(Topic ID: 220903)

Stern Lectronamo Rebuild

By wolffcub

5 years ago


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There are 340 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 7.
#251 5 years ago

Poor top. The wet sanding raised the wood under the clear. I was easy on the water and even kept soaking up any extra water

#252 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Poor top. The wet sanding raised the wood under the clear. I was easy on the water and even kept soaking up any extra water

Sorry to hear that. Is it fixable?

#253 5 years ago

I will let it dry for a day or so so see if it lets down a bit. This sux. The play field was almost glass prior to sanding.

#254 5 years ago
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#255 5 years ago

Im over it now. I brought this machine back from rough shape and I’m not going to let this eat me up. The areas that are affected are just the holes that go half way thru that hold the posts. 95% of the slightly raised areas are under the plastics anyways. I’m chalking this one up still as a win and something to learn from. Next time I will drill all the holes thru with a 1/16 bit do the water if collects can pass thru.

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#256 5 years ago

And the beat goes on.......

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#257 5 years ago

A bit closer to the finish line.

#258 5 years ago

Had a slight issue yesterday when first powering on the playfield. The solenoids on it were not working at all. Found out it was the playfield fuse that was blown. Simple multi meter test confirmed it and I did a quick fix. Today i should be able to start the posts and rubbers and a few other things.

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#259 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

The sounds are not right but that's because i replaced the potentiometers and they are now at different settings. I will have to figure out a way to possibly adjust later to get it sounding right.

It's looking real slick!

To set the tones on your SB100 sound board so the melodies are in tune, try this:
Open this online piano keyboard:
http://piano-player.info/

The following keys are the original high pitch tones the SB100 Rev-A board was tuned to:

Keep hitting a 10 point score and adjust the R2 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 38 (note C6) [1047Hz]

Keep hitting a 100 point score and adjust the R13 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 36 (note A5) [880Hz]

Keep hitting a 1000 point score and adjust the R6 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 34 (note F5) [698Hz]

If you find the high pitch tones are annoying, pitch them lower. There's a Stern modification which allows the board to be pitched right down which matches the later games:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board

#260 5 years ago

WOW!!! Looking really slick. You made a tons of progress.

That fuse, under the playfield..... Make sure it is no more than 1 AMP Slow-Blow. Otherwise, it will be more costly in coils....

I love the dark gray for the underneath of the playfield. It provides a nice contrast with all the gears.

Yves

#261 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's looking real slick!
To set the tones on your SB100 sound board so the melodies are in tune, try this:
Open this online piano keyboard:
http://piano-player.info/
The following keys are the original high pitch tones the SB100 Rev-A board was tuned to:
Keep hitting a 10 point score and adjust the R2 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 38 (note C6) [1047Hz]
Keep hitting a 100 point score and adjust the R13 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 36 (note A5) [880Hz]
Keep hitting a 1000 point score and adjust the R6 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 34 (note F5) [698Hz]
If you find the high pitch tones are annoying, pitch them lower. There's a Stern modification which allows the board to be pitched right down which matches the later games:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board

Thanks so much for this... i was wondering how to adjust this so its almost factory sounding.

#262 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's looking real slick!
To set the tones on your SB100 sound board so the melodies are in tune, try this:
Open this online piano keyboard:
http://piano-player.info/
The following keys are the original high pitch tones the SB100 Rev-A board was tuned to:
Keep hitting a 10 point score and adjust the R2 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 38 (note C6) [1047Hz]
Keep hitting a 100 point score and adjust the R13 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 36 (note A5) [880Hz]
Keep hitting a 1000 point score and adjust the R6 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 34 (note F5) [698Hz]
If you find the high pitch tones are annoying, pitch them lower. There's a Stern modification which allows the board to be pitched right down which matches the later games:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board

Are those the right notes for Lectronamo specifically?

#263 5 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

WOW!!! Looking really slick. You made a tons of progress.
That fuse, under the playfield..... Make sure it is no more than 1 AMP Slow-Blow. Otherwise, it will be more costly in coils....
I love the dark gray for the underneath of the playfield. It provides a nice contrast with all the gears.
Yves

Today i will install the white side rails and such. Just thinking about it in my head i think the white might not look the best. I might try the rails that gun metal colour I used on the coin door and ball return metal. Im also thinking that the apron might look better as gunmetal instead of the white. It would look sharp with some orange or blue colours on it that are actually on the play field.

