(Topic ID: 249337)

Stern Quicksilver, first Stern, first full sized SS. Display and GI


By johnboy1313

9 months ago



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  • 75 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by johnboy1313
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 75 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 9 months ago

No battery corrosion at all.

The LED may flicker at first, then go out or it will flicker, then come back on and stay solid.

#52 9 months ago

Does it boot if you disconnect the sound board ribbon cable connected to J5 on the MPU board?

#53 9 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Does it boot if you disconnect the sound board ribbon cable connected to J5 on the MPU board?

No, it doesn't

#54 9 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I touched up the solder joints on the mpu and now it won't boot. This thing is really putting up a fight.

Have you since checked and rechecked the work you did to the MPU board?
And which joints did you resolder?

#55 9 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Have you since checked and rechecked the work you did to the MPU board?
And which joints did you resolder?

No I haven't been back to the machine yet. I resoldered all of the connectors pins and all of the joints at U10 and U11.

1 week later
#56 9 months ago

Back at it again. Wednesday evening (two nights ago), I swapped all of the header pin on the MPU and plugged it back in. I had 90 percent of the feature lamps back. Last night, I swapped all of the header pins on the lamp driver. I lost all of the feature lights again. I noticed that if I moved connector J4 on the lamp board, that most of the lights would come back on. I changed all of the crimp connectors on that plug and lost all of the lights again. None of the wires are loose in the connector. Moving that plug makes no difference anymore. I'm going to study the schematic and start checking for continuity through each circuit. I noticed that the schematic for the lamp board is wrong. According to the schematic, pins J4-11 and J4-12 should both be ground but on the driver board, pins J4-10 and J4-11 are ground. J4-12 isn't ground. Are any of you familiar with this? Is there an updated schematic around?

I did get all four score displays working so, I guess that's a step forward.

#57 9 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I noticed that the schematic for the lamp board is wrong. According to the schematic, pins J1-11 and J1-12 should both be ground but on the driver board, pins J1-10 and J1-11 are ground. J1-12 isn't ground. Are any of you familiar with this?

I'm not sure what type of lamp driver board you're looking at but the Stern lamp driver board in my hand has J4 pins 11 and 12 connected together for ground (including pins 1 and 2) as per the schematics.

#58 9 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

I'm not sure what type of lamp driver board you're looking at but the Stern lamp driver board in my hand has J4 pins 11 and 12 connected together for ground (including pins 1 and 2) as per the schematics.

It's LDA-100 Rev C I believe. Pins 10 and 11 are connected to each other and also to pins 1 and 2. Pin 12 runs to a resistor but I didn't pay enough attention to it to see which one and I'm not at the machine at the moment. There isn't even a wire going to pins 10 or 12, so I don't think it's an issue. I noticed that I wrote "J1" on my last post. I meant connector J4. It has been corrected.

#59 9 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I'm going to study the schematic and start checking for continuity through each circuit.

You should be able to find the issue doing this. Remember to go beyond the connectors when you're testing the continuity. Don't test at the actual connectors.
Check that you also have 5 volt power to the lamp driver board and also try grounding the metal tabs on some of the larger SCRs to see if the respective lamps illuminate. That will tell you if your lamp driver board is getting ground. Oh, probably worth checking that the feature lamps have power running to the common braid wire that runs to the base of all the feature lamps. Some people mistakenly think that bare braid wire is ground but it's actually 5.4VDC lamp power.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

It's LDA-100 Rev C

Mine is also a LDA-100 Rev C (bone colored board) and I've counted it a few times, it's definitely pins 11 and 12 connected together. Pin 8 is the key, 9 and 10 have no traces running to them, 11 and 12 are connected together and ground, 13 is connected to resistor R75.

The below picture is taken from the Quick Silver club thread - it shows a white-black wire at pin 11 of J4 on the lamp driver board. No wire at pin 10 or 12 which is normal.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/17#post-5054046

QuickSilver_LDB.jpg

#60 9 months ago

What do you mean when you say pin 8 is the "key". What does key mean in this instance?

#61 9 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

What do you mean when you say pin 8 is the "key". What does key mean in this instance?

Pin 8 on the header is missing (you'll notice the letter 'K' printed on the PCB next to it), and the housing has the blocking "key" installed to prevent the connector from being installed incorrectly. If you pull the connector off you will see the blocking key at terminal location 8 (unless someone has previously removed it).

#62 9 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Pin 8 on the header is missing (you'll notice the letter 'K' printed on the PCB next to it), and the housing has the blocking "key" installed to prevent the connector from being installed incorrectly. If you pull the connector off you will see the blocking key at terminal location 8 (unless someone has previously removed it).

That makes sense. Thanks

#63 8 months ago

So I was just flat out wrong about pins 10 and 11 being connected. It is pins 11 and 12 that are connected.

As it sits right now, I have a handful of bulbs that work correctly, another handful that light but don't flash, and a third handful that don't light at all but will if I ground the individual sockets under the playfield.

After looking at the schematic for a while, I noticed that a lot of the lights that aren't lit have somewhat common points on the board. The light for the letter 'Q' at the top of the playfield goes to pin 19 on the MC14514B decoder IC labeled U4. The light for the letter 'U' goes to pin 19 on U3. 'I' goes to pin 19 on U2 and 'C' goes to pin 19 on U1. They are all unlit all of the time. It's the same with the 5 divider lights just below the letters Q U I C, they are all dead too. 4 of the five go to pin 17 on the same four ICs. The 5th lamp goes to pin 18 on U4. pin 18 on U3 and U2 aren't used but pin 18 on U1 is the extra ball light, which is dead too.

