(Topic ID: 220903)

Stern Lectronamo Rebuild


By wolffcub

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 340 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Classic_Stern
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 340 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#301 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It is correct as is, the spinner switch should not have a cap.

Mine had a very factory looking cap, even the standups had them.

#302 2 years ago

Spent yesterday evening working on the slingshot arms and saucer kick out arm. The pivot pins were so badly work the arms would rock about 3/16" in each direction. I pulled out the old pins and slightly over drilled the hole and installed 1/4" bolts with a shoulder on them. Used a stover nut on the other end so i could tighten them just enough to let them pivot and not back off. Arms now have less than a 1/16" of an inch play total.

Racked up a new high score yesterday in the mid 700's

#303 2 years ago

Going to rebast the apron today and try to finish it up later tonight.

#304 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Spent yesterday evening working on the slingshot arms and saucer kick out arm. The pivot pins were so badly work the arms would rock about 3/16" in each direction. I pulled out the old pins and slightly over drilled the hole and installed 1/4" bolts with a shoulder on them. Used a stover nut on the other end so i could tighten them just enough to let them pivot and not back off. Arms now have less than a 1/16" of an inch play total.
Racked up a new high score yesterday in the mid 700's

Can you attach a photo of this? My slingshots are toast and would like to fix them rather than replace. Thanks!

#305 2 years ago

I will take one off the field and apart again just for you !

#306 2 years ago

Thanks! I would love to tighten up the slings on my old Stern's, they have been well-used!

#307 2 years ago

OK so here is my fix. I don't have any before pics but its easy to follow.

#1 remove and take apart the existing assembly.

#2 file down the mushroom head on the pivot pin flush to the pivot bracket and use a punch to tap it out.

#3 drill out the existing hold that had the pin pressed into it. Use a 1/4" bit
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#4 use a 1/4" x 1 1/4" bolt. This bolt size will give you the proper size shoulder for the pivot to rotate on. You can get 2 types of stover nuts. One style has a hat to it and is taller or you can get ones that are no taller than a regular nut. Because space is tight between the 2 leaf switches on my set up i had used the low profile one. I also used one spec of white grease as to help reduce wear from the metal to metal surfaces.
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#5 Assemble the unit and tighten the nuts fully. I took a zip disk to cut off the protruding bolt threads. Slowly back the bolt / nut apart till you start to get the pivot action to work.
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#308 2 years ago

Awesome, thanks so much! Well done!

#309 2 years ago

Interesting mod, thanks for posting it.

#310 2 years ago

Found these in cabinet today if anyone needs them.

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#311 2 years ago

Hmmm for reference.

#312 2 years ago

Been lazy for the last while so still not 100% done. Managed to get the apron painted and added some stuff to it. Did my own little twist to it. Not 100% accurate. Stern must of been going thru a identity crisis, there are 5 different stern logos on this machine in its stock form. I lowered that to 4 lol.

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#313 2 years ago

Going to finish up the text on the apron later tonight and get that out of the way. I will then focus on what to do with the back glass next.

#314 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Stern must of been going thru a identity crisis, there are 5 different stern logos on this machine in its stock form. I lowered that to 4 lol.

That's Stern Lectronics for ya.

#315 2 years ago

Beautiful machine. You did a fantastic restoration.

Yves

#316 2 years ago

Its been a fun journey. This site and its participants have been the only reason i got into pinball and attempted this. I really need to button up this project soon so i can get ready for the Sidbad rebuild sitting next to it. I already ordered a new PI-1/X4 board setup for it and, the old one was trash and the driver board also looks bad. I will soon start another thread on that rebuild. I think im going to take it to the same level and fully rebuild it like the Lectronamo.

I started redrawing the black glass yesterday in vector format and i will get a vinyl roll for my printer and see how it turns out. The stock backglass might actually look alright if i even just take the time and get some transparent paints and do some colour matching.

#317 2 years ago

I was also wondering if and that's a big IF i was going to actually sell it one day what you you think it would be worth? Did I lower the valve of it changing a few things around? Think it's worth about $2000 Cad?

#318 2 years ago

I would assume that it's worth more than 2000 CAD, especially if a buyer can see how much effort went into it. Just curious, are you happy with how it plays? It must be nice and fast now that it's been cleared!

