Corolla, NC
I bought an LE. $11300 plus $425 shipping
(Topic ID: 300354)
Linked Games
Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021-
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
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Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021
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1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from wfumed2:Palmer Where do you place the single sub? Does it sound like the sub sound is coming from across the room when playing a machine not closest to the sub?
I have several games hooked to one sub with the Pinnovators splitter. It really doesn't matter where the sub is located as the sub adds a "fullness" to the sound and doesn't serve the same function as a normal speaker. You really can't tell where the sound is coming from but you know it does sound a heck of a lot better. BTW I got my last PSW 10 rebox from Accessories4less for $90. They shipped fast and in a factory box
Quoted from delt31:Nice - do you have a link to the product? I might split a few then instead buying more!
Go to Pinnovators and plug in your games. Buy an outlet (about $35 each) and a splitter (about $85). It's true you can solder onto your cabinet speaker and do this yourself but Pinnovators does it neatly and reversibly. Also the splitter let's you adjust the subwoofer volume individually.
Quoted from NashtyFunk:Stayed home all day to receive my LE. Fedex still says it's gonna be delivered today but it's not. It's been in my general area since Friday. Talk about first world problems. Hopefully it gets in tomorrow.
Exact same for me-now FedEx says tomorrow instead of today.
Quoted from Beyndtstng:Just got my LE. I have a node board 8 over current error. Reseated everything and it removed the trough error but over current is still there. I have no white GI lights in the lower playfield. Can anyone assist?
Follow your bad GI lights to the node board that controls them. With machine on push on the wires (not connectors) and see if you can get the lights to flicker. If this works remove that connector, push wire to reseat the pin in the connector, reconnect . Do this to each connection on that node board
Quoted from kse001:Anyone who has fiddled around with their sound and gotten good results mind sharing their settings? My LE sounds a bit flat compared to some other games.
I set music attenuation minus 10 and speech attenuation plus 10. Also added powered sub.
Quoted from Txcoastal1:I've got my sub, just haven't had to to hookup. Does the sub improve the game sound?
Yes, a lot.
Since the Drake building is offset to the left flipper I don't see how gravity is going to make it go SDTM. Make sure the machine is level left to right measuring side to side from the bottom glass and top glass. If you still have a problem try measuring with the glass off to make sure the playfield was installed properly or warped. At any rate you should be able to raise the right two legs until the pin plays as it should.
Quoted from kermit24:Not so sure about this one. "We" may know how, but don't always do a great job.
But I'm thinking its mainly differences in pitch. A game at 6.3 vs a game at 6.9 is going to behave much differently. Also small variations in the building and where it stops.
All I'm saying is you can build a 50 ft 2x4 ramp and a ball will come out the middle everytime if it's level and even. If everything is level then you have to look to something else but do the easy stuff first. If the Drake building is off I'd look to fixing this. Maybe you could just add washers under the clear plastic it rolls off of.
(I'm sorry , I used the wrong quote)
Quoted from Jecco74:It's not just Stern. I ordered a new Ford Aug 2nd. Still waiting for it to be built. It's behind schedule. Parts shortages are holding up more than just our pinball machines.
I ordered a new Ford 7/15/2020. It was but 8/6/21. I still don't have it
Quoted from TaylorVA:I haven’t noticed any issue with flipper strength and I usually play for hours at a time.
Me neither though it's noticable in LZ so I added a USB fan there .
1 week later
Quoted from Palmer:I bought one of these banks. It is definitely too tall out of the box. You will need to cut down the bottom a little bit. For the few that have used this model, how did you attach it once you cut the bottom down? Seems like you lose all of the surface area since it is hollow.
I just installed mine. It's a tight, tight fit but worth it. I had to Dremel the right elbow a bit. GZ is too tall but I kind of tucked him in as I slid the glass back so I didn't have to cut off the base.
PXL_20211210_190418741 (resized).jpgPXL_20211210_190435056 (resized).jpgPXL_20211210_190455727 (resized).jpgQuoted from Palmer:Did you attach it at all or is it just sitting there?
