(Topic ID: 249337)

Stern Quicksilver, first Stern, first full sized SS. Display and GI

By johnboy1313

4 years ago


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#18 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

The new board says "5A FB" for the same circuit. This was supposed to be a direct replacement. Did I get the correct board?

5 amp fast blow at F4 was the default for Bally/Stern games that had two flippers. For games with 4 flippers a larger rated fuse was needed. I guess Stern stuck with the larger rated fuse for lower B.O.M. I can't see any other reason.
Since Quick Silver is a two flipper game I imagine a 5 amp fast blow is plenty sufficient.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

I got the new replacement rectifier board in the mail today and installed it tonight. Prior to installing it I was attemtping to fix a weak left flipper by adjusting the EOS switch and blew the 7a slowblow fuse on the rectifier board. Right before it blew I noticed the EOS switch itself was too hot to touch.

Sounds like the EOS switch might be wired wrong if it's getting hot and the solenoid fuse on the rectifier board is blowing. Post clear pictures of the wiring at both flippers.

#32 4 years ago

Can you post a video of display test mode running through the total number sequence (well at least 10 changes of numbers)? It will help paint a picture of what's logically going wrong.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I swapped the 1st and 3rd player displays. 3rd player still shows the correct numbers. Looks like the connections may not be as solid as I thought.

The display wiring harness probably starts at display 3 then daisy chains to the other displays. So yeah, likely you have an open circuit between the blue-white wire at pin 18 of display 3 and the same pin at the next display in the wiring chain.
Below is the binary representation of the signals, left side is what should be happening, right side is what you're getting. You can see there is a signal always being seen as high '1' which is BCD signal "D1" that comes from the MPU board at pin 26 of J1 and goes to all the displays at pin 18 (Blue-White wire).

0 0000 --> 0010 2
1 0001 --> 0011 3
2 0010 --> 0010 2
3 0011 --> 0011 3
4 0100 --> 0110 6
5 0101 --> 0111 7
6 0110 --> 0110 6
7 0111 --> 0111 7
8 1000 --> 1010 -
9 1001 --> 1011 -
- 1010 --> 1010 -
- 1011 --> 1010 -
- 1100 --> 1110 -
- 1101 --> 1111 -
- 1110 --> 1110 -
- 1111 --> 1111 -

#41 4 years ago

Your problem with the lamp issue is likely to be connector related as oldschoolbob was getting at. We see it happen here all the time.
What happens when you wiggle the J1 connector on the MPU board and the J4 connector on the lamp driver board? Do any lamps suddenly start working?
Communications between the two is done over these connectors.

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

There's no change when wiggling connectors. I've tried individual wires too. No lights come back on. Like I said, everything is out now. I checked the fuses. They're all good. There's 5V going into the lamp board but there's nothing coming out.

How about the bare braid wire running to the base of each feature lamp socket under the playfield. Do you measure 5.4VDC there?
If you grab a piece of wire with both ends stripped, connect one end to ground and touch the other end on the tab at the tip of any lamp socket, does the respective lamp illuminate?

Lamp_Socket_Controlled.jpgLamp_Socket_Controlled.jpg

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I still plan on new decoders and 100k resistors.

The only display that looks like it might need the decoder replaced is at player 4.
Display 3 with the missing lower segment is more likely to be a faulty segment drive transistor (Q11 in this case). If you don't have any spare MPSA42 transistors on hand, swap Q11 with Q10 and see if the missing segment moves. If not, it's possibly the decoder.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

I touched up the solder joints on the mpu and now it won't boot. This thing is really putting up a fight.

You'll have to get the magnifying glass out and closely inspect the solder work for any accidental bridges between pins.
What's the MPU board doing - how many times does the MPU LED flicker/flash?

#50 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

The LED is solid or doesnt light at all.

If the LED sometimes doesn't light (flicker) at all on powerup there's a power issue.

Until your connector crimp terminals come in, pull J4 off the MPU board and check for crimped terminals that have lost tension.
Does the MPU board have battery corrosion and if yes has it the MPU board pin headers causing poor conductivity?

IMG_1402c.jpgIMG_1402c.jpg

#52 4 years ago

Does it boot if you disconnect the sound board ribbon cable connected to J5 on the MPU board?

