Split Second
Stern Electronics, 1981Quoted from sparky672:According to your schematic, what circuit is Fuse 1 protecting, and does it verify as 10-amp?
Bridge rectifier 1. Goes to feature lamp bus which is interesting because that was missing on j2-3 connector. Feature lamp bus j1-3, j1-7, j3-6.
Also interesting the feature lamps never have worked since I bought the machine.
The FUSE in the schematic calls for a 10 amp fuse and the blown fuse was a brand new 10 amp FUSE.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:We bypassed the switch yesterday. I have 127vac when I test across j2 pin6 to j2 pin 7.
When I connect
Tp 5 4.4dcv
Tp3 11dcv
Tp1 0 dcv
Tp2 15 dcv
Tp4 6.5 acv
can you post a pic of the top of the switch? - bypassed switch. white from line connected to blue white, black from line connected to yellow.
If you are still using the original game mains lead that is connected to the filter (on the side of the cab) then to the on/off switch there is a chance the filter is damaged. On the LOAD side of the filter do you get the same as the LINE side? Mains side and filter side the same.
From the filter the mains goes to the switch you are possibly having an issue with. Being careful at all times, making changes with the power off, you can jumper the switch terminals, from the switch the wires go to J2 pins 6 & 7. Here you can check the test points, with J1 and J3 unplugged IMO. Just confirm you have all the correct voltages on the rectifier board. I get 129 vac here.
Are you unsure if all the wires going to the 3 plugs that connect to the headers are correct?
I am sure that 95% of the wires are correct. When I bought the game 1/3 of the wires were removed from the connectors .Some of those were soldered directly to the pins. Others were soldered to the back of the rectifier board on top of the wires from the transformer. I would imagine there are a couple of wires that are in the wrong connectors.
your TP5, is that a typo, should be at about 44VDC
TP2 is for your displays and too low.
I'm fine with you not doing it, but can you connect J2 only and check test points?
For wire colours, this should be close: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1580/Stern_1979_Meteor_Schematics.pdf
Quoted from Rikoshay:your TP5, is that a typo, should be at about 44VDC
TP2 is for your displays and too low.
I'm fine with you not doing it, but can you connect J2 only and check test points?
For wire colours, this should be close: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1580/Stern_1979_Meteor_Schematics.pdf
Tp5 is as read.
Quoted from Rikoshay:your TP5, is that a typo, should be at about 44VDC
TP2 is for your displays and too low.
I'm fine with you not doing it, but can you connect J2 only and check test points?
For wire colours, this should be close: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1580/Stern_1979_Meteor_Schematics.pdf
This is the same schematic that I have been using. I suppose they uploaded the same schematic for all stern classics.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:Tp5 is as read.
TP1 6.02 vdc
TP2 147 vdc
TP3 10.74 vdc
TP4 6.6 vac
TP5 44.1 vac
Quoted from MarkAnderson:Bridge rectifier 1. ....
The FUSE in the schematic calls for a 10 amp fuse and the blown fuse was a brand new 10 amp FUSE.
Suspect a major problem, short, in Bridge Rectifier 1 if the 10-amp fuse immediately pops. Surely, this is the root of all of this....
Quoted from MarkAnderson:Goes to feature lamp bus which is interesting because that was missing on j2-3 connector. Feature lamp bus j1-3, j1-7, j3-6.
Also interesting the feature lamps never have worked since I bought the machine.
Well, there you go.
Quoted from sparky672:Suspect a major problem, short, in Bridge Rectifier 1 if the 10-amp fuse immediately pops. Surely, this is the root of all of this....
Well, there you go.
How do I find out what is making fuse 1 blow when I connect j1 and j2 and j3 to the rectifier board. J1 is what triggers the fuse blow.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:How do I find out what is making fuse 1 blow when I connect j1 and j2 and j3 to the rectifier board. J1 is what triggers the fuse blow.
You'll need the schematic of the rectifier board. Then start at the J1 header working your way through testing each of the components. At 10 amps, surely something is shorted to ground.
I cannot be more specific because I do not have one here, nor do I have the schematic.
in post 152 TP is at 4.4 VDC which is your solenoid voltage. Doesn't matter, your readings at the Test Points are okay except TP 5 should be DC.
