Huntsville, AL
Quoted from TommyMc:I ordered mine on Sept 22 and last I was told was a slim chance for the July run but still a chance. Stern really needs to rethink there allotment strategy.
Until then maybe swap distributors...
(Topic ID: 300354)
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Quoted from Betelgeuse:Thanks for confirming. That's pretty much what I had heard and what has kept me from buying this set. I already have some of the Japanese language versions of these films, but would double-dip if I could get the versions I remember seeing as a kid.
I am watching all the movies starting with the first. Most of them are on HBO, so may be worth it to sub for a couple of months to watch a bunch once for context in the pinball game.
Some of them have english dubs, some dont. It's bouncing back and forth. I'm about 9 movies in. I believe the dubs just aren't available for some of them, anywhere.
I don't even know what code they could tie to the oxygen destroyer insert.. thematically it's the opposite of a ball save. I thought it was mostly artwork that thematically represented Godzilla (the player) dieing (draining)
Quoted from Thefuge:2.The Godzilla figure. Holy shit it's bad. In comparison with the mechagodzilla it just looks off in the machine. What is the best replacement?
Mine is coming Wednesday, and i feel like I've become an expert in Godzilla action figures in the last 72 hours....
There are plenty of various cheap godzillas out there, but if your willing to spend about $60-70USD you can get a posable action figure from NECA. This is gonna let you pose the miniature best for where you put him in the pin. These are also the max size you can fit, which is just over 6 inches.
There are 4 eras of Godzilla so the first decision is which Godzilla you want. Probably the original 50s-70s Godzilla which had the movies that most of the pin is based on. There are two Neca Figures at least for this era. eBay is your best bet:
"Neca 1956 Movie Poster Godzilla" <- what I ordered
"Neca 1964 Godzilla vs Mothra" <- my 2nd choice
The 1956 is based on the 1956 Amercian version of the original 1954 Godzilla. They changed the costume after this first movie (Not to mention that Godzilla died, and the other movies have a second Godzilla), So there's some subtle differences between this and the 1964 figure.
But the most important difference between these two figures is the 1956 Movie Poster edition is brightly painted. I think this fits the pinball game better, as its very bright. But, it doesn't really match the Godzilla from this Era, who was very desaturated. If you happen to have miniature painting skills, perhaps you can paint whatever figure you get, but if not, keep that in mind.
sorry for the wall of text. I've just spent way too much time looking for a plastic godzilla toy and didn't want all my work to go to waste=)
I know there are some enterprising individuals who sell properly designed fan mounts to cool coils, but is it a bad idea for me to just find a way to zip tie mount some old PC fans pointing at the coils? Can't hurt right??
Quoted from Green-Machine:Finally got to finishing adding clear rubber
looks great. but the right slingshot has black rubber and the left slingshot has clear rubber!
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Easier way is to loosen guide bolt under field, squeeze guide inward and re tighten. Before and after pics. Huge difference, much easier to hit loop shot
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just got my GZ and pulled the playfield out just to do this after only 1 or 2 starts. Huge difference thanks for sharing.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:What do people have their scoop eject power set to?
I have 5/31 machine also. I just lowered it a bit until it would come out, bounce off left flipper, and go up right inlane to set up a shot (I haven't been able to catch it at this setting, but its better than it bouncing into a slingshot. I want to say the value was like 215 but i cant recall
Quoted from pinballjah:Some people ordered in Nov. 2021 and are still waiting, you only have to wait 6 weeks?
I ordered one last Friday and got it this week Thursday, 6 days from contact to delivery. I contacted at least 15-20 distros over several weeks. If your deposit is refundable you should shop around..would not be surprised if you found one in stock. The 5/31 run was huge, and someone said they went back on the line this month. And July..
People that ordered from the most popular distributors seem to be the ones waiting the longest.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Yours may be a little washed out looking compared to mine
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Well, he did the inserts with the lamps on. Mine looks like his with the lamps on, but looks better with them off. I havent noticed the same issue over the plywood though
Quoted from golfergordy:I'm trying to eliminate the places on the pf where the ball gets stuck during live action. The pic shows where the ball occasionally gets stuck at the entrance to the building. Does anyone know if the building can be raised a tiny bit relative to the pf to prevent this? Has anyone had this issue and solved it?
Thanks
[quoted image]
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:This is a common place for the ball to hang up on a weak shot, I just deal with it as it doesn't happen too often.
Out of 11,000 posts on this thread 14 are stickied. Worth a read..one of them tells you how to adjust building height..very easy through the menu..
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Thanks for that!
Anyone else having issues with the ball being plunged all the way to the upper level where Mecha Godzilla sits? I've never seen this happen on location, but it's happened a bunch on mine since I got it. The ball can then stay stuck behind Mecha's arm or behind that nut near the base.
This happens after manual plunge, never auto plunge.
My auto plunge was doing it quite often, so I dialed the power for it down. All good now. I have never done it with manual plunge..but I am usually not firing it as hard as possible (as there's no reason to)
Quoted from iAmKemo:... do you always want to full plunge the ball or is there any kind of finesse shot?
There are at least 4 different skillshots . Stern has a rulesheet you can find on their website for the game that describes them..the farthest one is to shoot up and behind the upper flipper..
Quoted from Pugster:I’m going to try this 3D printed mod to help with the fan noise. I like the idea of not having to crack the power supply if I can avoid it, and the Noctua fans I’ve used are dead silent. This mod keeps the internal fan from ever spinning up by keeping temps constantly cool. Seemed like an elegant solution, my local 3D printer guy charged me less than $10.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844962
Props to the pinsider that came up with this and offered it to the community. [quoted image]
I just did this yesterday. probably any 60mm fan you can find will be quieter than the PSU fan, don't gotta go out of your way to get a $15 noctua. I grabbed a cheap 24v fan out of a box of spare parts, wired up to 12v and its spinning enough to keep the stock PSU from coming on (and i can't hear it from 4 ft away)
It's sad how little effort they put into this. "lets have a really loud fan come on intermittently to cool the psu instead of a more quiet fan spinning constantly"
Quoted from Pugster:Did you use the same method to grab 12V? Pinball life cable?
I actually took an old 12v wall brick (from an old router i think) and plugged that into the outlet inside the cabinet. I do want to get that pinball life cable, or at least that connector, because I want to add flipper coil fans next, and the outlet is always-on...
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The fan is part of the cheap power supply they're using; it's not anything directly controlled by the game. We should be a little more suspicious of these power supplies using bottom-of-the-barrel parts to power the game
Meanwell makes a fine, quality power supply. They're pretty much the go to place for off the shelf DC power supply. Perhaps they should have gotten a beefier one that wasn't pushed so hard, or had better cooling, i dunno.
Have had my premium for 5 days now. First pin. Have been tinkering with it a bit before today(neca figure, new shooter, replaced speakers), but today I put in a shaker motor,art blades, some fans on the coils/PSU and waxed the playfield. Wow. The wax makes it so much meaner! This game is so much fun... glad to be in the club!
Quoted from pghpinfan:Looking to add a shaker motor to my GZ Premium. Any difference between the generic one on Pinball Life versus the Stern authorized one which is $20 more?
installed PBL shaker to my gz prem yesterday. seems quality. has good instructions, and seems to work very well.
Quoted from pinlawyer:I have the Tesla tower mod, and just broke one of the towers. Since I bought my pin already modded, I don’t know if I need to buy one tower or a whole new set of three. Anyone?
Thanks.
It's a thin 3d printed thing inside a pinball machine...it's probably going to break again.. just super glue it....
Otherwise, contact the seller to see. Last I checked he was 4 weeks out though.
Quoted from golfergordy:Has anyone had a ball get stuck here? Couldn't shake it loose. Only solution was to remove the glass.
[quoted image]
On mine it was getting up here on auto plunge. Solution was to lower auto plunge power. Do you know how yours is getting up there?
Quoted from tdiddy:Just noticed something on my Gz pro. The "attack bridge" insert flickers off any switch hit. I'm running the older .93 code was this an issue back? I'm going to start digging in to see if there's a ground short somewhere but figured I'd ask also.....but it doesn't light in switch test mode
Is it not related to the fact that switch hits add up to qualify "attack bridge"? You have to hit N switches (any switch) and then attack bridge lights up.
Quoted from tdiddy:I should play my game more lol
No no, just keep making Tesla towers
Quoted from barakandl:What's your favorite Godzilla movies? Re-watching the ones that I can find.
