(Topic ID: 293995)

Completed: Stern Meteor Restoration with BSOS 2021 Code

By bigguybbr

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 119 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by shall
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

meteor (resized).png
D0629268-1B99-4301-914A-1C5C9C133322 (resized).jpeg
2D48C7D1-692F-4D71-82BF-8BBDE37662AB (resized).jpeg
134443DD-F701-4BA1-B17D-1ABB76F92267 (resized).jpeg
52C7120E-F178-4324-A4BA-B21CB8C9C2AB (resized).jpeg
3DA57A30-AF9B-4FCE-883B-2DF27A9175CB (resized).jpeg
6D10787F-7983-4AEE-AADA-A87F8FA3B7ED (resized).jpeg
9B3D3501-8F63-4E53-8092-BEF038B06360 (resized).jpeg
A9E5A3F1-A438-4070-B119-351109536DD4 (resized).jpeg
9C626531-63BA-4C13-963B-48380B345EE6 (resized).jpeg
F89A3ED4-6777-4F1C-AE46-DA408EBF410A (resized).jpeg
F6327C3C-7B69-4ADE-80B9-C1D5A638DD74 (resized).jpeg
Capture (resized).PNG
IMG_1913 (resized).JPG
IMG_1914 (resized).JPG
91A72BA5-4625-4B81-BF76-A08B5ECA7C58 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bigguybbr.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 2 years ago

It's finally time to start on my latest restoration project. After seeing Dick Hammil's awesome work with the Bally Stern OS project and new rule set for Meteor, I decided to pick one up for myself. I was lucky enough that Marshall over at Little Shop of Games had 2 of them. I got it home a few weeks ago and set to putting together the Arduino Controller to bring some new lighting and sound to this great shooter. Now that it is playing like a completely new machine, it's time to make it look and operate like new again.

IMG_1896 (resized).JPGIMG_1896 (resized).JPGIMG_1910 (resized).JPGIMG_1910 (resized).JPGIMG_1911 (resized).JPGIMG_1911 (resized).JPG

#3 2 years ago

First off we have the usual suspects. Broken and burn plastics. Par for the course of a game that is just older than I am. Luckily Steve Young sells hot stamped replacements for the drop targets and pop bumper caps. The funny thing is that the drop targets in the game are clustered as "1 1 1", "2 2 2" and "3 3 3", but the replacements come in bags of "1 2 3"

Maybe that's why all my targets are mismatched

IMG_1903 (resized).JPGIMG_1903 (resized).JPGIMG_1904 (resized).JPGIMG_1904 (resized).JPGIMG_1905 (resized).JPGIMG_1905 (resized).JPGIMG_1996 (resized).JPGIMG_1996 (resized).JPG
#4 2 years ago

Incase anyone hasn't seen the Bally Stern OS code project for this game, check it out here, it's awesome.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979

One of the first things I did on this was to wire up my own arduino controller and wave trigger to get this going. Here is a video showing how mine boots up to the original rom, and with the flick of a switch to the new code. The switch both toggles a jumper pin on the new controller board, but also toggles the speaker connection to the in cabinet speaker now being driven by a small 2.1 channel amplifier that also powers 2 small speakers in the head.

IMG_1920 (resized).JPGIMG_1920 (resized).JPG
#5 2 years ago

While I was waiting for parts, I disassembled the coin door. I gave the smaller parts a tumble in crushed walnut shells and flitz. The door skin I did my best trying to get it back to some semblance of straight and flat, and put a coat of rustoleum hammered on it. The coin door had a credit button on it that some previous home owner must had added at some point. I don't mind it, so I'm leaving it for now. I may come back to it when the new coin slot shows up to replace the center one that looks like it took a screw driver to it. It's been a tough life for this old Meteor. I'm also waiting on some new decals for the door.

Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNGIMG_1992 (resized).JPGIMG_1992 (resized).JPGIMG_1993 (resized).JPGIMG_1993 (resized).JPG

#6 2 years ago

I spent my day Saturday on breaking this down. I have to say I'm really impressed that there aren't more hacks on this machine. Other than a couple of odd sized screws jammed in, I haven't found any abuse yet other than the usual neglect.

IMG_1988 (resized).JPGIMG_1988 (resized).JPG

#7 2 years ago

I think half of my posts were smashed. I still gave them a good once over with the ultrasonic cleaner just to see if any were salvageable. For other Meteor owners, I had 37 of the tall faceted posts, and a mix of 22 shorter faceted and star posts. Sounds like from other threads these proportions were all over the place depending on who was making the playfield that day.

IMG_1933 (resized).JPGIMG_1933 (resized).JPGIMG_1938 (resized).JPGIMG_1938 (resized).JPGIMG_1939 (resized).JPGIMG_1939 (resized).JPGIMG_1940 (resized).JPGIMG_1940 (resized).JPGIMG_1941 (resized).JPGIMG_1941 (resized).JPGIMG_1963 (resized).JPGIMG_1963 (resized).JPGIMG_1964 (resized).JPGIMG_1964 (resized).JPG
#8 2 years ago

I tried my luck at sanding out a deep gouge in my lockdown bar. You can still see it, but it's definitely not as noticeable as it was before. I may go back with some finer grit and spend some more time on it, but for now it's good enough.

