Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I put a 1/4" wide x 1/4 tall x 1/8" thick triangle, it scatters real good. And no, the metal will not hurt the balls, they travel 1 inch. Although a nice 3d printed piece will be a better option I think
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Quoted from pinballaddicted:

you are in trouble if the ball is rolling around on wood. Ball is meant to roll around on top of the clear. If you look after your machines, the ball should be rolling around on wax. You can put the same wax on a playfield protector if you wish.

Quoted from Flipstream:

I wonder if it's similar to issues JP had on the outer orbit where fast or slightly airborne balls wouldn't block enough of the opto signal. The workarounds on JP were taping over the lower part of the opto emitter hole, or putting in washers as spacers to lower the emitter under the PF.

Quoted from PinMonk:

The opto should be on a bracket you can remove from the underside of the playfield. First, try re-aligning the opto pair by shifting the bracket a little. Something may be impeding the beam.
If that's NOT the case, sometimes optos have a hard time catching fast balls. Pull down the bracket from under the playfield and cover the bottom half of the opto with black electrical tape. Reinstall and try that.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Here's a post I made about it for Iron Maiden, with pictures:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/up-the-irons-the-iron-maiden-pinball-official-owners-club/page/153#post-5983569

Quoted from Palmer:

Pretty sure if you lose a battle with a monster you lose the city. But you can still fight the monster again in a different city. The code itself feels very wide (on the surface) as opposed to deep...at least from the amount of time I have played. So you can stack certain modes together. There are quite a few multi ball modes...more than I thought originally.

Quoted from CashMoney:

Check out this gameplay video.
Karl does a great job at explaining the ruleset and strategy approach to the game. So much fun to watch him blow up it up.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I'd try re-imaging the SD card. The images and utility are on Stern's site here:
https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/
The cheap SD cards Stern uses can cause all sorts of weird behavior if they partially fail. If you have a DIFFERENT class 10 compatible SD card to image, even better, since the card itself may be flaky.
If that doesn't take care of it, then diagnostic time.
The SD card is in the upper right of the CPU board in the backbox. You press to click-release it. You can see it just sticking out in the picture here...
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Quoted from Birdhops:

Anybody having trouble with right ramp not reading made shot each time…sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t…any tips on checking octo’s?
Thanks!

Quoted from crwjumper:

I just had a killer game on my LE. Godzilla controlled all 4 cities and did Saucer Multiball twice among other things. My hands are still shaking a bit.
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Quoted from John1210:

Im not sure why super trains can't be added to the pro with tweaked rules due to having to alternate ramps. Its simple coding at little to no cost to give it to the pro owners.

Quoted from Lounge:

Not to be an a-hole but a small clear furniture bumper on the plate where the balls first exit the lock will separate them rather nicely too.

Quoted from PinMonk:

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Quoted from chuckwurt:

Because it’s awesome and easy to setup. If you want it all in the cabinet, then Pinwoofer is where it’s at.
If you’re adding an amp to the game, you’re gonna want to replace the speakers too. The stock ones are garbage.

Quoted from Damonator:

Because internal small open air subs don’t sound very good compared to a larger sealed sub. It also causes more vibration and glass rattle when playing.
I would recommend trying one of these:
https://www.svsound.com/products/3000-micro-subwoofer
It’s basically an 11” cube so it’s not a huge eyesore. Grab the pinnovator plug-and-play spike external sub adaptor and run the small cable out the topper hole to the pinnovator mixer. The mixer allows you to plug 4 pinballs into one sub and adjust output independently for each.

Quoted from gumnut01:

You can adjust the levels between the cabinet and back box speakers in the stern volume menu. You can even set the crossover db so you can make the cabinet more or less boomey. I had bought all these resistors and in line volume controls and then found all the options in the volume menu. The thing that threw me off is a menu called volume made me think it only had volume in it. It is also where you set the speaker impedance.