I watched from 1954 through terror of mechagodzilla, which is the first era and what the pin pulls from. They're all on HBO. I used the Godzilla franchise Wikipedia page to keep track of them all.
It is all kind of a blur but my favorite characters are definitely Mothra and Jet Jaguar. And the various alien races. Also love the one where it puts dubs on Godzilla and Angarius' conversation.
Quoted from newovad:Some crazy people rent a truck and pick it up from the freight location. Just saying that might be an option.
not that crazy. saved me $300 (assuming you already know somebody with a pick up truck or large SUV)
anyone else having issue with the skill shot behind the left flipper not registering? I've hit it 3 times since updating to 0.97 and it doesn't trigger. I'll go inspecting switches I guess but I just want to make sure since it seems like a coincidence they were mucking with skill shot enables (I don't think this one counts as a secret skill shot, though, and i have secret skill shots enabled anyway)
How else do you get the playfield over the hump to pull out far enough to tilt back? I thou
Quoted from Shuoink:Tha ks, it definitely isn't the oxygen destroyer.
The animation that plays is the same one you get when you get a ball save where manilla electrocutes baby godzilla...
And it happens every ball almost out the gate. I will contact their support
This seems like a pretty simple issue, if you're gonna own a machine you gotta get comfortable with troubleshooting and fixing it..
Take off glass. Go into the diagnostics menu with the coin door buttons and go to switch test. Close coin door. Push the two switches and see what it thinks they are. If they are indeed reversed, you'll have to swap them..they are close enough id probably just swap the physical switches assuming you have the wire slack..but once you tip the playfield back you should be able to figure out the easiest way.
Quoted from Pugster:Installed my mods today, one of them stood out.
If you have a Pro or Premium and haven’t replaced the speakers with something decent, head to this thread and read everything you can.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route
For what it’s worth I replaced my speakers with 5.25” Kicker DS’s and a JBl Stage 810 in the cabinet. Nothing expensive. Initially I was unimpressed but as soon as I set the EQ to the settings recommended on that thread (with upgraded speakers and sub) the sound came alive. It’s a WHOA moment. Even at lower volumes the clarity and “stage” of the sound is in a different universe than what was coming from the junky OEM speakers. YMMV but I’m very happy.
I did the same but 4" kicker cs4s, just because the thought of 0 effort mounting sounded nice..maybe 5.25 would have been a smarter idea, I may rotate them to a hypothetical future machine and put 5.25 on GZ
The pro got better for Godzilla multiball, but the premium also got better. Man, when the building comes down... The new light show, the shaker motor, with upgraded speakers ... It's so cool. Think I would miss the bridge too. And mechagodzilla magnet is cool, but no one ever talks about it...
Quoted from Shuoink:Mine has the same Date as yours on it... to say it was a bitch is an understatement. I couldn't budge it at all until I used some suction cups off a bath pillow on it. I thought I was going to break it for sure....
Getting it off the second time was even worse. Going to replace with HD glass, but I'm not sure how anyone at the factory put that glass on and thought yeah thats a perfect fit
Quoted from DaveH:https://flipperfidelity.com/copy-of-stern-8-speaker-system-le-conversion-for-spike-2-pro-and-premium/
$174.95
For the ones that he listed:
Kicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial SpeakerKicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial Speaker
and "JBL Stage 810 800W Max 8" Stage Series Single 4 ohm Car Audio Subwoofer Speaker"
$70 (uppers) and $80 (lower). $150 for the three speakers needed.
So the Flipper Fidelity comes out to $25 more expensive, but also comes with the adapters to mount the upper speakers. And if I'm missing something here, feel free to let me know.
I mean flipper fidelity obviously does not make speakers. And they covered up any indication of what speakers they used with their stickers. Maybe its common knowledge somewhere what speakers they use, but just from looking at their site, i can't tell. I have to assume the speakers cost them less than $150..... they obviously need to make money, and shipping is expensive. I suspect they buy the 3 speakers themselves for well under $100. Still, they're going to be better than the stock speakers, I can tell just by looking at the size and shape of them.
Meanwhile, on the "DIY" thread, OP is testing many speakers and many configurations. The Kicker+JBL 810 combo you priced out is the best speakers he has found out of all the ones he's tested. And he's got a GZ that i believe he's testing on, so assuming you trust this guys hearing, you know your getting great speakers.
If you have a soldering iron, and can spend 10 minutes soldering, I am pretty certain you'll have a better result, for the same or possibly a slightly lower price.
Quoted from Days:I have my Godzilla (at last , ordered day one ). The flipper is amazing, to see the ball movement traveling at the ramps is amazing, my favourite pinball machine ever!
But i have a minor "problem", i have a premium and when the ball "locks" on the top of the building, sometimes the coils doesn't send the ball, well it sends but it doesn't arrive on the top, what i can be? a power problem? to much or too less power? Normally it only lands on the top at the 2nd try.
You can and should adjust the setting of all the coil-powered things this one is gonna be called like building vuk or something. just go through the game specific settings and you'll find it. You also want to tweak the autoplunge and scoop to your taste.
It's not a good feeling though, especially for a visiting guest who doesn't understand its 'by design' and they get excited about reaching the multiball only to go stdm. You also can get more shots with the ball saver up if they don't drain right away...
On mine if i hit the flippers at just the right time i can save 1-3 of the, but usually at least 1 goes down, which bothers me. Think I'll install the mod, since it's not reaching its 'intended design' anyway (since they don't usually ALL go stdm, at least for me)
Quoted from SimplePin:It is the intended design. Hundreds of pages back Keith chimed in on the discussion. Makes sense. It also all about leveling.
Yes, I understand its intended design, and acknowledged that. Does not make me like it more, going to change it for the reasons i listed (which i suspect are same reasons others are changing, even understanding that its intentional
Quoted from DeathHimself:Switch is working fine, no other ball saves active. When it drains it's game over. Does the insert stay lit or flash when ready? I have only ever seen flashing.
Flash. Play with it with glass off. Go to ball 3 and push switch
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Did my mothra lose a wing in battle or is Mothra supposed to be missing part of her wing?
[quoted image]
no yours is broken. a hell of an airball. good opportunity to replace with a toy mothra?
Quoted from Shuoink:They are all part of the "free on YouTube with ads" also
Almost the whole collection, fyi
If you don't want ads, you can just subscribe to HBO for a month. They have almost or all of the movies through terror of mecha. Or Criterion has their own service (they own the rights to all these movies). Their platform is worse but some movies they offer multiple versions of (Japanese, American, Japanese w/English dub) note I'm pretty sure it's impossible to find all the movies with English dub. Most I watched with subtitles.
Quoted from pghpinfan:Where is the scoop supposed to eject the ball to and what power setting do you have it at? Mine came from factory at full power and ejects hard to left flipper bounces to right flipper and up to the top of left sling. Is that correct? If so I got some practicing to do lol!
It's your machine! I think many people choose to turn it down. Mine is turned down to the point where it bounces off left flipper, rolls up right inlane to trigger switch, and then back down..
I also have turned auto plunge down because it was getting stuck behind mechagodzilla (jumping the shooter lane wall). I found if it's not powerful enough to hit magnet at bridge, I can have a choice if I want to hit it or not (pre-empt auto plunge with full plunge). Usually I want to collect bridge/tank/magna grab, but maybe this is the last hit for bridge or tank and you don't want to start those models yet.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:My one problem with my Godzilla Premium right now is one out of every five shots to the building roof gets lost, somehow. Lock is lit, I make the shot, and the ball doesn't come out on top. The game will then cycle through, doing its thing trying to locate the ball (I can hear the VUK firing), but no ball. It'll cycle like this three or four times until it gives up, and I lose that turn (ball.)
The next ball, if I shoot through the building, both balls will be kicked up to the roof, counting as ball one lock. This means that by time I lock the third ball, there are four balls on the roof.
Any idea what the problem might be?
Playfield leveled properly, and is the building aligned vertically? Is first floor level with the playfield? You can go into game settings and try raising it up or down a hair. Seems like it's not making it to vuk and the next ball pushes it a long
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Maybe a dumb question: how to I take the glass off and place the ball on a flipper and then put the glass back on to resume play without losing the ball?
