(Topic ID: 227794)

Stern's coil stops are worthless


By ryanwanger

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 98 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Multiballmaniac1
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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There are 98 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

I used the same 5/16" e-clip mentioned... they were in the bag with the new flipper buttons I bought that are popping out just like the originals. If you're not having any trouble without slotting than no reason not to stick with it. If you lose an e-clip at some point though, try making a little slot for it.

I just got back from the location and added a slot around the lip using a .022 feeler gauge that had one edge ground into a file. I actually made this tool for guitar repair but it worked perfectly for this purpose and now the clip slots in and locks in place without any wiggle.

#52 1 year ago

Had both coil stops on Deadpool blow up already.

Gold dust everywhere

#53 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Had both coil stops on Deadpool blow up already.
Gold dust everywhere

Gold-Dust-WWE (resized).jpg
#54 1 year ago

Between buttons and coil stops, there is a lot that needs improved. I will say routinely I have replaced hundreds of flipper buttons and stops. Literally enough to buy another machine with.

#55 1 year ago

While we're talking about this kind of thing...

Any suggestions for what to do with Stern buttons that stick? Like, you try to flip but the button doesn't depress and then you mash it hard and finally it loosens up and works fine for the next 50-100 flips.

#56 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

While we're talking about this kind of thing...
Any suggestions for what to do with Stern buttons that stick? Like, you try to flip but the button doesn't depress and then you mash it hard and finally it loosens up and works fine for the next 50-100 flips.

Usually it's a leftover mould booger on button lip where it meets the housing. It's fine until the button rotates into position for the booger to catch the flipper button housing. You can trim it with an x-acto if you're dedicated.

It also can happen on flipper buttons that get a lot of use. The pressed end inside starts to wear, getting small enough to partially slip inside the hole of the housing and sticking. If that's your issue, putting an e-clip (harbor freght multipack FTW) on it will solve it.

#57 1 year ago

Complain to stern
If people don't complain they will keep doing this

#58 1 year ago

You guys remember people saying in the 1970's and 80's ,maybe 90's that games were only meant to last 5 years - Well Stern is making this happen! Your game will wear itself out in 5 -7 years and then you have to buy another new one..... I wonder if node boards will be readily available for your game in 10 years time?
How much more defective issues will people stomach before people have enough and stop buying. If they don't remedy issues and keep raising prices its the beginning of the end.
A friend just received their new AC/DC - flipper rubbers had already start to perish on the tip - screws missing from assemblies and NOT in the bottom of the game. Display not connected.

8 months later
#59 3 months ago

You guys should start reporting/logging flipper issues based on flips. If i remember right, audits show how many times each flipper has been flipped? That would be a more accurate lifespan of the coil stops etc, as flips vary greatly from game to game. Also some games typically get more play on one specific flipper.

Good info in this thread though, ive seen both the button pop off and coil stop issues with location sterns here and a friends personal machine. Planning on getting some new sterns myself soon, so ill grab some extra supplies and be prepared.

#60 3 months ago

Upper right flipper coil stop on my JP needed to be replaced in under two weeks. We're about a week past that, but I could do some math and figure out the flips.

#61 3 months ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Upper right flipper coil stop on my JP needed to be replaced in under two weeks. We're about a week past that, but I could do some math and figure out the flips.

seems like they might go through different vendors... or possibly just bad batches.
I replaced 5 pop bumper brackets on my MMR, just guessing it's probably had 13,000 - 14,000 plays.
had two coils stops shatter on TNA with that gold dust all over the place.
Same thing with a new stern every now and then.

I don't mind that stuff, I'd much rather them re-engineer those EOS actuators, those things suck donkey balls.

#62 3 months ago

Both of my tables with rapidly failing coil stops also have clearcoat issues Coincidence? Maybe.

Anyway, should I just stock up on PBL coil stops? That seems like the pro move.

#63 3 months ago
Quoted from KingHebes:

You guys should start reporting/logging flipper issues based on flips. If i remember right, audits show how many times each flipper has been flipped? That would be a more accurate lifespan of the coil stops etc, as flips vary greatly from game to game. Also some games typically get more play on one specific flipper.
Good info in this thread though, ive seen both the button pop off and coil stop issues with location sterns here and a friends personal machine. Planning on getting some new sterns myself soon, so ill grab some extra supplies and be prepared.