So J1 is your playfield, and your switched lamps.
Somewhere, at least one part of the power side is shorting to ground.
Ideally you'd have a 10A circuit breaker to save going through fuses: Circuit Breaker Overload Protector Switch Fuse 3A 4A 5A 6A 8A 10A 15A 20A 30&ex Ebay.
Solder a dead fuse across the spade terminals.
Follow where your switched illumination joins to the playfield and look for a lamp body touching something it shouldn't, and vice versa.
J1 pin7, looking to be Blue. It is the common for all your switched lamps, it's soldered to the bases of the switched lamp holders
Quoted from Rikoshay:in post 152 TP is at 4.4 VDC which is your solenoid voltage. Doesn't matter, your readings at the Test Points are okay except TP 5 should be DC.
So J1 is your playfield, and your switched lamps.
Somewhere, at least one part of the power side is shorting to ground.
Ideally you'd have a 10A circuit breaker to save going through fuses: Circuit Breaker Overload Protector Switch Fuse 3A 4A 5A 6A 8A 10A 15A 20A 30&ex Ebay.
Solder a dead fuse across the spade terminals.
Follow where your switched illumination joins to the playfield and look for a lamp body touching something it shouldn't, and vice versa.
J1 pin7, looking to be Blue. It is the common for all your switched lamps, it's soldered to the bases of the switched lamp holders
I installed my 10 A circuit breaker.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I installed my 10 A circuit breaker.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I installed my 10 A circuit breaker.
I may have found the issue I am not sure. Its not on the playfield. On J1 connector the schematic shows 1 red, 2 open, 3 Feature Lamp bus(color is not designated but when I look at other feature lamp bus it shows blue), 4 key, 5 Open, 6 Blue-white solenoid bus, 7 blue feature lamp bus,8 general illumination bus. I replaced the connectors and I followed the previous wiring and the schematic but when there was a discrepancy I followed the way it had been wired as opposed to the schematic assuming it must have worked prior to some issue. Currently the connector is as follows
1 red, 2 open, 3 open, 4 key, 5 blue,6 blue white, 7 blue, 8 white.
The ones that match the schematic are
1, 2, 4,6,8.
If 3 or 7 wires are in the wrong connector position I would imagine that could be my issue. In terms of the schematic It is definitely wired incorrectly.
I have a Catacomb Schematic. I am going to look at it to see if it gives me any clues. If that does not work where else should I look?
If this is not the issue is there a technique I can use to find the lamp socket grounding out on something that it shouldn't I have spent a couple hours looking and I am not finding anything.
I looked at Catacomb. The descriptions are more complete. GOTTLIEB, Bally and Williams have wire color charts is there a classic stern wire color charts anywhere ? I will go look at my Catacom to see if I can identify wire colors from it's wiring.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I looked at Catacomb. The descriptions are more complete. GOTTLIEB, Bally and Williams have wire color charts is there a classic stern wire color charts anywhere ? I will go look at my Catacom to see if I can identify wire colors from it's wiring.
Oh lord my Catacomb is more hacked than Split second the irony is that it worked for 10 years. The entire Catacomb playfield set of wires is soldered to the back of the rectifier board. 
Thank you I appreciate your help and input.
Thank you for the stern wiring diagram for the connectors to the rectifier board. My gut tells me that it will solve my problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rectifier-board-j3-pinout-paragon#post-7478210
I think that this one will give me a list of controlled lamps that I can inspect and check off if If the wiring issue does not solve my problem.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Stern_Split_Second_Tech_Chart.pdf
My frustrated rampage you can skip this its not really relevant.
In the past I used to purchase a machine and if it wasnt working I would not try to get any information from the buyer. Now I feel like I should have a list of questions from every seller that I ask after i have given them the money So I get honest answers and not the bs about everything was working fine it must have been a fuse. I know that this machine was purchased new. It was in a multimillion dollar house on the most expensive lake lot in Minnetonka MN. Their neighbors were the Pillsbury family. It obviously worked the owner died and I bet that they hire some hack that made things worse and then finally gave up and they sold it to me after it had been screwed up by a hacker Pinball tech.