You need to remove the clear plastic GZ is sitting on. I did not replace any screws or spacers behind GZ as you can't get to them and this allows the new GZ to pivot so you can get the glass back on. I screwed the new GZ onto the base as the old one but only used 1screw. I attached the hex nut near the left toe and screw on the right toe to hold the plastic holding GZ in place. I had to Dremel GZs right toe a bit to clear the screw. You may need Dremel the GZ spikes a bit to clear the trail behind GZ.
Quoted from Palmer:Sorry I was talking about the Godzilla bank...not the MechaGodzilla
I would say about 1/2 inch would do it to make GZ clear. Trouble is that would cut off the mounting base.
I worked on the GZ bank a little more and I got him full size under the glass without having to do a fancy head tuck thing everytime glass was removed. I also angled the spot upward. A pull tie around a GZ tail spike and habitrail gives GZ enough lean to do the trick. I also shaved a little off the right GZ elbow and right leg. You must clear the building mech so it will raise and lower so be careful about that, hence the need to shave the right elbow. This way you don't have to cut off the GZ bottom and you can mount GZ as the original was.
PXL_20211211_133555984 (resized).jpgQuoted from Palmer:Looks great. His left hand isn't going to stop the building from dropping? Maybe it is just the angle of the photo.
No but it's close.
Thanks to whomever came up with this bank mod. Looks great and is pretty cheap!.
Here's the difference better viewed:
PXL_20211211_164054446 (resized).jpgQuoted from BallyKISS1978:Unfortunately not. I ordered a set from wizard mod in the UK.
https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/godzilla-stern-pinball-wizblades
[quoted image][quoted image]
Everything Wizards mods sells is great. Check out the speaker surrounds and apron covers as well. Only problem is it takes about 2 weeks to receive your order ( company in Europe)
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Hey wtatumjr - quick question: what did you use to secure these figures? Thanks!
I screwed it in from the underside of the plastic, like the original, using the existing screw hole but drilled GZ. I only used one screw instead of two. I also added a pull tie around a GZ back fin to the habitrail to make GZ lean so he will clear the glass. I had to shave the GZ right elbow and
Right foot area a bit
Quoted from DeathHimself:I think he might be talking about your roof figures.
I used super glue gel. It might be a better idea to put down mylar first as someone suggested. I used the backyard barbecue set but they make a Beatles rooftop concert HO scale set that would look neat as well.
Quoted from Allibaster:Is this the bank people are referring to?
[quoted image]
That's the one.
Quoted from Magicmike0:Are you guys buying aftermarket Art blades? I haven’t seen the stern ones out yet.
Take a look a Wizard mods. And check out the speaker surrounds too. Very nice quality products but takes about 2 weeks to receive your order as they are overseas.
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Anyone here have any experience with custom backbox lighting kits? Thinking about getting one for GZ, but I do like the ability for the stock backbox lighting brightness to dim on gameplay and brighten in attract mode. Wondering if a sight-unseen lighting pattern is worth the functional trade-off... Anybody here tried one of these before?
I put interactive backlighting in my Aerosmith only because the original was failing and the cost was less than a new board...if you could even find one. I'm pleased with it but I think $200 could be better spent somewhere else if given a choice
Here's my "Lucky Joe" Diddy power pole sitter. I got my highest score immediately after installing him. It is said he can swat down air balls to protect the towers but I'm not sure- his arms are pretty small. It you want one mail me a self addressed envelope and PM me.
PXL_20211221_141143045 (resized).jpgQuoted from blueberryjohnson:Help request: Recently, my left slingshot trigger has ended up on the other side of the rubber. After putting it back a few times i looked to see if there was an underlying cause and discovered that the top screw (? Not sure if the correct term) on the slingshot was popped up a good bit out of the playfield when compared to its counterpart on the right side as well as the bottom screw on the left.
I took off the glass to push the screw fully down and discovered i couldn't get it to go all the way through. Comparing the top and bottom holes, I see that the bottom has a recessed ring around the top of the hole while the top does not. I'm assuming both are supposed to.