#265 5 years ago

Looks great!

#266 5 years ago

So i just read something and noticed a comment on one of vids repair threads. Should i take apart my pop bumpers again to polish the rings. I never did that when installing them but did look them over and they are quite smooth and don't look rough at all.

#267 5 years ago

Looks amazing!

If the pop rings are the originals, they will be very smooth from years of play.

If they are brand new, they will be rough from the stamper.

-

#268 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's looking real slick!
To set the tones on your SB100 sound board so the melodies are in tune, try this:
Open this online piano keyboard:
http://piano-player.info/
The following keys are the original high pitch tones the SB100 Rev-A board was tuned to:
Keep hitting a 10 point score and adjust the R2 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 38 (note C6) [1047Hz]
Keep hitting a 100 point score and adjust the R13 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 36 (note A5) [880Hz]
Keep hitting a 1000 point score and adjust the R6 pot on the sound board until the frequency matches the white piano key 34 (note F5) [698Hz]
If you find the high pitch tones are annoying, pitch them lower. There's a Stern modification which allows the board to be pitched right down which matches the later games:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board

Cool @Quench, that's really interesting, those 3 musical notes match the tone of the original Stern metal chimes! The metal chimes in the older Sterns are: C5, F5, A5 & C6.

#269 5 years ago

Got all the posts in but the left exit lane one. Rubbers are on as are the plastics. Im not a huge fan of the white apron or sides. I honestly still think the gunmetal would sure make the playfield show off more. Feels a little ....dare I say......childish?.....with the white.

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#270 5 years ago

And with plastics on.

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#271 5 years ago

Fly by view lol.

#272 5 years ago

Beauty man!

#273 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Thanks so much for this... i was wondering how to adjust this so its almost factory sounding.

Note in your video on post #257, your increment bonus sound effect isn't right - it's sound #5 in solenoid test mode. Currently you're just getting a high pitch tone. Check out this YouTube video when the bonus increments and you'll see what I mean. This effect is not controlled by the pots. On the SB100 sound board it's enabled when pin 9 of U4 pulses high and the effect is generated by U19 (556 timer chip).

#274 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Note in your video on post #264, your increment bonus sound effect isn't right - it's sound #5 in solenoid test mode. Currently you're just getting a high pitch tone. Check out this YouTube video when the bonus increments and you'll see what I mean. This effect is not controlled by the pots. On the SB100 sound board it's enabled when pin 9 of U4 pulses high and the effect is generated by U19 (556 timer chip).

Thanks for this information. I did set the tones after i took that video and now it does sound completely different than the video I took. I will compare them to the video you just posted later today. Yesterday i played a few rounds on it and i need to do lots of contact adjusting. I did notice in the video that machine scores and responds way faster than mine does. Mine takes a while for scores to tally. My award bonus countdown is not as fast as the one in your video, and even stuff like the drop downs resetting take longer during play. I am using a new MPU board from NVRAM.

#275 5 years ago

Things or issues noticed during my first few plays.

Ball gets airborne LOTS from the flippers
Ball gets airboree LOTS from sling shots
Scores seem to tally slow during game play
Drop downs seem to reset slow
Pop bumpers need adjusting as they are not sensitive at all. Thought i had them set but will take a closer look at them
Some contacts are too close as at times when something else goes off another device might go off also from the vibration.
The new clear is smooth sanded and polished but it ball rolling sounds rough (could be just me as im still new to all this and the glass is off.

#276 5 years ago

In your video on post #257, the 5 bank drop target does take an eternity to reset. Did you notice when you manually dropped some of those targets they scored 1000 points instead of 500 points? Maybe those drop target switches need a good clean, or you have a switch matrix issue. BTW that video I linked is not mine.

#277 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

In your video on post #257, the 5 bank drop target does take an eternity to reset. Did you notice when you manually dropped some of those targets they scored 1000 points instead of 500 points? Maybe those drop target switches need a good clean, or you have a switch matrix issue. BTW that video I linked is not mine.

Another gent on another topic also confirmed a while ago that his drops also do not score the 500 each as noted on the plastic above but do something different.

#278 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Another gent on another topic also confirmed a while ago that his drops also do not score the 500 each as noted on the plastic above but do something different.

