Wasilla, AK
Can't wait to join this club. I have a premium ordered but supposed to be early next year when I get it. Will be my first NIB.
(Topic ID: 300354)
Linked Games
Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021-
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
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Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021
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Quoted from Sleal16:Thought all LE's normally get made first before brining premiums on the line, or do they split some production (since they might be running short on parts)?
I meant premium. Just edited it.
Posted in the mod thread but figured I would post here too.
Completely stumbled upon this. Says he brought it from Japan and his name makes me believe that. I might be able to pick it up and send it to someone if they wanted it. I work in Anchorage so wouldn't be any trouble.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/387684866293673/?ref=facebook_story_share
Screenshot_20211016-071648_Chrome (resized).jpg 8 months later
Quoted from Monte:I know someone who ordered back in March. Almost 4 months!
We all know about the struggle of parts and what a great person he is, how eventually you will get your product and if you don’t want to wait, cancel your order…
It’s still bullshit for those people who ordered and are being more than patient.
I ordered my GZ premium sept 22nd and just got notice that it is being built this month.
I have intentionally stayed off this thread until my game was ready to ship. I'm sure it has been discussed already, but how far along is the code now that my game is being built? Living in Alaska, I have not had a chance to play this yet. I have also avoided watching gameplay.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:At .97 now, and by most standards would be considered done. But each update has been amazing, cant wait for next one.
Thank you! Can't wait to play it. Will be a welcome addition to get me through our long winter.
Quoted from wywin:I got a replacement button assembly, and the circuit board is clearly a different manufacturer from the one that came with my game - the markings on the board itself are similar, but distinct (font choice, size, etc). The new assembly works 100%, so that's the good news.
Can you post a poc of the good one?
1 week later
Quoted from Strummy:I found this in my cabinet next to the subwoofer. Any ideas?
[quoted image]
Looks like a pop bumper part. Or maybe a drop target lift.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Sorokyl:I can see this one is already damaged a bit..if you don't wanna put the washer fix in right now then at least, before you play any more, pull the glass and stick some piece of rubber there where it's taking damage. That will keep it from getting more messed up
I actually picked up a replacement stainless piece to replace that last night from a friend. It says I need to remove the back half of the bridge, but doesn't say how to do that. Is it a simple part to remove?
1 week later
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:That is not correct, you can also Splice and cut the wires as I did. It was much easier and so much faster to do. I'll post a guide some day to help others.
[quoted image][quoted image]
If you are splicing wires, you should be soldering them in which case it makes more sense to just desolder them at the source and resolder them correctly.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:That is not correct, you can also Splice and cut the wires as I did. It was much easier and so much faster to do. I'll post a guide some day to help others.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Also this is called a hack...please don't post a guide on how to perform a hack.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:I'm not just twisting wires, maybe I used the wrong terminology but I cut the wires, peeled them back and connected them, and then applied solder to make a solid connection. I then had a rubber heat wrap tubbing and sealed the connection back together again. In my pictures, I show what it looks like before I apply the heat. It's honestly a solid connection and not a hack.
But if you are already breaking out the solder pen, why not solder directly to the terminal lugs and eliminate the Splice? Makes no sense, sorry.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:Maybe every situation is different, but on my machine I also soldered to the Saucer board the AIQ shooter Rod. So this section already has so many wires coming out of it. It just didn't make sense to try to unsolder all of them just to attach these 4. It really was easier, still a solid connection and I simply did it right.
Look if you don't like what I did on my machine that's your opinion, and our entitled to that; but for me and maybe someone else like me, I'm certain they'll find it easier to cut and solder back not at the board. As long as they solder it back together instead of just twisting, and use a shrink heat wrap they'll be fine. I think the cost to entry for this clear bumper mod is a bit high for most people and I'm simply offering them another alternative solution that works and is safe if done right.
