(Topic ID: 270598)

Stern Pirates of the Caribbean is not booting

By PotcSternSwe

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

Hello,

I live in Sweden and just bought my first pinball machine two days ago. The machine that I bought is a Stern Pirates of the Caribbean. At first it was working perfectly but after playing no more than maybe 10 games on it something went very wrong yesterday. When the issues started I was able to play the first ball but as the current was rushing to the coil in the ball though up-kicker the machine turned off (everything but some LEDs in the playfield and the DMD and the light in the backbox). The DMD still looked fine after this happened. After I turned the machine off and on again it was working like normal again but then the same thing happened again and again every time I started the game. One time the same thing happened when I hit the ship on the first ball and ( I assume) too much current rushed to some coil that does something with the ship. I have no idea if this (too much current rushing to the coils) is what actually happened but I instinctively thought that was what happened.

A little later when I turned the machine on again it didn't boot at all and the DMD was looking like this. It looks like all the fuses on the I/O power board are ok and there is 5V, 12V, 18V, 20V and 50V. I don't know if it means anything but there is a flashing L18 LED on the power board. I have no idea what to check next. I'm completely new to pinball and would appreciate all the help I could get with troubleshooting this issue. I don't know if it's relevant but I should mention that to get the machine into my car we had to unscrew the backbox from the cabinet and pull a lot on the cables between the cabinet and backbox. So much that two connectors in the cabinet were disconnected and the flipper buttons didn't work. This was easily fixed by just connecting the two connectors.

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-2
#2 3 years ago

Call Stern

#3 3 years ago

Switch dip #8 to on. Press reset button. Does the game boot into update mode?

#4 3 years ago

Measure the voltages at the +5, -12 and +12 test points on the right center of the I/O Driver board. I suspect your 5V is low.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Measure the voltages at the +5, -12 and +12 test points on the right center of the I/O Driver board. I suspect your 5V is low.

You were right, Schwaggs. I measured 2.62 V on the 5V test point right after I powered on the game. After about 5 min the game booted and I measured 4.5V. I measured again 5 min later and now it was 4.7V.

#6 3 years ago

Sorry, forgot to say thanks for the advice to you YeOldPinPlayer and Schwaggs.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from PotcSternSwe:

You were right, Schwaggs. I measured 2.62 V on the 5V test point right after I powered on the game. After about 5 min the game booted and I measured 4.5V. I measured again 5 min later and now it was 4.7V.

Your 5V regulator (upper right corner in the large silver heat sink on the I/O power board) has the auxiliary black heat sink that can cause this problem. Some games had it, other didn't. It can insulate the voltage regulator (silver TO3 style package) from the rest of the circuit.

You can either remove it entirely or sand the black off the heat sink on both sides around the 2 mounting screws and re-assemble.

You can also try pushing on the regulator to see if that changes the 5V measurement to confirm this is the problem.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Your 5V regulator (upper right corner in the large silver heat sink on the I/O power board) has the auxiliary black heat sink that can cause this problem. Some games had it, other didn't. It can insulate the voltage regulator (silver TO3 style package) from the rest of the circuit.
You can either remove it entirely or sand the black off the heat sink on both sides around the 2 mounting screws and re-assemble.
You can also try pushing on the regulator to see if that changes the 5V measurement to confirm this is the problem.

The game self-healed so I haven't tried your solution with the auxiliary heat sink yet. I still only have 4.7V even though the game is working so I will definitely try this eventually. Is it safe to remove the heat sink all together? I don't understand how it's possible that the heat sink isolates the 5V regulator. Surely the heat sink and screws are not part of the circuit right? That would mean that some current would be going through the screws to ground right?

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from PotcSternSwe:

The game self-healed so I haven't tried your solution with the auxiliary heat sink yet. I still only have 4.7V even though the game is working so I will definitely try this eventually. Is it safe to remove the heat sink all together? I don't understand how it's possible that the heat sink isolates the 5V regulator. Surely the heat sink and screws are not part of the circuit right? That would mean that some current would be going through the screws to ground right?

On the TO3 transistor package, the case of the transistor is indeed the 3rd connection to the transistor (voltage regulator in this case). The mechanical connection provided by the screws is indeed part of the circuit.

I'm not sure why they would have put the black heat sink in there that could cause a bad connection. Possible that the problem is due to oxidation or some other chemical reaction over time.

I would not hesitate to remove it. The large alumnum heat sink should be all you need and this is the was some games were shipped (without the black heatsink).

You can also try tightening the screws to see if that helps but I wouldn't try that until it breaks down the next time. Moving that connection could stop it from working.

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