Any recommendations on what I can do to get the screw to go fully through the playfield? I notice that there is already a little damage around each hole (more on the top) due to the slingshot frame popping out.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Since you've already discovered Comet there's nothing more I can add. They have a great product at very cheap prices and you get candy too. You can get trough lighting or add spot lights very cheaply. The Comet and Wizard mod sites I spend most of my money on
Sorry! I should have used the Pinkoft quote.
Quoted from troon47:Hi all,
I have a couple of questions after watching this review. I've just had my LE a few days...best score so far is 285 million. But there are a couple of things in this video I haven't seen on my machine.
In this video, I don't see the building collapsing down with the usual STDM single file spill like I get on my machine. In the video it looks like the building isn't lowering itself down and the balls exit the building from behind it or from lower inside it to start multiball?
Also, I've never seen my bridge completely separate and a ball fall between the two halves like in the video. Maybe it's happened and I just haven't looked up to see it during bridge multiball. If you look up for one second on this game, your ball is gone.
Appreciate any input. Thanks!
You can always grab a ball from another machine and place it on the lower glass just above the lockbar and see which way it rolls to level it. I have mine just a tab bit leaning left as Pinmonk suggests
Quoted from Allibaster:For those folks that have the bank mod, what tool are you using to trim Godzilla’s elbow?
If you painted him, what did you do about the back spikes? Some of the inside areas of the spikes look tough to reach.
[quoted image]
I used this Dremel cut off wheel but any cut off wheel will do. I didn't sand off the edges though- wish I had.
PXL_20211230_190616926 (resized).jpgThe real beauty of the Pinnovators system is you can add up to 4 (or more) pins to your sub with their splitter and you can adjust the volume of each sub independently and everything will plug right in with their mini stereo jacks. If it's just one pin per one machine nothing's wrong with using the alligator clips. Powered subs really rock!
2 weeks later
Quoted from DForero:[quoted image]
If it's the same thread as in the top of the mecho spinner thingy it's a 4-40. You'll have to estimate length. I got mine from eBay as shipping was cheaper than Marco. I went with cap screws as they are easier to tighten
Quoted from Tilt_Birmingham:Has anyone else had an issue with the opto's in building?
The VUK Opto is triggering as is the VUK Exit Opto also... But then the VUK Opto triggers again and because the there is no ball there as its always in the lock it doesn't trigger the VUK Exit Opto sending it into ball search...
It's happened then the game is in attract mode also
Opto's are clean and aligned
I have some replacement opto's coming, but would be good to see if anyone else has had this issue?
You might reseat connections on the node board.(assuming you get ball search without VUK firing before)
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Solution I've found for folks who have the ball trap problem on the back loop: keep jacking up the pitch and eventually it shouldn't happen anymore. Unfortunately, such an extreme pitch can mess with someone of your feeds and make certain shots harder than desirable to hit.
However, to me it's worth it to never again (I hope) have a game play out like my most recent one: Light rodan from loops midway through the first tier 2 battle which was going great only to have the ball get stuck on a slow return from loop six, followed by a tilt out when trying to nudge it out (in my experience, this is a ball trap that cannot be safely nudged free).
I made a post out of pull ties and haven't had any more problems. You make an L out of 2 tabs and feed it through the bottom. Then super gel glue to playfield bottom, holding in place with a toothpick until glue dries. Then cut off top leaving an inch or so.
PXL_20220121_143542339 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_143811078 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_144613667 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_144716880 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_144826825 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_144826825~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from blueberryjohnson:Innovative! Thanks for sharing. Would you link me the glue you mention? I assume it is a kind that can be safely removed without damaging the playfield art or clear. Would want to make sure I'm doing things the right way when attempting this.
I use this. Only put it on the underside where it won't matter.
PXL_20220122_005241388 (resized).jpgQuoted from El_Patron:Insider Connected QR scanner light went INOP. It occasionally has a dim flicker, but mostly dark now.. Anyone else have the problem or idea how to tackle?
[quoted image]
Lift playfield and out a few inches. Look at left underside corner and unplug then plug back in as in picture. If it comes on brightly a milisec you need a new QR unit though the QR reader will still work.