It's your game. Hack it up all you want.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:I will, thanks for the support. It works perfectly by the way
Yeah but you introduced extra points of failure for no reason other than laziness. My only issue is trying to convince others to do a hack when they could learn how to do it the proper way.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:I'm not trying to convince anyone to do anything, just offering an alternative solution. Your opinion that it's a hack is just that, an opinion. If done properly, splicing and soldering wires and properly covering them up is perfectly acceptable in your everyday electronic repair.
As mentioned everyone's PIN situation might be different and given the information I laid out, that my AIQ shooter rod was already soldered on here. In my situation it didn't make sense and again it's your opinion that it was just laziness on my part. It was about what worked best for me and given my skillset I saw absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Have a nice evening.
Ask anyone who has worked on pins for a significant time if splicing wires when a solder lug is inches away is a good idea and you will see it is not an opinion, its a hack. Others stated the same thing after me. And you stated you were going to post a guide, which is exactly trying to convince others. Like I say do what you want to your game though.
Quoted from Tranquilize:I think both are fine. The splice with solder and heat tubing is A-OK by me. I've seen it many times before. If you know pins, you'll know what's going on if you end up with a similar machine. If done correctly, it's not really a point of failure.
I have fixed soldered splices that have been points of failure. Mostly when it flexes wires can break right below at the solder point. May not happen for years, but it can happen. I would not splice unless absolutely necessary, and especially not when a lug is inches away.
Answer this question honestly: if someone needs to check all their coils out of circuit and decides to cut the wires 3" back from the solder lug and splice the wires back in and you look under the hood to consider buying said pin, would you say it's hacked up?
Quoted from chuckwurt:I wouldn’t if the wires were properly soldered and covered with heat shrink. Not a hack at all. Interesting decision in this case, but totally fine. Splicing is usually used for when wires need to be extended.
Interesting. Anyone I know would ask why the wires are all hacked and would reconsider a full price offer. Most issues I fix when restoring games stem from someone's prior work and hacked wires and connectors. I have not had to fix an untouched wire unless it has been pinched.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Splicing is usually used for when wires need to be extended.
Also this is my point as well, there is really no need in this case. Anyway, like I say, do whatever you want to your own game but I would discourage splicing wires when there is no need to do so and it could affect a future sale.
Enough on this though, let's get back to GZ and how great this pin is.
Question, am I the only one who has a really hard time hitting the Maser target directly from the flipper? Wondering if I need to adjust my flippers as it is almost impossible.
Quoted from jackd104:Offer less because two wires are spliced. Try it and let me know what happens.
If it was multiple hacked wires I would simply pass and leave it for someone else to deal with. Again, do what you want with your game. Burn it down if that makes you happy, but if you are splicing 3" away from a solder point I question your judgment and will likely find many other questionable "repairs". Speaking from experience.
Quoted from jackd104:I noticed my right flipper came from the factory adjusted a little low. Not pointing directly at the dot. I’m not sure I want to “fix” it since the maser cannon shot is damn tough as it is. I was wondering if perhaps they did this as a late design decision. But then again, It’s probably a fantasy to think that the people on the factory floor are so fastidious. What say you, to adjust or not to adjust?
[quoted image]
Mine looks like yours. Left is centered on the dot but right is slightly low. Can't really tell by looking from a playing position until you look close.
Quoted from Sugar:Let’s see the bridge that moves and the building that falls
Yeah, that's the only reason I got a prem. All the other stuff is just cosmetics.
Quoted from MattWesterville:Sugar no they are both stationary, but my point is that I could probably get them both moving for less the cost of another machine. I don't have invisiglass either. It's a great game though and I enjoy it much. Anything I feel needs upgraded is, like there's extra piece of transparent plastic under top of slingshot, bumpers, etc. Looks nicer now.
EHOH40th is like $25k... that's a lot of money! There you got folks forking out $18k more for a card signed by "elvira" and custom paint and a few other things. Most cars premium lineups are less a premium in cash or proportion. At least it's not that bad; but still consider how many upgrades you can buy on saving with going with pro.