IMG_1994 (resized).JPGIMG_1994 (resized).JPGIMG_1995 (resized).JPGIMG_1995 (resized).JPG
#9 2 years ago

Swapped the plasmas for pinscores. Let me know if any one needs the plasmas. They all still work.

IMG_1991 (resized).JPGIMG_1991 (resized).JPG
#10 2 years ago

I used Jeff PinballPimp trick of using acetone for stripping down the cabinet. Works like a champ and you don't create all the dust you would sanding. Then I spent some time filling all the nicks and holes and getting it sanded and read for paint.

https://www.facebook.com/pinballpimp/videos/1872389246177571/

IMG_1971 (resized).JPGIMG_1971 (resized).JPGIMG_1972 (resized).JPGIMG_1972 (resized).JPG

#11 2 years ago

So I tried respraying my chewed up apron, and the trim for the back glass that had gotten some surface rust on it. Unfortunately the paint isn't adhering well, so I'm reaching out to a local powder coating place to get them powder coated.

The other trouble I was having was trying to source decals to restore the apron. Pinball Rescue no longer has any in stock, and has shut down their operations. I was very lucky that semicolin had an extra set he is sending me.

Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNGIMG_1981 (resized).JPGIMG_1981 (resized).JPG
#12 2 years ago

Shiny bucket of parts from the top of the playfield, fresh out of the tumbler

IMG_1989 (resized).JPGIMG_1989 (resized).JPG
#14 2 years ago
Quoted from JLay:

Looking great, love seeing these games get cleaned up. What's the acetone process you mentioned for the cabinet? I will be stripping my stars later this year and will likely use that to minimize dust...

If you click the link in the post, Jeff has a time lapse video of how he does it

#15 2 years ago

I got some presents from CPR!

19CE1671-D269-4E54-8A1C-61A00ADE6060 (resized).jpeg19CE1671-D269-4E54-8A1C-61A00ADE6060 (resized).jpeg91F651FC-6E1F-4F86-92CD-2B303F68CE45 (resized).jpeg91F651FC-6E1F-4F86-92CD-2B303F68CE45 (resized).jpegC85B8EC2-E49A-4851-82C4-1B1FB589B1A9 (resized).jpegC85B8EC2-E49A-4851-82C4-1B1FB589B1A9 (resized).jpeg
#16 2 years ago

My old backglass wasn’t terrible so I gave it a quick hit of triple clear to save it from any more paint loss. Maybe I’ll hang it on a wall someday.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#18 2 years ago

A bunch of you have reached out about the 6 digit plasma displays. I don’t know what a fair price is for those. Once I get an idea of what they are worth I’ll get back to you or just post them on market. Stay tuned…

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I still have some of my coin door light shields that keep the LED lamps shinning through the coin door instead of being visible between the lockdown bar and playfield. Worked out great on mine.

I think I remember seeing those. You 3D printed them right?

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Looks like CPR corrected the missing text on the PF. I've already had the decal applied and recleared (the clear was crap on my PF anyway, felt ridgy like potato chips). I got crickets from CPR's customer service when I brought these issues up. Did they put the grey on the back of the PF now as well?
None of the original posts were star posts, they were all the smooth-y faceted type. The bottoms disintegrate with some playfield cleaners.
Nice job on the coin door. I need to start doing that on my fixups.

I was happy to see they added the text. Like I said, the playfield is great except for those small issues. As for the back, I need to check again but I feel like it may have been clear.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Did they put the grey on the back of the PF now as well?

Shared in the other post too, but finally got a chance to snap a pic. Natural finish on the under side of mine.

5193654B-58A3-49BF-B5EC-ABA64D7A1BD5 (resized).jpeg5193654B-58A3-49BF-B5EC-ABA64D7A1BD5 (resized).jpeg
#25 2 years ago

First primer coat. The wood sucked it right up. I’ll wait till it dries to find all the nicks and cracks to fill.

102B6609-7BB1-41E3-B572-C7B94DA6266E (resized).jpeg102B6609-7BB1-41E3-B572-C7B94DA6266E (resized).jpeg5FA60841-66EB-45CA-94DF-E77BAB4F7283 (resized).jpeg5FA60841-66EB-45CA-94DF-E77BAB4F7283 (resized).jpegD930D3A1-522F-4A92-ABBE-FC826162C372 (resized).jpegD930D3A1-522F-4A92-ABBE-FC826162C372 (resized).jpegF68825CB-4CE6-4620-BF22-3FD7BB0817A7 (resized).jpegF68825CB-4CE6-4620-BF22-3FD7BB0817A7 (resized).jpeg
#27 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I dont see that coming back at this point.

