, then you should see full DC voltage at the test point.
[quoted image]
I just read this in another post on pinside on A bally as-2518 180vdc is fine, it will increase under load. Ken, he's referring to the rectifier board, not the solenoid driver board.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:TP2 increases under load. With J3 and J1 unplugged I only get 175 VDC is that somehow a factor ?
I am not a Stern guy, but I would think that the test points would have a specific test procedure associated with them. What does the manual say to do regarding taking these readings?
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I don't get a constant reading on the resistor at TP2. I assumed it was flux giving it a bad connection but it just changes constantly.
Just looking at the circuit, without capacitors, you're not getting smooth DC at TP2...
output-wave-forms-of-full-wave-rectifier-1 (resized).jpg
Top shows the 60 Hz AC sine wave coming out of your transformer.
Bottom shows the pulsating "DC" coming out of your "full-wave bridge" rectifier, oscillating between zero and full voltage 120 times per second.
Short answer: What you're reading depends on the quality of your DMM...
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/572935
(for kicks, you could try reading TP2 using the AC scale)
just a suggestion, put your boards back in, all your connectors back on and tell us what happens?
i wouldn't be too fussed with the low HV reading, wait and see if your game boots up, goes into attract mode and displays come on and then check test points 2 and 4 on the solenoid driver board.
Quoted from Rikoshay:just a suggestion, put your boards back in, all your connectors back on and tell us what happens?
i wouldn't be too fussed with the low HV reading, wait and see if your game boots up, goes into attract mode and displays come on and then check test points 2 and 4 on the solenoid driver board.
Yep!
Quoted from sparky672:I would not worry so much about +/- 10 VAC variation right now.
If you should have 230 VDC when the transformer is putting out 173 VAC, then a little more (183 VAC) should give you a little more than 230 VDC... not less.
This is exactly it. This is worth re-posting. Follow this advice. Don't get spun around chasing problems that do not likely exist. This is the 4th or 5th time in this thread where a problem is not present. AC Voltage variation on RARE occasion, could be a "booting" issue BUT, that would ONLY be in the case of a low 5VDC/12VDC logic voltage or. the sol. voltage not being present, not making the "7th flash" on the MPU.
All of THOSE potential issues should initially be tested for at the MPU, much further down the electronic circuit. Once you test there, you should work your way backwards to track down the underlying issue. It's a LOT harder (and much more time consuming) to work in the opposite direction when trying to solve a pinball machine problem.
To reiterate, A SLIGHT VOLTAGE VARIATION anywhere BESIDES the logic voltage in the game is HARDLY EVER the cause of a game NOT WORKING or NOT BOOTING. In actuality, UNREGULATED AC voltages like we are dealing with here, often vary WIDELY and are not required to be precise. LOGIC voltages would be the exception to that.
Regarding that:
You only need 3 voltages to get the MPU/game to boot.
+5VDC +12VDC and ~(about) +43VDC (solenoid vol.)
-->You actually only need two (+5 and +12) to get to "6 flashes".
If those 3 voltages are present and stable and the game is not booting, you almost certainly have a bad MPU.
As long as you are not blowing fuses any longer, I would put everything back in the game and if it's not booting, check for voltages @ the MPU and see what you do HAVE are what you are MISSING (lower LEFT connector@mpu has all of these DC voltages.
(For those tests, the black multi-meter probe can be placed on the ground braid in the head and the red probe to probe each pin @ that MPU connector) and post what DC voltages you see there and what ones you don't see there. It's hard to get some probes in there and you may need to use a small paperclip to efficiently test this... (be careful). You can then work backwards from there, more efficiently figuring out where the "non booting" issue resides.
If you approach it from the other direction "checking everything for a slight anything" you might never find the problem because your starting point is VERY wide. Also, posting a bunch of pictures is rarely going to solve much. I understand why people suggest it but, it will typically only be a distraction and is likely to make it harder to efficiently find the actual issue.
Quoted from sparky672:I am not a Stern guy, but I would think that the test points would have a specific test procedure associated with them. What does the manual say to do regarding taking these readings?
Just looking at the circuit, without capacitors, you're not getting smooth DC at TP2...
[quoted image]
Top shows the 60 Hz AC sine wave coming out of your transformer.
Bottom shows the pulsating "DC" coming out of your "full-wave bridge" rectifier, oscillating between zero and full voltage 120 times per second.
Short answer: What you're reading depends on the quality of your DMM...
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/572935
(for kicks, you could try reading TP2 using the AC scale)
I did check the voltage at TP2 for kicks but I dont understand it at all. On the AC 200 volts scale it vacillates between .6 and .7.
I understand the two scales and the fact that line voltage is going to follow a 60hz sine curve. I definitely understand that after rectification its going to look like the second curve. I am guessing that you are saying that if i had a good fluke multimeter it would read a constant rating of an average of that second curve.
Quoted from sparky672:I am not a Stern guy, but I would think that the test points would have a specific test procedure associated with them. What does the manual say to do regarding taking these readings?