MattWesterville
You won't get them moving due to code though. Pretty sure Stern will not allow premium code to be loaded onto a pro.
For me the building and the mechagodzilla mechs were the whole reason I went premium. I don't care for upgrades that are merely cosmetic as gameplay is the determining factor for what I buy.
Quoted from MattWesterville:OK, suit yourself I guess we're both happy with what we got. So the reason you got premium is moving building/bridge and mechagodzilla (it moves?). I'm not sure about code, if it's compiled or not, etc. If not it's easy to change but it probably is compiled. So premium code can't go on my machine.
The real code change that I officially requested from Stern is persistent, larger score, ball, credit display. You got 5000 points for manilla wallop and it takes the whole screen. My dad has poorer vision so bigger display would be nice.
All I'm saying is that you can't turn a pro into a premium. Lots of people like the flow of pros better. You do you.
Quoted from TeaHaus:Start with Ebirah and shoot that centre spinner a lot.........I managed 1.5 billion after a couple of weeks and also stopped always going Gigan.
So do you mean to shoot the spinner more than what is needed during Ebirah? Or just in general during regular gameplay? Thanks for the pointers
Quoted from solzerid:Two kaiju battles and you'll break it without much trouble. Try to get your carnage multiplier up before switching cities by lighting the inserts before moving. I hit 1 bil about a week in by a fluke but I managed to get a 5x carnage multiplier without knowing how.
Gotcha, thanks for the tips.
I usually defeat Ebirah and start a couple multiballs, RAMPAGE and Monster Zero if I have a good game. I will focus on getting 2 battles won. I have yet to qualify Terror of Mechagodzilla, so I want to focus on that at some point just to complete it.
Quoted from mbrave77:I havent checked thread in a while and figured Id ask
This question again since theres many new owners.
I have a first run premium. On my game balls often go airborne on their way down the playfield and richochet off the ball lane rails that go across the playfield. Its not just a glance as the ball will be coming down the playfield and violently hit one of those lane guides.
Is this common and is there something I can do to fix?
Its mostly from the stand up targets on the building but also happens from the building middle as well when closed. The standups arent in a bad position that would send balls airbrone.
I get almost no airballs at all.
Quoted from clarkmu22:What they need to do is have a King Kong that is interactive with Godzilla via Insider Connect. THAT would be revolutionary and could open up many possibilities of dueling players on different machines. Insider Connect has so much potential, and this would be the tip of the iceberg.
Wow, this would force me to sell off more of my classics and buy another NIB pin. Wasn't necessarily planning on a new one for the foreseeable future.
Quoted from prentice:When the premium building is ready to lock and is partly down, is the inner loop (wallop?) blocked? I always get a reject from that. But it feels like an inelegant situation.
Yeah it's blocked.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:I'm still having this problem where the mechagodzilla spinner randomly rotates left to right for a little bit. It'll stop for a while then rinse repeat all throughout the game. I know a few others have reported this as well, has anyone figured out a fix??
I really think it's code related since I didn't have this problem before the latest code update, but I do know others reported having it the whole time.
Seems like the machine does not know its position at times so it tries to bring it back to where it belongs. Could be the connector or the position switch of the mech (opto maybe?).
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Interesting thought, I'll look in the manual to see what parts are involved
There should be a switch to set each position. It would then rotate until the switch triggers. If the connection is lost it thinks it moved out of position and tries to move it back. Most of my tech experience is in older games, but that is how they work. Not sure if it is a microswitch or opto on GZ though.
Quoted from purbeast:So looking for a little bit of help here.
I just installed the clear pop bumper. I shaved down the tip of it so that it was virtually the same exact size as the white one that I replaced. I was putting them basically tip to tip so they touched the underside of eachother and were nearly identical.
