(Topic ID: 144316)

Stern light mod help / Spike electrical question


By Luckydogg420

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by TimeBandit
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 4 years ago

    I'm getting a GoT Pre in the next few weeks and have thought of a lighting mod that I'd like to see happen.

    I'd like to have Colour changing led lights synced to the action button on the lockbar. I can then add led light strips to the flipper buttons, leg protectors, shooter rod, backbox or even under the cabinet . That way the whole cabinet will glow with the house colour your playing.

    Would it be possible to run wires off of the action button light into an amplifier and then onto led strip lights wherever needed. I could also use the games power to run everything.

    amazon.com link »
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    #2 4 years ago

    I wouldn't put anything in my expensive new pinball machine with a single one star review on Amazon and where the box is clearly assembled backward in the product photos. Is the GoT manual up? This sort of thing is certainly possible in theory, but the best way to do it will depend on how that LED is wired up.

    #3 4 years ago
    Quoted from ecurtz:

    I wouldn't put anything in my expensive new pinball machine with a single one star review on Amazon

    There's only been one review, that said the terminal screws were poor quality. This peticular amp might not be the best, but it's the theory were after here.

    Quoted from ecurtz:

    and where the box is clearly assembled backward in the product photos.

    How so? It looks right to me. The power in jack is hidden in that pic.

    Quoted from ecurtz:

    Is the GoT manual up? This sort of thing is certainly possible in theory, but the best way to do it will depend on how that LED is wired up.

    Good idea. The manual is up for the pro. The light isn't detailed very well. You can see the button but not the light. It's probably be a little pcb with a small led like the inserts. You should be able to tap into the wires at node 1 in the cabinet on connector c7.

    I think this should be possible for any controlled light in the game.

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    #4 4 years ago

    You will need another 12 volt power supply that can be pluged into the service outlet. I wouldn't hook anything to the games LEDs without some sort of optoisolator in between.

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from Luckydogg420:

    How so? It looks right to me. The power in jack is hidden in that pic.

    If you look at the other pics the labels for the barrel jack are on the opposite side from the jack. I also seriously doubt there's any sort of voltage conversion in that thing so if you hooked up your 5v LED signal and added 12v power for your LED string you'd probably fry boards.

    I second GRUMPY's advice that to be safe you'll want the signal isolated from the game. From that chart it looks like the LEDs are probably shared power (common anode) which is likely the opposite of what you'd need for an LED strip as well, so you may need some sort of basic logic conversion. In short you'll probably need some sort of little converter board rather than just added power.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    You will need another 12 volt power supply that can be pluged into the service outlet. I wouldn't hook anything to the games LEDs without some sort of optoisolator in between.

    Couldn't you use a 12v splitter to get power, Like this one from pinball life?
    image.jpeg

    Do you have a link for an optoisolator?

    I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know a bit about electrical theory. I'm sure this can be done, I just need some good direction.

    #7 4 years ago
    Quoted from Luckydogg420:

    Couldn't you use a 12v splitter to get power, Like this one from pinball life?

    Yes you can, but I would limit this to a 1/2 amp draw.

    Quoted from Luckydogg420:Do you have a link for an optoisolator?

    4N25 Search will show you data sheets and some easy DIY circuits.

    #8 4 years ago

    The RGB amplifier you have pictured can pass 24 amps which is like 75 feet of LEDs rolls. If that is your plan then you need a separate power supply. I have used these before and they work great, I just use a computer P/S brick that puts out 20 amps.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    The RGB amplifier you have pictured can pass 24 amps which is like 75 feet of LEDs rolls. If that is your plan then you need a separate power supply. I have used these before and they work great, I just use a computer P/S brick that puts out 20 amps.

    75 feet seems a bit extreme. Probably only need a couple feet of lights; Less than 10 for sure. The idea is just to be able to add more lights without causing to much draw on the existing circuit.

    #10 4 years ago

    The spliter you showed can safely run @ 18 inches of 5050 LEDs or @ 30 leds total. Anything more is not safe unless you run another P/S sized for the number of LEDs that want to run.

    #11 4 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    The spliter you showed can safely run @ 18 inches of 5050 LEDs or @ 30 leds total. Anything more is not safe unless you run another P/S sized for the number of LEDs that want to run.

    That's good to know. 30 led's should be enough lights to give quite a glow, the 5050 light strips are bright. The trick is getting then to sync with the colour of the action button.

