It will not matter, people forget everytime Stern releases their next game.
It has happened for over 15 years.
(Drum roll)

NOTE:
There is no such thing as a "perfect" game, just like there is no such thing as a "free lunch".

Thousands $ in many cases for HUO games with less than 2500 plays.
All with games "broken in" and problems generally identified.
Those that buy their games and then report "played under 200 games" are by far in most cases complete liars.
There are examples where this is true, but these occur with large collections, or very rare games brought out for special occasions. The closest I think I ever had with my games was HUO AGB, and that was still under 1000 games before being recrated, not 200 games.

"Getting the new box smell" is not a justification to buy NIB game, as a person is just looking for a means to be challenged.
This is such a first world issue that is so beyond comprehension to most people.
20 years ago, under the same conditions of sale, many collectors would refuse to buy NIB, PREFERRING to purchase a used game.
However, even used games fully serviced have issues after shipping.

Buying a NIB game means you are an informed buyer who know how to troubleshoot basic issues that can occur when a game leaves the factory (or warehouse, shop, or dealer) and believes that a game is something you may want to keep for a long time.
People that argue this point and continually refute it, generally don't stick around long in this hobby.
They just don't, and they are some type of people who move onto some other hobby, when they get "bored" (AKA no interest in maintaining their games).
I never say a person has to be a pinball expert on technical repair work, but understanding the functionality and most common causes of problems is critical to avoid a bad experience.
This of course is not going to help with game scrapes on cabinets and playfields.
Another alternative is simply ask for help while unboxing by an experienced collector, which many people do, and most should do.
If owner wants to "plug n' play" and not check anything after unboxing (including flipping up the playfield to see what is going on underneath the hood), that is their prerogative, it is their machine.
If they want to set the game on fire using gasoline out of frustration for fun, do so, if that makes them happy.

For example, when I received my NIB METPM, I had to retap the leg bolt plates of which 2 out of 4 were improperly threaded. The soft metal used for the plates in comparison to the hardened acorn bolts (which are not really that hardened under galvanization either), does not help matters. I thought about straight up replacing them this time, instead of messing with the plates down the road. However, the plates have ALWAYS been softer metal even during BLY/WMS days for a number of reasons. Did I scream at Stern? No, I called my distributor to notify Stern to conduct QC on the issue, and did the work myself.

Hell, I have had all sorts of problems even AFTER I have done a full "10 point check" before powering them up. This is just part of the nature of the devices. I am not saying that a giggled playfield edges are acceptable, but this is actually quite minor in terms of pinball machines, and easily repairable (bondo and sanding). The Sparky scratch could have happened even BEFORE it was installed in the game, which sucks even worse as it should have been caught, but who knows. This can be fixed with a small brush, dab of paint, and micro sanding brush. Reparations could be asked for a new Sparky, if Stern decides to provide some measure of support here. Very fair, just call the distributor. Pick up the phone. Be prepared to replace Sparky yourself, it is not hard, but is a slight PITA.

If a person wants to state they are part of a "big boys" club in pinball, that means not just money, but experience and willingness to be calm and take appropriate action.
Most pinball owners don't wipe their a$$es with $100 bills, but most don't buy NIB pinball machines either.

This is a definite possible cause. My last modern Stern has a very tight playfield in conjunction with the cabinet.
You have to fandangle a little to get it fully in the down locked position without forcing it, as the tolerances were very close.
However, my AGC games have even tighter cabinet dimensions, and vary from game to game, not just from each manufacturer.

No, it was indirect sarcasm related to the posting.
See related verb meaning.
Some people caught the Captain Jack Sparrow moment.
Normal use would be finagle, but this "fit much better".

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=fandangle

Many other people have said exactly the same thing, and were flamed for bringing it up, or not being "diplomatic". Reality is a harsh truth when it comes to manufacturing, warranties, expectations, and technical support with these amusement devices. The regulations are not yet written with private home owner consumers being the primary market, regardless of the sway of the times.

NIB game owners without an "extended 1 year warranty" from a distributor need to be savvy and knuckle up. However, this only covers functionality, not cosmetics.

Perhaps in the future distributors will offer "NIB flaw guarantee" options, but right now it is not offered, or at least none that I know. No major distributor in the 90s offered this either. At that time, it was considered completely absurd.

Very poor QC.
There is no way your machine was properly game tested before final wipedown.
Ecto Googles are an example.
Left ramp optos are another.
Things like this are not very easy to jostle during shipping.
A "10 point check" number was skipped.

Stern does not score points here.
I feel some changes in wind coming very soon across the entire market.

True, as "loose artifacts" DO happen during transport from manufacturer to distributor and distributor to customer/operator/private owner.

Part of life with all coin operated machinery.

The key is to make sure major parts are locked down.

Backglass light panels and speaker panels are notorious for not being prepared properly on used machines.

Do people know you can actually lock down playfields in BLY/WMS games using washers?
Sometimes little things do count.