However after putting everything back together, the saucer coil is not firing when the clear bumper is hit. I have tried with my fingers and stuff and it's simply not firing at all.
If I do the coil test however, it fires no problem.
Anyone know what I have messed up? Could it be that the tip of the clear one is still just a bit too long and the leaf switch is closed so it's just not firing when it's being depressed? If that is the case I wasn't sure if the coil test would fire or not.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Adjust the switch to have less gap. If you push the switch with your finger from the underside of the pf it should fire. Lift the playfield and see how much gap is in the switch.
Quoted from Sorokyl:Is this really necessary? I just pulled on my leaf a little and good to go
I would suggest anyone who owns a machine should have one (or a set) if these. Switches need fine tuning over time and this tool can reach in where fingers cannot and make the needed adjustments.
Quoted from purbeast:So yeah the problem was definitely that the switch was making contact the whole time but now I'm even more confused.
I took it apart again and then I put the normal white one back and tightened the screws. However after I did that, even with the one that came, the switch was being depressed when I had everything screwed tightly down.
The only way to get it to work properly was basically to loosen the screws holding it to the base, making the spring push up the ring that the ball hits a bit more so that the switch isn't depressed. However now the whole pop bumper is "loose" in the sense that it's not tight and every time you hit it, the whole thing moves around a little since it's not screwed all the way down.
I don't know how when I installed the normal white one back, it was now doing this. I am guessing maybe I did something wrong when putting it back together? I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have the part that goes right on the playfield, turned 90 degrees the wrong way, because 2 of the holes are raised a bit and 2 aren't. Maybe that little extra space is causing this issue.
Either way I'm done messing with it tonight because I'm tired of soldering this crap lol.
It probably got bent on the install. Rather than shaving the post, next time just adjust the switch.
Quoted from splickety_lit:I've never seen that shot fail to register either. But I guess everyone's machine is different.
It's when it is not a clean shot through the gate, but skirts underneath the switch. I think I will leave mine with the switch since it is a "skill shot" and needs to be spot on to count, which I like.
Quoted from Sleal16:They both use the same code
Thanks. I know they are the same game but thought perhaps they added callouts or something to the LE when I saw it labeled as LE.
Quoted from conester:Put a deposit down on a premium for next years release. I'm a little slow to the party, but this will be my second NIB ever, or maybe first depending when I get my Alien LV! haha! Figuring fall 2023 for the GZ. We shall see!
My first NIB too. What a great game though. I don't think you will regret it.
Quoted from scootss:Damn...haven't played many games on 1.0 yet but I don't think I heard a "shoot the wamps!" Is it gone?
Flipside...damn I love the "we're going back in time to ball 1"
I have never heard this callout. I started on .98
Quoted from Rob_E:Thanks...yes all 6 balls installed...and the building test only makes it go up and down.. which works fine...but the guard on top doesn't lift up to release the balls?
I don't see a test for that...is there one??
Thanks!
I think I saw an earlier post where the building would not go down far enough to make it lift. Not sure what the fix was, but it is in this thread somewhere.
Quoted from medeski7:Considering joining the club and really trying to avoid the price increase on a premium and get in at MSRP. Anyone got any hot tips on how I can do that?
Not sure if they are running more this year. Good luck though.
Quoted from fooflighter:Bug Report Version 1.0 or did I just notice this?
After the Ver 1.0 update, my 48V coin door interlock switch no longer works.
I've checked the connections and swapped switches with my other games, still nothing.
Performing a diagnostic switch test does not show the coin door interlock switch as working.
Anyone else have this behavior?
I'm sure it was working prior to the update, but it may just be coincidental
Thanks
*edit*
I did find this post and it looks like it may be my PDB (Power Distribution Board)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coin-door-not-registering-open-jp-pro#post-6876953
Thanks blujae014
I'll try to get Stern to issue a replacement through support/distro/warranty
Pretty sure mine is doing this as well. Noticed it a few weeks ago before this update. I need to check this further.
