Holy smokes you are quick! It's very cool to watch a restoration thread with so much progress in so little time! Great work on everything so far! 
(Topic ID: 220903)
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Lectronamo
Stern Electronics, 1978
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Quoted from Gunnut40:Oh nice! Picked one up about 3 months ago so needed this thread.
Can you please see if the blue back board
Standoff has black splatter on it. I want to paint it correctly.
Spottsville, KY
Quoted from wolffcub:Ran a bunch of parts in the sonic cleaner today and also did some glass blasting on others.
How about replacing these old plastic sleeves with new ones?
Yves
Quoted from Arcane:How about replacing these old plastic sleeves with new ones?
Yves
Yep coil sleeves are cheap.
She is back on her legs ! Started to reinstall the cabinet harness. Still waiting on the new grounding strap to arrive so not everything is fully installed yet.
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I also made the decision to not send out the parts behind the coin door to get them plated. I will instead use the money to buy more replacement play field parts.
1D6C3FCF-1CD7-4C2E-BC15-291383C3DDF9 (resized).jpeg27A7C02E-F2D7-42D8-88AE-0F40218E2A53 (resized).jpeg5BED0BE5-AF2C-4E1F-B3EB-779761FCDB9F (resized).jpeg85E158B7-A4B2-4EA7-A770-6F94B6B1422A (resized).jpegE7AE5AFE-90CE-4E9A-88AD-CA574B96AB4B (resized).jpegF610D9DA-5DDA-4BD5-9842-1AF8D2D9C2B1 (resized).jpegIf you are looking to print out some brand new signs / warning labels and apron cards for your machine, Inkochnito appears to have all the resources for Lectronamo on his website:
Also be sure to send a donation his way, he is doing some really great work!
I will look into what he has. Anywhere you know who has the grounding strap material on weekends ? I’m bored and don’t want to wait week for my marco order.
Moved the cabinet into the basement so I can now focus on the back board. Looks like I’m in for one hell of a ride !
14487AA5-7F71-4ED8-A3D8-CD3121E5FA42 (resized).jpeg2E975959-72D6-4D4E-B641-0EA6F5F916EE (resized).jpeg81BEEBC9-6160-42FA-97B4-71D4E14660C5 (resized).jpeg8E241111-63BC-4A8E-8252-663FB4B45089 (resized).jpegB6FEE6EF-56C2-436D-8338-C879B805E68A (resized).jpegCCB9AF79-3C5F-49D3-9880-F20A90BC53D9 (resized).jpegWhat is the general method of cleaning boards ? Think its ok to put the board in the sonic cleaner with de mineralized water ?
02081612-DE17-46EF-B8AA-919E8E9438B6 (resized).jpeg4C4B2979-4DFF-4F10-824A-71DC891A1045 (resized).jpeg9CA558B1-CC35-4EA8-A57F-305574EDC0C4 (resized).jpegDDACC6CA-492B-4C31-B7F7-288A1687F546 (resized).jpegOk so if the dishwasher is safe I’m sure the sonic way is ok also. I did the sound card and then gave it a alcohol bath right after.
All clean. The front leg on this thingy Ma gig is not attached should be a easy fix.
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Wow, that sound card looks great after cleaning!
MPU board - definitely clip off that NiCad battery, it's leaking caustic/base onto the board. And its not going to hold a charge anyhow so best that it's disposed of right away.
That MPU board already has some leakage damage. Do you want to fart around all day and try to repair it (or fail to get it fixed)? Or do you want to actually boot up the game and play it right away? Personally, I've worked on so many battery damaged boards over the years, I've grown weary of all the work needed to be done just to get the boards to boot up. Then there could be other board problems too. I vote for getting a brand new board.
Know what sucks? Not being able to buy from nvram.weebly.com or Pinitech because they don't ship to Canada.
EDIT
Issue fixed. I was going thru pinside marketplace. Just go directly to these guys and there is no issue.
Quoted from wolffcub:Know what sucks? Not being able to buy from nvram.weebly.com or Pinitech because they don't ship to Canada.
Pretty sure we both do, but possibly just not through Pinside Shops.
Unfortunately I was finding the limited shipping options through Pinside Shops difficult to create international shipping rules that worked for heavier items -- and was getting bitten a few times with high international shipping charges. So it was just easier to do away with international shipping on my Pinside Shop.
Canada, Australia, NZ orders can still be placed via the main Pinitech website (shopping cart). Sorry for the confusion there.
