(Topic ID: 236187)

Stern Lower GI Issues on Spike

By The_Director

5 years ago

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22 posts
7 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 5 years ago by DNO
Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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Anyone else fighting lower GI issues on later model Sterns, mainly Spike system games on location? They've started putting two LEDs directly above the flipper mechs on either side and those 4 and the 4 at the slings seem to be going out, becoming intermittent or weakening by vibration in and around those areas. Curious if anyone has come up with a workable solution for this rather than replacing LEDs, fiddling with them, reflowing sockets. Not such a big deal at the sockets at slings, but the ones above the flipper mechs are a huge PIA to get to. Just sucks to have almost whole bottom third not illuminated as well as it should.

I feel it might be something related to sockets as I can move with my finger and/or put a new bulb in and it will replace temporarily, but after plays and coming back, there's that weakness, deadness or in and out again

But the fact that it is largely the lower GI is weird too. Why not bulbs near pop bumpers that are also vibrated heavily?

Quoted from PinMonk:
Try the electrical tape fix and see if it's a tension issue with the socket loosening.

These are all 44 style twist in though, rather than the flat 555 type. Not a way to adapt the same idealology over is there?

Quoted from DNO:
Entire strings going out might be a different cause, I am talking about the flickering of lights under the inlane guides (primarily) and slings.
The sockets under the inlane guides are different, as they are meant to mount fairly flush, and are stapled in.
I have removed flipper plates, remove the insulating paper, pry off the staples holding the sockets (I pitch the paper, as I can't install new staples), remove wires, I then clean all the solder off the lugs, and flatten them, now the fix...
I file the barrel of the socket a little bit, at the bottom along where the lug is, I then add solder, joining the lug and the barrel. I think they are only pressed together, and that's the problem.
Now, I actually drill a small pilot hole and reattach the socket to the PF with a small stainless screw, the normal ones break.
Reattach the wires, and I simply put electrical tape over it all when done (a couple pieces, cross cross) to keep potential shorts from happening.
Then put the flipper plate back on, and check for clearance of the sockets and wiring.
Pain in the ass, but rock solid lights after that.
I also throw a dab of solder on the center of the bottom gold part to the other lug, for good measure.
Ymmv, but works for me on several route machines that had issues.
If you don't understand this whole description, or aren't comfortable doing all this, don't do it! (Or do so at your own risk)

This kind of sounds like what I was expecting unfortunately. Was hoping there might be some sort of an easy top side trick, but doubted it. I might play around and see if I can come up with any lasting easier solution as this is becoming a pretty common occurrence on almost all the route spike games I service Deadpool, Iron Maiden, Star Wars, etc. If I come up with anything I'll post here as well, thanks for this detail and post!

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