(Topic ID: 84429)

Stern Lightning: Left Flippers Dead SOLVED

By 320Gigabytes

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

I have Stern Lightning that works completely, except for the left flippers.

I was told one of the coils needed to be replaced, the upper left coil, so I replaced it with the proper one.

Still no actuation. I checked the flipper schematics and it shows that the right flipper has two end of stroke switches while the left only has one?

Any help would be appreciated!

#2 10 years ago

Each flipper should have its own EOS switch.
Four flippers, four EOS switches!

#3 10 years ago

I thought the same thing!

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1441/Stern_1981_Lightning_English_Manual.pdf

The last page in this manual confused me.

#4 10 years ago

On classic Stern games (if you have an upper right or left flipper) there will be an extra set of EOS contacts that are normally open (N.O.) on the lower flipper.

Let's just take the right side, as the left is the same. The lower right flipper will have 2 sets of EOS switches, one N.C. and one N.O. The upper right flipper will just have one EOS switch that is N.C.

The N.C. switch on each flipper is a standard EOS that controls the power/hold coil for that particular flipper. The extra N.O. switch on the lower flipper controls power to the upper flipper on that side of the game. In other words, the upper right flipper will not receive power until the lower right flipper has reached full stroke causing the N.O. switch on the lower right flipper to close.

Not sure why Stern did this, but my guess is to limit the current draw from two sets of flippers energizing simultaneously, blowing fuses, etc. In this scenario, the upper flipper engages after the lower has reached end of stroke (or at least until the N.O. set of contacts close). It's not noticeable at all fortunately.

Stern Lightning has 4 flippers; so 6 EOS switches.

#5 10 years ago

As far as your particular problem, follow all the connectors that are shown for the left flipper, check the left cabinet switch, check the voltages, etc. There is a flipper enable relay on the solenoid driver board (SDB) that could have a bad solder joint or one set of contacts, for the left flipper, might be bad. The connector on the upper left of the SDB controls the power to the cabinet switch and flipper coils, check that as well as pin continuity. Also run continuity checks for all the wiring. I've run across broken wires before inside insulation. Lastly, check that all the wiring is solidly soldered and wired correctly.

#6 10 years ago

Awesome background info on the double EOS switch on each lower flipper. The correct board would be the power supply/solenoid driver board correct?

Thanks for the help! I'll check this and report back.

Side note: Awesome avatars everybody!

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from 320Gigabytes:

Awesome background info on the double EOS switch on each lower flipper. The correct board would be the power supply/solenoid driver board correct?

Thanks for the help! I'll check this and report back.

Side note: Awesome avatars everybody!

Yep the board in the upper right. That provides the HV for the displays and also feeds the solenoids through all the transistors along the bottom edge. It also has the flipper enable relay along the left side.

Bender rules!!! "You can kiss my shiny metal ass!"

#8 10 years ago

20140318_150312.jpg20140318_150312.jpg

Here's the only area of incidence on the PSU/Driver board. Looks like a diode got fried.

Deductive reasoning tells me this is the diode for the flipper enable relay?

Root cause would be possibly using the incorrect flipper coil?

Am I hot or cold?

#9 10 years ago

Looks like a trace burned open. I've seen this happen if a coil gets locked on and doesn't blow a fuse but takes out the trace instead.

#10 10 years ago

So could I just jump it from "4" to the pin it was supposed to connect to?

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from 320Gigabytes:

So could I just jump it from "4" to the pin it was supposed to connect to?

You can jumper a broken trace but I'd double check everything in that circuit.
There's probably a reason why that trace got stressed.
Could have been a past issue that someone already addressed (but failed to notice the stressed-out trace)
Refer to your wiring diagram!

#12 10 years ago

Well the wrong flipper coil was used in the upper flipper until both flippers stopped working. I'm assuming that's probably not OK and what led to the destruction of that trace. The schematic shows that the left flipper button closes/connects 4 and 6 on the relay (which can be conveniently seen from the notation on the board). Following the burned trace marks leads to the pin notated by the number "4". I would believe that to be the issue. Also, the upper coil had a spring that was much more tense than the other flippers causing the coil to work much harder in addition to the incorrect coil being used. I replaced that as well before proceeding.

I replaced it with a proper coil, jumped it, and everything seemed to work just fine.

Sweet game! The bonus "Valhalla time" is something I've never seen in a machine before. The drop targets are a little stubborn to fall when hit sometimes, but that can be adjusted!

Thanks for all the help!

#13 10 years ago

Glad you got it working!

#14 10 years ago

Could you pot a pic of your lower right flipper coil wiring? I need to reconnect a new coil, but there's like 5-6 wires that were cutvoff the old one when it got removed, and none are labeled as to where they came from.
Thank you
Jeff

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