    #12 4 years ago

    You need to know what the voltage is going to the game's LEDs first. That signal will feed to the 4n25 input thru a droping resistor to keep the current in check. This will turn on the 4n25 transistor output lighting the 30 led strip. You will need one 4n25 for each color. For example 1 red, 1 blue, and 1 green.

    #13 4 years ago
    Quoted from Luckydogg420:

    Couldn't you use a 12v splitter to get power, Like this one from pinball life?
    image.jpeg
    Do you have a link for an optoisolator?
    I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know a bit about electrical theory. I'm sure this can be done, I just need some good direction.

    SPIKE games don't have the 3 pin (G, +5, +12) connection that all SAM System games had. So that splitter (alone) wouldn't work on a SPIKE game.

    You would need a SPIKE 12v Power Adapter (which makes it so the SPIKE games do have the familiar SAM 3 pin connections) and then use that type of splitter.

    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3723

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    The spliter you showed can safely run @ 18 inches of 5050 LEDs or @ 30 leds total. Anything more is not safe unless you run another P/S sized for the number of LEDs that want to run.

    I'm running a 12v led 5050 strip for under cab lighting off my 12 connection plug to the right of the coin door (stern, non spike) probably around 10-12 ft. Is that not safe? Thought the led strips used very little power??

    #15 4 years ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Thought the led strips used very little power??

    Each led uses very little current but 12 feet (225 leds) uses quite a bit of current. Are they flashing or on steady it makes a big difference. If it were me I would use power supply pluged into the service outlet, but I rather be safe than sorry.

    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Each led uses very little current but 12 feet (225 leds) uses quite a bit of current. Are they flashing or on steady it makes a big difference. If it were me I would use power supply pluged into the service outlet, but I rather be safe than sorry.

    They fade in and out. The problem with using the service outlet or power to the service outlet is its always hot, so I have to plug and unplug them all the time. I didn't use a splitter and wired directly to the ground and 12v wires going to the plug. I also have them on a 12v mini controller

    #17 4 years ago

    I have moved the hot wire for the service outlet to the switch, it's much easier. I have six pins with undercab leds run off one controler (same as op pic) so all lights are the same color until I start a game. The pin that I start a game on then goes interactive with the game and back to the controler when the game is over.

    #18 4 years ago
    Quoted from DugFreez:

    SPIKE games don't have the 3 pin (G, +5, +12) connection that all SAM System games had. So that splitter (alone) wouldn't work on a SPIKE game.
    You would need a SPIKE 12v Power Adapter (which makes it so the SPIKE games do have the familiar SAM 3 pin connections) and then use that type of splitter.
    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3723

    I'm seeing 12V at this connector inside the coindoor. The pins are around the other way from the SAM one, but any problem using this?

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    #19 4 years ago

    Shouldnt be, its the one to use. Put a meter on it to see how much power it puts out. Stern plugs have three wires, blk, red/gry and red for ground, 12v and 5v.

    #20 4 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    I'm seeing 12V at this connector inside the coindoor. The pins are around the other way from the SAM one, but any problem using this?

    image.jpeg

    I'm not sure what you mean by that statement? Do you mean you HAVE tested it and it's +12vdc? Except, unlike the SAM games, the +12 is on the bottom and the GROUND is at the top (pointy end)?

    I've never noticed that plug before, but if it's +12v and a ground....seems weird that Stern would make it the same plug as the SAM +12v plug but reverse it. I'd also wonder what it is for. I would think everything on the coin door runs from the Cabinet Node 1, but I don't see any grey / red wires listed in the manual for the Cabinet Node 1.

    If it's +12....me and several other mod makers have overlooked it. Then again...if it's the same connection type with the wires reversed...maybe its for the best we stayed away to avoid confusion.

    Can anyone with a US SPIKE game verify that US games have this harness also.....and what it is???

    #21 4 years ago
    Quoted from DugFreez:

    Do you mean you HAVE tested it and it's +12vdc? Except, unlike the SAM games, the +12 is on the bottom and the GROUND is at the top (pointy end)?

    It's on my KISS premium. Flat end is gnd, middle is +5vDC, pointy end is +12vDC. My SAM games have gnd at the pointy end.
    The harness is coming straight off the coin door node board, and only has those power cables in it. Probably just doing what the pinball life adapter is doing. Maybe they just started putting them in? And maybe they made them up backwards in error? That would be funny.

    #22 4 years ago

    This outlet on the coin door is only in the Australian market. It was specifically requested by the Aussie distributor to accomodate local bill validators. Hence no one else seeing them. That clears that up.

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