If you put the ball in the shooter trough, then put everything back together but leave the coin door open, then as soon as you close the coin door the ball will auto plunge
Quoted from pluto:You don't have to take the playfield out. It's a tight fight but what I've found works best as a two person job is push the playfield as far as it can go while in the up position to the opposite side of the side of the cabinet you're currently putting the art blade in. Line up the blade and then cut like 3-5 inches of the protective material over the adhesive from the front of the blade (nearest the flippers) and stick that into place. Then just slowly keep the back of the blade held and peel the protective material back as you go.
A lot of people will suggest the wet method, but I've found this method, assuming you have a second set of hands, to be really really easy.
I installed art blades for the first time on my first pinball machine last week..I did watch a YouTube video first but mostly yolo'd as a single person..I did push the upright playfield to the far side, but other than that I just ripped the whole backing off and stick it on there. You can peel it back off several times, I learned, as you adjust, no problem. I wasn't happy with it the first couple of times, and peeled it off even though it was all the way on..
It seems quite hard to mess up.
Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:Going on the record as saying this was a very, very happy mod to install which I highly recommend. The entire package is so nicely put together including the tools to get these installed. And, they look great (tho admittedly, I should have gone with the gold). My only recommendation is to swap out the cheap bolts that Stern uses with something a bit tougher - which in no way is a reflection of the overall product.
Installation didn't take long at all. What took the most time was dialing in exactly what I wanted the flipper angle to be. And yep, my shots to that scoop just got a lot better.
Nicely constructed, nicely packaged, and very light.
I am an extremely happy camper, and I think they really add to the playfield.
Well done!
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Ok I gave had this game for a few weeks, I've put in hundreds of plays, and I still am really bad at the scoop and left spinner shot. Like 5-10%. Granted I am new to pinball, and I am slowly slowly getting better, but can you or anyone else who has tried moving flippers down comment more on how it affects all of the various shots? Presumably some shots get harder. Can you still hit building with left flipper and small loop with right flipper? I think those are both pretty important especially with OD in game now
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Are these suggested sub upgrades plug and play as far as wiring goes? Remove old sub, use same wires is about as far as my technical audio visual skills go.
You need to unsolder the connector from the old speaker and resolder it to the new one. At least that's the best/easiest thing to do.
You're also going to have to sort out a way to mount it, as the bolts aren't long enough. Some longer m3 bolts with nuts, or some sex bolts that match the stock bolts, are simplest two options.
Finally you want to put a spacer in, or remove the mesh, or move the mesh to under the cabinet, to not be in the way
All of this is covered in the DIY sound thread, recommend reading at least the key posts there
Quoted from Bschafer:I just got my Godzilla premium! I have just noticed the center spinner is not working. Gigan and when tank are lit I can hit it over and over, it spins but it’s not registering. Any ideas what I should be looking for? Thanks for any help!
You can do a switch test through the menu to see if it's registering there, or maybe some other switch or nothing at all.
Look at the mechanism and see if it looks like the micro switch is being pressed down when the spinner spins
Lift up the playfield and see if it's disconnected or not pushed all the way in
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I am ordering mirror blades for my Godzilla Premium from cointaker.
Anything else for Goldzilla I should pic up from them?
Richard
if you've got money to burn this looks pretty cool:
https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit
Quoted from pghpinfan:If it pierces that wire is that ok as I am pretty sure it will?
Pretty sure it's by design to be at least adjacent so that the shaker is grounded. And the purpose of it being braided is so that things can pierce it to be grounded.
Quoted from Soltic:Doug can you pm me please, If this is true I somehow ordered 4/20 and want to make sure you got it…. Site shows / showed “may delay order” but still allowed me to add to cart and pay by pp.
Not sure if trolling but January orders have not finished being fulfilled yet, according to multiple posters, so you've got a wait. You can search this thread and the mod thread for "Doug" or "speaker lights" to get an idea of current situation. You're just gonna have to wait. I doubt asking a guy who's made it clear to not but him about it to "pm you" on a thread of 12000 posts is really gonna help.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/247#post-7012824
Quoted from Zitt:These really have been used interchangeably for years; but, I can tell you with certainty that I will not be modifying our mold to make these shorter. That would be cost prohibitive and just not worth it for 1/16th of an inch. .
Relax, it's a feature! Just update product page as " industry first custom, cut to length pop bumper actuator"
Doesn't seem like a big deal to take a file to the tip on any games that require it..better too long than too short!
Thanks for supplying these to the community. Will be ordering some when back in stock
To start, "advance fighter" on both lanes should light. Trigger inlane switch to light each of the 3 missiles 9! Each side. When all 6 are lit, jets starts...subsequent jets get harder but that should be enough for your debug..it would be surprising if all 6 missile lights or both advance fighters were out I guess..
Quoted from SimplePin:Yes, they should light up and animate. Does neither side work? I would start by checking the wires to the connectors and reseating.
Actually probably start by doing the "all LEDs" test in diagnostics menu. If they work there, try the switch test to see if inlane switches work
Quoted from GuiitarMan:I just won a new Stern Premium from Project Pinball on Sunday! Today, my order is in for Godzilla Premium! It won't arrive until sometime in 2023, but I don't want to miss out on any mods that may get discontinued. What current mods are must haves for Premium owners? Thanks for your feedback in advance!
Congrats! the neon sign mode i believe is capped at 500, and they're at 450, so check that one out for sure.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-tokyo-neon-sign-mod
Quoted from KneeKickLou:So we just need to order 1 of everything on that page in the color we want?
Careful! As he mentioned earlier we cleared him out of one of the clear parts, you'll notice even if you select clear it will set red. I believe it'll take a while to get more of those clear parts.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Thing for people with magna grab issues to investigate: check to see if the ball guide to the right of it is contacting the captive ball. Mine was. TBD the degree to which that was causing the issue of shots from the left flipper flying past it after passing through and around the building.
doesn't the captive ball just cradle between the two guides, sitting on top of the magnet? I'm confused why the captive ball contacting the guide is bad (or perhaps, not a necessity). When I tightened my left guide (to make left ramp wider) i felt like i was basically squeezing the two guides together against the ball.
Quoted from Arcade:So the bridge is breaking these plastics and not the ball?
Interesting.
What is the best place to get a replacement plastic, Stern? Marco, Pinball life?
You can replace it with this piece of stainless steel, and then you dont even have to worry about modifying your bridge mech:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1029-chrome-candy/05861-under-the-bridge-plastic-replacement
he also has a set of similar mods for around the playfield if you like the look.
Newer GZs have a smaller piece of plastic there (doesn't cover magnet) so keep that in mind if seeking a replacement.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:I have a newer one with the smaller plastic, and I'm starting to see some damage there anyway. It's going to get worse as I get better at triggering bridge multiball.
Definitely put a little piece of rubber there or something to protect it from further damage until you.get around to fixing the bridge
Quoted from viper001:I just joined the club, my Premium just arrived yesterday and it getting the crap played out of it right now behind me.
So this question is going to reveal the level of obsessive I possess. Unlike others on this thread I like and embrace the Connect system. I have everything setup but the only sticker for folks to scan to join is up on the speaker panel, kind of hard to get to with my lineup. They included a heavy duty vinyl sticker with the QR but my question is, where does it go? Basically, where is the "official" spot to place it? I don't want to cover up any art or words, and I can't see any obvious lined off squares where you would place it? With it being heavy duty, does it get stuck to the playfield glass directly? TIA!
I don't think many people hate insider connected as a feature, but the sticker on the speaker panel is ugly, so many want to remove it (peels off easy) and certainly not add a second one.
The only thing that QR code does is save you from typing "insider.stern.com". You then have to register for an account, so just telling new players to go to that website is not much more effort.
For family /frequent players it's easiest to print the personal qr code. Scanning the qr sticker, logging in with phone, and putting phone to game, will get very very tedious. I leave my little credit card sized laminated print right on the apron, and the cards for rest of family near by.
To answer your question, there is not on official place for that sticker, or they would have put it there.
Quoted from golfergordy:The game makes the "how embarrassing" callout in English, if you're in either English or Japanese mode. One curious thing, though, is that this callout isn't always made for every very low scoring ball. It seems a bit random.
Callouts are random so that it doesn't get too repetitive or boring.
I know you can replace video on stern SW, like the 1987 tmnt mod, is it possible to edit audio? Are the individual shout outs replaceable I wonder, or is it a complete package.