Quoted from aeonblack:

I have my game maxed out on the leg levelers and it's sitting at 8 degrees. That's how I know our league/tournament games are going to be set up, so that's what I play on (hell, they might even end up with 2x4's under the back legs). I see some massive scores and I wonder if ya'll are that much better than me or if you're just at a much lower slant, as I've yet to see a single other person say this is how they are set up to play.

Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Everyone loves this game. It’s great, but…Here’s a few things that I don’t like just for conversation sake.
-The extra balls. They are just automatically rewarded? I want to light it and collect it as I find it very satisfying to do so.
- The sound / EQ. The callouts sound like they were recorded in a tin can. I’m sure this is to make it sound like it’s from the early 70’s but…it doesn’t sound great. I put a headphone jack in and I don’t even use it because the sound is so piercing (and yes…I’m very high quality headphones)
-The MechaGZ spinner insert. It’s a small detail but I’d love to see that light yellow like the other inserts (especially in the Ebirah mode)
- Insert color choice for MB and modes. They are too similar and it makes me nuts when I’m in a mode and multi. It’s like yellow and light yellow. I’d love for the MB jackpot insert color to something else so the mode and jackpot lights flash in a more obvious way.
- I find the game to be absolutely rife with cheap drains. STDM from the building. Unsaveable Left drain from an incomplete right ramp shot. Lightning fast Right outlane drains from the pop. Terrible drains from the Tailwhip shot at the outlane post and sling post. Ball comes down, bounces off the outlane post, into the sling post and directly into the outlane. I find myself physically wrestling with this machine more than any of the 50 or so games I’ve owned. Feel like I’m playing defense the entire time and I’m quite a good player (not to toot but…) I’ve set this game up so many ways and nothing is really helping. Turned down power to slings and pop a bit…I REALLY don’t want to move to outlane posts in but…maybe I will.
-Bridge and Tank…when they are lit the game won’t allow you to start a battle first before starting. I want to strategize and stack. Not just whack a multiball for points. So when I see ‘Tank’ is lit at the scoop and I can’t start a battle first I’m like “great, what a waste of MB”. Same with Bridge, but that’s on me as most of the time I don’t notice the red bridge light on the sign. Wish it were more obvious when you were close to bridge MB or at least allow you to start a battle in mode (or after hitting one super jackpot or something.

Quoted from ChipScott:

So I've had to do it on every single modern stern in the last few years, so it's no surprise...
But, I've been having such a good time playing the Godzilla that even though Ive noticed some weakness of the flipper strength despite bringing the power of the coil up a couple notches , I haven't done much else knowing that the next move is to change out the coil stops.
I happened to have some extra stern coil stops from pinball life and went ahead and installed them (along with some fresh coil sleeves) this morning and played a game.
Man, it's like having brand new flippers! Woohoo!! Strong as hell, and I can probably even come down on the coil settings back to factory, haha...but everything flowed so good, I think I'll just leave it as it is for now.
But just wanted to post another vote for changing out your coil stops!

Quoted from ChipScott:

Yeah, and others might chime in as well, but starting about 3 or so years ago, for whatever reason, the Stern stock coil stops are real crap.
There are some folks who luck into some good ones I suppose, but an overwhelming amount of people have noticed that these coil stops that stern uses are not great, which is usually noted by a feeling of weaker flippers. That's why the first recommendation you'll see these days across the board for any new modern stern is to change out your coil stops.
In my case, I was starting to notice some weakness at the flippers at about 250 games. After changing out the coil stops (and coil sleeves while I was at it) it gave a brand new breath of fresh power! This is a typical story though these days.

Quoted from PinMonk:

When the stop gets loose or busts out of the backing, there's no solid end for the flipper plunger to hit when the coil activates and pulls it, so it makes the stroke end softer than if it hit a hard stop and robs power from the flipper the pawl/plunger is driving. A flipper to a shaft to a pawl to a plunger pulled with force into a hard coil stop sends that energy up to the ball. But if the stop is mushy (loose/broken) some of that energy dissipates into the broken stop and isn't transferred back to the ball. So you get weaker flips.
It would be interesting to measure how much force is drained from a flipper with a broken coil stop. I don't think anyone has done that. We all know it happens, but no one has measured how MUCH is lost, to my knowledge.
A broken stop can also make the flipper stick slightly or completely.

