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(Topic ID: 239785)

Stern Meteor sound looping


By RTSMikeM

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by brenna98
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

There have been 3 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

MPU-Close-Up (resized).jpg
New-Sound-Board (resized).jpg
MPU (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

I've got a 79 Stern Meteor I'm trying get working.
I've replaced the rectifier with a new board (and repinned its connectors) and also replaced the SB-300 sound board with a new one from ksarcade.net
I've checked all connectors and solder joints on the MPU. They look great.

The machine seems to boot up ok (I get the 7 beeps)
However once I add a credit to the machine and hit the button, the sound starts looping 2 low tones over and over like its stuck.

I've attached a link to a sound file on youtube so you can hear my issue:

Any ideas on what that might be or how to solve it?

#2 1 year ago

sure you got the top connector on the right way?
I have a Dracula, that drove me nuts until I realized
the top connector was on backwards.

#3 1 year ago

Is it the original MPU or aftermarket?

#4 1 year ago

I've posted pictures of the new sound board and the MPU.
The MPU looks like it has 40 year old stickers on it...
So my guess is that it's original.

The sound did work a few times (hit and miss) when we 1st got the machine.
That was before all the work on it.

Would stuck drop targets do this?
I'm not sure what else I could have borked.

MPU (resized).jpgNew-Sound-Board (resized).jpg
#5 1 year ago

If it was working properly at one time, then I would lean more towards the ribbon cables being bad. If it was always messed up then I would suggest getting new 5101's. This game and other SB 300 sterns need the fast access 5101's to play their sounds correctly.

#6 1 year ago

I've only owned a pinball machine about a week.
I can't find anything that say's "5101" on it in the Meteor boards.
Also I wouldn't know a fast 5101 from a slow one!

Also how can the ribbon cables just go bad sitting there?

I included a close up picture of the MPU, hopefully you could point out what needs replacing.
Thanks!

MPU-Close-Up (resized).jpg
#7 1 year ago

The ribbon cables are notorious for going bad in this era of stern. The guy that you got the sound board from sells a new set. The 5101s are at u8 and u13. Start with the ribbon cables, and then we can diagnose further is need be.

2 weeks later
#8 1 year ago

I replaced both ribbon cables and the 5101 chips at U8 and U13. No dice.
Still does the exact same thing.

I WAS working intermittently when I got it. Now not at all. Could a stuck target do this?
I there somebody who could go through the board and test it out?

What do I do next?

#9 1 year ago

I am having the sane ussue and the ball isnt ejecting. I have been told to check the fuse on the bottom of the playfield and the solenoid.

#10 1 year ago

My fuse is good. So that isn't the issue. Is your sound looping too?

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from RTSMikeM:

My fuse is good. So that isn't the issue. Is your sound looping too?

Yes, just like yours.
All my fuses are good.
Are your coils firing when you run a self test?

#12 1 year ago

Does solenoid test work? If no check the fuse under the PF near the flippers.

I think the background noise is continuously starting over because the game is not feeding the ball to the shooter lane is my guess. Tries to feed the ball to shoot lane. Coil doesnt fire. Game sees ball is still in trough. Does end of ball routine which makes the background noise starts over. And that goes on for a never ending loop.

1 week later
#13 1 year ago

Your explanation sounds right.

The playfield fuse is good.

How do I run the solenoid test?
And what should I expect when I run it?

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from RTSMikeM:

Your explanation sounds right.
The playfield fuse is good.
How do I run the solenoid test?
And what should I expect when I run it?

Hit the test button on the coin door twice.
The game will fire coils in order, from 1 to 2x. The coil number that is firing should appear on the displays. In the 20s, the 'coils' are sounds. That is normal. It will then repeat the process.

#15 1 year ago

Shouldnt this be in the vintage pinball area and not posted in the modern Stern section ?

#16 1 year ago

I had a similar problem and it ended up being my aftermarket driver board putting out too much voltage.

#17 1 year ago

Have hitting the button twice, the only coil that appears to fire is the "knocker" which signals a free game.
I hear a bunch of sounds but no coils seem to fire other that the knocker.

#18 1 year ago

Also the coil never fires the ball into the shooter lane either, when I hit the start button.

#19 1 year ago

Unless I don't know how to run a multi-meter...
I just found out my rectifier board tap TP5 has only 22 volts AC instead of 43 volts DC!
It's a brand new aftermarket board.
My flippers are working. I can't figure this out...

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from RTSMikeM:

Also the coil never fires the ball into the shooter lane either, when I hit the start button.

i think the issue is lack of solenoid power on the PF. Sound repeats because the game sees the ball constantly in the outhole so it does its end of ball stuff on a loop.

If the 43v was gone entirely the game would not boot up all the way. So most likely situation is the solenoid fuse is probably blown on pf. look under pf near the flippers. Should be 1.5a slow blow or so. Check for 43v dc on each side of this fuse. If missing from both sides of the fuse check rectifier board connectors like the playfield plug. Make sure you re pinned it proper.

#21 1 year ago

Can you tell me which connector and which out pin on that board should have 43 volts?

#22 1 year ago

its in the manual. transformer assembly / rectifier schematic page. j1 p6

3 weeks later
#23 1 year ago

Well I fixed it. Turns out the playfield fuse WAS bad! It looked perfect with visual inspection. The Ohm meter told a different story.
Put in a new fuse and it's working again!
Never assume a fuse is good, even if it looks fine.

#24 1 year ago

Another tip: Had this similar problem show up at a show.
All fuses tested good on the rectifier board, board was brand new. Turned out the fuse clip for the PF solenoids was a bit loose. With fuses out, pinch together to create more "grab" for the fuse.

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