I looked in the Split Second manual and there is nothing. I looked on Clays site and Pinwiki and couldn't find anything there either.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I am guessing that you are saying that if i had a good fluke multimeter it would read a constant rating of an average of that second curve.
Actually a good meter might read RMS, and a cheap meter might read the average. But basically the idea is that you are not going to read the pulsating DC the same as you're reading the AC, which is RMS.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I looked in the Split Second manual and there is nothing. I looked on Clays site and Pinwiki and couldn't find anything there either.
TP2, IMHO, is not a great test point given the pulsating DC that must be measured. At this point, I'd verify the four diodes and resistor, and their connections (you did all this already), and just move on.
Like others stated more recently, we've beaten this horse to death.
Quoted from Rikoshay:just a suggestion, put your boards back in, all your connectors back on and tell us what happens?
i wouldn't be too fussed with the low HV reading, wait and see if your game boots up, goes into attract mode and displays come on and then check test points 2 and 4 on the solenoid driver board.
On boot up with all the connectors in the machine installed the beeps and the led flashes dont match in number.
I get 6 LED Flashes. Two with a long pause and then 4 more. The final result is that the LED is dark. The pause is so long it seems like it is hanging and rebooting again.
I get 5 beeps with a very long pause and then I get 8 more beeps. The final beep is ongoing.
Quoted from Rikoshay:just a suggestion, put your boards back in, all your connectors back on and tell us what happens?
i wouldn't be too fussed with the low HV reading, wait and see if your game boots up, goes into attract mode and displays come on and then check test points 2 and 4 on the solenoid driver board.
On the solenoid driver board I get tp2 =191VDC and tp4=235VDC.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:On the solenoid driver board I get tp2 =191VDC and tp4=235VDC.
That's perfect and in spec. Move to fixing the mpu.
MPU is issue. Sounds like 6 flashes… correct? Usually means you are missing 43VDC at the connector on the MPU that I mentioned in my post above.
to get your correct flash sequence then the LED go dull you only need J4 on the mpu connected.
you sound so close by your description that it sounds like J4 may need repining and or the header cleaned but ideally replaced.
Quoted from snyper2099:This is exactly it. This is worth re-posting. Follow this advice. Don't get spun around chasing problems that do not likely exist. This is the 4th or 5th time in this thread where a problem is not present. AC Voltage variation on RARE occasion, could be a "booting" issue BUT, that would ONLY be in the case of a low 5VDC/12VDC logic voltage or. the sol. voltage not being present, not making the "7th flash" on the MPU.
All of THOSE potential issues should initially be tested for at the MPU, much further down the electronic circuit. Once you test there, you should work your way backwards to track down the underlying issue. It's a LOT harder (and much more time consuming) to work in the opposite direction when trying to solve a pinball machine problem.
To reiterate, A SLIGHT VOLTAGE VARIATION anywhere BESIDES the logic voltage in the game is HARDLY EVER the cause of a game NOT WORKING or NOT BOOTING. In actuality, UNREGULATED AC voltages like we are dealing with here, often vary WIDELY and are not required to be precise. LOGIC voltages would be the exception to that.
Regarding that:
You only need 3 voltages to get the MPU/game to boot.
+5VDC +12VDC and ~(about) +43VDC (solenoid vol.)
-->You actually only need two (+5 and +12) to get to "6 flashes".
If those 3 voltages are present and stable and the game is not booting, you almost certainly have a bad MPU.
As long as you are not blowing fuses any longer, I would put everything back in the game and if it's not booting, check for voltages @ the MPU and see what you do HAVE are what you are MISSING (lower LEFT connector@mpu has all of these DC voltages.
(For those tests, the black multi-meter probe can be placed on the ground braid in the head and the red probe to probe each pin @ that MPU connector) and post what DC voltages you see there and what ones you don't see there. It's hard to get some probes in there and you may need to use a small paperclip to efficiently test this... (be careful). You can then work backwards from there, more efficiently figuring out where the "non booting" issue resides.
If you approach it from the other direction "checking everything for a slight anything" you might never find the problem because your starting point is VERY wide. Also, posting a bunch of pictures is rarely going to solve much. I understand why people suggest it but, it will typically only be a distraction and is likely to make it harder to efficiently find the actual issue.
These are the DC Volts that i measured on the connector at J4 on the MPU board J4 1 on bottom 19 on top as placed in the machine.