OK order placed thru your Pinitech site. Just so everyone knows whats going on it that i got some new sound board cables and mine are chewed thru, 5 x led amber score display units and foam blocks from Pinitech.
So on a side note if you look at the start of my build what do you think the valve of this machine should have been? in Usd funds
Quoted from wolffcub:OK order placed thru your Pinitech site. Just so everyone knows whats going on it that i got some new sound board cables and mine are chewed thru, 5 x led amber score display units and foam blocks from Pinitech.
Cool! The foam blocks ship with the full display kits now, so I'll get you a refund on those.
Should be able to get the order out today for you
It would be nice to rebuild the sound board for one reason: AFAIK, this was the very first Classic Stern to have electronic sound.
I guess it all depends on how much you enjoy soldering! Speaking of soldering, did you buy the Pinitech displays unassembled? Are they the UNO displays? I really enjoyed putting a set of those together, those black circuit boards are beautiful.
Bring to boil, reduce to simmer and cover for 20 min. Well at least that’s what the bag said.
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Cleaned the back board wiring harnesses today. Found some areas 4 legged monsters decided to have a snack. Will only cut out the damaged areas and re-solder in new sections. The replacement wires I use will not match colour but gauge will be the same.
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I cut the harness off the back of the light board so I could clean it and do some work to the board back. After cleaning I tinned the tips do it’s ready to solder back on. I don’t think I’m going to touch or paint the back of the light board. 7B5C3CD1-EA02-43E7-B730-8CA40F3272C6 (resized).jpeg
I think i found someone who has old harnesses that i can get to hack out wire bits to match the harness i have now. Im also going to order all new connector ends and redo all the backboard harness ends and resolder new pins to the boards as required. Simple order form digi key should do the trick.
Lectronamo shouldnt be too bad, it has fewer wires going into the cabinet since both the transformer and the rectifier board are in the head. But it makes it a real pig to lift that head though!
Coolangatta
Yikes. I have an Atari Football project with a similar wiring harness..some rat gnawed spots that I need to patch. Coulda been worse!?!
Keep posting..
I have a Stern Dracula that I got burned out and quit on. I Have the cabinet painted in the basecoat, but planned to scan and vectorize the tracings to make stencils. I need to work on it again..
Im almost ready to do a order from digi key for new harness ends. Can someone point me in the right direction for new caps for the solenoid board and sound board. Reason for asking is that I see threads and other sites saying their packages are better than others and im SO lost. The paper on the left is the info i was able to get off of the existing units.
IMG_0035 (resized).JPGGet Nichicon caps and you won't go wrong. Some of the sellers like arcadepartsandrepair may be cheaper in kit form as he buys in such large quantity. I've ordered from Mouser and Jameco many times and if I want a cap kit for a monitor, it's a PITA to do it that way, as I have to sort the mess out when I get all in a box.
This slow down in progress is killing me but I’m just so tired these evenings for some reason. Got some more done today. Busted out the old bottom on the back board as the smell was bad from the damage.
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Made a new bottom and installed it.
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Started some of the patch / repair work.
Slow. I got the back board cabinet almost all finished, Still need to do the black splatter on it and clear it.
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Gave the light board a light spray of primer as it was bare wood before.
Started on the play field today and things are not working out. The wood is so badly cracked and chipped in areas the paint really brings it out. I should have skimmed the full thing first with glazing putty and sanding it again. I might just abandon ship and re-sand it again and start over. The Craftex paint that is recommended does not cover like what I am used to with my modeling paints. After about 6 coats any grey or darker damaged wood ares in the wood show thru. I need to find something similar to a high hide primer to lay a base coat first.
Quoted from wolffcub:The Craftex paint that is recommended does not cover like what I am used to with my modeling paints. After about 6 coats any grey or darker damaged wood ares in the wood show thru. I need to find something similar to a high hide primer to lay a base coat first.
Wicked Colours are not opaque enough for this purpose.
I'm using Opaque series from Createx as much as possible as the basis for my colour mixes.
Or if you prefer: Createx also provides Autoborne Sealers in many colours to be used as an initial primer.
Quoted from g94:Wicked Colours are not opaque enough for this purpose.
I'm using Opaque series from Createx as much as possible as the basis for my colour mixes.
Or if you prefer: Createx also provides Autoborne Sealers in many colours to be used as an initial primer.
I was wondering if the other lines were more opaque. I will grab some of the others today and give them a shot.
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