Quoted from scootss:It's "ramps" but said with a heavy/thick/fake NY accent.
I usually hear it right near the start when I haven't hit either ramp yet (kaiju battle not lit)
Oh. Everyone keeps saying wamps and I was confused.
Quoted from Nokoro:Next time it happens, try gently shaking the machine forward and back. That works for me.
Yeah, the ball hits the back and rests in the gap between the building and the vuk. Adjust the gap or put something there to bridge the gap (business card works)
Quoted from flynnibus:Interesting- but i am not sure this is it. The ball is sitting in the vuk because it makes the jump the first time the vuk fires. And ghis game has been fine for like 9months prior.
Unfortunately it is very difficult to see what is happening as it clears quickly and its all under the pf with no way to see anything top side.
And that subway is attached backside. Yuk… is the subway easily removed/opened?
That is the behavior that was described on TPS.
Quoted from C_Presley:So without reading 300 or so pages, has anyone encountered extremely tight glass? Pretty sure my cab was dropped at some point, took three people just to get the glass off. When I spoke to stern they acted like this is a known issue though and have ordered “extra polished glass” (lol) no visible external damage but the corner joint sure looks questionable and the leg plate isn’t even touching the side wall.[quoted image]
I have seen several people posting about this same issue. Not sure what they did to fix it though.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Just heard the call out of " this is the sound of one hand clapping" when I got a replay never heard that one before. Is that new for version one?
Waited till I heard it again before commenting to make sure I was right, but he says "this is the sound of 1 person clapping" followed by 1 single clap. Found it hilarious.
Quoted from fooflighter:Bug Report Version 1.0 or did I just notice this?
After the Ver 1.0 update, my 48V coin door interlock switch no longer works.
I've checked the connections and swapped switches with my other games, still nothing.
Performing a diagnostic switch test does not show the coin door interlock switch as working.
Anyone else have this behavior?
I'm sure it was working prior to the update, but it may just be coincidental
Thanks
*edit*
I did find this post and it looks like it may be my PDB (Power Distribution Board)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coin-door-not-registering-open-jp-pro#post-6876953
Thanks blujae014
I'll try to get Stern to issue a replacement through support/distro/warranty
They are sending me a new power distribution board after working with my distro to diagnose the issue. Did you get yours figured out?
Quoted from solzerid:Two quick questions. Does anyone else have issues with a lot of scoop shots getting rejected? I would say about 1/4 of the time I hit it directly, the ball comes back out. It trips the switch, and the kicker fires a second later, but it doesn't register the shot because the ball bounced out.
Also, how many rips does it usually take you guys to complete the center spinner for Ebirah. It seems excessive on my machine. Sometimes I need to hit that shot cleanly around a dozen times to collect enough spins. On that topic, I've had the left spinner complete without hitting it. Is there another shot that takes off the tally?
Consistently takes 2 average hits to the center spinner or 1 really good one with ball momentum prior to flipping
Quoted from WizzardRob:No matter what the cost is, they are taking alot of the atmosphere away. Godzilla especially utilizes dimming very well, i dont get the need for all this super brightness unless for streaming where it actually makes sense
It's comments like this that made me steer clear of them, but now that I have tried them I don't see how it takes away atmosphere. It still dims when it is supposed to dim and it still does the strobe effect as well. Only now I can see better when the GI is on. Maybe my eyes are not what they used to be and it really helps pick up the ball. Just my option is all, but if anyone has yet to experience them I would say they should go somewhere they can see them for themselves.
Yeah, I'm not trying to change anyone's mind on them either. If people don't like them, I get it. If you have never tried them, I would suggest seeing them in person though. It's hard to get a pic to look close to what in person looks like.
Quoted from PinMonk:He also didn't respond to my questions a couple years ago about what frequency of light his UV kit puts out since certain ranges on the blue end of the spectrum have been shown to damage eyesight permanently with consistent exposure.