GI is on no mpu beeps. I still have not solved the errors in wire coloration but I have made progress. Fuse 1 is not shorting out I think it is because I removed the blue wire from j1-5.
1. On connector j1 I have an extra blue wire in the bundle that does not have a home in the connector.
2. On connector j2 blue white is in position 7 but I think that is ok because it is listed as white in the schematic and white comes in from the line and when it connects at the switch (which is bypassed at the moment) It becomes blue/white.
3. On connector J3 all are correct except j3-12 is shown as having a white / yellow wire. There is no white / yellow wire in the bundle coming from the backbox. I looked through all the connections in the schematic for the backbox and I dont find any white / yellow wires. On the Catacomb schematic 12 is described as zero crossing input A4-J4 -15 or 16. I will look at it tomorrow.
I checked the test points When I check I ground the meter to the ground braid is that correct or do I ground to the leg of the large ceramic resistor?
1. 18.4 vdc
2. 0 VDC set on range of 200 and then 750
3. 0 VDC
4. 126 VAC
5. 0 VDC.
Any thoughts? Sparky told me to request a schematic for the rectifier board from Weebly so I requested one from him via email.
I quit looking for a light socket rubbing on ground because the fuse stopped blowing.
j1 (resized).jpgj2 (resized).jpgj3 (resized).jpgQuoted from MarkAnderson:TP1 6.02 vdc
TP2 147 vdc
TP3 10.74 vdc
TP4 6.6 vac
TP5 44.1 vac
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I checked the test points When I check I ground the meter to the ground braid is that correct or do I ground to the leg of the large ceramic resistor?
1. 18.4 vdc
2. 0 VDC set on range of 200 and then 750
3. 0 VDC
4. 126 VAC
5. 0 VDC.
What happened between first test and this one? There's something really amiss between the 2 if all you had to do was repair the display voltage winding on the transformer.
Ground braid in the cab is fine, you can also use the large resistor's ground side if you prefer.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:It obviously worked the owner died and I bet that they hire some hack that made things worse and then finally gave up and they sold it to me after it had been screwed up by a hacker Pinball tech.
I would not make these assumptions. My advice is to never under estimate or over estimate anyone's technical knowhow or skillset. The work in the posted pictures on the first page make sense and were done by someone that wanted to get the game running quickly but, also fully understood exactly what they were doing.
Trust me, I understand the want and desire to resolve these things yourself. But, it's going on two months now. To be candid and honest, you should ask someone you trust who has more experience to give you a visit and help you. The things you have resolved that have taken a long time with countless postings of test results could have been quickly addressed and resolved, with a single technical visit within an hour or two... Do you have someone you could ask to stop out and lend a hand perhaps? I would do it for free if I was anywhere near you.
Quoted from snyper2099:I would not make these assumptions. My advice is to never under estimate or over estimate anyone's technical knowhow or skillset. The work in the posted pictures on the first page make sense and were done by someone that wanted to get the game running quickly but, also fully understood exactly what they were doing.
Trust me, I understand the want and desire to resolve these things yourself. But, it's going on two months now. To be candid and honest, you should ask someone you trust who has more experience to give you a visit and help you. The things you have resolved that have taken a long time with countless postings of test results could have been quickly addressed and resolved, with a single technical visit within an hour or two... Do you have someone you could ask to stop out and lend a hand perhaps? I would do it for free if I was anywhere near you.
I don't.
ahhhh, the joys of pinball.
it's nice if there's a quick fix and everything is sorted.
personally the MOV and the line filter should be replaced along with an on/off switch, and maybe a new mains cable before proceeding.
then the transformer, check all voltages, then check all wiring. there shouldn't be any spare/leftover wires unless a hack was done, if so you need to undo this.
a pic of each of your rectifier connectors would help before proceeding, just one of each showing what wires you have going into what slots.
this is why i suggested connecting only J2 and then checking the test points, as mentioned you can't assume anything is okay with a pinball because of who you purchased it from or where it came from, unless maybe if it's a close mate.
i'm happy to stay out of this if you don't like my suggestions, but going ahead and connecting the 3 connectors lead to another problem that could have been avoided. It's slow and steady that wins the race.......unless you've got a fully blown twin turbo top fueler with nitrous?