#54 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I touched up the solder joints on the mpu and now it won't boot. This thing is really putting up a fight.

Have you since checked and rechecked the work you did to the MPU board?
And which joints did you resolder?

1 week later
#57 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I noticed that the schematic for the lamp board is wrong. According to the schematic, pins J1-11 and J1-12 should both be ground but on the driver board, pins J1-10 and J1-11 are ground. J1-12 isn't ground. Are any of you familiar with this?

I'm not sure what type of lamp driver board you're looking at but the Stern lamp driver board in my hand has J4 pins 11 and 12 connected together for ground (including pins 1 and 2) as per the schematics.

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I'm going to study the schematic and start checking for continuity through each circuit.

You should be able to find the issue doing this. Remember to go beyond the connectors when you're testing the continuity. Don't test at the actual connectors.
Check that you also have 5 volt power to the lamp driver board and also try grounding the metal tabs on some of the larger SCRs to see if the respective lamps illuminate. That will tell you if your lamp driver board is getting ground. Oh, probably worth checking that the feature lamps have power running to the common braid wire that runs to the base of all the feature lamps. Some people mistakenly think that bare braid wire is ground but it's actually 5.4VDC lamp power.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

It's LDA-100 Rev C

Mine is also a LDA-100 Rev C (bone colored board) and I've counted it a few times, it's definitely pins 11 and 12 connected together. Pin 8 is the key, 9 and 10 have no traces running to them, 11 and 12 are connected together and ground, 13 is connected to resistor R75.

The below picture is taken from the Quick Silver club thread - it shows a white-black wire at pin 11 of J4 on the lamp driver board. No wire at pin 10 or 12 which is normal.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/17#post-5054046

QuickSilver_LDB.jpgQuickSilver_LDB.jpg

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

What do you mean when you say pin 8 is the "key". What does key mean in this instance?

Pin 8 on the header is missing (you'll notice the letter 'K' printed on the PCB next to it), and the housing has the blocking "key" installed to prevent the connector from being installed incorrectly. If you pull the connector off you will see the blocking key at terminal location 8 (unless someone has previously removed it).

#64 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

So that's all lamps at pins 17, 18, and 19 coming from all four of the decoder ICs that are all dead. BUT, the lights coming from pin 20 will work intermittently, so I don’t know what to make of it.

Sounds like you might have one or two missing address lines to the decoder chips from the MPU board. If you've got a logic probe, time to hook it up and probe pins 2, 3, 21, 22 of U1 on the lamp driver board and also pins 1 and 23 of the four decoder chips on the lamp driver board. If any pins indicate high only, you'll need to determine where the signal is being lost between the MPU board and the lamp driver board.
Pin 24 on the decoder chips is the bottom left pin, pin 1 of the chips is the bottom right pin and pins are numbered anticlockwise from there.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

The credits are no longer showing on the credit/ball in play display as well.

DIP switch #20 on the MPU board enables/disables the Credit display.

#67 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I've gone ahead and ordered new Alltek boards to replace the MPU and lamp driver. Hopefully this will get the machine up and running.

Oh..
Can you try one more thing in the mean time, disconnect the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board. Do the missing lamps now work?

#69 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I don't have a logic probe. I do have a small board that works with a laptop to act like a scope but I've never used it.

You can also try checking these with your multimeter set to DC voltage. The pins with activity will measure between 1 to 2 volts from memory. Any that are stuck on 5 volts have a bad connection from the MPU board.

Also try the other thing I mentioned about disconnecting J2 and J3 playfield and cabinet switch matrix harnesses from the MPU board - the switch matrix also uses the same MPU control signals that go to the lamp driver board.

#71 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

The fourth showed 5.3V on one side and 0.500 at the other.

That's a problem. Confirm which resistor is was and which side had 5.3V and which had 0.5V

Did you also try removing J2 and J3 from the MPU board?

#73 4 years ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I'm going to reflow every solder joint on the board.

You measured an incorrect voltage at one of the resistors on the lamp driver board - have you followed up on it?

Since the games behavior changes with temperature, if you have some air duster in a can you can use it to cool down components since it expels some refrigerant.

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