Doesn’t bother me. I think it helps prevent getting gray paint in the inserts, so that’s a plus

#29 2 years ago

After the primer, I rubbed the cabinet down with some fine steel wool and I tried aqua coat for the first time. If you haven’t used it, it’s a grain filler that goes on almost like butchers wax. You apply with a squeegee and then wipe off the excess. It dries clear and hard, so be sure to wipe up any excess to save from having to block sand excessively between coats. After that was dry, I applied 2 more quick coats of black. I’ll probably try to get on at least 2 more tomorrow before stencils on Saturday or Sunday.

9540B7C5-5178-423B-8E49-085AEF9BA8AF (resized).jpeg9540B7C5-5178-423B-8E49-085AEF9BA8AF (resized).jpegD92C83B8-5760-4F3E-9EC0-39930FEB6281 (resized).jpegD92C83B8-5760-4F3E-9EC0-39930FEB6281 (resized).jpegE1D6BA38-1F89-4C76-90E2-BF2874FFB664 (resized).jpegE1D6BA38-1F89-4C76-90E2-BF2874FFB664 (resized).jpegFDEC5497-8E2D-42D3-BA70-71C8121B945D (resized).jpegFDEC5497-8E2D-42D3-BA70-71C8121B945D (resized).jpeg

1EAE91D0-CB10-4DE8-B127-4FBD9A2CB57C (resized).jpeg1EAE91D0-CB10-4DE8-B127-4FBD9A2CB57C (resized).jpeg
#30 2 years ago

Today my lock down bar receiver from Mantis Amusements came in and it’s perfect. I’ve never used them before, but the quality is top notch. I also got in the decals for my coin door, so that’s looking the part now.

2F290565-36C5-4415-B5D5-C55626DC0292 (resized).jpeg2F290565-36C5-4415-B5D5-C55626DC0292 (resized).jpeg37192A43-537B-4951-BC53-FF680F743253 (resized).jpeg37192A43-537B-4951-BC53-FF680F743253 (resized).jpeg
#35 2 years ago

Started the day off wet sanding and putting another coat on the cabinet. Started painting the speaker ring too.

69A7F2C4-E000-41B0-A113-0137C14108C2 (resized).jpeg69A7F2C4-E000-41B0-A113-0137C14108C2 (resized).jpeg8DA677FE-E7BB-4848-8BC9-CD9D03B7EF63 (resized).jpeg8DA677FE-E7BB-4848-8BC9-CD9D03B7EF63 (resized).jpeg
#36 2 years ago

Next up was making a new set of rails for the playfield to replace the ratty old vinyl covered ones.

Did you know when using a miter saw that keeping a small piece of wood behind your work piece helps prevent tear out (splinters)?

0B4E754B-A264-45D6-B66F-4B3AA31334A7 (resized).jpeg0B4E754B-A264-45D6-B66F-4B3AA31334A7 (resized).jpeg22DCFE20-E4EF-40CC-B9C2-3D1B5BCAC1C8 (resized).jpeg22DCFE20-E4EF-40CC-B9C2-3D1B5BCAC1C8 (resized).jpeg7DB56EDB-CFA6-493A-A432-DEB7C19B18E6 (resized).jpeg7DB56EDB-CFA6-493A-A432-DEB7C19B18E6 (resized).jpeg
#37 2 years ago

My new rectifier board arrived today so it was time to retire the original. While I was at it, I cut a new piece of plywood to mount the transformer on and started to paint it.

244924BB-EAC9-4C30-8868-D6CB4C559C4F (resized).jpeg244924BB-EAC9-4C30-8868-D6CB4C559C4F (resized).jpeg283E3331-A9BE-45C6-9DDF-B07D78F92E8A (resized).jpeg283E3331-A9BE-45C6-9DDF-B07D78F92E8A (resized).jpeg2C6715D8-8951-4257-B863-0BDA5F79F1E4 (resized).jpeg2C6715D8-8951-4257-B863-0BDA5F79F1E4 (resized).jpeg4492DF94-27CA-4683-B91E-249868625A5F (resized).jpeg4492DF94-27CA-4683-B91E-249868625A5F (resized).jpeg70B18D3C-D6FA-4514-B9DA-063910CF8572 (resized).jpeg70B18D3C-D6FA-4514-B9DA-063910CF8572 (resized).jpeg85D09D06-72EF-4BA1-8CB0-DF1107AB9CDD (resized).jpeg85D09D06-72EF-4BA1-8CB0-DF1107AB9CDD (resized).jpegACB4690B-BBC8-46D6-B6AD-ADD53CDADDD5 (resized).jpegACB4690B-BBC8-46D6-B6AD-ADD53CDADDD5 (resized).jpeg
#39 2 years ago

Wanted to see what it would look like with a pop of color by painting a sample of the rails purple. I think I like the original black better ‍

E0775081-4069-49E3-A8D6-F9027F34AB1E (resized).jpegE0775081-4069-49E3-A8D6-F9027F34AB1E (resized).jpeg

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from shall:

The coin door looks great, what paint did you use?