Quoted from Rikoshay:ahhhh, the joys of pinball.
it's nice if there's a quick fix and everything is sorted.
personally the MOV and the line filter should be replaced along with an on/off switch, and maybe a new mains cable before proceeding.
then the transformer, check all voltages, then check all wiring. there shouldn't be any spare/leftover wires unless a hack was done, if so you need to undo this.
a pic of each of your rectifier connectors would help before proceeding, just one of each showing what wires you have going into what slots.
this is why i suggested connecting only J2 and then checking the test points, as mentioned you can't assume anything is okay with a pinball because of who you purchased it from or where it came from, unless maybe if it's a close mate.
i'm happy to stay out of this if you don't like my suggestions, but going ahead and connecting the 3 connectors lead to another problem that could have been avoided. It's slow and steady that wins the race.......unless you've got a fully blown twin turbo top fueler with nitrous?
I like your suggestions and I am happy for the help.
Quoted from slochar:What happened between first test and this one? There's something really amiss between the 2 if all you had to do was repair the display voltage winding on the transformer.
Ground braid in the cab is fine, you can also use the large resistor's ground side if you prefer.
I was using a burned connector at the time that obviously worked but was loaded with carbon build up so I replaced the connector and pins. It seems obvious that it must be the issue but I'm not seeing it at the moment.
Quoted from Rikoshay:ahhhh, the joys of pinball.
it's nice if there's a quick fix and everything is sorted.
personally the MOV and the line filter should be replaced along with an on/off switch, and maybe a new mains cable before proceeding.
then the transformer, check all voltages, then check all wiring. there shouldn't be any spare/leftover wires unless a hack was done, if so you need to undo this.
a pic of each of your rectifier connectors would help before proceeding, just one of each showing what wires you have going into what slots.
this is why i suggested connecting only J2 and then checking the test points, as mentioned you can't assume anything is okay with a pinball because of who you purchased it from or where it came from, unless maybe if it's a close mate.
i'm happy to stay out of this if you don't like my suggestions, but going ahead and connecting the 3 connectors lead to another problem that could have been avoided. It's slow and steady that wins the race.......unless you've got a fully blown twin turbo top fueler with nitrous?
I ordered a replacement power cord, metal oxide varistor and line filter. I will install them as soon as they arrive.
I thought I was having issues with my dmm because I was getting nothing at the wall on 750 vac scale. I started using a different dmm. The wall has no ground although the outlet has a physical hole for the ground. I tested both hot and neutral to ground at the wall and get nothing. I checked at wall, MOV, line filter and new switch. I get 120.4 at each test point.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:The wall has no ground although the outlet has a physical hole for the ground.
Time to call an electrician. Seriously. This is a very unsafe condition.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I tested both hot and neutral to ground at the wall and get nothing.
You are supposed to read zero volts from neutral to ground. You should never see voltage between neutral and ground on a properly wired outlet.
However, if you cannot read 110/120 VAC from hot to ground, you have a serious problem.
Verify your meter... do you read 110/120 VAC from hot to neutral?
Quoted from sparky672:Time to call an electrician. Seriously. This is a very unsafe condition.
You are supposed to read zero volts from neutral to ground. You should never see voltage between neutral and ground on a properly wired outlet.
However, if you cannot read 110/120 VAC from hot to ground, you have a serious problem.
Verify your meter... do you read 110/120 VAC from hot to neutral?
I will ground the one. I can't afford to have the whole house done. It's a 1926 knob and tube electricity.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I will ground the one. I can't afford to have the whole house done. It's a 1926 knob and tube electricity.
I get 0 from neutral to ground.
I get 121 from hot to ground
I get 121 from hot to neutral.
Quoted from Rikoshay:ahhhh, the joys of pinball.
it's nice if there's a quick fix and everything is sorted.
personally the MOV and the line filter should be replaced along with an on/off switch, and maybe a new mains cable before proceeding.
then the transformer, check all voltages, then check all wiring. there shouldn't be any spare/leftover wires unless a hack was done, if so you need to undo this.
a pic of each of your rectifier connectors would help before proceeding, just one of each showing what wires you have going into what slots.
this is why i suggested connecting only J2 and then checking the test points, as mentioned you can't assume anything is okay with a pinball because of who you purchased it from or where it came from, unless maybe if it's a close mate.
i'm happy to stay out of this if you don't like my suggestions, but going ahead and connecting the 3 connectors lead to another problem that could have been avoided. It's slow and steady that wins the race.......unless you've got a fully blown twin turbo top fueler with nitrous?