PXL_20220123_202909669 (resized).jpg
PXL_20220123_202909669~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Palmer:Good news. Broke a billion again this morning. Bad news. Broke another tdiddy tesla tower. Had to tape it up to finish my game. Not sure if gluing it will be a long term solution.[quoted image]
The towers ARE fragile. I broke mine just unpacking. They just look so darn nice though. Maybe Diddy would make a replacement with a universal base. I'm considering just buying a new set.
Quoted from Palmer:I have the same issue. I need to try and reseat the cable. Keep forgetting. The scanner works fine its just the light doesn't stay on. Honestly I might like that better. Wish there was an setting to do that while still having a fully functional scanner.
From what I can tell it's not the light but what powers the light and it's all on the board so there's no fixing except the QR replacement.
I tried mounting a light strip around it but that wasn't satisfactory as the white plastic is too opaque. Stern needs to redesign the light circuit .
Quoted from Palmer:I haven't had a chance to look but when I relayed my experience with Pablo from Stern, he said to reseat the ribbon cable. I thought it was only a R45 that connected to it. Did you see any ribbon cable?
There are 2 ribbons
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Mine’s been doing this prior to the code update as well. Very occasionally when it does the little bounce after ball hits the magnet it doesn’t reset to fully flat… the rear side sticks up a touch. So after the ball goes up the ramp it gets stuck up there.
Haven’t had time to mess with it yet but would love to hear any solves!
Can you take a pic? I might have a fix depending on where the ball is getting stuck.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Next time it happens for sure, cheers.
If it's between the bridge and second story let me know.
1 week later
This is really weird but I though I'd pass it along. My connect light has been out for about a month. I reset the cables, ect to no avail. I left my GZ on overnight (I blame it on beer) and woke up and still no connect light. I cut the machine off and returned 2 hours later. Connect light now works 100 percent. I have no idea what happened.
1 week later
Quoted from Bluthgg:Just wanted to double check - is there any fix for a flickering/dimming QR reader? I believe the other post I saw in the thread said they went through their distributor to get a new one.
I ordered a replacement. Mine came back on a while then crapped out again.
1 week later
Quoted from gumnut01:I know everyone with premiums and LEs is bummed by the ball being stuck on the mechagodzilla turntable to the right of the ramp.
I used a cabinet bumper to fix.
I have also lodged a support ticket with stern to correct. They need to release a small plastic or upside down post to go underneath the metal side which holds the plastic on top.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
My solution was to take two pull ties and put together making an "L". I glued the bottom to the underside then loped off the top. No more stuck balls.
PXL_20220121_143811078~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20220121_144716880~2 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
I know this has been beat to death but if you're having trouble hitting the left ramp, and it IS difficult, check your coil stops. I replaced mine and now I'm having much more success. The button stops in the old ones were loose though I only have a few hundred plays. I can only surmise this somehow led to a less consistent flip.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from tonyf1965:On the flipper coil stops. How will someone know if they are broken or bad. Can you tell while playing game? Godzilla is my first Stern. So I do not know what to watch for?
Unless they stick in the up position you might not know. I like to put my finger on the button of the stop then manually raise the flipper. The button should not move or wiggle. You'll see black or brass shavings on the stop as others have said.
1 month later
Quoted from El_Patron:QR light INOP. Anyone have the same issue and perhaps a fix for the QR light coming on during start up but then goes dark after start and stays dark?
[quoted image]
Mine did this. Stern will send you a new one and you return the old one in prepaid return box
Quoted from kttully0428:I am trying to remove my original shooter rod so I can install a new one, and this third screw absolutely will not budge. It will not turn in the slightest— I tried for a full hour. I fear it may be stripped now. What would you do if this happened to you, friends?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'd try vise grips on it. If there's no room use a Dremel cut off wheel and slice off 2 opposite sides of the screw then remove with a wrench
1 week later
Quoted from Bohdi:Link?
Sorry, I just checked. Amazon listing has ended
Quoted from Pugster:Just successfully ordered 2 from eBay.ca, $4.95 USD shipping to Canada.
What's the preferred method of rigging these up? Great find!!!!
PDK
Edit: Just to add the size looks perfect compared to the saucer
I used the black plane mount provided ( minus the flat base). Dremeled a small oblong hole, super glued.