If its intentional that balls should drain (and Elwin said it was, to prevent building getting bashed or ball traveling through ramps while building moving) then why are the flippers active? Disable them, just like the saucer multiball (why are the flippers disabled at the start of that anyway?). Leaving flippers active, and trying to catch the balls and have them go down the middle, just feels bad. In 400 games i haven't had an issue shooting balls while the building is moving so i feel like it's a pretty weak argument
Quoted from Only_Pinball:there is still a plastic but it doesnt cover the magnet core[quoted image]
And no, this is not an adequate chnge..saw wear on that plastic within days. Put a piece of rubber where bridge hits temporarily until you get around to adding a washer in the coil mech (see pinned posts)
Quoted from maxharvard:Hey all,
figured I'd try my luck here, located in MN, hoping to find a Godzilla Premium near me or get on a list to order a NIB one. Any luck out there? willing to ship or travel if close by. Thanks all.
Three options:
1. Pay an extra $1-2000 and buy one today.
2. Call a big distributor and wait 6-12 months
3. Do the leg work and call every distributor in the country and see if anyone happens to have a slot for July. Keep your ear to the ground. you may get lucky. I had one distributor I contacted in may call me recently to offer me a July slot, but I had already gotten lucky and found a other dealer who had one in stock and let it go for MSRP
Posting in a large thread probably isn't going to work, considering many many people have been waiting 6+ months.
Quoted from freddy:Just installed Diddy’s NAEGELE bld.
Wow! Easy install sight forward!
Bld. Is scaled perfectly. Doing lots of test play now! I am enjoying the exit flap on bld cool feature.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. Can you tell us if the "diddys mod" bits and goat billboard can be removed easily?
Quoted from john17a:got confirmed today ,, PREMIUM , can i get some advice on best mods ,, MUCH prefered from the 1 source ,, shipping to Australia hurts
sorry, there is no 1 source for the most popular mods. at best some of the makers have 2-3 out that you could buy together. Just go to the mod thread and look at the photos. see what strikes your fancy.
Quoted from gamera9:Anyone?
search function?
Quoted from docquest:When Keith Elwin was on the Loserkid. Podcast he mention some if the movies they could not use in the game.
I think these are the 5 that were not included are:
Godzilla Raid Again (1955)
King Kong vs Godzilla (1962)
Destroy All Monsters (1968)
Godzilla vs Hedorah (1971)
Godzilla vs. Mechagodzilla (1974)
And these are the ones that were included:
Godzilla (1954)
Mothra vs. Godzilla (1964)
Ghidorah, The Three-Headed Monster (1964)
Invasion of Astro-Monster (1965)
Ebirah, Horror of the Deep (1966)
Son Of Godzilla(1967)
All Monsters Attack (1969)
Godzilla vs. Gigan (1972)
Godzilla vs. Megalon (1973)
Terror of Mechagodzilla (1975)
But they have an animated versions of Hedorah in the game and art of some others (King Cesar) so I'm not sure what "not included" really means.
Well, playfield art is original by zombie yeti. I think it's just film assets that they were limited on.
Quoted from etr104:Hey guys .. long story short, I ordered a Godzilla Premium back in January (no deposit taken). My distributor still has no eta on it. However I now am informed that my distro will have some Rush premiums in stock. (Another game I really wanted). Getting the Rush will delay my being able to afford the Godzilla (without taking out some debt which I hate doing). So I guess my question to you guys... a Godzilla Premium ordered in January with no ETA on it from my distro. realistically, when would you expect it to show up? My worry is getting the Rush now, and then my distro suddenly getting Godzilla Prem in stock quickly, and me having to either cancel my order or take out debt to buy it. How far backlogged are these Godzilla orders at this point?
If you want Godzilla or any high demand game these days, you have to lose the concept of "my distributor". If your favorite grocery store is out of diapers do you say "oh well I guess I'll just wait".. you just go to the next store...
We don't know how many people are on each list, when/how big runs are or how they're being allocated. What we do know is some people have waited 9 months and some people are getting machines right away. Gotta put in the work and hope to get lucky.
Quoted from sidesmack40:Dead on! Seems like a lot of distributors are starting to push the price way over msrp. I was just offered one for $10,699 out if the July run. I just can’t pay that much over msrp. But I am willing to pay a maybe $500 extra to land one this year!
Only the real scummy ones. Most distributors don't sell nib for over MSRP.
I paid MSRP plus shipping ($500), cash. Yes I feel like $500 for 6+ months felt fair.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:I have an alternate translite so it would like fine. It’s not that bad. You don’t have to like it but don’t exaggerate. It still took skill it’s far from crap.
Skill? Isn't it just hacking together existing zombie yeti artwork? Or did someone just copy it that well?
Anyone do anything yet for the skill shot to the "imposter battle" switch? Always pisses me off when i make the shot but it goes below the switch.
In these two posts:
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210/122
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210/123
It seems like KME is suggesting there's going to be a "fix" but I don't know what that would be code wise, unless the spinner also counts for the shot
that post was a long time ago too, so doesn't seem like they will actually do anything about it.
anyone know how i can source rods of suitable diameter to attempt to bend my own solution into shape? (or some other solution if someone has one)
Quoted from awesome1:I've seen this discussed, but in ~1000 games played I've never had this happen - even though that is my goto plunge shot.
Man. Happens to me at least 1 in 10 times. Happened to me twice today. I have found a lot of times if i hit the upper part of the flipper I can hit the flipper and roll it over. But that's not the only time it happens
Quoted from Muymanwell:their parts dept is...not quick. however, if you've waited more than a month, i'd follow up for an ETA.
if node boards are the production bottleneck as some expect, why would any node boards make their way to the parts dept for a game thats already sold, when it could go into a new $8000 machine??
Quoted from splickety_lit:This is the answer that should be given whenever this question is asked.
Most people are not asking "is the pro worth getting" but 'hey I know Godzilla is the highest rated pinball out there. Should I get pro or premium"..
Yes the pro is great..but if you can spring for the premium, I think I've only seen like 1 person ever say the was better, and never a premium owner regret their decision..
Quoted from jkashani:Shooter rod recommendations for a premium: Stern or Modfather (if Modfather which one and what size). Thank You
really happy with mine from superskillshot.com. matches the prem artwork really well i think and really nice to the touch. I just need to figure out something for the back backplate.
PXL_20220620_142806244 (resized).jpgPXL_20220620_142813686 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gotfrogs:It is not the exact same game. It has better speakers, shaker motor, HD glass, interior art blades, powder coating, and other extras. To me an LE is a better buy than a premium. Game play (minus the shaker) is the same but the machine is not.
>>And other extras
pretty sure you named them all
You can add better speakers, art blades, shaker, hd glass, and have options on most of those, for hundreds of dollars..you could get your parts powder coated for hundreds of dollars albeit that's a little more hassle, but pick whatever color you want.. $2500 for those things is just not worth it, unless you just say "I don't want to buy any extra parts or do any work on my pinball machine", but that person is going to have a bad time owning a pinball machine.
If it makes you happy, it makes you happy. If money is no object and you want the 1x3" limited edition plaque, then go for it, but you can't talk about the "value" aspect of it or all the "exclusive" extras you get, at least not with a straight face
I just did my first full rage combo (After 750 games or so) Maybe the only one I ever get (considering I am probably less than 1% at getting a tail whip off a loop), so I just wanted to say how fun and exhilarating that was and how rewarding it felt with the 1x DJ and lighting the DJ
Quoted from DiabloRush:All my games have shakers. Both Stern and Pinball Life versions (rev C). I prefer the Pinball Life version. It's not only cheaper, I think the shaker effect is smoother and not as harsh. YMMV. Good luck.
I've got pinball life shaker on my GZ. very happy with it.
Quoted from RxGolfer:Anyone have a pro with the side armor? Looking for a good picture to help me decide whether to purchase or not. Also, any thoughts on side armor in general?
you can search this thread for side armor and see some pics of prem and le. I think the prem and pro are similar enough in color scheme that you can decide if you like the look.
As far as general thoughts... it's $300. There are dozens of great mods you can do for less than that, that have a bigger impact (assuming you spend more time looking under the glass than at the side of the machine). Even outside the playfield, i'd focus on backglass mods, speaker panel, shooter rod, etc, maybe even powder coating the legs/rails before i thought about the side armor. But, if you ran out of stuff you'd rather do with that $300, and really like the side armor look (I could take it or leave it), then go for it!