You mean this post?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lectronamo-just-quits#post-4567805

It's happening at random times which suggests dirty switches.
In emulation those drop targets each score 500 points only, every time.

#279 5 years ago

I will make today leaf switch day. I will sit down with my daughter and we can learn about rebuilding / cleaning and adjusting them. I never actually took the time yet to clean the exact contact areas.

#280 5 years ago

Don't over clean the switch contacts.

Gently pull a crisp, American $100 bill through the closed contacts (or you can use a non-glossy white business card), if you get a black stripe on the bill, pull one more time until you get a clean swipe.

If some idiot in the past used sandpaper to clean the contacts (you can see the scratches on the contacts), get new blades from PBR - there is no fixing them once the gold coating is sanded off

#281 5 years ago

I like the white rails and white apron.

#282 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Don't over clean the switch contacts.
Gently pull a crisp, American $100 bill through the closed contacts (or you can use a non-glossy white business card), if you get a black stripe on the bill, pull one more time until you get a clean swipe.
If some idiot in the past used sandpaper to clean the contacts (you can see the scratches on the contacts), get new blades from PBR - there is no fixing them once the gold coating is sanded off

This is all i have so i will need to go get some change.

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#283 5 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I like the white rails and white apron.

OK lets compromise. I will keep the rails white as I already have them repainted white from a few weeks ago. I need to fix the paint flaking on the apron anyways so i will blast it today and paint it gun metal. I can always re-blast it later if it looks bad.

#284 5 years ago

Shame none of the old part numbers cross over on Marco. Need to see what’s standard stern for sling shot leaf assemblies. Also can’t find a cross over for the stern listed wire roll overs.

#285 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

This is all i have so i will need to go get some change.
[quoted image]

#286 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Shame none of the old part numbers cross over on Marco. Need to see what’s standard stern for sling shot leaf assemblies. Also can’t find a cross over for the stern listed wire roll overs.

Sounds like a job for PBR

Even if they don't have the entire assembly, they will have the leaves themselves

#287 5 years ago

I cleaned all leaf contacts and now the drops read 500 each and reset instantly.

#288 5 years ago

On a side note I showed my boss my rebuild and he laughed as he said it was the same game he would spend money on all the time back in his younger years.

#289 5 years ago

Can someone please elaborate on number 11

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#290 5 years ago

I'd say that's related to size of step on counting down the bonus ladder when it's collected. Might be whether it breaks out the multiplier into separate steps (1000), or combines them so that each level of the ladder is just one step regardless of multiplier (Multiple).

Example, x3 Multiplier, 1000, 3000 bonus:

1000-1000-1000,pause,1000-1000-1000,pause,1000,1000,1000

Example, x3 Multiplier, Multiple, 3000 bonus:

3000,pause,3000,pause,3000

#291 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Thanks for this information. I did set the tones after i took that video and now it does sound completely different than the video I took. I will compare them to the video you just posted later today. Yesterday i played a few rounds on it and i need to do lots of contact adjusting. I did notice in the video that machine scores and responds way faster than mine does. Mine takes a while for scores to tally. My award bonus countdown is not as fast as the one in your video, and even stuff like the drop downs resetting take longer during play. I am using a new MPU board from NVRAM.

two things I can think of to slow down the racking up of point.

The CPU clock on the original boards is not very consistent MPU to MPU. The tolerance of the resistors and caps in the clock circuit of the original board is not very tight which may make the original MPUs have a faster clock speed than the nvram.weebly one which uses a fixed crystal for 0.5mhz clock. Seems like bally / stern was aiming for 0.5mhz.

The display interrupt timer can also vary game to game again because of resistor/cap tolerance. Rev 8 and above nvram.weebly MPUs have a trim pot to adjust the display interrupt speed from about 300 to 400hz. Per the theory of operation, bally/stern was aiming for 320hz. The trim pot was mostly added for seven digit games as those have a bit more flicker to them. Faster display interrupt the faster the CPU updates the displays which reduces the flicker. If the CPU is updating the displays more often than the original MPU it may rack up points slower as it is spending more time on the display interrupts. You can turn the DSP-INT trim pot on the MPU to the left and see if that helps. If you go to far to the left the display may start to have a noticeable flicker like an old CRT monitor set to 60hz. I did notice in my Mata Hari if i set the dsp int really fast, like over 400hz, the chimes would bang out slower.