Solid point. New DP Premium. 42k left flipper. 37k right flipper. Gold dusting hard on the right. New stops inbound.

#64 3 months ago

All three coil stops on my Jurassic Park blew out in under 500 plays. Not sure when exactly since I wasn't at the location to know when they actually went. The button was completely separated from the bracket on two flippers (lower left and upper right) and was just loose on the other. Threw some new ones in... hopefully they last longer. The Pinball Life ones have typically done pretty well for me.

#65 3 months ago

This has been the case on all my newest sterns. 5 munsters, 5 IM, 3 BK, 3JP. I’ve replaced virtually all the coilstops on these. Nothing new really, Has been a hit/miss issue for years. just seems to be more common recently for whatever reason

#66 3 months ago

Two of three replaced in JP so far. I moved the spring washer on one but not the other one. Will see if that makes a difference.

#67 3 months ago

Anyone care to post the part number from Pinball Life so I can stock up on a few if needed.

#69 3 months ago
Quoted from jay:

All three coil stops on my Jurassic Park blew out in under 500 plays. Not sure when exactly since I wasn't at the location to know when they actually went. The button was completely separated from the bracket on two flippers (lower left and upper right) and was just loose on the other.

I have pretty much the exact same scenario on the JP at our club.

#70 3 months ago

Hope you guys are reporting this to your distributors, Stern clearly got a bad batch or cut corners too far on the stops.

#71 3 months ago

This coil stop problem is not a new issue. I remember running into it on Mustang several years ago and for some reason it keeps popping up again and again.

#72 3 months ago

Do people ever convert to total wlms assys? Seems parts are cheaper and better built.

#73 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

Do people ever convert to total wlms assys? Seems parts are cheaper and better built.

I definitely don’t believe that to be the case. Each mechanism has its issues and both will eventually require aftermarket parts, especially with heavy use.

The things I see problems with on Stern mechs are EOS switches that break, EOS switch pawls that break and coil stops that break but the latter has generally been better using parts from Pinball Life. Of course that could be dumb luck too, no idea really.

The things I see problems with on WPC style mechs are cranks that wear out very quickly (either the hole for the link gets super sloppy or the crank down hardware collapses on the bat shaft very easily—both of these problems seem related to metal that is too soft) and entire brackets that crack or shear at the coil stop end.

Wear and tear for things like plungers and stops, under normal circumstances, are normal between the two mech designs as best I can tell. I’d generally prefer to repair or replace the Stern parts for the above issues vs. WPC parts which are a bit more work to get apart and change. Cost is close enough that I don’t really care. I like the feel of WPC flippers better but that’s not down to solely the mechanism as Stern flippers function differently than WPC.

#74 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

Do people ever convert to total wlms assys? Seems parts are cheaper and better built.

yes, I played a HEP LOTR that he converted over to WMS assemblies.

#75 3 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

yes, I played a HEP LOTR that he converted over to WMS assemblies.

The coil stops are different sizes, so you'd have to change out the entire bracket I'd imagine. The distance of flipper travel would almost certainly be changed in the process. Wouldn't it?

#76 3 months ago

The new album making it's way up the charts...

coilstops.jpg

1 week later
#77 84 days ago

Jurassics first week on location. Not sure if flipper audits reset, but i did reset audits before taking on location. About 300 plays when i went to investigate the issue i heard of weak sluggish flippers. Both right flipper coil stops had blown out. About 12k flips.left flipper seems fine with around 9k flips. Glad i found this thread prior and had some extra stops ready to go.

20190919_155504 (resized).jpg20190919_160719 (resized).jpg
#78 83 days ago

Hey funny thing.(actually its not funny). I had an event today and a player mentioned the right flipper on deadpool was doing what jp did. played it and yep seemed like a bad coil stop. Opened it up and sure enough the coil stop separated like the others. Luckily i had the part and tools handy to fix it. But deadpool is under 150 plays lifetime and 10k right flipper flips. Left seems fine at 9k. But we will see how it does tomorrow at another tournament.

2 months later
#79 12 hours ago

Jurassic Park premium, less than 200 plays in home use. At this point Stern should include a Pinball Life gift certificate in every goodie bag.

C8C1CB80-A592-4DC4-A873-A23AD3E21561 (resized).jpeg

#80 11 hours ago

This has been an issue for years....Stern is printing money right now, and spending time to fix this issue isn't really a priority to them.