He'll NEVER admit it, but anyone with working eyesight and a brain knows his "before" image is manipulated (HOW doesn't matter, point is, it's not representative of reality) in his marketing before/after pictures. That's the scummy part. If he just posted honest before/after pics I would have zero problems with the product (aside from the UV one I think is dangerous for eyes). Not for me, but lots of people like them, so great. Just be HONEST about how you sell it.
Will UV reflect off the playfield /plastics and still be harmful to eyes?
1 week later
Quoted from VisitorQ:So I notice with my Godzilla Premium yesterday that when I open the coin door it is NOT turning off the high voltage. I believe this started to occur after I updated the game to the latest code but I am not 100% sure. I did reseat the the connection on the switch and I even swapped the switch with one form another game but nothing changed?? I traced the connection back to the power supply in the backbox and reseated the connection there as well but none of this fix it.
Anyone else having this problem? Looking for some ideas to future trouble shoot the issue. The game function perfectly otherwise...
Thanks.
Me and 1 other have had this recently. I have a new power distribution board on the way. He reported the same thing.
Quoted from smokinhos:I just updated my GZ premium to 1.0 and used the right port.. no issues. You can see my blue thumb drive sticking out.
[quoted image]
I think they were saying the wifi dongle needs to be on the left. Could be wrong though.
Quoted from arrbee:So, has anyone noticed sound distortion from the speakers?
I've a pro model so not sure if it's particular to that or not....
It seems a bit intermittent but happens with certain frequencies would be my guess as when it does happen it's in the same places. Like totalling up the bonuses or starting GZ multiball. It's not the sound of crackling flames (which is also during the bonus screen).
I've made sure to set the cabinet speaker to 4ohm (factory set incorrectly at 8ohm).
I know the speakers are probably rubbish, but it almost sounds like an amplification issue rather than speaker flapping.
Any experience something similar? did you resolve it?
Is it confirmed that the speakers should be set to 4ohm? Mine had crackling when I set it to 4. None happens at 8 ohms though.
Quoted from Marangsanz:Anyone know how to reduce air balls off mechagodzilla ramp? They don’t happen often, but when they do, it gets serious height. Sometimes I’m lucky and it lands on the rail.
Just go with it man.
Quoted from JakeFAttie:I know the premium is more popular, but reading this thread it just seems those cool toys (the bridge and the building) cause more problems then they are worth. Personally I prefer the uncluttered playfield of the pro, and the peace-of-mind of less moving parts. And the cost of course. Counterarguments? Do those toys really change the gameplay that much?
Not long ago everyone complained "why can't we have the cool mechs like the 90s?" and "the playfield is so bare". In my opinion the mechs absolutely make this game what it is and I have had no issues at all with mine.
1 week later
Quoted from Tomass:Is the magnet supposed to be free floating so to speak? I can spin it with pretty much no resistance.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Can someone check to see if theirs moves freely when they have their playfield up possibly? Thanks!
Quoted from BFaster:Mine spins freely when power is off and pf up. Seems to work perfectly in game.
Thanks!
Quoted from viper001:I recently bought 4 later run Spike 2 titles and none of my games had those centering brackets, but all NEEDED them. I've seen a lot of crazy posts for folks trying to deal with the issue (cramming things in front of the shooter tip, shooter lane guides, etc) but I can guarantee all the games could be fixed with those brackets being put back in. There is too much left to right shift on the playfield, if you slide it all the way one way or the other the shooter isn't even able to launch the ball into play. Do yourself a favor and buy them from Pinballlife and put them back in, I moved the shooter assembly about 6 times in my DP until I realized what the real problem was.
I will buy them but I think Pinballlife is the one that costs too much to ship anything to AK. I will see if Marco has them.
