This is on my Metallica but I left it general as I'm assuming these boards go across multiple games. Last night my Snake eject stopped working. I tested the switch and it wasn't registering in switch test. After further investigation I also found that the left spinner and the trough Jam switches weren't working. This equates to the whole row (shown below).

Any ideas on how to fix this or do I need to buy a new board? Really hopping to it's fixable without a new board as those look to be stupid expensive...

met (resized).jpg

Did some more testing and I think the part below is the problem (diode?).

I tested all of the ones in this picture and only D3 didn't show a reading with positive on the left and neg on the right. Reversed it had the same reading as the rest of them.

Do you agree this is the problem part? Anyone know the part number for these? Looks like it is replaceable with a steady hand. I have a soldier sucker and a good iron. I've replaced several battery holders on Williams boards so hopefully I can do this.

***edit*** forgot to add the picture.

met d (resized).jpg

Thanks. That helps. I tied my volt meter into the connector at the board and started testing the 3 switches. None of them showed a closed loop. I found this junction under the PF and if I tied the top lug to the Jam and spinner switches they showed to complete a circuit and the bottom lug completed to the snake switch. I then touched both ends of this to the connector in the backbox and neither completed a circuit. So it sounds like I have a broken wire somewhere between this junction and the back box, right?

I did the same test with the junction below it and it's corresponding switches and it completed a circuit at the back box.

Not sure how I'm going to find this wire without taking the whole loom apart but going to attempt that. hopefully this means the board is OK.

met2 (resized).jpg

Found a frayed wire and repaired it. Now get continuity at the terminals but all 3 switches are still dead.

Got it working yesterday

Re-seated the opto switch and hit the other switches with my soldier iron. Guess when I put one of them back on after testing them I didn't create a good joint as after doing this all the switches started working again.

Thanks everyone for your help. Super relieved it wasn't board after all.

Bummer, the whole column of switches went out again last night Back to the drawing board. I tested continuity to each wire so no new "frays" are present and they all transfer back to the board. Board is still working (jumped it by one column). Took the spinner off and it wont show continuity when depressed now. Jumped the diode and it did so it seems the switch is good and maybe the diode is bad. Going to replace both diodes under the PF when they come in tomm. Fingers crossed it's just a flaky diode now.

So gmkalos what is it that I'm wrong about here? Since you decided to go through all my recent post and down vote them all because I called you out for being an ass in another thread. Let's hear what is not factual about the above.

Yes, all other switches work correctly.

I'll give that a try as well. At this point I'm just shotgunning parts so started with the cheapest ones.

Not so sure it's the diode on the spinner anymore. While shopping out my new Tron I noticed the quorra spinner was identical to MET so I swapped them over to test. Still nothing

Good thought. I'll rein it tonight and give it a try. All the soldier joints look solid.

Dumb question. The through jam is the first switch which is on an opto board. Light is on but could that board be the problem? The other opto on that same board works fine.

Repinned the header pin on the board and it's working now, at least for 10 games or so. Fingers crossed that resolves the problem. Thanks for your help!