Here are the wires from the transformer soldered to
E1- E12 on the back of the rectifier board.
PXL_20230325_221028891 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221101737 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221128594 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221142310 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221153282 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221209532 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221222602 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221317103 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221352533 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221435712 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221448619 (resized).jpgPXL_20230325_221510182 (resized).jpgQuoted from MarkAnderson:I get 0 from neutral to ground.
I get 121 from hot to ground
I get 121 from hot to neutral.
Those are the expected readings.
119 vac on the connector J2 between yellow 6 and blue white 7.
Quoted from Rikoshay:ahhhh, the joys of pinball.
it's nice if there's a quick fix and everything is sorted.
personally the MOV and the line filter should be replaced along with an on/off switch, and maybe a new mains cable before proceeding.
then the transformer, check all voltages, then check all wiring. there shouldn't be any spare/leftover wires unless a hack was done, if so you need to undo this.
a pic of each of your rectifier connectors would help before proceeding, just one of each showing what wires you have going into what slots.
this is why i suggested connecting only J2 and then checking the test points, as mentioned you can't assume anything is okay with a pinball because of who you purchased it from or where it came from, unless maybe if it's a close mate.
i'm happy to stay out of this if you don't like my suggestions, but going ahead and connecting the 3 connectors lead to another problem that could have been avoided. It's slow and steady that wins the race.......unless you've got a fully blown twin turbo top fueler with nitrous?
I will go with slow and steady in the future. New MOV and line filter and mains cable ordered and on the way. Would you suggest my next steps testing the wires to ensure that I have the proper amounts going into the rectifier board? I definitely don't have the correct amount coming out.
I found the issue. The transformer was originally set up for 115v. The 115v had lugs 1 and 3 connected and 9 and 11 connected. To change to 120 the 9 to 11 connection needed to be removed and 5 needed to be connected to 7. Also the yellow wire from the board needed to be removed from 5 and connected to 7 which I did not do. So I am completing that now.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:I found the issue. The transformer was originally set up for 115v. The 115v had lugs 1 and 3 connected and 9 and 11 connected. To change to 120 the 9 to 11 connection needed to be removed and 5 needed to be connected to 7. Also the yellow wire from the board needed to be removed from 5 and connected to 7 which I did not do. So I am completing that now.
all good, I suggested this in post #49 about half way down.
without mean to sound like a prick, I get how such a long post can be confusing, but you may have saved some time reading it thoroughly?
regarding the pics i was wanting, a misunderstanding, but maybe a blessing?
i was wanting to see your connectors with the wires going in, to ensure J1, J2 & J3 are correct, but looking at the last lot of pics, well there is some fine soldering and some less desirable.
i suggest you remove all the solder splash, this being ANY excess solder other than what is on the wires going in the holes on the board before connecting anything else.
some may flick off, but ideally you would use a flux infused solder wick to remove them, IMO.
as keen as you may be, soldering is one skill you cannot rush.
the brown residue leftover from soldering is the flux from the solder. This can be removed with IPA (isopropyl alcohol). A must have IMO. Add some on a cotton bud or a rag and it will wash the flux off the board leaving it like new.
Quoted from Rikoshay:all good, I suggested this in post #49 about half way down.
without mean to sound like a prick, I get how such a long post can be confusing, but you may have saved some time reading it thoroughly?
You are not being a prick if you point out the fact that I missed something that you suggested.
sorry I don't know how I missed it.
i am going back over this because I am concerned that I missed something else beyond the yellow wire needing to be moved to lug 5.
Rikoshay --> you mention no wire to lug 7, looking at the manual for 16B-6 transformer, I see lugs 1 & 3 joined (AC RETURN) and lugs 5 & 7 joined (AC POWER) needed for mains of 120VAC. With 9 to 11 joined you should see slightly higher readings feeding 120VAC to a transformer jumpered for 115VAC.
