Recently picked up a spare Ironmonger figure for my IM & I want to do the chest led mod.
Can't seem to find much info on this.
Anyone done this mod themselves that can give some advice?
(Topic ID: 68498)
Harrisburg, PA
It's really simple, but you have to be careful when drilling the Monger. You'll want a pinball life white frosted LED. It fits perfect in the arc reactor.
First, take out the Monger. Drill from the front directly in the center of the arc reactor all the way through with a small pilot bit, like 1/8". Drill from the front again with a bit the same diameter as the LED lense. From the back, drill with a bit the diameter of the LED back housing. Be careful not to go too far. Do a little at a time and test the fitment of the LED until it's flush with the front of the Monger.
After the drilling, solder some wires to the LED, hot glue the LED in the back, and re-install the Monger. After reinstalling, wire the LED to a convenient GI location.
Quoted from Allibaster:It's really simple, but you have to be careful when drilling the Monger. You'll want a pinball life white frosted LED. It fits perfect in the arc reactor.
First, take out the Monger. Drill from the front directly in the center of the arc reactor all the way through with a small pilot bit, like 1/8". Drill from the front again with a bit the same diameter as the LED lense. From the back, drill with a bit the diameter of the LED back housing. Be careful not to go too far. Do a little at a time and test the fitment of the LED until it's flush with the front of the Monger.
After the drilling, solder some wires to the LED, hot glue the LED in the back, and re-install the Monger. After reinstalling, wire the LED to a convenient GI location.
Thanks for the tips.
Couldn't warrant paying $135 plus international shipping for a pre-modded monger figure from pinballdecals.
Picked up a spare monger figure for $20 locally.
So with the led I don't need a socket & what type of led is best - #555 or #44?
No socket. 555 LED. Just solder the wires to the small pins on the LED housing. Test it before you secure it in the Monger, too.
Awesome mod, and super cheap if you do it yourself. I did similar mods on Whiplash and War Machine too. They look great all around.
Quoted from Allibaster:It's really simple,
For some, Re installing it and drilling the legs and then lining them up was a pain for me.
I make them for PBD.
You used a 5mm LED with resistor and drill out the center of the chest with a bit slightly larger than 5mm.
Drill out the back slide of he figure near the waist then slide the led preinstalled on your wire, with epoxy on it, into the hole and let it dry overnight.
Fill chest with resin of some sort and your golden.
Predrill all holes for screws .
Quoted from Incognito:I have a spare one from pinball refinery I would sell for half of what I paid. As far as designing your own I have no idea.
How much? I might be interested.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:For some, Re installing it and drilling the legs and then lining them up was a pain for me.
The example I gave was using the stock Monger. No lining up or drilling.
I can see how using a figure may be more difficult.
Quoted from HOOKED:I make them for PBD.
You used a 5mm LED with resistor and drill out the center of the chest with a bit slightly larger than 5mm.
Drill out the back slide of he figure near the waist then slide the led preinstalled on your wire, with epoxy on it, into the hole and let it dry overnight.
Fill chest with resin of some sort and your golden.
Predrill all holes for screws .
Received my Iron Monger figure today. It's a Stern replacement part not an off the shelf version.
This Stern version is resin filled already.
I'm a little confused on what LED type I should use - Standard #555 6.3vdc type or like HOOKED mentioned a 5mm led with ? value resistor?
Quoted from Allibaster:Either way would work. The Pinball Life white frosted fits like it was made for the arc reactor and is diffused with the frosted finish, which I appreciate (personal preference).
I agree with the frosted led look & will be going that route.
Are the pinball life frosted leds no flicker? I have some ablaze frosted white leds on hand & they flicker.
Will be wiring the monger chest led into the GI also.
2 weeks later
8 months later
Here you go conserx, this is what you are looking for!
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1882
I am not sure where people have been wiring into, but not the flasher, you want the arc reactor to be lit, not flashing IMO, best of luck
Greg
Www.pinballpro.com
Quoted from ovfdfireman:Here you go conserx, this is what you are looking for!
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1882
I am not sure where people have been wiring into, but not the flasher, you want the arc reactor to be lit, not flashing IMO, best of luck
Greg
http://Www.pinballpro.com
The old method with modded figures was to wire the chest led to GI but with the vault edition Stern has the monger led wired as a controlled flasher (#28 ORN-BLK/YEL) so it would be easy to wire up.
Wish I could see some gameplay of the vault edition so I can see the behavior of the monger chest led,
After that I'll weigh up which method looks the best & go with it.
1 year later
Thought I would update my old thread here.
I did eventually install my new Iron Monger figure into my machine. I used a frosted #44 & wired directly to the LED. With the latest software installed I ran a wire from the LED to J6-4 & the other with a resistor inline to a nearby flasher. The chest LED behaves just the same way as it does in the Vault Edition & I chose that method rather wiring it to the GI.
3 months later
Regina, SK
If you use a bulb intended for pinball GI or inserts, there is no resistor required.
No issue with my Pinball Life bulb.
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