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

One unrelated thing that I thought would require a physical adjustment which per Keith elsewhere will be addressed through code is having the behind the flipper skill shot consistently trigger when the ball passes through.

Quoted from mahony:

I am an Insider subscriber, but I already received my swag kit a month or so ago. Maybe I won the contest for the Limited Edition swag that Gary pitches on those flyers that are stuck to the glass when you buy a NIB? I doubt it, but it's a fun thought.

Quoted from mcvetyty:

Just cradle and ignore it until its over..

Quoted from ChipScott:

Thx for your reply.
I agree. It's kind of fun on all the time (especially since it's different lighting sequences continues at all times), and especially since it's a "mock" neon sign... I mean, at night when the lights of businesses go out, you'll still see neon signs flickering about in the city, so there is a somewhat realistic benefit to having it on all the time.
Curious for additional votes/impressions out there on the subject.

Quoted from Jedi_Gill:

Pinstadium lights are amazing.. It's hard to play without them now as they really do add alot to the game. Especially on Godzilla if you get the NEO fusion Atom. I think they get a bad wrap only because people think of LED's as being cheap and they see the high price point. However these are are high quality LED's and not your usual cheapo LED's. They work much harder and turn off an on constantly without fail. They also have to be hand built as no company makes them so that always ups the cost of simple time and material.

Quoted from Jedi_Gill:

Do you have Pinstadium lights on your Godzilla? I am asking that because they don't just shine light on the playfield 24/7 removing the PINS's use of darkness.
The main lights are tied to the GI "General Illumination" circuit so they turn off exactly when the PIN is programmed to turn off. Not only that but when the red flashers go on and you have let's say a destruction jackpot, other lights on the Pinstadium also are tied to these flashers and enhance this experience and you really get the message that this shot is important.
It makes seeing the ball easier, which in turn makes playing the game more enjoyable. A perfect example is DeadPool, that game is noted for being too dark, on Pinstadium lights it's entirely enjoyable. Look I'm not a Pinstadium fanboy but I know when a product makes a vast improvement on a PIN.
You can also fully program them to some extent. You can make it less bright, change the GI colors, Flasher colors, choose and pick what moments of the PIN you want accentuated. It's a solid product, and unless you've played on a PIN with them especially their high end kit you won't know what I mean.

Quoted from Tomass:

It's comments like this that made me steer clear of them, but now that I have tried them I don't see how it takes away atmosphere. It still dims when it is supposed to dim and it still does the strobe effect as well. Only now I can see better when the GI is on. Maybe my eyes are not what they used to be and it really helps pick up the ball. Just my option is all, but if anyone has yet to experience them I would say they should go somewhere they can see them for themselves.

Quoted from purbeast:

Mine SDTM all 3 balls pretty much every single time. It doesn't bother me at all either. It's very rare when all 3 don't right down the middle.
Also, I have had a ball get stuck in the building before. The building locked up as it was changing levels due to the ball being stuck. I think it actually got stuck when the lock was lit and the building was going down though. I don't even remember how it fixed itself. I'm pretty sure it went into ball search mode and the building raised up and the ball came rolling down.
I rememeber though I was a bit nervous and didn't want the building to keep trying to move down as the ball was stuck in there, but I'm pretty sure it stops trying to move when it gets stuck like that.

Quoted from Returner:

The ramp should not go over the ballguide at all. It should be in front of the ball guide, at the same height as the ballguide. No wonder some people have problems when it is not assembled correctly.
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Quoted from medeski7:

I imagine your mod diverts the balls just a little. That might be better. I'm pretty sure my machine is level and I drain sdtm. I might change the roof but it doesn't matter to me that much. The flip side is the building takes less hard hits.

Quoted from madamyates:

After 30,000 plays we had the bottom left rail break from inside the building. Had a local guy weld it back on. Looks indestructible now.
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