Rustoleum Hammered finish silver. Saw a few other pinsiders use it to great effect on their coin doors. It worked great on my old Williams EM too when I redid that one.

F8D34549-28E0-4F7A-AA0D-F55A49D80926 (resized).jpegF8D34549-28E0-4F7A-AA0D-F55A49D80926 (resized).jpeg
#43 2 years ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I have a similar shape Meteor here that is destined for a fate like yours. I agree the black rails work better, I did use a few purple rubbers around the purple areas of the PF. In doing my Meteor I plan to powder coat the legs/rails/lockdown red. You going for original or fancy, I want to do a one of a kind. Here's my topper with the lights before power supply issues presented. Need to completely overhaul the electrical.
[quoted image]

That topper is awesome. Really creative stuff. Do you have it tied into any feature lights?

#44 2 years ago

Mounted the transformer and rectifier to the new board. All ready to go back in when the cabinet is done. The old board is ready for the garbage.

6F4124B2-CBD2-40B8-8DAD-48468EFE37F4 (resized).jpeg6F4124B2-CBD2-40B8-8DAD-48468EFE37F4 (resized).jpeg9061E465-4B43-4580-9AFD-893DE017C66A (resized).jpeg9061E465-4B43-4580-9AFD-893DE017C66A (resized).jpeg

EA661856-456C-473D-B4B7-E3B01A0C8BF6 (resized).jpegEA661856-456C-473D-B4B7-E3B01A0C8BF6 (resized).jpeg
#45 2 years ago

I made a little mod for my cabinet. My old playfield was gouged by the playfield support brackets, and I want to avoid that in the future. I added some nylon runners to help stop that in the future.

3E1315BD-FE36-4897-908A-1138B64FF760 (resized).jpeg3E1315BD-FE36-4897-908A-1138B64FF760 (resized).jpeg7ABCAD16-8B89-441F-B03D-ABF84262B717 (resized).jpeg7ABCAD16-8B89-441F-B03D-ABF84262B717 (resized).jpeg

#46 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I made a little mod for my cabinet. My old playfield was gouged by the playfield support brackets, and I want to avoid that in the future. I added some nylon runners to help stop that in the future.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I made a little mod for my cabinet. My old playfield was gouged by the playfield support brackets , and I want to avoid that in the future. I added some nylon runners to help stop that in the future.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#48 2 years ago

Spent some time with the buffing wheel. The shiny stuff wasn’t so shiny any more.

7EAA4AE2-82E2-406F-8FBD-54BB06B4899A (resized).jpeg7EAA4AE2-82E2-406F-8FBD-54BB06B4899A (resized).jpeg
#49 2 years ago

Disassembled the insert so I could repaint it to make it white again. I also took the display brackets and tossed them in the ultrasonic cleaner to get the crap off them and then threw a coat of clear on to keep them from oxidizing again along with the hinge and rest of the hardware.

1F45DFEF-91F3-448A-B862-DB4A8D5AA694 (resized).jpeg1F45DFEF-91F3-448A-B862-DB4A8D5AA694 (resized).jpegB04F428A-37D7-470A-9729-00DF23F4F4CD (resized).jpegB04F428A-37D7-470A-9729-00DF23F4F4CD (resized).jpegD6ABA86F-8064-4075-B337-7B997B1C989C (resized).jpegD6ABA86F-8064-4075-B337-7B997B1C989C (resized).jpegDE780227-089D-4A33-9003-330EC48F9EC8 (resized).jpegDE780227-089D-4A33-9003-330EC48F9EC8 (resized).jpeg

#51 2 years ago

Moved the cabinet into the house today since it’s been humid to give it a little more time to dry.

I spent the day depopulating the old playfield. I then ran all the wiring through the dishwasher. Once it came out I blew out the connectors and tossed the plungers and coil stops in the tumbler.

2A395701-2B11-4F5C-B62C-9E1906A14529 (resized).jpeg2A395701-2B11-4F5C-B62C-9E1906A14529 (resized).jpeg9175C5D3-A8B0-42BB-BDED-DFC687AD73AF (resized).jpeg9175C5D3-A8B0-42BB-BDED-DFC687AD73AF (resized).jpegABE4CE18-3D68-4DAA-8DDD-04AC9F1BC1CA (resized).jpegABE4CE18-3D68-4DAA-8DDD-04AC9F1BC1CA (resized).jpeg

#52 2 years ago

Side by side of old and new.

EF78CEFF-0744-4BBB-A0A6-DC34669BF364 (resized).jpegEF78CEFF-0744-4BBB-A0A6-DC34669BF364 (resized).jpeg
#53 2 years ago

Detangling the wire harness is a real pain in the butt

125A2431-64C9-4181-B53E-B3FDBE4D0604 (resized).jpeg125A2431-64C9-4181-B53E-B3FDBE4D0604 (resized).jpeg
#55 2 years ago

Today was all about repopulating the playfield. If you haven’t yet, read vid1900 guide on populating a playfield. There are some great tips there. A few more hours in the day and I would have finished.

