(Topic ID: 293995)

Stern Meteor 2021

By bigguybbr

26 days ago


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  • 107 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by rcbrown316
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 107 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 9 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I beleive that was already done on my old board. The board I blew a transistor on was my Alltek.
Is this what you were referring to? https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#AS-2518-147_ground_updates_.2F_bullet_proofing

Those are for a different version of the driver right at section: 5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades

There are three jumpers (the picture showed more because of a bad board)

In this thread I had posted pictures of several versions of the driver boards with jumpers as they are slightly different on the Bally and Stern and version of the board because of the layout.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4692436

#102 9 days ago

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.

Xenon75 asked me

"I was wondering if you would be willing to share how you wired the external amp into the power of the game and how you toggle between the original and arduino? It is the last place on mine that I don't know how to do properly. Thanks so much!"

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.

First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.IMG_1913 (resized).JPG

If you just want to use speakers in the head and a 2 channel amp, wire then just as you would any normal speaker and you are good to go, nothing else needed.

If you want to use the cabinet speaker as a subwoofer, in the second picture you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the cabinet speaker. IMG_1914 (resized).JPG We are using 6 pins here for the speaker, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.Capture (resized).PNG Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.

Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#103 9 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.
Xenon75 asked me

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.
You can wire up the speakers in the head the same way you would any normal speaker and you are good to go.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.
First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.[quoted image]
In the second picture, you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the speakers. [quoted image] We are using 6 pins here for the speakers, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.[quoted image] Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.
Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#104 9 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Those are for a different version of the driver right at section: 5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades
There are three jumpers (the picture showed more because of a bad board)
In this thread I had posted pictures of several versions of the driver boards with jumpers as they are slightly different on the Bally and Stern and version of the board because of the layout.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4692436

I had a free minute so I added 2 of the ground ties that were mentioned to my spare solenoid driver board.

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#105 8 days ago

You get a new pin! And you get a new pin! And you get a new pin…

Repining all the connectors while waiting for parts to arrive. Letting it get settled into its new home.

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#106 4 days ago

Just swapped out the old pressed connector lamp boards with the ones from https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones . These will hopefully be more reliable and make it easier to swap out bulbs

When installing these, take a couple minutes on the bench to put solder blobs on all the pads before mounting them. It makes the swap much faster and easier.

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#107 4 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Just swapped out the old pressed connector lamp boards with the ones from https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones . These will hopefully be more reliable and make it easier to swap out bulbs
When installing these, take a couple minutes on the bench to put solder blobs on all the pads before mounting them. It makes the swap much faster and easier.
[quoted image][quoted image]

excellent advice thank you! I have a few of these to do. Did you have and drippage when doing it in the cab?

There are 107 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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