(Topic ID: 176224)

Stern Playboy (Fire Survivor) Resets upon Auto Launch (WhiteStar)

By xeneize

7 years ago


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  • 31 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by mgpasman
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#1 7 years ago

Gang:

I am the current owner of the "Smoking Hot" Playboy as featured in the following thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/first-stern-a-smoking-hot-2002-playboy-extensive-smoke-damage

It has a nagging issue which has me puzzled.

When I received the game it was resetting at random to the point which a single ball could not be completed. I started to methodically go through molex connectors and found several shorts where insulation had melted thus causing wires to touch each other. The boards were not securely fastened to the ground plate and were literally not touching it in places, so was definitely missing ground points. There were several connectors with wires in the wrong slots and hitting the wrong pins. All the aforementioned issues have been cleaned up and the game is error free. Now, it will play a complete game UNTIL the auto launch engages. Whether it be for a ball save or for multiball, as soon as that coil (#2) fires, the game reboots. Firing the coil in test achieves the same result. The coil and diode both check out good.

The boards were new and installed shortly before I took ownership and there is no evidence of any components blowing on the board. I have not pulled them out and tested individual components, but certainly can, if we suspect a culprit there.

All voltages at test points on the board are within acceptable thresholds.

Photos attached of relevant pages in the manual.

Thanks for your help!

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#2 7 years ago

Monday AM bump!

#3 7 years ago

Tuesday bump.

#4 7 years ago

Wednesday bump!

#5 7 years ago

If you unplug J8 from the driver board and do a solenoid test does the game still reset? Also make sure the lugs on the auto launch coil aren't touching anything when the coil activates.

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from myork82:

If you unplug J8 from the driver board and do a solenoid test does the game still reset? Also make sure the lugs on the auto launch coil aren't touching anything when the coil activates.

If the trough up-kicker, and the bumpers work, then it's not the 50v power supply. Removing J8 and firing the coil will tell if it's playfield or controller. If removing J8 keeps it from rebooting, then there is a short on the brown-red wire to another power source, the coil is shorted, or the diode is missing or installed backwards on the coil.

If it still reboots after removing J8 and trying to fire the coil, Then replace Q2 (IRL540N), R2 (22K), C277 (.1 uF), and C269 (.01 uF) and check for a short on the traces near those parts on the controller.

No matter what, make sure the diode is on the coil, and is facing the correct direction, with the banded end on the yellow-violet wire, and the non banded end on the brown-red wire. If wrong, reverse the wires on the coil or replace the diode.

#7 7 years ago

Great feedback, thank you!

I know the coil lugs are not making contact with anything else. 50V is not the issue as everything else fires without disruption to the MPU as it should.

Once I run through a couple of tests with J8 disconeccted, I will update with results.

#8 7 years ago

So, checked my resistance on the coil and it is in spec. Cut a leg off the diode and it tested good, but I replaced it with a new one (of course, banded side on the power side - yellow/violet). So, it sounds like it is not a shorted coil or diode.

Removed J-8 and when I go in to coil test and fire coil #2, the game does NOT reset. It does reset when J-8 is installed and coil #2 is fired. So, it sounds like this is not a board issue, correct?

I have inspected the wire from end to end and do not see any more stressed areas or melted insulation. Any suggestions or tricks for finding the short?

Would a viable test be running a brand new wire from the coil to the header pins and seeing if that eliminates the issue? That may eliminate the ability to overlook a physical short, no?

#9 7 years ago

Yes you could run a temp wire from the connector at the board to the coil. Disconnect the Brn-Red wire at J8 and at the coil. Then install a temporary wire. If the problem goes away then Brn-Red has issues for sure!

#10 7 years ago

OK, so a fresh wire on the Brn-Red side accomplished nothing. Wondering if I should remove the power side and try the same trick...the power side is daisy chained to other coils though...not quite as easy to accomplish.

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from myork82:

If the problem goes away then Brn-Red has issues for sure!

Problem did not go away by running a fresh, independent wire in place of Brn-Red. Is it possible that the YL-VIO is the one that's shorted? If so, wouldn't that affect more than just the one (Auto Launch) coil?

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Problem did not go away by running a fresh, independent wire in place of Brn-Red. Is it possible that the YL-VIO is the one that's shorted? If so, wouldn't that affect more than just the one (Auto Launch) coil?

That implies that the diode is shorted out, the coil is shorted out, or there is a short on the transistor allowing power to something else when it tries to switch to ground.

I know you said everything tested correctly, but there has got to be a short happening.

Try taking a jumper and test firing the coil by jumping the brn-red wire on the coil to ground directly.
If it still reboots then we need to remove the brn-red wire from the coil, and jump the coil to ground again, if it still reboots, remove the diode, try again, if still reboots change the coil. If it stops after the diode change the diode, if it doesn't do it at all using the jumper, look at the back of the MPU for a short....

#13 7 years ago

Get it going and invite me down.