Rikoshay --> as you mentioned your mains is 120VAC, i suggest removing jumper 9 to 11 and joining lugs 5 to 7, with the power off and unplugged from the wall.
also if you are doing this, you will need to move the yellow wire on lug 9 to lug 5 or 7.
again, be very careful when doing any of this.
Done on 3/26/2023
Rickoshay-->with that aside, I'm curious how you joined the mains and ground?
MarkAnderson--> I pulled an extra cord from another machine and put alligator clips on the mains and the return. I clipped the mains to lug 1 and the return to lug 5 and plugged the cord into the wall.
Rikoshay--> Is the transformer (lower panel assembly) out of the machine?
MarkAnderson-->I pulled the wood transformer panel out of the wall and I have to whole unit on the kitchen counter.
Rikoshay--> assuming it is, and with no plugs connected to the rec board, forget about applying power to J2 on the rec board, go directly to lugs 1 & 5.
MarkAnderson--> Done
Rikoshay--> With it now having the jumpers changed, 1 is tied to 3, and 5 is tied to 7.
MarkAnderson-->I did this but missed moving the yellow wire until now.
Rikoshay-->so your yellow wire is still pin 6 for J2 but going to lug 5 or 7, and pin 7 for J2 is still a white wire going to lugs 1 or 3. If this doesn't match with what you have can you please post a pic of your J2 plug before proceeding?
After changing the yellow wire to lug 5 my set up matches this with one exception. My wires are slightly different. I think that it is because mine is a stern 200 MPU. I traced the mains from the on off switch through the rec board to the transformer back to the rec and then to the switch. Black mains comes into the switch. The black mains is connected to the yellow mains. The yellow mains goes to pin 6 on the rec board. I followed the trace to connector E1 on the back of the board which is a red wire. The red wire goes to lug 1 on the transformer. The return is a yellow wire out of lug 5. The yellow wire connects to E2 on the rear of the rec board. Following the trace on the front it connnects to pin 7 which is blue and white on a stern mpu200. The blue and white wire connects to the white mains return wire at the switch.
The colors of my return wire is slightly different because my cpu is a Mpu 200. The wire that is white on stern mpu100 is blue white on mpu200. Also the knocker is in the body of the machine on mpu200 so there is no wite in connector 13. There is an additional Blue wire going into connector j1connector #3 because the Mpu 200 machines need more power in the 6VDC power rail for the playfield.
Rikshay-->with the new mains connected to the transformer, and your meter set to ACV, you should be able to test the winding pairs.
I will retest the winding pairs now.
450px-Stern-ta100-16b-6 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7478210_0 (resized).jpgif your connectors on your Split Second are wired the same as pics (thanks to @Quench) you should be fine to connect J2 for the time being as J2 has the mains coming in for the rectifier board, to the rectifier board and confirm all test points are within the expected range of voltages, remembering to take it easy and test for AC at TP4.
If you find your readings are off there is always the possibility your meter leads are at fault.
A simple test is to set your meter to the lowest ohms (resistance) setting and touch the probes together, which should result in an ideal zero ohms reading.
0.1-0.5 ohms IMO would be okay.
If you see say 5 ohms then IMO your leads need attention, the connection to the meter and/or the probes you are using. This resistance will result in false voltage readings as there will be a voltage drop due to the unwanted resistance.
and please tidy up the solder splashes, they can/may cause issues if not now but in the future.
regarding the pics i was wanting, a misunderstanding, but maybe a blessing?
i was wanting to see your connectors with the wires going in, to ensure J1, J2 & J3 are correct, but looking at the last lot of pics, well there is some fine soldering and some less desirable. Mostly less desirable I know.
i suggest you remove all the solder splash, this being ANY excess solder other than what is on the wires going in the holes on the board before connecting anything else.
some may flick off, but ideally you would use a flux infused solder wick to remove them, IMO.
as keen as you may be, soldering is one skill you cannot rush.
the brown residue leftover from soldering is the flux from the solder. This can be removed with IPA (isopropyl alcohol). A must have IMO. Add some on a cotton bud or a rag and it will wash the flux off the board leaving it like new.
