Baytown, TX
Is it possible to replace Sterns mpu-100 with mpu-200?
(Topic ID: 224508)
Can you check what rom types are on the original MPU or what it's jumpered for? I'm guessing they're
Here are the MPU-200 rom jumpers: www.actionpinball.com/tech/stern_rom.php
Unless you see any weird long jumpers on your MPU-100 it probably has 2 9316s?
Besides from that you should cut E32-E33 and E34-E35 to go back to the slower MPU-100 clock speed and remove U13
Ok, so here's where i'm at now. I just powered up the mpu-200 just to see if i am getting the correct number of led flashes. Using a power supply with plus 5 on tp#5, plus 12 on tp#2 and ground on tp#4 the red led comes straight on and stays on. Any direction as to what might be amiss? I have made no changes to the mpu as of yet. It has the original roms installed. (Ali)
If the roms on the MPU 100 say D2716D then I'd assume they're 2716s and not 9316s, so you'll need to jumper the mpu-200 differently (or maybe not at all, since they often came configured for 2716s stock. However as far as I know MPU-100s can't handle 2716s without modifications. Can you post pictures of the front and back of the board to confirm?
If the led stays on though then that means you've got some issue with the mpu-200 as well. What's wrong with the mpu-100?
Quoted from TxDremz:Ok, so here's where i'm at now. I just powered up the mpu-200 just to see if i am getting the correct number of led flashes. Using a power supply with plus 5 on tp#5, plus 12 on tp#2 and ground on tp#4 the red led comes straight on and stays on. Any direction as to what might be amiss? I have made no changes to the mpu as of yet. It has the original roms installed. (Ali)
The reset / "valid power detection" needs a linear power supply to reset the MPU properly. When using a switching power supply you often get a locked up board when you first power up. Try forcing the /RESET low briefly to see if it starts to boot up. Easiest way to do that on an original MPU boards is to bridge U9 P39 and P40 together with a flat blade screwdriver or whatever.
The mpu-100 has some significant damage due to the battery leaking. I removed the battery and began the repair process. The acid damage is pretty bad at U8. Upon removing the U8 socket to replace it, it got worse! Pads lifting, traces lifting, etc. The mpu 200 that i have came out of an Ali pinball and looks really good. At some point it too had a leaking battery and has been replaced and is still holding a good charge. Visual inspection of the board does not reveal any obvious problems. It looks great. But the led is telling another story....I can post pictures. You are wanting to see the front and the back of the mpu100? Tell you what, I will post pictures of front and back of the 100 and the 200 as well.
Quoted from barakandl:The reset / "valid power detection" needs a linear power supply to reset the MPU properly. When using a switching power supply you often get a locked up board when you first power up. Try forcing the /RESET low briefly to see if it starts to boot up. Easiest way to do that on an original MPU boards is to bridge U9 P39 and P40 together with a flat blade screwdriver or whatever.
Good information. I will do that and see what happens.
Quoted from TxDremz:Bridging pins 39 and 40 done nothing. The led remained lit as if i had done nothing.
your mpu200 is locked up then too =/
Wellesley, ON
The standard 2716 jumper settings on a MPU200 will not work with Wild Fyre ROMs.
To get MPU100 ROMs addressed properly you need to make these changes from the standard 2716 jumper settings:
cut E7 from E5 and connect E5 to E4
cut E14 from E13 and connect E13 to E15
You then have the problem of the extra RAM chip at U13. Most likely you'll need to remove U13 but from memory the Wild Fyre code probably doesn't mask that RAM range out properly.
At the end of the day since you're a working MPU board short you might as well buy one from @barakandl.
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