#14 7 years ago

Open invite to the Xeneize Arcade for both of you - themadman and @futurepinhead!

We WILL get this thing up, running, and eventually super tuned. She has tons of potential. I just refuse to move on to cosmetics/shopping (aka as the "fun stuff") until functionally we're at 100%.

I'll start down the jumper path tomorrow evening. Thanks again to both of you for the encouragement and advice!

#15 7 years ago
Quoted from themadman:

Try taking a jumper and test firing the coil by jumping the brn-red wire on the coil to ground directly.
If it still reboots then we need to remove the brn-red wire from the coil, and jump the coil to ground again, if it still reboots, remove the diode, try again, if still reboots change the coil.

themadman this is where I stopped. Ran through all steps above and it continued to reboot after every firing. Coil on order - will post once it's installed.

Again, the coil's resistance is 3.4...right where it should be, but who knows...

1 week later
#16 7 years ago

OK, time for an update.

New coil came in...got it installed and for the first time was able to play a complete game. Then I did it again and played another full game. No issues with the game resetting. Made sure that the auto launcher (coil #2) fired several times each game to put it through its paces.

Noticed that the centerfold was no longer opening, so powered down and when into diagnostics. As a matter of habit, fired the auto-launcher in coil test. Game resets.

Now, I am right back where I started - everytime the auto launch fires, the game resets.

It does not seem to be a board, coil, or Brn-Red wire issue....

Starting to get frustrated...

1 week later
#17 7 years ago

Weekend bump for fresh ideas.

#18 7 years ago

So, went back to this last night for a few minutes and discovered something that gives me cause for question... when I remove J-8 and probe the pins inside the connector I get continutity between several of the wires. They are obviously all independently running into the connector, which means that at some place farther back in the chain, they are making contact.

This is the only WhiteStar I have ever owned and don't have a point of reference, but SHOULD there be continuity across these wires at the connector? If not, then I will definitely have to remove the playfield to track down where they are meeting.

Again, there is not continuity across ALL of them, just SOME of them. It may be that only the 50V have continuity with each other and the 20V have continuity with each other... I'll need to look at the schematic and spend some more time making notes to confirm this, but wonder if this is possibly the culprit or another rabbit hole...

#19 7 years ago

Yeah, there should not be continuity I would imagine. One way to know is look at the board itself and see if the traces go in independent directions or go together.

#20 7 years ago

Future, I bet you thought you were DONE troubleshooting this game.

Thanks for your thoughts.

#21 7 years ago

Oh man just seeing all this, I'm sorry this became such a hassle man, I hope you are able to get it 100% soon.

#22 7 years ago

Tsskinne - no worries, it's what pinball is all about, right? We'll figure it out!

#23 7 years ago

you might have continuity if they both go to the same say light, or coil, or closed switch. I don't know what J8 is, I just know on things I have worked on in the past. I would look at the schematic and verify which wires have continuity and what they go to.

#24 7 years ago

Several tests later...

On J8, continuity runs across pins:
1&3
4,5,7
6,8,9

For a simple point of comparison, on J9 (the other high voltage connector) there is continuity across pins:
1,2,4,5

So, it seems that continuity is NOT a problem as the wires that have continuity are all for coils requiring the same voltage, and (as I interpret the schematic) should not be a problem.

To try something new, I went ahead and flipped wires/pins on J8-3 (the cursed auto launch) and J8-6 (the perfectly functioning drop target). This yielded what one would expect - auto launch now performs as as it should (which removes all doubt about a bad coil or diode) and the drop target then became the culprit every time it fired, for causing the game to reset.

This makes me think that even though the game does NOT reset when J8 is disconnected and the auto launch is triggered in diagnostics that my problem must be located on the board.

Before, I order transistors and start replacing components on what was supposed to be a brand new board - can anyone out there refute my logic - please?

Gracias!

#25 7 years ago

Does J8 connect right to the board, or is it a wire connector, if a wire connector, could the problem lie between it and the board, wiring short etc.

#26 7 years ago

J8 is a standard molex 9 slot connnector that fits onto 9 header pins.

Insane , not sure what you mean by a "wire connector".

#27 7 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

J8 is a standard molex 9 slot connnector that fits onto 9 header pins.
insane , not sure what you mean by a "wire connector".

what I meant was does it connect a group of wires to another group of wires. Like these. disregard circle, this was the first pic I could find to illustrate what I meant. Pic is from Pinwiki.

200px-Sinbad_Tilt_Cab_Wired (resized).jpg200px-Sinbad_Tilt_Cab_Wired (resized).jpg

#28 7 years ago

Insane
Ah, got it...J-8 fits directly onto the power driver board.

2 months later
#29 7 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

insane
Ah, got it...J-8 fits directly onto the power driver board.

Did you ever figure it out?

#30 7 years ago

Not yet, but I think I am close...moved all of my issues to an updated thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/100-stern-playboy-fix-it-challenge-experienced-tech-help-needed#post-3668387

#31 7 years ago

You could have mentioned that in this topic before

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