(Topic ID: 304623)

Stern rectifier pin out.

By Grefla

7 days ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 days ago

Hi. Just picked up a non working Wild Fyre. Looking in the back box the rectifier board has been hacked a bit, with the J1 wires being soldered to the pins!! Worse than that I think they are soldered to the wrong pins.

I’m repining the connector and from the schematic I think it should be:
J1 - 1 Red - GI return
J1 - 6 Blue-White sol bus
J1 - 7 Blue - feature lamp bus
J1 - 8 white- GI bus.

I think the wires for 6 and 7 were soldered the wrong way. (First picture). I just want to make sure I’m correct, and that the schematic doesn’t have an error (I believe sometimes they do)

The other thing is that they have jumpered the blue wire (feature lamp bus) from the J1 connector to the solid blue wire going to the headbox insert (second picture). I had to cut this to take the headbox off. I’m working through the schematic to try and understand why they would have done this.

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#2 7 days ago

Holy cow. It gets worse.

J3 has had the same treatment.

Pin 1 and 2 have been Completely removed from the socket (the socket has only 18 pins now) and soldered directly to the pins.
Green to pin 1 and white to pin 2.

There’s a loose white wire protruding from the back of the board that’s not connected to anything, and pin 11 (orange) and 12 (red ) have both wires cut and they disappear behind the board. I’m assuming they are soldered to the back of the pins. There also looks to be a jumper on the front of the board between J3 and J1 which may or may not be correct.

The bridge rectifiers look like they have had a smashing too.

I’m thinking at this stage it’s going to be best to get a new board!

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#3 7 days ago
Quoted from Grefla:

I’m thinking at this stage it’s going to be best to get a new board.

100% yes. Your board is a mess, new board is cheap and it's a critical part in the game. You'll also obviously want to rebuild the female connectors.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Stern_TA-100_Rectifier_Board

#4 7 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

100% yes. Your board is a mess, new board is cheap and it's a critical part in the game. You'll also obviously want to rebuild the female connectors.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Stern_TA-100_Rectifier_Board

Indeed, it's a real mess. I've just ordered a new board.

I'll be redoing the connectors.

Are you able to confirm that J1 6 and 7 were soldered the wrong way around?

and what do you think the loose white wire coming from the back of the board is?

#5 7 days ago

Bump

Quench Help.

#6 7 days ago

you are correct in your first post

pin 6 is solenoid bus 43VDC= blue/white tracer

pin 7 is feature lamp bus 5.4VDC = blue

your new rectifier board will most likely come with J1 having 9 pins.
your call whether to use a new 8 or 9 pin connector housing?
either way pin 4 is your keying plug.

the white wire may be your AC return but easier to tell for sure with a pic to see where it is soldered to, won't matter as nothing is soldered to the back and you'll be starting anew.

#7 7 days ago

Funny. I was going to reply to your very first post about 5 minutes after you posted it but got side-tracked.

Rikoshay pretty much said it all.
Pay careful attention to what he said about the replacement rectifier board being 9 pin at J1, not 8 pin and making sure to put the wires/connector housing in the correct position.

#8 7 days ago

Thanks all.

I’ll wait for the board to arrive and get started.

The MPU has major battery corrosion too. The battery was still on after 43 years! As soon as I got the machine it was cut off and is in the bin now.

So once the power supply is fixed up that will be the next challenge.

I haven’t done a rectifier board yet so that will be a fun little project.

#9 7 days ago

Got a picture of which rectifier board you're getting?

#10 5 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Got a picture of which rectifier board you're getting?

Homepin (resized).png
#11 5 days ago
Quoted from Grefla:

I haven’t done a rectifier board yet so that will be a fun little project.

I think you've shown enough understanding of the schematics that you shouldn't have too much trouble. The Homepin rectifier board should be fine.

#12 5 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I think you've shown enough understanding of the schematics that you shouldn't have too much trouble. The Homepin rectifier board should be fine.

Thank you. It’s interesting. I was checking if there were any other incorrect wires, like the ones in my first post, so I pulled up the wiring schematic and went through all of the wires, making sure they were on the correct A2 pins. Fortunately they were, and so I’ve re pinned the connectors ready for the new board.

When I went to the sdb schematic to check for the wire colours there were so many contradictory statements with the main wiring schematic regarding the origin of the wire from the A2 board.

I’d heard there were lots of errors in stern schematics.

#13 5 days ago
Quoted from Grefla:

I’d heard there were lots of errors in stern schematics.

You heard right!

These are my notes on the Stern SDB schematic connection errors:

SDB J3-5 comes from A2J3-9, not A2J3-8
SDB J3-12 comes from A2J3-8, not A2J3-1
SDB J3-17 goes to A1J1-20, not A1J1-18
SDB J3-20 goes to A1J1-13, not A1J1-11

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