#319 2 years ago

I will try to post of a vid later tonight.

#320 2 years ago

Its a goofy game... it plays fast and it slows down, then fast.....slow .......

#321 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Its a goofy game... it plays fast and it slows down, then fast.....slow .......

Your work on your play field is vibrant. Very well done. You have skills I envy.

Can you post an action video from the player's point of view, please?

#323 2 years ago

Thank you. Nice looking pin. You have done a nice job.

2 weeks later
#324 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. Nice looking pin. You have done a nice job.

Thanks. Working on it was lots of fun. Last I checked i had over 474 games on it.

#325 2 years ago

Here is a link to the drop box that has lots of pics i never posted directly in this thread. Other might find it a useful resource.

Link to all pics fixed

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/icset5v3w69oduu/AAAD81rsyzXn4VbB99IqN_MJa?dl=0

#326 2 years ago

Heya, just catching up with this thread. I have a question about the painting. You went with painting of the letters rather than using a decal, now that its over how well did that work overall? Also, you mention the cricut - what was the process? scan and photoshop and send to the cricut?

#327 2 years ago

Painting I think turned out perfect. Better than possibly seeing thru a printed water transfer or having the outline of a water transfer show. No scanning was done. It was all directly out of the circut software. I just found the correct font and designed it all on the fly.

#328 2 years ago

It turned out with nice sharp edges.

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#329 2 years ago

Your results make it appear as thought the Cricut can cut much finer detail than the Cameo. Either that or I'm not using the Cameo correctly...

either way, your results speak for themselves! Very good looking machine.

#330 2 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Your results make it appear as thought the Cricut can cut much finer detail than the Cameo. Either that or I'm not using the Cameo correctly...
either way, your results speak for themselves! Very good looking machine.

look at post 183. It shows how fine it can cut.

#331 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Look at post 183. It shows how fine it can cut.

As Vader said, "most impressive"

What did you use for stencil material, I've only used Oramask and Gerbermask and to the level of detail you achieved, I could not with my Cameo.

#332 2 years ago

I used the Circut brand stencil roll material. I also bought the upgraded cutter blade but have yet to try it. I hear it can actually cut even finer with it as I hoping to soon try it with the custom stencils im doing for my Sinbad play field repaint.

#333 2 years ago

I should give my Cameo another try, haven't used it in nearly a year. I certainly couldn't get detail like that either. I might try one of those CB-09 blades to see if it makes a difference.

#334 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

I should give my Cameo another try, haven't used it in nearly a year. I certainly couldn't get detail like that either. I might try one of those CB-09 blades to see if it makes a difference.

And here I am trying to learn how to silk screen. I see all this and feel like I am wasting my time.

#335 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

And here I am trying to learn how to silk screen. I see all this and feel like I am wasting my time

Screen printing is the route I'm considering as well for fine details (text for instance, or dithered gradients). After all it is the technique originally used to print a playfield. I've done it a lot, but it's a long time ago. Actually screen printing in itself is not so difficult. But it requires quite a setup, and many steps, before your art is on the screen, ready to be printed.

The result will be stronger than waterslide decals and more precise than stencils made with a cutter. But for sure it will not be a timesaver.

#336 2 years ago
Quoted from g94:

Screen printing is the route I'm considering as well for fine details (text for instance, or dithered gradients). After all it is the technique originally used to print a playfield. I've done it a lot, but it's a long time ago. Actually screen printing in itself is not so difficult. But it requires quite a setup, and many steps, before your art is on the screen, ready to be printed.
The result will be stronger than waterslide decals and more precise than stencils made with a cutter. But for sure it will not be a timesaver.

Screen printing gave you a nice sharp edge but i think we all have to admit that when ydid that on playfields they almost never were centered perfectly on each other. At least on the 4 play fields I own can confirm this. What should be concentric is not layered right.

6 months later
#337 1 year ago

Good way to test your rebuild. Let it be used in the classic competition in yegpin. I wonder if they could tell me how many entered to play it. I forgot to record the games played prior to bringing it.

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#339 1 year ago

The score to beat is now 716,490! Your not gonna let someone beat you on your own game are you????

9 months later
#340 1 year ago

Looks incredible!!

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