Hello All,

I just tried to turn my Meteor on after replacing the upper flipper coil. As soon as I flipped the on/off switch it blew the F6 fuse on the power driver board which is for the incoming line voltage. Could it be possible that my old flipper coil went bad because of something and that is causing the F6 fuse to blow? I don't want to ruin my new coil.

I'm not much of a tech, does anyone know what I should look at?

Thanks!

It's also probably worth mentioning that before I replaced the upper coil the game would blow the flipper fuse. I think it did this once I hit a flipper button or started a game, but I'm pretty sure it did not blow the flipper fuse when I would first turned the game on.

I just inspected the power cord, it looks good, no breaks or anything in the cord itself. Looked at the filter everything looks good on it. Plugged the game in and plugged a light into the service outlet and it lites up. Also did a visual inspection on the on/off switch, nothing out of the ordinary on it.

I just did something very similar. I disconnected the three connectors on the bridge rectifier board and turned the game on, no fuses blew. I then added the bottom connector, no fuses blew, I then added the top right (when looking at the board) and it instantly blew F4. I left the blown F4 fuse in it then added the last connector, it blew F6. I then added new F4 and F6 fuses, powered it up, instantly blew F6, I thought it blew F4 because the fuse looked like the wire element "bent" a little when I powered it up, but pulled it out, checked with DMM and it shows continuity.

I didn't have to use the soldering iron today when changing the coil because someone wire nutted all of the coil wires last time they changed the coil out. So if there is any solder it was there before all this started happening, so I pretty much rule out solder splatters at this point.

Could it be anything on the playfield since a game was never started?

Is there more than one bridge on the board and if so which one do I need to test? Thanks!

Thanks, I'll check it out and report back. If this bridge would be bad could it also be causing the F6 fuse to blow?

I went to test BR3. The only bridge testing I'm familiar with is on WPC power driver board with the bridge having an offset leg. I looked at the bridges on this board and didn't see an offset leg, but saw a + and -. Are these the DC legs? if so I tested it correctly using the test method in pinwiki for testing the small bridge rectifiers on a dmd control board on WPC games (section 4.22.7) Three of the readings were in the .36 range, one didn't give a reading, I'm assuming a short. I tested the other bridges and they were all reading in the .55 range, except for one on BR1, probably should replace that one also while board is out. Can anyone tell me if I performed the test correctly?

I also noticed there was a slo-blow 5amp in F4, I replaced it with a fast blow and turned the game on, it instantly blew the F4, but not the F6 this time. I'm guessing the slo-blo 5A in F4 was like being over fused and possibly caused F6 to blow, hopefully/maybe?

I also did a continuity test on the knocker coil and it tested okay

BR_(resized).JPG

Ok, I will check all the coils. The upper flipper did quit working right before this happened so hopefully that was the cause; I just replaced the coil last weekend.