#81 11 hours ago
Quoted from yancy:

Jurassic Park premium, less than 200 plays in home use. At this point Stern should include a Pinball Life gift certificate in every goodie bag.
[quoted image]

Does Stern make their own coil stops? If not are they sourced differently than pinball life's coil stops?

#82 11 hours ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Stern is printing money right now, and spending time to fix this issue isn't really a priority to them.

Two good reasons to...

Quoted from yancy:

include a Pinball Life gift certificate in every goodie bag.

#83 11 hours ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Does Stern make their own coil stops?

I don't think they can do that kind of metalwork in house.

Quoted from CrazyLevi:

If not are they sourced differently than pinball life's coil stops?

Definitely. PBLs are tanks. I'm guessing Stern got a bad batch, and due to the size of batches they buy, it's taking forever to get through them. Until then, mum's the word! Even though hundreds of people have reported this issue. I'd call and ask for JP2 replacements, but what good are three more shitty ones?

#84 11 hours ago

The problem is they are not peened onto the bracket hard enough. The displaced metal that is mushroomed by the peening process is too light, and that thin amount of metal is giving way abnormally fast.

#85 11 hours ago

I'm thinking PinBall Life pays Stern to include all the bad parts so spend more $'s for replacement parts with them. Think of all the extra orders PBL gets for replacement Balls, sling rubbers, coil stops, etc...

#86 11 hours ago

you think replacing coil stops is bad...

have fun when you need to retap the bolts that hold the stops.

5 blown bolts in the past 2 months (JP2, BK3K, and EV3)

#87 11 hours ago

The last set of pictures really helped a newbie like me understand what to look for, and that replacing them is not a huge deal or very difficult (though annoying). Thanks folks.

#88 11 hours ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

you think replacing coil stops is bad...
have fun when you need to retap the bolts that hold the stops.
5 blown bolts in the past 2 months (JP2, BK3K, and EV3)

What are you using to remove the bolts?

-3
#89 11 hours ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

The last set of pictures really helped a newbie like me understand what to look for, and that replacing them is not a huge deal or very difficult (though annoying). Thanks folks.

IMO it's worth buying a few coil stops just to have on hand. If one blows you can fix in 60 seconds. Eventually you'll need to replace them due to wear anyway, so either way it's not lost money.

#90 11 hours ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

The last set of pictures really helped a newbie like me understand what to look for, and that replacing them is not a huge deal or very difficult (though annoying).

Quoted from zaphX:

If one blows you can fix in 60 seconds.

Yup, just need a 5/16" nut driver or socket wrench, preferably with extension so you don't have to cram the head of the wrench down by the flipper mech, wires, etc. Socket wrench is easier since the bolts are torqued in pretty tight.

#91 11 hours ago

it's not just stern. Did you see the thread about someone posting, that showed all the stops on their JJP hobbit drop bank. Every single coil stop sheered off every bolt on the entire bank.

#92 11 hours ago
Quoted from zaphX:

IMO it's worth buying a few coil stops just to have on hand. If one blows you can fix in 60 seconds. Eventually you'll need to replace them due to wear anyway, so either way it's not lost money.

I hardly ever have to replace stops. Even on games 30 or 40 years old. The stops are rarely mushroomed. And if they are you can file down the edge. Usually in a rebuild, the only thing you have to do is clean the plunger and replace the sleeve. On rare occasions, the link gets worn out and needs to be replaced or the plunger mushrooms some. but not often.

#93 11 hours ago

yes, it's easy to buy replacements
BUT everyone with issues should contact Stern for replacements, whether you use them or not.
They need to be made aware the extent of the issue by requests for replacements.

#94 11 hours ago

Are these made in Chicago or overseas.?

#95 11 hours ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

BUT everyone with issues should contact Stern for replacements, whether you use them or not.
They need to be made aware the extent of the issue by requests for replacements.

Good call.

#96 10 hours ago
Quoted from kermit24:

What are you using to remove the bolts?

Drill and tap if they break off without enough left to back them out or pull through.

Such a PITA

#97 9 hours ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Eventually you'll need to replace them due to wear anyway, so either way it's not lost money.

No that really isn't how it works; this isn't flipper rubber.

#98 4 hours ago
Quoted from chad:

Are these made in Chicago or overseas.?

Overseas.

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There are 98 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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