I have a failed kick out detect microswitch (part #180-5186-00 marco link https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5186-00) and I am looking for an alternative. Marco lists the part as discontinued and the only site I can find it is action pinball. I'm in Canada so shipping here is a challenge from them. Most sites appear to have a similar part (part #180-5186-01 marco link https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5186-01) but nobody is listing it as an alternative to 180-5186-00. I asked Marco and they said the product notes don't indicate they are compatible but it sounds like they are mostly talking about the actuator. Does anyone know if these switches can be swapped or have any other alternatives? The specific game I am dealing with is Stern Simpsons Pinball Party (2003).

Perhaps a better question is whether there is a place to look up the specifications of game switches. Digi-Key has something that looks right if I can swap out the actuator with the one from my dead switch https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/zf-electronics/DB3CB1LB/1083873 It's 0.1A 125v so I'm assuming it should be fine, but I'm not sure operating force it should be. The Digi-Key switch above is 60gf... whatever that means. haha

Any suggestions? The game is relatively unplayable without this switch. I replaced the diode hoping that might be the issue but it did not fix the problem. The only other alternative I know is to break the switch open and try to clean the contacts etc. That's my last resort... it still clicks so it's possible a cleaning might be the key, but I'd rather start with a fresh part.

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Thanks for the response!

My main problem is my own ignorance about switches. I'm not sure how to tell what differentiates these microswitches besides their actuator and the amps they are rated for. Are they all relatively the same body with a different actuator on them? If so, I will definitely grab that switch you mention and either trim it or swap the actuator. I tested the original switch and the problem is that it either does not have continuity at all or it will register for a second and then lose it. So, dirty contacts seems like a possibility? I replaced the diode with a new one so that should be eliminated as a cause. I tested the switch continuity when the diode was removed.

Thanks for the tip about DeOxit. I have never heard of it, but it sounds like it's basically made of naphtha? I'll dribble a bit of that into the button and see what happens. The switch is non-functional already so what do I have to lose?

Thanks! This sounds relatively straightforward.

This is awesome info. Thanks so much guys! I'm going to go on a switch binge now.

Switches were delivered from digikey already and they are a perfect replacement. Switches cost less, shipping cost less, and shipping was weeks faster than going through a pinball distributor in the States. As flynnibus mentioned I wasn't sure what force rating I needed but I went with 60gf as it seemed middle of the road and I figured a little less was better than too much. I'll also have to try that deoxit at some point if I can find it up here.

Thanks to all who took the time to answer. Much appreciated!

I ordered some of these switches: ZF #DB3CB1LB digikey#CH880-ND (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/zf-electronics/DB3CB1LB/1083873)
and some of these for DIY actuators: ZF #6141234 digikey#CH669-ND (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/zf-electronics/6141234/418187)

Yeah, I hear you but it's always a juggling act of priorities, especially when ordering from Canada. A single DB5 switch from PBL costs $60 CDN when you factor in the cheapest shipping option provided. Ordering the same switch from a Canadian pinball supplier is still $30 since they all seem to charge $24 for domestic shipping. By comparison, digi-key is $13 CDN including shipping and it arrives in 1-2 days instead of 1-2 weeks.

So for this situation I only needed the switch and it was a game breaker so wanted it asap. I wasn't able to find a DB5 for anywhere near the same price. It's rated for 100,000 cycles electrically and 15,000,000 mechanically so even if I get half of that life it could very well outlast my ownership of the pin. Well... it's TSPP so I may just eventually have it buried with me.

Oh yeah, no worries. I figured that was what he was doing so I just expanded a bit on why I went the route I did, just in case it might help someone else in the future. Ordering parts from Canada is a serious a buzz kill due to the crazy shipping costs. If there is any way to reduce cost it it's a huge win, especially for a commonly failing part like this.

You must be frustrated with the constant switch failures. Besides that Twidec switch from Amazon posted above, I haven't seen any alternate manufacturers. I was hoping there would be a few different sources but it seems to be pretty limited. When I spoke with the guy from Marco he indicated that the specific switch I wanted has been on backorder for 5-6 months and they still have no ETA for new stock. If there was a factory QA issue like you said, that might explain the lack of new stock while they address it. Just a guess though.