Quoted from KneeKickLou:I guess if you want to move it around, but what happens is you go into the menu enable Home Team, then you can scan in a number of players, I think 8, then before you start a game hold in the left flipper. The home team menu comes up and allows you to assign different logins to each player 1-4.
You could move the scanner around to each machine and store people that way but if friends not on the home team want to log in they would still need a scanner.
What i saw in insider connected thread is:
1. if you create your home team for your location, you'll see those same users when you enable home team on other machines in the same location
2. you don't need to have scanner attached to use home team.
What I'm not sure about is if you need scanner connected to set up the IC originally and add the game to your "location"
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Just had a weird thing happen, the bridge let my ball fall to the playfield like I was starting Bridge Multiball, but I wasn't, and no extra ball was put into play. Just the bridge collapsing. Is this a bug in the new code, or a feature I didn't know about?
(Prem / LE) Why does the bridge randomly fall apart sometimes?
The bridge activation isn’t random - there are certain times during a game when it activates, so look out when it happens. The bridge activates whenever you collect a Train Award, and when you score the Train Jackpot during Super Train Loops. It also activates at the start of Bridge Attack Multiball and when the Bridge Super Jackpot is lit during that multiball. The game should divert balls that exit the broken bridge to the Magna-Grab, though sometimes they can bounce right off the upper flipper and towards the bumper.
Quoted from mbrave77:all my IC connected games today had reasonable download and install times for the update. GZ is going on 4 hours now. not stuck, making progress, super slow. Its always been this way with that game. Maybe I can buy a better wifi adapter for that game?
Wifi goes in a straight line. For example, if you draw a straight line from the access point to the godzilla wifi adapter, and it goes through 5 pinball machines, that would be explain poor signal.
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:Is it just me or does it look like you scratched/knicked the right cabinet metal guards when put the playfield right next to it. In the future It is far much easier to take the entire playfield out. All you have to do is quick disconnect 2 wires and the ethernet cable plus clip about 2 or 3 zip ties at most.
Or just don't remove the playfield when installing the art blades. Completely unnecessary. I did it with playfield flipped up by myself in 10 min..didn't get it right the first time. Just peeled it back off and adjusted. No wet method or any nonsense .it seemed pretty hard to mess up
Quoted from awesome1:Godzilla Pinball Quick Defeat of Ebirah Kaiju Battle!
Looks like you've got your alu flippers a touch lower than normal unless thats just the angle deceiving me. Is it helping with your scoop shot? I plan to order some on the next batch and try. I also notice it kind of rattles into the scoop for you when you start battle. mine never does that! the ball is alergic to the scoop and rejects on anything but a perfect shot
Guys I'm so frustrated with the scoop shot! It's not way harder than all the other shots, maser, left flipper, left ramp, all a bit tough for me, but none are as important as the scoop! To get to planet X I need to hit the scoop at least 12 times or so, assuming no seperate ally/power up collects, only 1 tank multiball and no retries on battles, just beelining it. I've got over 800 games in. I've cracked a billion a couple of times. But I've only gotten past the second city twice because of the damn scoop. I just did a game where I basically only tried to practice scoop shots (did some modes i accidentally started). Didn't shoot the left ramp once. Accidentally started two MGZ MB. Got 500M on accident in 3 balls, only got it in the scoop a few times.
So, other than "get better", anything I can do to make the scoop easier? different rubers on the adjacent posts? address the bump of the scoop protector (it's sitting flat, but still a bump). I saw someone replace a cracked protector and get better results. Mine is not cracked.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Have you tried a rolling backhand flip?
Check out Don’t Panic Flip on YouTube or twitch specifically his GOTG videos since it’s close to the same scoop position.
Basically cradle on the right flipper, do a micro flip to get it rolling up the inlane and as it slowly rolls to the tip of the flipper you can backhand into the scoop very gently.
It’ll definitely take some practice but might get less rejects as it’s a slower shot.
Yeah when i try to micro flip its more of a post pass to the other flipper (though not a controlled one, which would be nice). I can't get it to just roll up the right flipper a bit. When the ball does have just enough momentum to roll up the flipper, i do try to backhand it, with limited success
Quoted from Sleal16:Do you feel the shot angle is tough or that even when it "looks" good theres not enough open clearance to continue the drop? I've purposely aim for lower than usual because I get decent results having the ball skit off the pop bumper. Maser is like 1-in-10 success and the scoop is 1-in-3 for me. I would check that the protector is snug and not dropping a bit, not necessarily the bump. Who knows, maybe the gap might not be big enough. Not sure how you would have a bump and still be flat.
Ok I took the glass off and rolled it in there a few dozen times. fast, slow. The scoop feels very fair and easy like that, so I guess I'm just really bad. I do agree that clipping the saucer is a good way to go, especially if it registers a hit.
Hopefully I can tweak the flipper angle and have a little better luck (yes I know that is a bit of a cop out and against the design intent... i just wanna play my machine without getting so frustrated)
Quoted from HC2016:Need a perspective from the Pro owners . I have a BKSOR pro that’s going and will be replaced by a Godzilla pro . As far as gameplay the pro looks great . But compared to BK is it lacking mechs ? BK has the Flail and the moving shield . Just wondering about this as I can’t afford the premium.
if mechs are important to you, definitely get the Prem vs Pro.
Pro:
1 magnet
Premium:
2 magnets
3 moving mechs that affect gameplay and are fun to watch/interact with.
Quoted from Wade: I think having a pinball wizard design a game might actually be a bad thing, and might result in a game being too difficult. I hit that left ramp shot about 1 in 20 times. I'm not a great player, but I'm a decent player and have been playing at home and on route pretty regularly for 20 years. Regardless of what you think of my skills, someone who plays that much should be able to hit that shot more than 5% of the time.
Check the ball guide to the left of the captive ball. If it's sticking out a little bit, you need to adjust this and snug it up to the captive ball (captive ball should still be able to move, doesn't need a big gap) Will give you a little more leeway on the left ramp shot. At least several people have had this issue.
Quoted from Forehead_Slap:I had looked into getting this because the stock one just looks cheap. But this looks too big and bright in the pictures, like it dominates the right side of the play field. It just seems like too much light.
Is it that way in real life or does it blend in better?
It's completely customizable. You can set the color, brightness, and effect of 5 different LEDS (3 modes, border, and right side sign) separately.
At full brightness, it is a bit too much. unless you buy all of his other mods he has in the works and your pinball machine just becomes a christmas tree!
But I'm very happy with it turned down a bit.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Played for first time since update, and now only have to shoot 1 ramp to qualify battle . Doesn't matter which , it lights battle. Just a coincidence or new code? Any ideas to fix?
its a setting that somehow must have gotten turned. Go into game specific settings and look for "light battle difficulty" or something. the default is "hard". I Don't know exactly what the lower settings do.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Is the building shot tighter on the premium? I don’t have a ton of time on one, but played in a tournament Sunday, and I would get rejects to the building a lot if my shot wasn’t perfect.
My premium has changed over time. I think it has to do with playfield level, and building level / height.
Quoted from awesome1:Darn it! Was on first ball last night, start of a good game and the building lost track of the third locked ball, so GZ multiball didn't start and instead went into ball search. Couldn't lock any balls anymore and after ball went to top of building, the game would go into ball search.
Tracked it down to the building VUK exit opto (#64). No light on receiver. If I disconnect and reconnect, the light blinks for a second and goes out.
Removed the opto and the LED receiver just fell off the board. The leads snapped at the led - I tried to solder, but not enough leads left to do anything with.
Had to order a new one. Looks like I'm down for a bit. May have to see if one of my other Sterns has the same opto if it's not here by the weekend.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think you can disable the building in the game-specific adjustments, which I assume will basically make it behave like a pro wrt the building. play around with it if you don't want to wait.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Typical after a wax, and why I stopped waxing new games. I just clean them. No wax. That being said, the craziness will subside after 50 plays or so.
This is my first pin. I want to keep the playfield in good shape. Figured I should wax it whenever I clean it. I have waxed it 3 time in 900 games or so. It does get insanely fast after a wax but calms down pretty quickly.
Is waxing even when new useful for protecting the playfield artwork?
Quoted from lockeness:ball behind mechag and I had to remove the glass
- twice the game was searching for balls post drain when they were all in the right spot. I had to reboot.
As the 4th NIB Stern I’ve bought I‘m a tad disappointed I had to futz around with it so much night 1. But its super fun.
