(Topic ID: 220903)
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Lectronamo
Stern Electronics, 1978
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So it’s been 6 hours. Going ba k to the booth soon. Should I stop here and let it harden till tomorrow at noon an try sanding it ? Or do I let it cure fully now and sand it in a few days ? Or do I give it another coat later tonight ?
If you give it a very very light sanding now you will be able to see where the low spots are. Cupped inserts, chipped out wood, post divots etc... will all still be shiny.
You can drip some clear into those low spots now while the clear is still fairly fresh. Then apply your next layer of clear so it all melts together. If you wait more than 24 hours you will definitely need to sand (including the low spots!) between layers of clear. You can also drip clear after applying a layer as you will probably still see where the low spots are.
Best to deal with the low spots very early on, the subsequent layers of clear will become easier and easier to sand if those get filled early.
Well I know for sure I need to take care of a few high and low spots. Think it’s ready to sand only after 6 hours ? Spray max says overnight for it being ready to polish. I will drive back to see it now. Stay close if possible I might need some advice after I see it.
Yeah it might be best to give it more time to cure before sanding (especially if this is the very first layer of clear).
***You definitely don't want to sand off that artwork!*** and the clear will still be a bit soft.
Just remember to lightly sand (including the low spots) after you give it more than 24 hours to cure. You want to give each layer something for the next layer to stick to.
I was not happy with how thin I put the first coats on so I gave it a nice cover this time. I will let it fully dry till tomorrow till noon and then see what I need to do. I’m certain it needs a level sand and possible dropper fills in a few areas. I’m thinking 600 grit to start ?
Quoted from klr650:Man, my little 7'x7' paint booth looks like a coffin compared to yours!
[quoted image]
Maybe so, but that's one helluva corpse. 
Ok so first sanding revealed lots of low spots due to damaged wood areas. Going to take the time to fill in a few low inserts and the low wood spots.
Also see two outlines that were knocked down and are now revealing white below. I must have really accidentally built the paint up in that area. I will air a new line over it just before I’m ready for the next full clear coat.
Quoted from wolffcub:Also see two outlines that were knocked down and are now revealing white below. I must have really accidentally built the paint up in that area. I will air a new line over it just before I’m ready for the next full clear coat.
My experience... You should let it harden to the point of the fingernail test before you sand and clear again. Try to scratch the clear with your fingernail, if your fingernail catches in to the clear, it’s not ready to sand.
There’s a great thread on restoring playfields that covers clearcoating by vid1900, it’s not hard to find... I’ll locate it real quick
Edit:
Here ya go...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
You’re doing great, keep it up!
Well getting to this point has been a really good learning experience. As of today I did learn the following.
1. If doing another play field that is or was damaged as this one was give it a light sand and then do a light clear. Take the time to then drop fill lower wood areas or planking areas and inserts prior to doing paint work. Get it flat and filled first then have at it.
2. pay more attention painting masking methods and as to what ones will cause higher built up areas. My method of using the narrow tape under tape then cut out was a bad idea. From now on it’s only leaving a gap between tape edges or using what I cut on the vinyl cutter.
3. Use a 2 part mix and not the spray can. The can product was great don’t get me wrong but having a clock ticking over your head to start it, wait to harden to the point to sand, then possibly need to fill holes and then harden again and then re spray is just a good way to mess up.
I never had the chance to get a final coat on it. My first spray was applied then 15 min later another spray as per instructions. Overnight cure time and it was hard so I could sand. 24 hours has elapsed. I see all the low spots but still decide to give it another shot as the time clock on the can is still ticking. 12 hours later I’m back inspecting it. Decide at that time just to make use of what’s in the can before it goes off I sprayed the rest into a cup and used a dropper to fill the damaged low areas and a few inserts.
24 hours later I return and start the lengthy and hard work of sanding the entire board till all the infilled areas are level and sanded it all so it’s all nice and smooth. So as it stands now I still need to do a final clear.
Paint in a few areas needs touched up because of my poor choice in masking at the beginning of the project. Also that one area that was built up due to me not using the actual “opaque” product line.
The cabinet has that awesome not perfect overspray on the sides and I’m actually really digging this play field sanding as is wore thru some paint making it looked slightly aged. I’m wondering if I should just clear it the way it is. Thoughts ?
53DAFECD-C00C-4920-AE36-7D147AA2ED97 (resized).jpeg55C24B9B-D2CD-4FB5-8A4C-64F8704689DB (resized).jpeg5E7DC231-BB87-4405-96C8-94A001FC63FC (resized).jpeg770F4FDA-5C9E-4423-8318-2579874E540C (resized).jpegD06071CF-F909-40AA-A6AC-7D750FCA9A56 (resized).jpegDDB89BF5-0ACD-482A-A924-D1A7ABC41805 (resized).jpegDE0F7E7D-FA90-4F23-8696-6402C148ECEF (resized).jpegI was thinking that your playfield would be a breeze after you had sanded it flat in the very beginning. I do feel your pain, this is usually the most stressful part of the job to be sure. And that Spraymax definitely gives you that "clock is ticking" sort of feeling.
Don't worry, and don't rush. At this point just consider your work to be "locked in." Touch up the artwork and continue on.
As per Vid's guide definitely sand lightly after you paint to knock down the edges of the masked areas.
In the very end, as you wait 3-6 months for the final clear to fully harden this touch-up time will be worth it.