1 week later
Quoted from wywin:I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding something, there's a bug in the software, or something about my hardware, but the "coin door ball save" doesn't seem to work on 1.01 code? I have it enabled in the settings, and can open the coin door when the ball is in play. It drains, I wait a few seconds, and close the coin door. It does the bonus count up, instead of kicking out a new ball? Am I doing something wrong? Could someone else check their game's behavior and see if it's the same?
Mine does not do that. If I get a ball stuck and pull the glass and let it drain, it gets put back into play when I close the coin door. It will eject into the shooter lane and auto plunge.
Quoted from jkashani:Where are those settings? Under coils?
I'll get the exact setting when I am in front of my game. I think it's under game adjustments though. Easier to go backwards once in the settings as it's towards the end of the list.
Quoted from jkashani:Where are those settings? Under coils?
Yeah, it's adjustments > feature adjustments
Adjustment 169
Quoted from TroyS:I would think if you open the coin door in ply you should loose the current ball. If not people could open it to just have a forever game. Just thinking
If someone wants to be dishonest they can just play with the glass off.
Quoted from BrokenChair:Is it industry normal for people to be charging so much over msrp for a premium or pro Godzilla ;
I don’t mind waiting for one all I’ve seen are pros going for 7.2-7.5k and 10k for a premium….
It's been in high demand. Your best bet is to get in line with a distro and keep looking around for one to be in stock with another distributor. As of next year the new MSRP will be 9700 from what I understand.
1 week later
Wondering if someone would do me a favor. I want to order the anti sway brackets for my standups on GZ, but pinballlife's shipping is just not a feasible option for Alaska. Asking if someone would purchase (I will send you the amount prior) and send via USPS to me? I will cover all costs. This is the Part I am trying to order: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
Here is the shipping quote for 4 brackets, which is why I am asking. Thanks to anyone who would consider helping.
Screenshot_20221124_065853_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from Returner:It is already installed on your machine from factory,
Mine do not hold center and someone suggested this would fix that.
Quoted from Nokoro:I don’t think so. My high scores are set to initials but when I log in with Insider Connected, it uses my user name instead. I don’t see any other settings unless I’m missing something.
You have to set high score to 10 characters in the settings.
Quoted from izzy:Should the magnet on the underside be loose? I guess not. How do you tighten it? The large nut and threaded screw? I thought they raised and lowered the metal core.
thx
Mine is loose and someone on here said that is correct. I can freely spin mine in its bracket. The nut is tight but the magnet is free to spin.
3 weeks later
Quoted from briyau15:I’ve gotten the callouts and extra ball animations before but it doesn’t seem to trigger automatically when I hit the replay amount.
I just confirmed my settings are on Fixed with unlimited extra balls. I just set the first replay to $26m and no extra balls were awarded after hitting that after a couple different games. Hopefully I’m missing something or it’s an overall code issue rather than something specific with my machine
Mine did this with the last update. I turned it off in the settings and then back on and it fixed it
1 month later
Quoted from BrokenChair:Thank you for the quick reply don’t have one of those tools just bought my first tools ever today! ; just have basic stuff …
I’m totally confused the new post I’m trying to tighten is right on top of the plastic; if I remove the new post stand and plastic how would tightening that bottom post make the new upper hex shaft post tighten(once it’s removed and then put back on)?
Am I making this more difficult then it is seeming I hope not
That wrench holds the post while you tighten the nut above the plastic. Otherwise the whole thing can turn and not affect the nut above.
Quoted from acedanger:Is it normal as you twist shooter knob with fingers the shooter rod loses it's center point is there a way to correct?
Sounds like a bent shooter rod or something is loose. Definitely not normal.
Quoted from Duster72:Is there a way to make the wallop shot not go SDTM on a Premium?
It should activate the ball save for a short time when you hit it.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:I'm looking to swap out the Blue Oyster For Godzilla for the version used in KotM, but I haven't found the time to sit and learn pinball browser... yet.
You know you can select from multiple songs when the mode starts right? Just use the action button.
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