Anyone have the wiring installation for the Stern jurassic park lit shooter rod? Mine didn't come with any
Anyone have the wiring installation for the Stern jurassic park lit shooter rod? Mine didn't come with any
Quoted from jrio101:Anyone have the wiring installation for the Stern jurassic park lit shooter rod? Mine didn't come with any
There are some posts in the club threads. I think the connector should go to CN15
Quoted from jrio101:Anyone have the wiring installation for the Stern jurassic park lit shooter rod? Mine didn't come with any
I am missing the cable to hook up the shooter rod can someone post pics of the actual cable to hook it up! I will have to email stern or see if someone can make me one
The shooter rod plate for a lighted amber rod has two LEDs cut into the surface. Those LEDs are wired to a couple of feet of cable with a .100" nylon connector on the end that plugs into CN15. Are you saying you got the amber rod and the shooter rod plate with the two LEDs installed, but the LEDs weren't connected to anything on the back?
Quoted from Markharris2000:The shooter rod plate for a lighted amber rod has two LEDs cut into the surface. Those LEDs are wired to a couple of feet of cable with a .100" nylon connector on the end that plugs into CN15. Are you saying you got the amber rod and the shooter rod plate with the two LEDs installed, but the LEDs weren't connected to anything on the back?
I only have the Rod, no plate and no wires to hook it up unfortunately. I can modify the plate but would need to see if someone can make the wires for me. I have sent a few emails to stern but no response yet
Quoted from TonyScoots:I only have the Rod, no plate and no wires to hook it up unfortunately. I can modify the plate but would need to see if someone can make the wires for me. I have sent a few emails to stern but no response yet
Where did you get the Amber ROD? Is it the official Stern version? I thought that Stern ONLY supplied the shooter rod and mounting plate as a full kit. I am a bit confused what you have in hand right now. There are other non-Stern suppliers that have also supplied JUST THE ROD, but I am not sure Stern will sell you the lighted mounting shooter plate separately.
That said, I think it would be straight forward if you had some tech savvy person help you drill two LED's into the shooter plate and add the two 150-220 ohm resistors and a couple feet of stranded wiring and a nylon CN15 connector.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Where did you get the Amber ROD? Is it the official Stern version? I thought that Stern ONLY supplied the shooter rod and mounting plate as a full kit. I am a bit confused what you have in hand right now. There are other non-Stern suppliers that have also supplied JUST THE ROD, but I am not sure Stern will sell you the lighted mounting shooter plate separately.
That said, I think it would be straight forward if you had some tech savvy person help you drill two LED's into the shooter plate and add the two 150-220 ohm resistors and a couple feet of stranded wiring and a nylon CN15 connector.
It’s an official Stern Rod, I bought it off OfferUp from a collector who sold his JP, unfortunately it’s my fault because when I bought it and then installed it a month and a half went by. I went to install and open the box only to see the shooter rod, for some reason I didn’t know at the time it came with a bracket & hookup wires. I have messaged the seller who says he doesn’t know where it is.
B6098EB0-4251-48C6-A8D9-00EF7D285B3C (resized).jpegGot it. There is a second cable missing. It has the CN15 keyed 6-position female connector at one end and the 4-pin MOLEX connector on the other. These are connected with about 2 feet of wire. You could make it if you got the connectors from Marco or similar and some hookup wire from home depot. Did you try to BUY it from Stern? It should have a part number. I think the parts guys can be reached at "[email protected]" and they can tell you what it would cost.
While I don't have one of these, here is what I think you are trying to build/buy (Note: pin numbers may be wrong as I am trying to do this visually from posted pictures):
Shooter-LED (resized).jpg
Quoted from Markharris2000:Got it. There is a second cable missing. It has the CN15 keyed 6-position female connector at one end and the 4-pin MOLEX connector on the other. These are connected with about 2 feet of wire. You could make it if you got the connectors from Marco or similar and some hookup wire from home depot. Did you try to BUY it from Stern? It should have a part number. I think the parts guys can be reached at "[email protected]" and they can tell you what it would cost.
While I don't have one of these, here is what I think you are trying to build/buy (Note: pin numbers may be wrong as I am trying to do this visually from posted pictures):
[quoted image]
Mark,
Thank you so much! I am going to build it, I have also emailed stern to see what happens but thank you for so much help and info
Tony
Quoted from Markharris2000:Got it. There is a second cable missing. It has the CN15 keyed 6-position female connector at one end and the 4-pin MOLEX connector on the other. These are connected with about 2 feet of wire. You could make it if you got the connectors from Marco or similar and some hookup wire from home depot. Did you try to BUY it from Stern? It should have a part number. I think the parts guys can be reached at "[email protected]" and they can tell you what it would cost.
While I don't have one of these, here is what I think you are trying to build/buy (Note: pin numbers may be wrong as I am trying to do this visually from posted pictures):
[quoted image]
Found the Schematic for the Cabinet Board on Stern's site, and looking at CN15 it appears the common is Vcc (plus) and they switch the GND for each LED. I have updated the pinouts as I see it.