#292 5 years ago

Easy fix.

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#293 5 years ago

Been pounding the ball around for a week now and trying to work out some quirks.

#1 The ball gets airborne lots when departing a flipper. I have made sure the rubbers are not installed too low thus causing a bulge below the ball center line. The flippers are the credit card distance from the table surface at the pivot axis and the flipper sweeps parallel with the play surface for the full stroke.

#2 the saucer ball eject at the top of the field ejects the ball too far to the left most of the time and it always goes into the bonus collect left lane over and over and over lol. Not sure how to adjust as there is no slots on the eject arm to actually slightly rotate it so it can kick out in a slightly different location.

#3 The flipper sseem weak when comparing them to other online videos of this game. If the ball is being flipped from it rolling down a lane it seems fine but when trying to return a ball that is coming directly to the flipper it cant seem to give it a good hard flick. The EOS leaf is set so it has a small gap when the flipper is at full stroke as per vids how-to posts.

#4 the spinner rotates very freely and does not bind but during a good hard ball hit and it spins like crazy it seems to not account for all the spins. Im playing with that leaf adjustment trying to find out what im doing wrong. My Balck Jack counts the spins perfectly when it spins crazy fast.

#5 had a paint malfunction on the skirt and i need to re-balst the full thing and start again.

#294 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

the saucer ball eject at the top of the field ejects the ball too far to the left most of the time and it always goes into the bonus collect left lane over and over and over lol. Not sure how to adjust as there is no slots on the eject arm to actually slightly rotate it so it can kick out in a slightly different location.

Just SLIGHTLY bend the kick out finger. A little curvature goes a long way.

Quoted from wolffcub:

#1 The ball gets airborne lots when departing a flipper. I have made sure the rubbers are not installed too low thus causing a bulge below the ball center line. The flippers are the credit card distance from the table surface at the pivot axis and the flipper sweeps parallel with the play surface for the full stroke.

How much side to side play is in the bushing?

Quoted from wolffcub:

#3 The flipper sseem weak when comparing them to other online videos of this game. If the ball is being flipped from it rolling down a lane it seems fine but when trying to return a ball that is coming directly to the flipper it cant seem to give it a good hard flick. The EOS leaf is set so it has a small gap when the flipper is at full stroke as per vids how-to posts.

Check flipper voltage.

Check cab switches.

The flipper strength is directly affected by how hard the EOS switch contacts are pressed together at rest - so we need to adjust the gap AND how strongly the contacts are sprung towards each other.

#295 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

#4 the spinner rotates very freely and does not bind but during a good hard ball hit and it spins like crazy it seems to not account for all the spins. Im playing with that leaf adjustment trying to find out what im doing wrong. My Balck Jack counts the spins perfectly when it spins crazy fast.

Replace the capacitor on the spinner switch

#296 5 years ago

Now that i look at it closer i did notice the pivot for the saucer has a serious amt of play in it. I will take up the play first and possibly that might be my problem.

The flipper assemblies are 100% new and there is almost no side play in the bushing.

The contacts for the flippers appear to be firm together on the flipper assembly but im not sure how firm they have to be. The are touching flat face to face with each other.

I will look into a new cap for the spinner switch

#297 5 years ago
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#298 5 years ago

Looks like the cap on the spinner switch is missing altogether

#299 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

The contacts for the flippers appear to be firm together on the flipper assembly but im not sure how firm they have to be. The are touching flat face to face with each other.

When you move one leaf away from the other, the 2nd leaf should follow towards the one you moved.

If the 2nd leaf is totally stationary, you do not have enough tension on it.

So, in other words, they can't just be touching, they have to have strong tension towards each other.

#300 5 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I will look into a new cap for the spinner switch

Quoted from vid1900:

Looks like the cap on the spinner switch is missing altogether

It is correct as is, the spinner switch should not have a cap.

Quoted from wolffcub:

The contacts for the flippers appear to be firm together on the flipper assembly but im not sure how firm they have to be. The are touching flat face to face with each other.

The bottom blade, the one with the linkage wire, should have just enough tension to keep the spinner vertical at rest. Then gap the other blade so the two make contact during 50% of the spinner rotation.

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