For the plunge behind mecha probably two solutions:
1. Turn down auto plunge power. I would try to make it so that it usually does not hit the magnet on auto plunge, so if you want it mid-ball you can manual plunge before auto hits.
2. I never had the problem with manual plunge. I guess you need to allign the shooter rod. Also just don't plunge so hard, it's never needed.
For the ball search, next time you notice it doesn't register, step around and see if the ball is at the top of the trough. Mine will get stuck there if the machine is not leveled. A tap usually gets it to roll down though.
Quoted from purbeast:Is the GI lighting in GZ the cool temp lighting?
I thought I remember reading Stern typically does cool, and that my JP was the outlier being warm temp.
I want to get a couple spot lights and just want to be sure I get the right temp to match the GI.
It's cool but the playfield has so much red or yellow I think warm would have been better. I just ordered replacement bulbs for all the GI and spotlights inspired by a guy on the mod thread. (Just search thread for "warm" to see pics. )
Quoted from Hayfarmer:[quoted image]
man this is really great with your Hedorah. I want to try the green dome, but just played a PBL order yesterday 
Quoted from PanzerKraken:So is there a good write up/guide that's up to date on the game rules and such?
for rules:
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/godzilla-0_93_0-README_LE.txt
for strategy:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-score-a-billion-on-godzilla-and-more
watch the videos/read the thread.
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Just joined the club today with my NIB Godzilla Premium. Now that I’ve got it set up and ready to play, I’m looking to start adding some tasteful mods, art blades, etc. I’d love suggestions of the must have mods and best looking art blades to get me started.
Thanks
The stern art blades are the best, done by the guy that did the rest of the artwork..the wizard blades are copying and pasting the playfield artwork. Some people prefer mirror blades.
For mods, check the mod thread. Look through all the images (can just go through images at top of page)
Quoted from Rhayven44:My new game is having problems with Switch 28 on the left spinner. Doesn't activate, even when I press down on the contact. I'm thinking it is a bad microswitch. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I can access it from under the playfield. Do I have to disassemble the whole platform above it on the left to get to it? Thought I'd ask before I blow a day doing it...Thanks!
Open circuit under playfield would be more likely than a bad switch. Did you check the connectivity underneath?
Also looks like that switch is attached to the gate which is attached to the ball guide with 2 screws? Could get it out without disassembling anything it so. But I'd definitely check loose connections first.
Quoted from Rhayven44:Inline connector, which is easy to get to. Let me disconnect that and use the ohm meter on the end attached to the switch.
while you're at it, short the connector to the node board, and make sure it registers during a switch test
Quoted from Jerickso77:When the ball comes down behind the saucer it usually hits the top of the right sling. Is that normal or do I have it too steep?
if I hit the right spinner (usually when trying to hit the scoop, I'm that bad) the ball goes down the tail whip path, and gently bounces over to the left flipper somehow which is very convenient, Can get it back under control 90% of the time.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:In two consecutive Monster Zeros I had a perfect reverse building SJP shot not register. Anyone else having this happen? It's not the case that the shot never registers since wallops happened outside of MZ during the games.
You only get to use Godzilla wallop once per mode to spot a shot. And intentionally or not some don't count. I saw a comment by kme on the tilt rulesheet thread I think where someone pointed out one such instance and he said it would be fixed.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:So I get the callout to hold action to charge the heat ray. Not sure how this works and holding the button doesn't seem to do anything? Is there an indicator or something I'm having to watch? Feel like i'm missing something simple.
If the button is flashing, its available. The only other time the button lights up is for angarius add-a-ball (if you have both, hold for heat ray, press for add-a-ball).
The 1-2-3 are lit on the playfield and heat ray is flashing. When you hold it down you'll see a progress bar with percentage on the screen. Have to hold it down for a while. I use my belly, i dunno about you guys.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:It would be an incredible oversight if the game is intentionally not registering the SJP shot in Monster Zero when the game is telling the player to shoot the SJP shot. Hard to believe this is what's happening (though I suppose anything's possible).
Oh... that is the shot, right. (i've never gotten that far in monster zero). Sorry i thought you were saying you were trying to do the wallop to collect a different shot
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Am I weird that i use my hand for the heat ray? lol.
I do 1 of a few things, just trap up, hold down button.
If in multiball, and trap up on both flippers, I am able to hold the flipper buttons and use my elbow while still holding the flippers.
Shoot a ramp, hold the button with your 1 hand, keep the other hand on the flipper of the return lane for that ramp and you can combo the ramp if the hear ray hasn't completed by the time the ball hits the inlane, but the first heat ray at least can complete before ball comes to the inlane.
A lot of times I'm using it in Multiball. For me (6'0, 190lb, not like I have that big a gut!) I just lean onto the machine it's pretty ergonomic.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:to the tip and it usually will just go right to the mecha spinners or it just hits the UFO area and bounces right back. It seems like such a hard shot for me yet everyone makes it look so easy, I suck soooo bad
I am less than 10% for sure. Actually my most successful with both the left ramp and the scoop is doing right ramp, left ramp, scoop combo. Something about the speed of those ramps and the flow makes me hit the shots a lot better. And of course it's a great practical combo to master anyway, so maybe practice that instead of always trying from trap.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:Is it just me or have others experienced a lot of balls jumping over the flippers or over the inlane plastics. I don't mind the air balls that end up in the shooter Lane but just feel cheated when they hop the flippers. Seems to happen at least once every 20 or 30 games. It's not just the chaos during multiple that does it as I've seen it happen from an odd bounce off the slings during single ball play. I've been playing pinball for 35 years and can count on two hands the number of times that's happened on other machines, I've lost count on Godzilla.
in about 800 games i've had a few times the ball jump over to an outlane. I'm putting in precision flip flippers and perfectplay rubbers on today, will be interesting to see if that changes it at all, but i suppose i might not know for a while!
Now that home team is a thing, I don't think I'll ever really need the scanner..people coming over to my house to play aren't gonna give a shit about insider connected..
I wish there were more options for apron covers..I know wizardmods had one, but it still has those unnecessary triangles, and also I don't think every piece of artwork needs to be full of Kaiju...cabinet, back box, art blades, playfield... Don't need the same dudes again on apron...maybe some buildings. Or xiliens, I dunno.
Would just love a clean, full cover piece of art for the apron with something not completely redundant
Quoted from ExSquid:The right wire form going to the right flipper, the ball "bounces" back when it hits the end then comes back and drops down. Like it hits the end of it and bounces back about an inch then slowly comes back and drops down. Unlike the left one which just drops right down no matter how fast the ball is going like every other game I have......smh. Any ideas?
Man... Mine didn't do this, and then I took that wireform off last night to put in some new rubbers, and now it does it! I'll let you know if I can figure it out. It's annoying for sure.
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Ok yeah they did seem a little more bouncy too. When the ball comes out of the scoop it hits the left flipper and that thing does bounce around a little more than the would have guessed. I did put in an order for the Precision flip system. But glad to hear in not crazy lol
For this you should turn down your scoop vuk power. Turn it down to the point where it will dead bounce off left flipper and rolls up right inlane far enough to hit the switch. I like think that's how the designer intended it 
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:In the US. "Mil" is definitely slang for mm (in the UK and Australia at least)
And unfortunately since Americans(and Americans invented the internet, so by extension the internet) have the convention of "mil" being a thousandth of an inch, we have no convenient slang for a thousandth of a meter, gram, or liter. So we have to say millimeters. or milliliters. or milligrams. Words we use all the time, because mil is reserved for a unit of measurement no one outside of very specific professions ever use.
It's quite tragic. Those are awful words.
Quoted from ExSquid:Buddy of mine came by yesterday and adjusted the shooter rod so it was straight and everything was perfectly lined up but I'm still getting messy launches manually and with the auto launch. We just don't know what else to do. We adjusted the power to the auto launch to everything we could think of, it either hits the magnet and goes straight down the middle or it just kind of bounces around and either doesn't make it around the initial "loop" and comes back down into the right inlane? or it makes it is just slow and messy. Sorry I don't know how else to explain it. Extremely frustrating.
Hitting the magnet is basically the expected behavior on "full plunge". and its quite useful. If your auto plunge does this a lot, turn the power down a little bit. It shouldn't STDM here. Make sure your playfield is level, maybe tweak your incline some. That bit doesn't have anything to do with your plunger.
as far as the rattling plunge that doesn't make it around. that happens to me some times. Makes me think this is why he put 3 relatively low-skill "skill shots" right there... so that you don't get too mad at him when it happens.