2DB7D19D-62B9-477D-B9F6-BB11EF8F7194 (resized).jpeg2DB7D19D-62B9-477D-B9F6-BB11EF8F7194 (resized).jpeg4D370E45-EBBA-4280-9124-98834A082E99 (resized).jpeg4D370E45-EBBA-4280-9124-98834A082E99 (resized).jpeg79AE7DA7-DFA3-4E6F-90A6-F7DC5601986F (resized).jpeg79AE7DA7-DFA3-4E6F-90A6-F7DC5601986F (resized).jpegEEB662BC-2315-4864-961D-4FC8D08F2930 (resized).jpegEEB662BC-2315-4864-961D-4FC8D08F2930 (resized).jpeg

#56 2 years ago

DIY drill stop made from a dowel on the drill press. You can make 50 of them for around $1.50

I like this because you can also use it as a depth gauge by putting a bit in the old play field, slide the dowel over the bit, then lock your drill chuck onto the remaining shank of the bit hanging out. Violla! You have the depth set to the same as the old play field without measuring anything.

F4592885-2DC7-4FB9-BB8C-34BB55D32B4F (resized).jpegF4592885-2DC7-4FB9-BB8C-34BB55D32B4F (resized).jpeg

#57 2 years ago

I forgot to add, that while I was putting everything back, I also used the extra holes in the playfield to wire up some additional bayonet sockets. There are 2 under the upper plastics, and 2 under the lower side plastics. For the lowers I’ll probably use some bendies and try to get a little more light directed at the middle of the playfield.

I also swapped out the target assembly. Hopefully the new one produces fewer air balls. I smacked the glass hard a bunch of times when hitting that target.

Lastly I put on all new flipper mechs. I kept the old coil for the upper flipper. It’s a little weaker than the lower flippers, so it’ll hopefully not destroy all the posts behind the meteor targets.

Now I just need to swap out all the drop targets and screw the assemblies back on, then solder the leads to the ball ejector coil and the playfield is all back together.

#59 2 years ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Looks great!
I'm at the sanding my cleared playfield
stage right now on mine and.then my
FIRST playfield swap.

Nice! This is my first as well. Not all that bad, kinda fun, just takes time. The worst is the hesitancy to drill through new clear coat to install all your posts. It's nerve wracking trying not to screw up.

#61 2 years ago

Today I cleaned up my drop targets. I took a scotch brite wheel to get the oxidation off and then hit each with a light coat of clear. Then I installed the new got stamped drop targets from Pinball Resource.

EADA7DD8-B4E2-42AB-A66D-836AE1B8E1F8 (resized).jpegEADA7DD8-B4E2-42AB-A66D-836AE1B8E1F8 (resized).jpeg
#62 2 years ago

As I was finishing up my playfield swap, I had to readjust my #3 drop target bank since one of the drops was getting hung up. This probably wouldn’t have been an issue with the chicklet style, but with the hot stamped ones I got it with the larger top were getting stuck.

BD7F50D4-8E33-4D19-980B-5A67E1A04A72 (resized).jpegBD7F50D4-8E33-4D19-980B-5A67E1A04A72 (resized).jpeg
#64 2 years ago

Hit the tilt board that I cleaned up previously with a coat of paint. Looking good to go in the cabinet now.

47B4BB66-3812-4BB3-BA09-91A741BFE962 (resized).jpeg47B4BB66-3812-4BB3-BA09-91A741BFE962 (resized).jpeg72631304-CC43-44AC-B82E-0CE7F57700CA (resized).jpeg72631304-CC43-44AC-B82E-0CE7F57700CA (resized).jpeg
#66 2 years ago

So back to my drop target issue. Something didn’t sit right so I grabbed out my calipers. Notice anything? That’s right, the slot for the #3 drop target 0.3” smaller that the others and than the original playfield. I sent the guys from CPR an email to check their CAD file.

It’s not the end of the world. I was able to get it so my drop targets fall reliably and completely, but it is odd that it was off that much.

3FF837AF-9946-4DF6-95CC-2D73590609D5 (resized).jpeg3FF837AF-9946-4DF6-95CC-2D73590609D5 (resized).jpeg4A9F221C-483F-4584-9DEE-2F8A73DD57A1 (resized).jpeg4A9F221C-483F-4584-9DEE-2F8A73DD57A1 (resized).jpeg
#67 2 years ago

Playfield done!

8A17DA4F-3CB7-47FB-8416-3586C5F013AF (resized).jpeg8A17DA4F-3CB7-47FB-8416-3586C5F013AF (resized).jpegDBE0A518-7CB7-46A8-95DC-93304F5AD9B3 (resized).jpegDBE0A518-7CB7-46A8-95DC-93304F5AD9B3 (resized).jpeg
#68 2 years ago

I forgot to add, when you put the dead bumpers in, you really have to push them down hard.