Shooter3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Markharris2000:Found the Schematic for the Cabinet Board on Stern's site, and looking at CN15 it appears the common is Vcc (plus) and they switch the GND for each LED. I have updated the pinouts as I see it.
[quoted image]
I'm surprised no one has grabbed the reigns and started making a shooter housing with lights like these for use with Jurassic Park and Stranger Things 3rd party shooter rods.
I'm not sure if or how the 2 controlled lights are implemented in the code on each game or even if the Jurassic Park and Stranger Things Stern shooter housings are wired the same on them both. They could very easily use the "Spare LED 3 and 4" connections on one and the "Spare LED 5 and 6" connections on the other.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Found the Schematic for the Cabinet Board on Stern's site, and looking at CN15 it appears the common is Vcc (plus) and they switch the GND for each LED. I have updated the pinouts as I see it.
[quoted image]
I rescind my thumbs up for your schematic post....as i think it is incorrect.
Here is a pic that someone posted of the wiring they got with their Stern Jurassic Park shooter rod. This is what plugs into the CN15 connection. It appears the 3rd and 4th pins are used and not the 5th and 6th pins as you have designated.
Quoted from DugFreez:I rescind my thumbs up for your schematic post....as i think it is incorrect.
Here is a pic that someone posted of the wiring they got with their Stern Jurassic Park shooter rod. This is what plugs into the CN15 connection. It appears the 3rd and 4th pins are used and not the 5th and 6th pins as you have designated.
[quoted image]
On the stern schematic for the cabinet node board, they show the CN15 key at position 2 and +5vcc on pin 1. It also shows pin 3,4,5 and 6 all controllable, but as you show, the software must be controlling 3&4 instead of 5&6. Just replace 5&6 on my schematic with 3&4.
Good to go
Quoted from Markharris2000:Updated pinouts to reflect the JP1.0x software driving pin 3&4 on the CN15 connector.
[quoted image]
Thank you Mark, looking forward to making this
take a look here: https://www.amazon.com/Molex-4-Circuits-Receptacle-Terminal-STANDARD/dp/B079CR36WX
Looks the same to me
So my kit came complete. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.
I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through?
Quoted from mbrave77:So my kit came complete. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.
I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through?
Yes, the plate on the back is modified to allow wires to run thru it. You have to replace front and back. I suggest that you use blue painters tape to mark the exact location of the front plate on the cabinet front. Once you reinstall the new shooter plate, use the blue tape outline to make sure it’s aligned properly. I have pictures in my previous post in the JP thread
Quoted from Markharris2000:Updated pinouts to reflect the JP1.0x software driving pin 3&4 on the CN15 connector.
[quoted image]
If I were to use one of these in a homemade cabinet (virtual pinball), would I need to include the resistors, or are they already in the wiring harness?
Thank you!
Quoted from scampa123:If I were to use one of these in a homemade cabinet (virtual pinball), would I need to include the resistors, or are they already in the wiring harness?
Thank you!
The kit from Stern just needs power. The resistors are built in. That said, on a JP machine, they plug into CN15 which has a nice strobe effect built into the software driving the two power pins in a pulsed fashion. In a Virtual cabinet, you wouldn’t have that pulsing effect, but any source of positive voltage will work.
Quoted from Markharris2000:The kit from Stern just needs power. The resistors are built in. That said, on a JP machine, they plug into CN15 which has a nice strobe effect built into the software driving the two power pins in a pulsed fashion. In a Virtual cabinet, you wouldn’t have that pulsing effect, but any source of positive voltage will work.
Thank you for the response! This really helps. I'm not worried about the pulse (though it sounds neat), I just didn't want to burn out the leds!
I am planning to powder coat the lit amber shooter rod housing, but I'm worried I will destroy the two led's trying to remove them before sending out the housing.
Is there a way to remove them without causing damage? Is there a specific replacement part number for them if they are damaged? Not exactly sure how they are secured to the housing, or if they will just pop out if pushed from the front.
It looks like they were permanently glued in, and they were ever meant to be removed.
disregard. It was just attached with a little hot glue. I was able to scrape it off, and the led could be pushed out in the front.
The first one popped off easily. But the 2nd one broke. I can now glue it, or try to find the replacement.
Does anyone know what the part number is for this little clear little amber LED light?
20220425_143516 (resized).jpgQuoted from RTS:disregard. It was just attached with a little hot glue. I was able to scrape it off, and the led could be pushed out in the front.
The first one popped off easily. But the 2nd one broke. I can now glue it, or try to find the replacement.
Does anyone know what the part number is for this little clear little amber LED light?
[quoted image]
Any amber led would work, but make sure you drill the hole to fit the led before you send the plate out for power coat. LEDs come in lots of sizes…
Quoted from Markharris2000:Any amber led would work, but make sure you drill the hole to fit the led before you send the plate out for power coat. LEDs come in lots of sizes…
Thank you for this advice! I drilled out the holes slightly larger so that they could fit a more standard sized LED. I had plenty of led's on-hand, and confirmed that they worked properly in the game.
I think the larger 5mm led's will be better. They protrude a bit more and hopefully will project more light onto the knob. The originals were almost too tiny to create a decent glow.
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