Quoted from ExSquid:I'm trying to get it " close enough" so as to not have a rattling ball coming out of the initial launch. Running out of ideas. I can deal with everything else. Last night I played and it auto launched the ball to the right and the ball got stuck under mechas arm.
I have all legs the lowest they can go right now. That seems to be the point the ball least has problems. Who knows.
Getting stuck under mecha arm... Hits magnet on auto plunge. Both signs your auto plunge power is too high..you say you're running out of ideas but I've suggested that already. Did you try it? I used to get ball stuck there all the time until I turned plunge power down.
You should also check for left/right leveling with a level, and measure your playfield incline. I seriously doubt all leg levelers being at the same position is perfect for your playfield. It's possible, just unlikely. (Again recommended this already)
And did you have a chance to take a video or pics?
If you come here for help man at least try the suggestions and post the requested info!
Quoted from Apex:Just to confirm, you are supposed to be able to stage flip the upper flipper correct?
yeah, you can see the leaf switch inside the cabinet and diagnose any issue with it. should be really easy to see what its doing once you push up the playfield and look at it.
Quoted from Apollo18:Could someone please recommend Premium/LE bridge mod options?
Thanks.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-premium-le-train-bridge-mod
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1029-chrome-candy/06937-godzilla-prem-le-suspension-bridge
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1029-chrome-candy/05780-godzilla-prem-le-truss-bridge
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/the-art-of-pinball/stern-pinball-godzilla/stern-pinball-godzilla-bridge-sculpt-by-the-art-of-pinball/
In general "mod for X", just look at the photo gallery in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread
Quoted from tedwasright:Can anyone tell me WHERE I can find settings to reduce power for auto plunge, etc. I looked and can't find them in game settings or standard. Maybe I'm crazy?
It's with the settings for all the other coils in game specific adjustments. Go backwards, it's closer to the end .
Quoted from wtatumjr:I'm not familiar with that tester but it appears you need to set meter to DC, not AC.
When measuring voltage (which is what I think he's attempting to do) yes need correct DC or AC setting....current/resistance/continuity, ac/DC doesn't matter.
OP you have if on ampmeter not voltmeter....amp meter requires measuring in series. You want to measure volts anyway, I think is what you're trying to do.
Quoted from smokinhos:Glad u asked.. not sure whats up with them recently either. I dont love the look of them. Seem out of place, but I guess they are good?
You can do a very large number of color combinations with the anodization + rubber color... but
Quoted from chuckwurt:Drop catches and live catches are extremely difficult with them. The timing is completely different and the margin for error seems to be non existent.
I'm trying to figure out a way to be happy with them. I like the snappiness of the shots, but I'm having a terrible time actually getting to the point of making shots as I can't get the damn ball under control. Part of it is I swapped the flipper rubber. First to PerfectPlay silicone. That sucked, bouncy as hell. Then to some red rubber. Still tricky.
One of the advertised features is being able to adjust the flipper angle, but it's actually a lot harder to get the ball trapped if you lower the angle much at all.
still have some experimentation to do. But aesthetically, they are great. they are also obviously very well made and they can really wack the ball around...
Quoted from chuckwurt:Care to post a video of drop catching out of the scoop or live catching after a left flipper shot through the center spinner? Those are my go to moves on this that immediately became harder once I changed these flippers. Maybe the low bounce rubbers are the ticket.
You buy them and let me know so I don't waste $5.50 on shipping =). The unfortunate thing is that I was going to order these, but since all their other silicone rubbers are so much more expensive I decided to go with pinball life.
Quoted from JayLar:Anyone contemplating Comet pinball's warm white leds and can't decide on clear vs frosted. It's quite a big difference. See pictures below where left slingshot is clear and right frosted.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Which do you prefer? From the photo, brightness is similar, but the frosted seems much warmer. I just did the warmer on mine and am pretty happy with it.
One thing I recommend is picking up these, to replace the metal washers under those slingshot plastics. just next time you're placing an order from one of these vendors (makes a huge difference imo)
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134
Quoted from Tomass:When did they change the plastic under the bridge? I see mine does not go over the magna grab like some that I see.
[quoted image]
Quoted from Nokoro:You’ll see this printed, but you should do it right away. Even with the shortened plastic under the bridge, the bridge action will still chip away at the edge of the plastic. Putting a washer in the coil sleeve limits the motion just enough to save the plastic. There’s a good video in this thread somewhere. I just wanted to alert you not to wait as damage is happening without you realizing.
Other than that, enjoy!
I can see this one is already damaged a bit..if you don't wanna put the washer fix in right now then at least, before you play any more, pull the glass and stick some piece of rubber there where it's taking damage. That will keep it from getting more messed up
Quoted from TeaHaus:This has probably been mentioned but I haven't come across it.........just got my Pro this past Friday. It really is a blast. On my 2nd game, after hitting both ramps and hitting the scoop, suddenly on the screen instead of Xilien on the screen, there was a goat.......just kind of sat there. Then the game moved on to let me choose which monster to battle. Was kind of strange and funny......I presume an homage to the greatest of all time....Elwin? Anyone else notice this or am I late to the party?
It's a configurable option even, I think default is 5% of raid start cinematics
Quoted from snaroff:Since Stern's cost is likely extremely low on this tiny bracket (like $.50?), it's unlikely cost cutting was their motivation. Hopefully they solved the problem in another way and simply didn't need the arcane tiny brackets to keep the PF stable. Less is more when it comes to parts/complexity (as long as PF stability isn't sacrificed, obviously).
Well, considering how you can still wiggle the playfields, I'd say it the problem is unsolved...
Usually when i put mine down, it is not perfectly centered. But its pretty easy to nudge over if i remember to do so.
Quoted from javagrind888:Not anymore. They are $20 everywhere.
Quoted from DudeRegular:I am getting this same thing on my new premium. Fast shots to the center spinner and sometimes to the loop will drain straight down the middle. The ball doesn't hug the ball guide on the left above the flipper when it happens. It is already moving towards the center of the playfield well before coming out of that lane.
My game is level side to side and currently at 6.8 degrees setup with a digital inclinometer.
Game level != Playfield level. Maybe you are talking about the playfield but just making sure..
Quoted from chuckwurt:I need to see a video of this. It’s literally impossible on the dozens of examples I’ve played. You’re shots must be CRAWLING around the loop. Or maybe they are getting held up by something back there and dropping it down to the flipper nice and clean each go like the rush loop?
Some times after a few clean loops I'll have one that rattles the start of the loop and that slows it down and kind of resets it. But still my max is 6.
But normally yeah the centrifugal force and my not perfect timing usually limits me to just a handful of loops
Quoted from PanzerKraken:How easy to do these mount? Mothra uses same screws as whats being used by the plastic? Glue on the larvae version?
IMO, best way to mount a mothra figure in place of the plastic is to put a small hole in the back and glue a paperclip in, and then attach the paperclip to the mounting screw from the original. you don't see the wire, screw or bulb from standing height, but here's a picture from down low so you can get an idea
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from Sarge:Dimples and orange peel are two different things. I am fine with dimples as long as there is enough clearcoat to protect the playfield. The problem is that the orange peel is a sign of insufficient or improper mixing of the clear, poor atomization of the spray pattern during application or bad record timing.
I'm afraid that the clearcoat is not going to hold up, especially since my shooter lane is chipping with 300 games on it...[quoted image][quoted image]
i have not seen many have the orange peel effect, you seem to have gotten unlucky im afraid. hopefully it will still hold up fine!
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:It didn't contain the final wizard mode. So if it's released in the current version, I assume it will be .99.
I thought King of the monsters was the final wizard mode?? Is there another unused insert?
Quoted from MaxIsDead:I went double green vein. I like it. But this game has lots of color options that work well.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Incredible. and quite unique. Nice machine!
Quoted from Lounge:You guys must really like toppers.
I mean.. what's a stern topper gonna be? $1000 (probably more) For some cheaply made acrylic thing? That hundreds of people will have?
Or, for slightly more (% wise) you can have this awesome hand made topper which seems super unique as far as pinball toppers go, that is much more uncommon.
price seems crazy in a vacuum, but Stern prices are crazier imo.
Quoted from Bangback:Here is one more picture of the Skill Shot MRS installed, from a players perspective. I’m about 5’ 9” and this is what it looks like playing the game:
[quoted image]
I have clear view of the insert underneath, in case people were wondering.