I thought my leads for the lights were a little short which seemed odd, then I realized I could push the dead bumpers in further and they clicked into place

#75 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Just FYI... If you plan on using the underside metal rails that run lengthwise along the PF edge to prevent warping, those screws securing the nylon runners are going to be a problem. The metal rails go into that space. I'd rather have a stable playfield than worry about underside scratches that no one will ever see.
Perhaps your Meteor didn't come with the rails. I've seen some both with & without the rails from the factory.
You are doing some uncommon things. I'm curious to see close up pics of your cabinet, and if you really were able to achieve a smooth glass surface after using that Aqua-Coat. I've never heard of that before. I'm more of a prime-sand-prime-sand guy, but always down for new ideas.

.

My playfield didn’t come with the rails. I looked at ordering them, but the shipping alone was +$50 so I decided to use the $4 worth of nylon.

Jeff Miller (Pinball Pimp) gave me the tip to use Durham’s Rock Hard as a grain filler. It worked well on my last restoration (pic below) but it’s a bit of a pain to work with so I’m trying AquaCoat

4DC56151-9BC7-47B6-9F15-61B90041F868 (resized).jpeg4DC56151-9BC7-47B6-9F15-61B90041F868 (resized).jpeg
#76 2 years ago

Prepping for the first color to go on. I was able to sneak out and get the head done on my lunch break and will do the main body of the cabinet tonight after dinner when I can recruit the wife to help me peel the paint mask. She has much steadier hands than I have, and I am thankful for it.

I had a couple of spots where the basecoat paint didn't adhere well and lifted with the masking tape. I'll have to touch up those spots before I clear coat.

IMG_2098 (resized).JPGIMG_2098 (resized).JPGIMG_2101 (resized).JPGIMG_2101 (resized).JPG

#77 2 years ago

Fixed my own screw up. Was trying to use a dental pick to clear the star roll overs to get it moving freely when my heart sank as the clear coat slightly lifted on part of it. I got some "Plastic Surgery" glue and a syringe and was able to get it back to being clear. There is a very fine line still visible, but you really have to stare hard to find it.

IMG_2099 (resized).JPGIMG_2099 (resized).JPGIMG_2100 (resized).JPGIMG_2100 (resized).JPG
#78 2 years ago

First color on. Had some more undercoat lift off. The heat and humidity really messed with how this paint cured, and it seems the wood filler I used to fill cracks and dents isn’t very strong for thin repairs of small dents. It’s going to need some touch ups.

Edit: I did the touch ups with a small brush and my third bourbon in hand. It seemed to be the sweet spot for a steady hand and calm focus. I’ll have to remember to employ this technique again next time fine detail work is needed

2F6874A9-2F92-419C-8212-320966972DD4 (resized).jpeg2F6874A9-2F92-419C-8212-320966972DD4 (resized).jpeg
#79 2 years ago

So a word of warning if you get the hot stamped pinball resource drop targets, don’t get isopropyl alcohol on them. The black will smudge a little onto the plastic and it is hard to get off. If you do accidentally do this, you can clean them up with a magic eraser and get them back to bright white again.

#80 2 years ago

Second color on the cabinet. Slaping some clear on it tomorrow.

408E2A1A-2F93-414A-8861-6D2969807635 (resized).jpeg408E2A1A-2F93-414A-8861-6D2969807635 (resized).jpegDC1825F3-4B2A-4A6A-AB5B-80235FCB9040 (resized).jpegDC1825F3-4B2A-4A6A-AB5B-80235FCB9040 (resized).jpeg
#84 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I'm doing a Centaur 2 with a reproduction playfield and *everything* is off. All of the routing is in the wrong place and the scale of what is routed is significantly off. I'd rather that they'd never drilled pilot holes and just let me do it with the amount of repair filling and routing I've had to do on this project.
My Meteor restoration was a piece of cake, mostly it was a factory NOS playfield from Stern. I couldn't have asked for a smoother playfield swap. I have one more CPR field left to swap on a Xenon, but I think after this I'm going to use hard-tops. Easily 1/3 of the hours in the current project are correcting unnecessary mistakes in the reproduction.

I wish they had a hard top for Trident which is the next pin I want to do, but I doubt there is enough demand with 3757 of them made. I’m also unsure how they would work the hard top with a saucer.

#89 2 years ago

Finally moved the project back inside the house. Started to put it all back together.

00F8B50F-0710-4428-B595-180D97BDAD82 (resized).jpeg00F8B50F-0710-4428-B595-180D97BDAD82 (resized).jpeg4280996E-A57E-430B-AF23-E876B457A0F9 (resized).jpeg4280996E-A57E-430B-AF23-E876B457A0F9 (resized).jpeg8C8C0CA5-36D6-4F63-92BA-405FFEE1F692 (resized).jpeg8C8C0CA5-36D6-4F63-92BA-405FFEE1F692 (resized).jpeg8D547F91-C49A-42CD-909E-2DF55A8AB917 (resized).jpeg8D547F91-C49A-42CD-909E-2DF55A8AB917 (resized).jpegB0B04DC6-F453-4E1F-88F6-AF80501CEAE4 (resized).jpegB0B04DC6-F453-4E1F-88F6-AF80501CEAE4 (resized).jpeg
#91 2 years ago

Plugged it in and it powered up. It looks like there are probably a dozen lamps that are out.