I did sand it flat but still the damage left so many recessed areas still. I was hoping the clear would assist in filling up the areas but as vids even indicated it won’t.
Dang, it makes me sick seeing all that work to re-do, I did a paragon once, decided to lay the clear on thick, real thick, just so I wouldn’t lose any paint, It worked out. I did another playfield (meteor i think) thin not thinking and lost art, spent a bit of time re fixing that one, I’m there in spirit brother
Sana'a
Quoted from wolffcub:and I’m actually really digging this play field sanding as is wore thru some paint making it looked slightly aged. I’m wondering if I should just clear it the way it is. Thoughts ?
Hell no.
You will be sorry every time you look at it.
Fix it right, and it will probably be the best looking Lectroamo ever
So today I hooked it to power for the first time. Nothing melted yet but i have a question about he voltages at the new rectifier board. Stupid question but im going to assume all the voltages noted on the original schematic drawings are they supposed to match the test points on the new board. What I am getting on each point is way off.
LOOOOOL never mind........i need sleep. Might help if i had the correct setting selection on the test meter selected.
Toronto, ON
Rochester, NY
OMG!!!! It boots!!! Mpu light blinks the 6 times and GET THIS!!!!! the sound card works!!!! I get the boot sounds!!!!
The sounds are not right but that's because i replaced the potentiometers and they are now at different settings. I will have to figure out a way to possibly adjust later to get it sounding right.
Holy smokes. This is one of the best restoration threads I've seen in a long time. I'm getting tired of seeing all the restoration threads for ultra expensive games like Creature from the Black Lagoon or Twilight Zone. They're still cool, and I appreciate the work that goes into them, but it's like "Yay... Another flawless TZ. Nice." This particular restoration has me hooked, and is super refreshing to see, since you never see games like this look better than brand new. I wish more people tackled games like this. The games deserve it. Maybe I shouldn't have sold my Lectronamo!
Good luck moving forward!
Probably have to clear all the audits. Right now the game seems to think that the high score is 222222.
So i yelled at the machine and jiggled a bunch of wires to the LED boards and now its all good. It just blinks 00 as there is no high score yet. The credit display area does display 05 for some reason.
Quoted from wolffcub:jiggled a bunch of wires
Did you replace the crimp connectors?
Yes replaced all the connectors. All is working now and displaying perfect. Whatever it was is not an issue anymore. Not sure why but when the machine is turned on it always displays 5 credits. The dip switches dont offer any option out of the gate to go to 5 credits. Not sure if this is an option for the new MPU board just yet.
Now that I actually depleted the credits by hooking up the credit wire harness and pressing the front panel credit button it it stays at zero when turned off and on. Installed a test switch on the back of the coin door. The existing wires were just cut and off to the side when i got it. I found a momentary switch I had laying around so i drilled a hole and installed it. Works perfect. Self test #1 with the feature lights indicate no issues with the back board lights at all. Test #2 cycles thru all the LED digits and no issues, Test 3 for the solenoids has nothing to test but the solenoid driver relay and coin door solenoid at the moment and all is working there also.
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Ok the complete black line repaint is done and also did a few colour touch ups. Last pic of it before final clear.
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At the paint shop now doing the first clear lay down then the second in 15 min then I walk away.
Going to sit here and gab as I wait the 15 min. If anyone new to refinishing a play field is reading this listen to these words “clear and fill it first if it’s badly damaged prior to painting”. Filling the low spots / inserts first and having a smooth and nice surface is way easier to work on. I was able to do all the black lines in 10hours vs the week it took me before.
Also disregard the post I made in how I was doing my lines. My way was stupid and is best done by just laying two strips of tape down and not going over anything with a blade unless you really need to follow a custom shape. I will make a reference in the post to read it but not follow it.
10 min to go.........
New parts came in yesterday so after the clear is all finished and cured for a bit I can possibly start repopulating the play field. Thinking I would only focus on the underside stuff so the top has nothing screwing into the clear for a while.
I bought so new Mylar pop skirts. Should I still use them after using a clear like this ?
5 min to go .......
Got a new set of Molex end crimps so I’m going to sit down and replace all the small wire connectors now on the play field harness.
Also got new flipper assemblies as the old ones looked tired and worn. Figured why rebuild if the new ones with solinoids are just a bit more.
And ready for second coat !
To be honest, I didn’t think I was going to like the dark wood accents at first, but seeing it now, I think it might actually look better than the original. It really makes the lightning bolts stand off the playfield in a really nice way. Excellent work!
What’s the trick taking off the bottom metal Handel ledge. It’s actually shifted on one side by 1/4” and it does not fit proper in the back cab. It on there good and I can’t pry it off to clean and re center it.
795438DF-ABCC-4046-882B-BF047716B6E3 (resized).jpeg8225BAF0-E696-4156-814D-F9DB1F7CAD32 (resized).jpegThanks for the comments guys ! At least it lets me know I’m on the right track.
The bottom of the glass is bad but the rest is not that bad. You should see my blackjack machine one, it’s bad !
It is now time for Scott's thoughts...............
Dear Lectronamo you puzzle me so,
Are these Lightning bolts or S's does anyone know?
You confuse me with the stars on your caps that total three,
Why not also use lightning bolts for everyone to see?
Is it all about pinball design and layout herein?
Or was it just Friday at 4:50 and Stern phoned it in?
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