J4Pin1 4.6VDC
J4Pin2 4.6VDC
J4Pin3 4.6VDC
J4Pin4 4.6VDC
J4Pin5 .7VDC
J4Pin6 .7VDC
J4Pin7 .7VDC
J4Pin8 .7VDC
J4Pin9 no wire in the female connector
J4Pin10 1.3VDC
J4Pin11 0VDC
J4Pin12 12.9 VDC
J4pin13 0 VDC
J4Pin14 Key
J4Pin15 0 VDC
J4Pin16 4.9 VDC
J4Pin17 4.9 VDC
J4Pin18 O VDC
J4Pin19 0 VDC
Test Points on the MPU Board
TP1=4.9
TP2=11.7
TP3=0
TP4=0
TP5=4.9
The Results should be:
TP1 = +5 vdc
TP2 = +11.9 vdc
TP3 = +21.5 vdc (comes from +43 vdc solenoid voltage)
TP4 = Ground
TP5 = +5 vdc
i'm sorry but I can't help with the voltages.
i'd be checking the rear of the mpu board at all the headers for any dry joints, or if in doubt reflow them with solder.
you could also post 1 clear pic of each header
with only J4 connected is the LED flash sequence still erratic?
Quoted from Rikoshay:i'm sorry but I can't help with the voltages.
i'd be checking the rear of the mpu board at all the headers for any dry joints, or if in doubt reflow them with solder.
you could also post 1 clear pic of each header
with only J4 connected is the LED flash sequence still erratic?
I will reflow all of them. Do you want pics of front and back pic of each header?
Quoted from MarkAnderson:These are the DC Volts that i measured on the connector at J4 on the MPU board J4 1 on bottom 19 on top as placed in the machine.
J4Pin1 4.6VDC
J4Pin2 4.6VDC
J4Pin3 4.6VDC
J4Pin4 4.6VDC
J4Pin5 .7VDC
J4Pin6 .7VDC
J4Pin7 .7VDC
J4Pin8 .7VDC
J4Pin9 no wire in the female connector
J4Pin10 1.3VDC
J4Pin11 0VDC
J4Pin12 12.9 VDC
J4pin13 0 VDC
J4Pin14 Key
J4Pin15 0 VDC
J4Pin16 4.9 VDC
J4Pin17 4.9 VDC
J4Pin18 O VDC
J4Pin19 0 VDC
Test Points on the MPU Board
TP1=4.9
TP2=11.7
TP3=0
TP4=0
TP5=4.9
The Results should be:
TP1 = +5 vdc
TP2 = +11.9 vdc
TP3 = +21.5 vdc (comes from +43 vdc solenoid voltage)
TP4 = Ground
TP5 = +5 vdc
Yup. You are just missing 43VDC and that prevents getting the final flash and boot on the MPU. Now, see if you have it at the test point on the rectifier board. This is what I meant by “working backwards”.
If the fuse is blown, you will either have an issue with a shorted something (solenoid on driver board) or, something on the playfield tripping it.
At that point, it’s time to build a resettable relay so you don’t kill 50 fuses. You can reset it until you are certain you tracked down the issue then use a fuse once everything is working perfectly.
Quoted from snyper2099:Yup. You are just missing 43VDC and that prevents getting the final flash and boot on the MPU. Now, see if you have it at the test point on the rectifier board. This is what I meant by “working backwards”.
If the fuse is blown, you will either have an issue with a shorted something (solenoid on driver board) or, something on the playfield tripping it.
At that point, it’s time to build a resettable relay so you don’t kill 50 fuses. You can reset it until you are certain you tracked down the issue then use a fuse once everything is working perfectly.
I get the working backwards part. I was missing 43VDC at TP4. Fuse 4 was bad but it was 5amps. Manual says it should be 7 amp fast blow. Originally I put a 5 in as it was labeled 5 on the new weebly board. I already have a resettable relay made when watching Clays tools you need for pinball repair video. I am going to try the 7 first and replace it with the relay when it blows. I have many 7 fuses.
Quoted from snyper2099:Yup. You are just missing 43VDC and that prevents getting the final flash and boot on the MPU. Now, see if you have it at the test point on the rectifier board. This is what I meant by “working backwards”.
If the fuse is blown, you will either have an issue with a shorted something (solenoid on driver board) or, something on the playfield tripping it.
At that point, it’s time to build a resettable relay so you don’t kill 50 fuses. You can reset it until you are certain you tracked down the issue then use a fuse once everything is working perfectly.
For Clairification for future games you are saying work your way backwards from a point but it is still important to start at the wall to see if there are any issues getting from the wall the the rectifier board. If you have 5v 12 v and 43v then start at the MPU and work backwards. Is that correct?
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I will reflow all of them. Do you want pics of front and back pic of each header?
MPU j4 front and back
MPU J3 front and back
PXL_20230401_190707043 (resized).jpgPXL_20230401_190728148 (resized).jpg
PXL_20230401_190756457 (resized).jpgPXL_20230401_190812467 (resized).jpgI believe I can see cracks in the solder around pins 1, 2, & 6.
I suggest reflowing the solder at the rear of J4.
Touch the solder with the tip of iron and you will see it change colour/melt, at this point just add a tiny amount of solder whilst drawing your soldering iron tip upwards on the pin, that's my suggestion.
the 43VDC comes in on J4 pin 15, you could test here with the meter set to higher than 43VDC and put the black probe to ground and red probe in the back of the J4 connector pin 15.
also you could check TP3 on the MPU, bottom left, for about 21-22VDC, same way, black probe to ground, red probe to test point.
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