I start the burn in test had a switch stick on the left sling so it kept firing. I adjust the switch but it blows the fuse for the coils.

I swapped it out and ran a coil test and it kinda worked but the coils are weak and the drops struggle to reset.

The other odd thing is a the 5000 light on Rocket 1 blinks with some of the tests. I need to test the voltage from the rectifier board and start working back.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#93 2 years ago

Tested voltages at the rectifier board and at the solenoid driver board and everything looked good. Repinned the connectors at the rectifier board for good measure. Solenoid test was still struggling.

I plugged in the ultimate MPU test board from alltek and ran the solenoid test from there. No issues! Taking that, I repinned the J3 connector to the MPU, did a memory clear (displays were showing every other digit) and it fired up. I was able to run the burn in test until it eventually hung and reset (a problem I was having before with the ultimate solenoid driver)

Next up I will repin all the connectors to the solenoid board and try again. Making progress.

7A18208D-FB9A-4F1D-9BA3-61C3D748D678 (resized).jpeg7A18208D-FB9A-4F1D-9BA3-61C3D748D678 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#94 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Ok well now I have to ask... What's with the additional sound setup? I see an additional red board in the head that must be related.
Looks like you added an amp, a power outlet by the rectifier, and 2 mid-range speakers with the sound directed through the neck to inside the lower cabinet? Wouldn't it make more sense to direct them out the back of the head by the vents or out the top?
Walk us though your thinking on that because I've never seen anyone do that on an early SS before.

DickHamill Made an amazing mod to use an arduino nano as a controller to run a new rules set with new lighting and with call outs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-2021-new-code-for-stern-meteor-1979

I added a 2.1 channel amp to run the 2 small 8 ohm 20w speakers in the head and use the 6.5” speaker in the cabinet as a subwoofer. It’s all wired to a toggle switch so it can boot to the original rom, or to the new game code with the added speakers.

Here is a video of how I had it all working before I tore it down to restore

#95 2 years ago

I finished repinning all the connections on the solenoid driver board, and I was able to get it to boot up and run through the burn in test with everything working.

That is until I held in the right flipper button. POW! It blew the main fuse. I added new flipper assemblies with this build, and now I need to check the right flipper for a short.

#96 2 years ago

I tested the resistance of the old working coil and was getting ~300 ohms. When I tested the new coil currently in place I get 3 ohms, so I'm assuming there is an issue there. I also tested the resistance between the base of the transistor to ground and may have found that I blew the transistor on the solenoid board as well. I luckily have a spare solenoid driver board that I can put in place until I swap the transistor. I ordered some new transistors, fuses, and have a spare coil I can try in its place. While I was at it, I also ordered some new springs for the drops.

#98 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you have the Solenoid board off do the ground mods and add the jumper tying the two 5V lines together. It is discussed on Pinwiki.com

I beleive that was already done on my old board. The board I blew a transistor on was my Alltek.

Is this what you were referring to? https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#AS-2518-147_ground_updates_.2F_bullet_proofing

#99 2 years ago

It lives!

After swapping 2 coils and rechecking my wiring (I must have been half asleep when I did it the first time) and putting in the old solenoid driver board, it fired up and everything works.

That is, everything except my arduino controller. If I leave that in, I get weird reset issues. I’m going to have to order a new roy g bev board and solder it up.

I tested my Alltek board and the q15 transistor for the flippers was fried. I ordered some new ones from digikey and unsoldered the old on to prep.

I also ordered lamp boards to replace the old press fit boards that I’m having issues with.
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/circuit-boards/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones

Last thing I’m waiting for are my apron and back glass trim to come back from the powder coating.

604917CE-9BBB-4FB8-8F03-CA33A8478286 (resized).jpeg604917CE-9BBB-4FB8-8F03-CA33A8478286 (resized).jpeg91A72BA5-4625-4B81-BF76-A08B5ECA7C58 (resized).jpeg91A72BA5-4625-4B81-BF76-A08B5ECA7C58 (resized).jpeg
#102 2 years ago

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.

Xenon75 asked me

"I was wondering if you would be willing to share how you wired the external amp into the power of the game and how you toggle between the original and arduino? It is the last place on mine that I don't know how to do properly. Thanks so much!"

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.

First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.IMG_1913 (resized).JPGIMG_1913 (resized).JPG

If you just want to use speakers in the head and a 2 channel amp, wire then just as you would any normal speaker and you are good to go, nothing else needed.

If you want to use the cabinet speaker as a subwoofer, in the second picture you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the cabinet speaker. IMG_1914 (resized).JPGIMG_1914 (resized).JPG We are using 6 pins here for the speaker, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.

Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#103 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.
Xenon75 asked me

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.
You can wire up the speakers in the head the same way you would any normal speaker and you are good to go.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.
First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.[quoted image]
In the second picture, you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the speakers. [quoted image] We are using 6 pins here for the speakers, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.[quoted image] Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.
Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#104 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Those are for a different version of the driver right at section: 5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades
There are three jumpers (the picture showed more because of a bad board)
In this thread I had posted pictures of several versions of the driver boards with jumpers as they are slightly different on the Bally and Stern and version of the board because of the layout.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4692436

I had a free minute so I added 2 of the ground ties that were mentioned to my spare solenoid driver board.

F6327C3C-7B69-4ADE-80B9-C1D5A638DD74 (resized).jpegF6327C3C-7B69-4ADE-80B9-C1D5A638DD74 (resized).jpeg
#105 2 years ago

You get a new pin! And you get a new pin! And you get a new pin…

Repining all the connectors while waiting for parts to arrive. Letting it get settled into its new home.

F89A3ED4-6777-4F1C-AE46-DA408EBF410A (resized).jpegF89A3ED4-6777-4F1C-AE46-DA408EBF410A (resized).jpeg
#106 2 years ago

Just swapped out the old pressed connector lamp boards with the ones from https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones . These will hopefully be more reliable and make it easier to swap out bulbs

When installing these, take a couple minutes on the bench to put solder blobs on all the pads before mounting them. It makes the swap much faster and easier.

9C626531-63BA-4C13-963B-48380B345EE6 (resized).jpeg9C626531-63BA-4C13-963B-48380B345EE6 (resized).jpegA9E5A3F1-A438-4070-B119-351109536DD4 (resized).jpegA9E5A3F1-A438-4070-B119-351109536DD4 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#108 2 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

excellent advice thank you! I have a few of these to do. Did you have and drippage when doing it in the cab?

Very little. Any of the solder drips came right off.

#109 2 years ago

I finally got parts back from powder coat! Now that I have the apron and back glass trim back, I was able to get these installed. I put on the apron decals care of semicolin (thank you again!) and got the last few details together. I also received my new lamp sockets in the mail so I swapped those out as well.

9B3D3501-8F63-4E53-8092-BEF038B06360 (resized).jpeg9B3D3501-8F63-4E53-8092-BEF038B06360 (resized).jpeg
#110 2 years ago

All back together now, and played a few games. It’s way faster than I remember.

I need to work on the pop bumper. The switch is gapped very close, but it still seems to not always fire when it gets hit by the ball.

3DA57A30-AF9B-4FCE-883B-2DF27A9175CB (resized).jpeg3DA57A30-AF9B-4FCE-883B-2DF27A9175CB (resized).jpeg52C7120E-F178-4324-A4BA-B21CB8C9C2AB (resized).jpeg52C7120E-F178-4324-A4BA-B21CB8C9C2AB (resized).jpeg6D10787F-7983-4AEE-AADA-A87F8FA3B7ED (resized).jpeg6D10787F-7983-4AEE-AADA-A87F8FA3B7ED (resized).jpeg

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

All back together now, and played a few games. It’s way faster than I remember.
I need to work on the pop bumper. The switch is gapped very close, but it still seems to not always fire when it gets hit by the ball.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#112 2 years ago

Project is officially completed. I figured out that my pop bumper issue was because I forgot to put the small brass washers under the small nylon spacers that hold up the pop bumper body. Essentially the skirt was just a little too low, and there wasn't enough travel; to actuate the switch properly.

I was also getting air balls off the #1 dead bumper that had me puzzled until I realized I forgot to put the rubber (or silicone in this case) rings back on the passive bumpers. No more air balls!

All in all this was a wildly fun project, and I'm really enjoying having this game in my collection.

3 weeks later
#115 2 years ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Where did you get the Stern decal from?

The coin door decal is readily available from Marco. The apron decal I received from a fellow pinsider who had one laying around since pinball rescue has stopped producing them. I don't know of anyone producing this exact one right now. You could try reaching out to Classic Arcades but I think they print their decals on white water slide transfers, so I don't know how it would work for Meteor.

1 month later
#116 2 years ago

While I was working on my Trident I added ball trough lighting to my Meteor. Adds a lot of light to the flippers.

134443DD-F701-4BA1-B17D-1ABB76F92267 (resized).jpeg134443DD-F701-4BA1-B17D-1ABB76F92267 (resized).jpeg2D48C7D1-692F-4D71-82BF-8BBDE37662AB (resized).jpeg2D48C7D1-692F-4D71-82BF-8BBDE37662AB (resized).jpegD0629268-1B99-4301-914A-1C5C9C133322 (resized).jpegD0629268-1B99-4301-914A-1C5C9C133322 (resized).jpeg
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
 
$ 100.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Middletown, OH
$ 69.00
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 12.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 25.00
Apparel - Men
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
20eyes
 
3,000
Machine - For Sale
Kettering, OH
$ 44.00
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
 
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
RoyGBev Pinball
 
From: $ 130.00
Boards
Troxel Repair
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bigguybbr.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-meteor-20201?tu=bigguybbr and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.