PXL_20220525_194033876 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Quoted from KidK:Does anyone have any advice on replacing the black rubber on the lamp post and the ring just to the left of the maser cannon? Those two spots seemed pretty tricky to get into when I was disassembling the plastics over there and got nervous and held back.
For the post, do I simply loosen it from underneath the board?
As for the ring, what’s the best approach there?
Those and the bumper pads are the only black rubber I have left on the game and I definitely want to get them off and replaced with some titan.
I picked up some silicone bumper pads too, but haven’t really looked at how they install yet.
I apologize if this seems basic, but this is my first machine.
From the top, remove the top screw/lamp. Unscrew the hex spacer which is about 4 inches long while holding the nut nearest the playfield. Do not overtighten when reinstalling the hex spacer or it will snap off.
Quoted from barakandl:Has anyone messed with how far the rotating spinner ramp turns. I think mine should be turned a bit more clockwise when stopped with the spinner ramp shot available. Ball gets hung up back there occasionally.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I took 2 pull ties and made an "L". Cut off the ends and glued from the underside. One arm of the "L" extents up thru the playfield and keeps the ball from stopping there
Quoted from barakandl:Has anyone messed with how far the rotating spinner ramp turns. I think mine should be turned a bit more clockwise when stopped with the spinner ramp shot available. Ball gets hung up back there occasionally.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I did this using 2 pull ties shaped like an "L". Clipped the ends and glued to the underside. It works and you can't see it from player's position.
PXL_20220620_102810891~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from barakandl:Thanks guys. Those are two pretty good options. I think I can live with the spinner ramp positioning as long as the ball does not get stuck.
Does anyone know if the opto sensor switches 41 and 42 are what sets the limit of how far it turns? Or does the motor physically only rotate 90 degrees or so? I haven't even lifted the playfield yet. Ie... can I adjust the opto to make it turn more.
If you make it turn more it starts to block the lane. Unless I'm backwards on the way you want it to turn
Quoted from pinlawyer:I have the Tesla tower mod, and just broke one of the towers. Since I bought my pin already modded, I don’t know if I need to buy one tower or a whole new set of three. Anyone?
Thanks.
I would reglue as many times as possible. I bought a new slightly beefier set to keep as back up. The mod looks so nice I want to keep it there.
1 week later
Quoted from RTS:It's personal opinion, but the biggest improvement for me is Pinnovators kit with an external polk sub.
I've tried all the high falluting speaker kit upgrades and they never impress me as much as the simple addition of an external sub.
I have to ditto this. For the buck, a powered sub give you a lot and you can put 4 pins on one sub with Pinnovators splitter
1 month later
All three shouldn't be bad. Set meter to ohms (the omega symbol). Put black meter lead and red one together to check meter is working properly. Put on lead on gnd and the other end on any black wire nearest the back box. If this shows continuity then check the positive lead for continuity.
Then again, if you're getting 5.3v this may not be necessary. I think normal bulbs are 6.3v. I don't know about LED voltage .
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from robbie:Just set-up my Godzilla pro and have a question about leveling the game.
Oddly enough I had to turn out completely the bolts from the FRONT legs to level the game as advised by Stern.
Will someone please let me know if this is normal?
My floor is flat[quoted image][quoted image]
I had my GZ almost all the way up in the back, low in the front. If you have nothing else, use the Clinometer app (free) and set your game about 6.5 degrees slope, or 83.5 on Clinometer, as measured on the playfield with glass off
Of course the Clinometer must used on the side of your phone without the buttons sticking out.
Quoted from atg1469:So my left building post is not registering at all. I removed it and all the wiring and soldering is good. All other switches in the game are working and the switch is not touching or stuck closed. Any idea what else to check?!
Short out the 2 wires to the switch after putting pin in switch test. If that works switch is bad. If nothing happens
trace wires back and check for continuity using meter set to ohms.
Quoted from atg1469:Thanks. It was indeed a bad switch.
Most times these leaf switches just need adjustment which makes a leaf adjuster tool a good investment but I've used needle nosed pliers too.
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