(Topic ID: 293995)

Completed: Stern Meteor Restoration with BSOS 2021 Code

By bigguybbr

2 years ago


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  • 119 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by shall
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 119 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I beleive that was already done on my old board. The board I blew a transistor on was my Alltek.
Is this what you were referring to? https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#AS-2518-147_ground_updates_.2F_bullet_proofing

Those are for a different version of the driver right at section: 5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades

There are three jumpers (the picture showed more because of a bad board)

In this thread I had posted pictures of several versions of the driver boards with jumpers as they are slightly different on the Bally and Stern and version of the board because of the layout.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4692436

#102 2 years ago

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.

Xenon75 asked me

"I was wondering if you would be willing to share how you wired the external amp into the power of the game and how you toggle between the original and arduino? It is the last place on mine that I don't know how to do properly. Thanks so much!"

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.

First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.IMG_1913 (resized).JPGIMG_1913 (resized).JPG

If you just want to use speakers in the head and a 2 channel amp, wire then just as you would any normal speaker and you are good to go, nothing else needed.

If you want to use the cabinet speaker as a subwoofer, in the second picture you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the cabinet speaker. IMG_1914 (resized).JPGIMG_1914 (resized).JPG We are using 6 pins here for the speaker, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.

Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#103 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I shared some of this in the DickHamill Meteor 2021 thread, but has since it has come up in both places.
Xenon75 asked me

PinballHelp came up with a great way to add a switched power outlet so that the amp turns on and off with the rest of your machine. The best part is, you probably have all the parts on hand needed to do this.
You can wire up the speakers in the head the same way you would any normal speaker and you are good to go.

Next is wiring up the switch. It's set up to allow you to either switch a single input between two possible outputs, or switch 2 inputs between a single output. For this, we are going to set it up in the latter configuration. You can see when looking at the switch, the outside row of contacts are both labeled 'On'. We can think of those as inputs, while the center contacts are outputs.
First thing you need is 2 wires, one going from the center terminal and one of the outside terminals. My picture has 3 wires because I was looking at the wrong jumper when I originally set this up, but the extra wire doesn't hurt anything, and I had some long cables for hooking up ESCs from and old drone project that worked perfect for my needs. This is going to connect up to J3 on your RoyGBev board to toggle between the standard code and the 2021 code by either connecting the 2 pins as a jumper for 2021, or leaving them disconnected for 1979.[quoted image]
In the second picture, you can see we are using the toggle to choose what signal is getting sent to the speakers. [quoted image] We are using 6 pins here for the speakers, and I made a little spreadsheet in excel to show where each pin should be connected to.[quoted image] Wire the center output contacts to go directly to your 6.5" speaker. Wire the outputs from your subwoofer output of the 2.1 channel amp to the side of the switch you have going to J3. Wire what was the old speaker inputs from your SB-200 board to the side of your selector switch where you left an open pin.
Setting it up in this manner allows you to toggle the game code, and the speaker output from the same switch (remember to turn off the machine before toggling). If you use spade crimps for the speaker connection, it's really easy to remove if you ever want to put the machine back to stock, or move it to another machine.

#104 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Those are for a different version of the driver right at section: 5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades
There are three jumpers (the picture showed more because of a bad board)
In this thread I had posted pictures of several versions of the driver boards with jumpers as they are slightly different on the Bally and Stern and version of the board because of the layout.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/28#post-4692436

I had a free minute so I added 2 of the ground ties that were mentioned to my spare solenoid driver board.

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#105 2 years ago

You get a new pin! And you get a new pin! And you get a new pin…

Repining all the connectors while waiting for parts to arrive. Letting it get settled into its new home.

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#106 2 years ago

Just swapped out the old pressed connector lamp boards with the ones from https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones . These will hopefully be more reliable and make it easier to swap out bulbs

When installing these, take a couple minutes on the bench to put solder blobs on all the pads before mounting them. It makes the swap much faster and easier.

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#107 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Just swapped out the old pressed connector lamp boards with the ones from https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones . These will hopefully be more reliable and make it easier to swap out bulbs
When installing these, take a couple minutes on the bench to put solder blobs on all the pads before mounting them. It makes the swap much faster and easier.
[quoted image][quoted image]

excellent advice thank you! I have a few of these to do. Did you have and drippage when doing it in the cab?

1 week later
#108 2 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

excellent advice thank you! I have a few of these to do. Did you have and drippage when doing it in the cab?

Very little. Any of the solder drips came right off.

#109 2 years ago

I finally got parts back from powder coat! Now that I have the apron and back glass trim back, I was able to get these installed. I put on the apron decals care of semicolin (thank you again!) and got the last few details together. I also received my new lamp sockets in the mail so I swapped those out as well.

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#110 2 years ago

All back together now, and played a few games. It’s way faster than I remember.

I need to work on the pop bumper. The switch is gapped very close, but it still seems to not always fire when it gets hit by the ball.

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#111 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

All back together now, and played a few games. It’s way faster than I remember.
I need to work on the pop bumper. The switch is gapped very close, but it still seems to not always fire when it gets hit by the ball.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#112 2 years ago

Project is officially completed. I figured out that my pop bumper issue was because I forgot to put the small brass washers under the small nylon spacers that hold up the pop bumper body. Essentially the skirt was just a little too low, and there wasn't enough travel; to actuate the switch properly.

I was also getting air balls off the #1 dead bumper that had me puzzled until I realized I forgot to put the rubber (or silicone in this case) rings back on the passive bumpers. No more air balls!

All in all this was a wildly fun project, and I'm really enjoying having this game in my collection.

#113 2 years ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Project is officially completed. I figured out that my pop bumper issue was because I forgot to put the small brass washers under the small nylon spacers that hold up the pop bumper body. Essentially the skirt was just a little too low, and there wasn't enough travel; to actuate the switch properly.
I was also getting air balls off the #1 dead bumper that had me puzzled until I realized I forgot to put the rubber (or silicone in this case) rings back on the passive bumpers. No more air balls!
All in all this was a wildly fun project, and I'm really enjoying having this game in my collection.

That's interesting about the washers. i just rebuilt 6 pops in galaxy and seawitch and left all of those out. they all work great and the reason I left them out is the spoon actuator rod thing was getting hung up on the sides of the spoon in some of them.

great job on the restore and documentation. i learned a ton here.

3 weeks later
#114 2 years ago

Where did you get the Stern decal from?

Quoted from bigguybbr:

Today my lock down bar receiver from Mantis Amusements came in and it’s perfect. I’ve never used them before, but the quality is top notch. I also got in the decals for my coin door, so that’s looking the part now.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#115 2 years ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Where did you get the Stern decal from?

The coin door decal is readily available from Marco. The apron decal I received from a fellow pinsider who had one laying around since pinball rescue has stopped producing them. I don't know of anyone producing this exact one right now. You could try reaching out to Classic Arcades but I think they print their decals on white water slide transfers, so I don't know how it would work for Meteor.

1 month later
#116 2 years ago

While I was working on my Trident I added ball trough lighting to my Meteor. Adds a lot of light to the flippers.

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6 months later
#117 2 years ago

I am taking my Meteor with BSOS to TPF. Does anyone know if there is a way to set it to free play? I ran through the tests but couldn't figure out how to set a low replay score.

#118 2 years ago

Test # 12. Switch it to 1. I'll be at TPF so glad to see this in person!

meteor (resized).pngmeteor (resized).png
#119 2 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

Test # 12. Switch it to 1. I'll be at TPF so glad to see this in person![quoted image]

Thanks

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