Quoted from Rikoshay:if your connectors on your Split Second are wired the same as pics (thanks to Quench) you should be fine to connect J2 for the time being as J2 has the mains coming in for the rectifier board, to the rectifier board and confirm all test points are within the expected range of voltages, remembering to take it easy and test for AC at TP4.
If you find your readings are off there is always the possibility your meter leads are at fault.
A simple test is to set your meter to the lowest ohms (resistance) setting and touch the probes together, which should result in an ideal zero ohms reading.
0.1-0.5 ohms IMO would be okay.
If you see say 5 ohms then IMO your leads need attention, the connection to the meter and/or the probes you are using. This resistance will result in false voltage readings as there will be a voltage drop due to the unwanted resistance.
and please tidy up the solder splashes, they can/may cause issues if not now but in the future.
Thanks I will do that next. On the kitchen counter with mains coming in from the wall I have the following:
2 TO 6 I GET 50.1 vac SHOULD BE 49
17 TO 18 I get 6.6 vac SHOULD BE 7.3 vac
13 TO 14 vac I get 7.6 vac SHOULD BE 7.8
15 TO 16 vac IT IS 12 vac SHOULD BE 12
8 TOO 10 I get 182 vac SHOULD BE 173 Vac
Removed the Solder and the flux.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:... On the kitchen counter with mains coming in from the wall I have the following:
2 TO 6 I GET 50.1 vac SHOULD BE 49
17 TO 18 I get 6.6 vac SHOULD BE 7.3 vac
13 TO 14 vac I get 7.6 vac SHOULD BE 7.8
15 TO 16 vac IT IS 12 vac SHOULD BE 12
8 TOO 10 I get 182 vac SHOULD BE 173 Vac
Looks good.
Quoted from Rikoshay:if your connectors on your Split Second are wired the same as pics (thanks to Quench) you should be fine to connect J2 for the time being as J2 has the mains coming in for the rectifier board, to the rectifier board and confirm all test points are within the expected range of voltages, remembering to take it easy and test for AC at TP4.
If you find your readings are off there is always the possibility your meter leads are at fault.
A simple test is to set your meter to the lowest ohms (resistance) setting and touch the probes together, which should result in an ideal zero ohms reading.
0.1-0.5 ohms IMO would be okay.
If you see say 5 ohms then IMO your leads need attention, the connection to the meter and/or the probes you are using. This resistance will result in false voltage readings as there will be a voltage drop due to the unwanted resistance.
and please tidy up the solder splashes, they can/may cause issues if not now but in the future.
Connected J2 to the rectifier board plugged machine in and turned it on. Set DMM to 200oms and touched probes. Result was .02. Taking it easy on TP4 the results are as follows:
TP1=5.22 VDC on 20 DC scale
TP2=34.8 VDC on 200 scale on 700 scale results were 0
TP3=3.4 VDC on 20 VDC scale
TP4=0 on VAC Scale
TP5=0 VDC on a 20VDC scale
Pulled all fuses and checked using continuity test on DMM.
Are the next steps turning off machine, removing the plug from the wall, checking continuity from transformer to corresponding pin or test point?
I would assume that I am looking for a short or a soldered connection that is not making an electrical connection.
Quoted from MarkAnderson:Connected J2 to the rectifier board plugged machine in and turned it on. Set DMM to 200oms and touched probes. Result was .02. Taking it easy on TP4 the results are as follows:
TP1=5.22 VDC on 20 DC scale
TP2=34.8 VDC on 200 scale on 700 scale results were 0
TP3=3.4 VDC on 20 VDC scale
TP4=0 on VAC Scale
TP5=0 VDC on a 20VDC scale
Pulled all fuses and checked using continuity test on DMM.
Are the next steps turning off machine, removing the plug from the wall, checking continuity from transformer to corresponding pin or test point?
I would assume that I am looking for a short or a soldered connection that is not making an electrical connection.
inspected soldering and connections with lit watch lenses.
found bent fuse clip on fuse 6 rebent it.
Test point results are as follows:
TP1=12.33 VDC Should be approximately +5.4VDC
TP2=174 VDC Should be approx 230 VDC.
