(Topic ID: 325831)

Stern M-200 MPU boot from power supply, but not in game.

By Brewchap

1 year ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Brewchap
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

When I try to boot the Stern M-200 MPU in the pin, I get a red light that stays on solid. I can pull the MPU from the pin and boot from the bench and I get 6 flashes. I tested the power/solenoid board and I get the correct voltage on the test points. I also tried a new Weebly board, and it works great in the pin. So I put the Stern board back in and I still get the dreaded solid red light. What am I missing here?

#2 1 year ago

If you momentarily short pins 39 and 40 of the CPU together does it proceed to boot? If so, the power supply is probably not stabilizing quickly enough and the reset circuit is locking up the MPU.

There are a couple of things you can do:
1. Rebuild the SDB. Replace the caps, the header pins (especially the .100s) and repin the connectors. Also repin connector J4 on the MPU.
2. Replace the reset circuit components with a Dallas reset generator. There are several varieties available which hold the CPU in reset for a specified amount of time before allowing the MPU to boot. I think I use a 350ms chip whenever I need to rebuild a reset circuit and it's always worked for me. IIRC, the factory circuit holds the CPU in reset for 150ms, which is not much time. Using the Dallas chip you can expand that window, allowing for a marginal power supply to stabilize.

#3 1 year ago

Are you getting the correct voltages on the MPU?

#4 1 year ago

Have you installed newly programmed EPROMs on the MPU board?

#5 1 year ago

Same result whether from a power up -or- pressing the reset button?

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

If you momentarily short pins 39 and 40 of the CPU together does it proceed to boot? If so, the power supply is probably not stabilizing quickly enough and the reset circuit is locking up the MPU.

No, the LED light gets brighter but does not allow the MPU to boot.

Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Are you getting the correct voltages on the MPU?

I didn't check that. I figured that if the Weebly would boot, then the MPU voltages was correct.

Quoted from Quench:

Have you installed newly programmed EPROMs on the MPU board?

No sir

Quoted from frenchmarky:

Same result whether from a power up -or- pressing the reset button?

Yes, the same results from doing both power up and reset.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Are you getting the correct voltages on the MPU?

Voltage from the SDB:
TP1 5.11 VDC
TP2 187 VDC
TP3 5.08 VDC
TP4 230 VDC
TP5 11.03

Voltage from the MPU:
TP1 5.05 VDC
TP2 11.03 VDC
TP3 21.50 VDC
TP5 5.04 VDC

Looks like the 5 volt and 12 volt is a little low.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

2. Replace the reset circuit components with a Dallas reset generator. There are several varieties available which hold the CPU in reset for a specified amount of time before allowing the MPU to boot. I think I use a 350ms chip whenever I need to rebuild a reset circuit and it's always worked for me. IIRC, the factory circuit holds the CPU in reset for 150ms, which is not much time. Using the Dallas chip you can expand that window, allowing for a marginal power supply to stabilize.

I got a reset gen from GPE. MCP120-460GI/TO Can I use that?

#9 1 year ago

if you are only getting 11v dc on the 12v rail the filter cap is probably bad or the isolated ground return wire has resistance. It is usually more like 15v-16v with the cap in circuit and 11v with the cap out of circuit. A tenth of a volt drop on the 5v supply is a bit higher than what you'd expect on fresh connectors.

With a multimeter set on low range volts AC, measure across the 12v filter cap. More than about a quarter of a volt of AC is a sign there is excessive ripple. The blue film wrapped capacitors are probably all starting to go bad. The capacitance value might check close to right but they are likely leaking DC and has high ESR.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

if you are only getting 11v dc on the 12v rail the filter cap is probably bad or the isolated ground return wire has resistance. It is usually more like 15v-16v with the cap in circuit and 11v with the cap out of circuit. A tenth of a volt drop on the 5v supply is a bit higher than what you'd expect on fresh connectors.
With a multimeter set on low range volts AC, measure across the 12v filter cap. More than about a quarter of a volt of AC is a sign there is excessive ripple. The blue film wrapped capacitors are probably all starting to go bad. The capacitance value might check close to right but they are likely leaking DC and has high ESR.

Oh yes! I got 3.3v off the cap. As dothedoo suggested, It's to rebuild the SDB. Thank you for your help everyone!

#11 1 year ago

Wanted to close this out that rebuilding the SDB did the trick.

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