I used the same 5/16" e-clip mentioned... they were in the bag with the new flipper buttons I bought that are popping out just like the originals. If you're not having any trouble without slotting than no reason not to stick with it. If you lose an e-clip at some point though, try making a little slot for it.

I just got back from the location and added a slot around the lip using a .022 feeler gauge that had one edge ground into a file. I actually made this tool for guitar repair but it worked perfectly for this purpose and now the clip slots in and locks in place without any wiggle.

Had both coil stops on Deadpool blow up already.

Gold dust everywhere

Between buttons and coil stops, there is a lot that needs improved. I will say routinely I have replaced hundreds of flipper buttons and stops. Literally enough to buy another machine with.

Usually it's a leftover mould booger on button lip where it meets the housing. It's fine until the button rotates into position for the booger to catch the flipper button housing. You can trim it with an x-acto if you're dedicated.

It also can happen on flipper buttons that get a lot of use. The pressed end inside starts to wear, getting small enough to partially slip inside the hole of the housing and sticking. If that's your issue, putting an e-clip (harbor freght multipack FTW) on it will solve it.

Complain to stern
If people don't complain they will keep doing this

You guys remember people saying in the 1970's and 80's ,maybe 90's that games were only meant to last 5 years - Well Stern is making this happen! Your game will wear itself out in 5 -7 years and then you have to buy another new one..... I wonder if node boards will be readily available for your game in 10 years time?
How much more defective issues will people stomach before people have enough and stop buying. If they don't remedy issues and keep raising prices its the beginning of the end.
A friend just received their new AC/DC - flipper rubbers had already start to perish on the tip - screws missing from assemblies and NOT in the bottom of the game. Display not connected.

seems like they might go through different vendors... or possibly just bad batches.
I replaced 5 pop bumper brackets on my MMR, just guessing it's probably had 13,000 - 14,000 plays.
had two coils stops shatter on TNA with that gold dust all over the place.
Same thing with a new stern every now and then.

I don't mind that stuff, I'd much rather them re-engineer those EOS actuators, those things suck donkey balls.

Both of my tables with rapidly failing coil stops also have clearcoat issues Coincidence? Maybe.

Anyway, should I just stock up on PBL coil stops? That seems like the pro move.

Solid point. New DP Premium. 42k left flipper. 37k right flipper. Gold dusting hard on the right. New stops inbound.

All three coil stops on my Jurassic Park blew out in under 500 plays. Not sure when exactly since I wasn't at the location to know when they actually went. The button was completely separated from the bracket on two flippers (lower left and upper right) and was just loose on the other. Threw some new ones in... hopefully they last longer. The Pinball Life ones have typically done pretty well for me.

This has been the case on all my newest sterns. 5 munsters, 5 IM, 3 BK, 3JP. I’ve replaced virtually all the coilstops on these. Nothing new really, Has been a hit/miss issue for years. just seems to be more common recently for whatever reason

Anyone care to post the part number from Pinball Life so I can stock up on a few if needed.

Pretty easy to find but here’s a link...
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html

I have pretty much the exact same scenario on the JP at our club.

Hope you guys are reporting this to your distributors, Stern clearly got a bad batch or cut corners too far on the stops.

This coil stop problem is not a new issue. I remember running into it on Mustang several years ago and for some reason it keeps popping up again and again.

Do people ever convert to total wlms assys? Seems parts are cheaper and better built.

I definitely don’t believe that to be the case. Each mechanism has its issues and both will eventually require aftermarket parts, especially with heavy use.

The things I see problems with on Stern mechs are EOS switches that break, EOS switch pawls that break and coil stops that break but the latter has generally been better using parts from Pinball Life. Of course that could be dumb luck too, no idea really.

The things I see problems with on WPC style mechs are cranks that wear out very quickly (either the hole for the link gets super sloppy or the crank down hardware collapses on the bat shaft very easily—both of these problems seem related to metal that is too soft) and entire brackets that crack or shear at the coil stop end.

Wear and tear for things like plungers and stops, under normal circumstances, are normal between the two mech designs as best I can tell. I’d generally prefer to repair or replace the Stern parts for the above issues vs. WPC parts which are a bit more work to get apart and change. Cost is close enough that I don’t really care. I like the feel of WPC flippers better but that’s not down to solely the mechanism as Stern flippers function differently than WPC.

yes, I played a HEP LOTR that he converted over to WMS assemblies.

The new album making it's way up the charts...

coilstops.jpg

Jurassic Park premium, less than 200 plays in home use. At this point Stern should include a Pinball Life gift certificate in every goodie bag.

C8C1CB80-A592-4DC4-A873-A23AD3E21561 (resized).jpeg

This has been an issue for years....Stern is printing money right now, and spending time to fix this issue isn't really a priority to them.

Does Stern make their own coil stops? If not are they sourced differently than pinball life's coil stops?

Two good reasons to...

I don't think they can do that kind of metalwork in house.

Definitely. PBLs are tanks. I'm guessing Stern got a bad batch, and due to the size of batches they buy, it's taking forever to get through them. Until then, mum's the word! Even though hundreds of people have reported this issue. I'd call and ask for JP2 replacements, but what good are three more shitty ones?

The problem is they are not peened onto the bracket hard enough. The displaced metal that is mushroomed by the peening process is too light, and that thin amount of metal is giving way abnormally fast.

I'm thinking PinBall Life pays Stern to include all the bad parts so spend more $'s for replacement parts with them. Think of all the extra orders PBL gets for replacement Balls, sling rubbers, coil stops, etc...

you think replacing coil stops is bad...

have fun when you need to retap the bolts that hold the stops.

5 blown bolts in the past 2 months (JP2, BK3K, and EV3)

The last set of pictures really helped a newbie like me understand what to look for, and that replacing them is not a huge deal or very difficult (though annoying). Thanks folks.

What are you using to remove the bolts?

IMO it's worth buying a few coil stops just to have on hand. If one blows you can fix in 60 seconds. Eventually you'll need to replace them due to wear anyway, so either way it's not lost money.

Yup, just need a 5/16" nut driver or socket wrench, preferably with extension so you don't have to cram the head of the wrench down by the flipper mech, wires, etc. Socket wrench is easier since the bolts are torqued in pretty tight.

it's not just stern. Did you see the thread about someone posting, that showed all the stops on their JJP hobbit drop bank. Every single coil stop sheered off every bolt on the entire bank.

I hardly ever have to replace stops. Even on games 30 or 40 years old. The stops are rarely mushroomed. And if they are you can file down the edge. Usually in a rebuild, the only thing you have to do is clean the plunger and replace the sleeve. On rare occasions, the link gets worn out and needs to be replaced or the plunger mushrooms some. but not often.

yes, it's easy to buy replacements
BUT everyone with issues should contact Stern for replacements, whether you use them or not.
They need to be made aware the extent of the issue by requests for replacements.

Are these made in Chicago or overseas.?

Good call.

Drill and tap if they break off without enough left to back them out or pull through.

Such a PITA

No that really isn't how it works; this isn't flipper rubber.

Overseas.

So the QA is not greatly controlled.

Thanks

There is a guy in a cage that inspects all parts shipments before parts can hit the floor. But he is checking for tolerances and cosmetic things. Either he missed this or Stern knows about it and is just working through the order. Must have been a TON of bad stops. At this point there is no way Stern is not aware. But with such an inexpensive item I bet most people are just ordering replacements rather than calling Stern.