TP3=14.04 VDC Should be approx 12 VDC
TP4=7.0 VAC Should be approx 7.3 VAC
TP5=45 VDC Should be approx 43 VDC
Quoted from MarkAnderson:inspected soldering and connections with lit watch lenses.
found bent fuse clip on fuse 6 rebent it.
Test point results are as follows:
TP1=12.33 VDC Should be approximately +5.4VDC (too high)
TP2=174 VDC Should be approx 230 VDC (too low)
TP3=14.04 VDC Should be approx 11.9 VDC (close but a little high)
TP4=7.0 VAC Should be approx 6.3 VAC (this is ok)
TP5=45 VDC Should be approx 43 VDC (this is ok)I cant find any potential variances in voltage that will still be ok so I looked at that information for the Bally AS-2518 -18 and -49 transformers There information is as follows: +5.4 +/-.8VDC +230 +/-27.4VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC 7.3 +/-.9VAC +43 +/-5.4VDC
guessing a misunderstanding for your readings in post #191 and resistance. I was just suggesting how to see if there were any issues with your test leads.
post #192 voltage readings look great.
with the machine off connect the plugs to J1 & J3 and hopefully she boots into attract mode.
if not and there is an issue, we'll tackle that next, otherwise enjoy playing your pin.
just to add, when turning her on, be at the ready with your fingers on the on/off switch.........if you hear a coil lock on be prepared to turn her off immediately
Quoted from Rikoshay:guessing a misunderstanding for your readings in post #191 and resistance. I was just suggesting how to see if there were any issues with your test leads.
post #192 voltage readings look great.
with the machine off connect the plugs to J1 & J3 and hopefully she boots into attract mode.
if not and there is an issue, we'll tackle that next, otherwise enjoy playing your pin.
i think that I understood you. I tested the leads because i question my DMM but I suppose since i have two of them and have been getting questionable readings on both of them I should probably conclude the issue might be with the person holding the leads. 
Quoted from Rikoshay:just to add, when turning her on, be at the ready with your fingers on the on/off switch.........if you hear a coil lock on be prepared to turn her off immediately
No Coil lock on. GI is lit. The MPU Flashes quickly once on boot up and then goes off. Displays are not lit at all. I dont think that I even have one flash. I think that I am getting the initial flicker then nothing after that. I removed all connectors to the mpu200 board except j4. At that point I got 7 flashes.
Probably not relevant to the boot up issue but looking at the voltage regulator/solenoid driver board I notice that both capacitors on the power board are the originals. I tested both caps. The 11,000 mfd at 20 volt blue filter capacitor returned 13780uF ESR .15ohms. The capacitor under the safety plastic returned 169.5uF ESR=.25Ohms
Quoted from MarkAnderson:No Coil lock on. GI is lit. The MPU Flashes quickly once on boot up and then goes off. Displays are not lit at all. I dont think that I even have one flash. I think that I am getting the initial flicker then nothing after that. I removed all connectors to the mpu200 board except j4. At that point I got 7 flashes.
Probably not relevant to the boot up issue but looking at the voltage regulator/solenoid driver board I notice that both capacitors on the power board are the originals. I tested both caps. The 11,000 mfd at 20 volt blue filter capacitor returned 13780uF ESR .15ohms. The capacitor under the safety plastic returned 169.5uF ESR=.25Ohms
Shut it off after leaving it sit for an hour. Currently won't turn on. 120vac leaving the switch. 120 at connectors 6 and 7. All 7 fuses have continuity.
Tp1=2.4vdc
TP2=33VDC
TP3=2.56VDC
TP4=0VAC
TP5=0VAC
How is this possible with all of these Voltage changes at each of the testing points? You need to recheck all of your soldering work on the rectifier board. Be 100% sure your solders are solid on both sides! Especially your bridge rectifier and fuse clips.
Quoted from vdojaq:How is this possible with all of these Voltage changes at each of the testing points? You need to recheck all of your soldering work on the rectifier board. Be 100% sure your solders are solid on both sides! Especially your bridge rectifier and fuse clips.
Yeah... I have to agree. And I'm honestly having a hard time following along. One minute, all voltages test good and the next minute, some are zero. This machine definitely has something loose or broken, probably hidden inside of heat shrink or tape.
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