So that's all lamps at pins 17, 18, and 19 coming from all four of the decoder ICs that are all dead. BUT, the lights coming from pin 20 will work intermittently, so I don’t know what to make of it.

The credits are no longer showing on the credit/ball in play display as well.

#64 8 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

So that's all lamps at pins 17, 18, and 19 coming from all four of the decoder ICs that are all dead. BUT, the lights coming from pin 20 will work intermittently, so I don’t know what to make of it.

Sounds like you might have one or two missing address lines to the decoder chips from the MPU board. If you've got a logic probe, time to hook it up and probe pins 2, 3, 21, 22 of U1 on the lamp driver board and also pins 1 and 23 of the four decoder chips on the lamp driver board. If any pins indicate high only, you'll need to determine where the signal is being lost between the MPU board and the lamp driver board.
Pin 24 on the decoder chips is the bottom left pin, pin 1 of the chips is the bottom right pin and pins are numbered anticlockwise from there.

Quoted from johnboy1313:

The credits are no longer showing on the credit/ball in play display as well.

DIP switch #20 on the MPU board enables/disables the Credit display.

#65 8 months ago

I've gone ahead and ordered new Alltek boards to replace the MPU and lamp driver. Hopefully this will get the machine up and running.

#66 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Sounds like you might have one or two missing address lines to the decoder chips from the MPU board. If you've got a logic probe, time to hook it up and probe pins 2, 3, 21, 22 of U1 on the lamp driver board and also pins 1 and 23 of the four decoder chips on the lamp driver board. If any pins indicate high only, you'll need to determine where the signal is being lost between the MPU board and the lamp driver board.
Pin 24 on the decoder chips is the bottom left pin, pin 1 of the chips is the bottom right pin and pins are numbered anticlockwise from there.

DIP switch #20 on the MPU board enables/disables the Credit display.

I don't have a logic probe. I do have a small board that works with a laptop to act like a scope but I've never used it.

#67 8 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I've gone ahead and ordered new Alltek boards to replace the MPU and lamp driver. Hopefully this will get the machine up and running.

Oh..
Can you try one more thing in the mean time, disconnect the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board. Do the missing lamps now work?

#68 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Oh..
Can you try one more thing in the mean time, disconnect the J2 and J3 connectors off the MPU board. Do the missing lamps now work?

I'll let you know this afternoon. Thanks Quench

#69 8 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I don't have a logic probe. I do have a small board that works with a laptop to act like a scope but I've never used it.

You can also try checking these with your multimeter set to DC voltage. The pins with activity will measure between 1 to 2 volts from memory. Any that are stuck on 5 volts have a bad connection from the MPU board.

Also try the other thing I mentioned about disconnecting J2 and J3 playfield and cabinet switch matrix harnesses from the MPU board - the switch matrix also uses the same MPU control signals that go to the lamp driver board.

#70 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

You can also try checking these with your multimeter set to DC voltage. The pins with activity will measure between 1 to 2 volts from memory. Any that are stuck on 5 volts have a bad connection from the MPU board.
Also try the other thing I mentioned about disconnecting J2 and J3 playfield and cabinet switch matrix harnesses from the MPU board - the switch matrix also uses the same MPU control signals that go to the lamp driver board.

Three of the four address lines showed roughly 1.25V at both sides of the resistors. The fourth showed 5.3V on one side and 0.500 at the other. I believe it was R79 on the lamp board but I don't have it in front of me at the time.

#71 8 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

The fourth showed 5.3V on one side and 0.500 at the other.

That's a problem. Confirm which resistor is was and which side had 5.3V and which had 0.5V

Did you also try removing J2 and J3 from the MPU board?

#72 8 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

That's a problem. Confirm which resistor is was and which side had 5.3V and which had 0.5V
Did you also try removing J2 and J3 from the MPU board?

Yes, J2 and J3 being unplugged made no difference. Two nights ago, all feature lights were out. Last night I got home and half of them were working again. The longer I let it sit, the more lights would come on. I'm going to reflow every solder joint on the board.

I hit the credit button at one point to play a game and the pop bumpers started firing on their own, then the machine reset to three flashes and wouldn't do anything else. I pulled the new PIA chip from Action Pinball out and replaced it with the old chip. The machine is working again. I got less than a week out of the new chip. Not sure what happened, but the old chips seem to be able to handle whatever the new chip didn't like. I'm really looking forward to getting the new Alltek boards installed.

#73 8 months ago
Quoted from johnboy1313:

I'm going to reflow every solder joint on the board.

You measured an incorrect voltage at one of the resistors on the lamp driver board - have you followed up on it?

Since the games behavior changes with temperature, if you have some air duster in a can you can use it to cool down components since it expels some refrigerant.

#74 8 months ago

I haven't followed up. The new Alltek boards are in and this thing is working AWESOME! I love this game. When I bought the Alltek boards, I told my wife that I would be likely sell it. She played it this weekend and told me not to sell it and that I should move it into the house. I wrung up 3,958,620 points on it last night.

Thanks for your help quench. I will build a test rig and get to the bottom of the issues on the old board.

3 weeks later
#75 8 months ago

This game is so much fun to play. I rolled the score over 9,999,990 yesterday. It didn't recognize that the new high score is 10,015,180. It thought I only scored 15,180. I dig this part the most.

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