It's a bit unfortunate that it's black. As very few other things in this machine are black. Would be great if you could also tell us the price in the thread so that not everyone has to PM you.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:There are 2 major mechs in the Premium not see in the Pro - the building that moves up and down for Godzilla multiball, and the Mechagodzilla turning platform thing with the spinner on it. I played the Premium for several hours at TPF and really really enjoyed the game. Then I played a Pro for 1or 2 games right as I was leaving, and I found I didn't really notice the difference too drastically. Eventually when it came time to buy one, I just couldn't make myself pay the difference. Those 2 features do change gameplay, but I can't say I mind in the slightest. For some games like Iron Maiden, I knew I had to get a Premium - this one, with all the mods available - I was happy to stick with the Pro.
Don't forget the collapsible bridge. it doesn't have a huge impact on gameplay, but from a "cool toys" perspective it is pretty cool.
Are there other games with 3 major mechs between pro and premium? Kind of thought the pro/prem gap was bigger in GZ than most games
Quoted from purbeast:The 3 clear parts so it will look like it's "floating" after it's installed. It's the body, skirt, and base. It does kinda suck that shipping costs more than those 3 parts lol.
I mean for how much he charges for those parts, let the man have a few dollars for his time!
Quoted from atg1469:Does this apply to when installing a bridge replacement mod or for some other type of repair? Just wondering if I’ll run into this when LIORS bridge mod ever decides to show up…
You do have to completely disassemble the bridge mech to replace the plastics. And it is quite a pain getting to some of those screws in the back to get it apart and back together. If you haven't already, great time to add washer to the coil mech if your bridge hits the plastic below.
Quoted from ChipScott:Question for those who have installed Stumblor's (Davey's) scoop sign.
Got it installed and it looks amazing and everything works perfectly fine.
Question is: there's an additional wire that can be used to link into the GI such that when GI goes off, the sign also goes off (or dims?, not sure). Anyway, sounds like this is an additional feature that can be implemented on this mod and I'm wondering if anyone has done this yet and if they prefer it to the sign being on all the time (or vice versa).
You can certainly do this, your mod should have come with a bulb socket adapter that is meant to go onto a GI bulb on the back, run a wire to the back of the sign. Then in the GUi for configuring the sign, you can enable this feature. It should be in the instructions. If not ask Davey.. I like this feature a lot.
Quoted from troon47:I got this also....diverts balls to the left flipper...no more STDM like I was getting every time.
If they were going sdtm probably check your playfield level even if you've inst
Quoted from purbeast:Had a ball get stuck in the building last night as it was moving after I qualified for Monster Zero. It came out of the scoop after I selected that powerup directly to my left flipper as I shot it up into the building and it got stuck since the building was moving and the building stopped moving mid-level. After ball search happened and all the coils fired, the building moved up and the ball came out.
There's a reason the balls drain STDM after godzilla multiball is activated and the building is moving. Elwin himself even stated that, in this thread. But to each their own.
That may be the intent but out of 1000 games played I have had very very few GZ multiball with triple drain. Usually I can save all 3 if the game is properly leveled. At least two.. and even rarer in those 1000 games had it caused any weird issue..
The fact of the matter is that you get more ball save time if you don't triple drain, and it feels "less bad" especially for casual people who don't know who designed the game and don't give a shit what they intended, or why. They just are trying to keep the ball from draining
I will say properly leveled games don't need a mod to prevent it. But I completely understand anyone that wants to install one
Quoted from jackd104:I heard him say in this interview that the balls should hit the tip of left flipper if you hold it up when the balls drop down. He has also said level the game left-to-right putting your level in front of the building. I have done this very carefully with a digital level and my game behaves exactly like this. If I hold the left flipper up, most of the time no balls drain. Rarely one ball drains. Never seen 2 or more drain.
Start at time 35:05
Exactly. Usually for me the first ball hits tip of left flipper, and that knocks the others away from drain
Quoted from BFaster:Get a leaf switch adjustment tool and have at it. Google "how to use" it and go slow. SMALL adjustments.
[quoted image]
Is this really necessary? I just pulled on my leaf a little and good to go
Quoted from avspin:Ball trap on mecha, any suggestions to prevent?
[quoted image]
Autoplunge did it, yes? Turn the auto plunge power down. I prefer it to auto plunge just below the bridge switch, that way if I want it to hit the bridge switch, I can override manual plunge.
Quoted from BobC:Just out of curiosity has anybody really had the need to install the
building air ball protector that's sold?
I haven't really noticed any air balls
Haven't got a lot of play time in, and have been distracted by other issues like a bad ramp I just got a replacement for under warranty
Just trying to figure out if it's something I'll need on my premium
Thanks!
BobC
the building is made of steel and is made to be beat up by the ball. i've never seen a protector sold for it and it definitely doesn't need one.
1 week later
Quoted from jkashani:Best mod to replace the Mechagodzilla plastics? Pics if you have them.
a day late but here's a second option since i only saw one recommendation
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1363-cheko-s-shop/05858-mechagodzilla-shield-spinner-mod-for-prem-le
He's got better pics there of the mod but also showing it in my machine. i put a little paint on the MGZ and spinner platform to liven it up a bit.
Same guy makes that UFO mod. both are great.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from brian36chambers:Hi All, I am new to pinball ownership and I am expecting a Godzilla premium sometime this month. I have been reading a ton on this forum but with so much info it is hard to get a feel for what things I should do to my machine. Can you recommend the best things I should do to modify this machine to get the best experience with it? I am looking to make this my own and love projects. Please add purchase links if available. Thanks for your help in advance.
The common issues come up almost every page of this thread. You should read at least the last 10 pages or so. Just play the game for a while. If anything doesn't seem right, search this thread. For aesthetic mods, there's a separate thread. Look at the image gallery, the whole thing. See what speaks to you.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:So when is the saucer shots actually counted? I'm still confused of what light means what on saucers cause it's constantly changing, flashing, and so on. At first I though green meant the shots were counting for the adding up saucers destroyed, but then there's yellow, flashing, and so on... so what is the actual indicator that I should be attacking that saucer and going for those extra balls
For every saucer you destroy on the same ball (or is it just for every saucer?) the point multiplier increases and the time you have to destroy the saucer goes down:
Blue (1X) - lights for 10 seconds
Green (2X) - lights for 8 seconds
Yellow (3X) - lights for 6 seconds
Orange (4X) - lights for 5 seconds
Red (5X) - lights for 4 seconds
Quoted from rob3:Yeah. It’s a must imo, get the $5 magnet shield if go have pinwoofers and you get the lower mecha switch.
I think you want to do both at the same time if you are above 500 to 1000 plays. Seems to take some time for you to get good enough to realize you need it or machine wear. Not sure which one.
I considered getting these buy for $76 no thanks. 1250 plays. The lower mecha switch has never not registered for me and the upper flipper switch I have come to live with. If you want the skill shot, you've got to hit it well enough to either trigger the switch or the bottom spinner. And if you miss you can still try for several skillshots using the flippers, including that one. It's never failed to register an imposter for me, due to the angle the ball comes from (even if it his the switch and doesn't go through that lane).
1 week later
Quoted from arrbee:I am prepared to upgrade speakers, but a little annoyed that I would need to upgrade amp too. Although I do suspect it is amp clipping that I am hearing.
What amp did you install?
You certainly do not need to upgrade the amp to get decent sound. You should be able to find the diy sound thread on pinside. That guy has done tons of testing, and you'll find a wealth of info. I put in the kicker CS4s and JBL810 and its great.
You'll also find info on the 4 ohm and 8ohm setting. Tldr the setting is a bit misleading and you should just experiment And see what sounds best for you. Totally ok to mix setting and speakers
Quoted from djsolzs:Are the CS4s plug and play or do you need a bracket?
it will bolt to existing screw holes, I wouldn't call it plug and play because you'll want to unsolder the molex connector from your factory speakers and solder it onto your new speakers (at least i feel that's the simplest/best thing to do)
Quoted from JakeFAttie:I know the premium is more popular, but reading this thread it just seems those cool toys (the bridge and the building) cause more problems then they are worth. Personally I prefer the uncluttered playfield of the pro, and the peace-of-mind of less moving parts. And the cost of course. Counterarguments? Do those toys really change the gameplay that much?
It's discussed ad nauseum, no need to ask the questions again just scroll up or search. If your take away is "more trouble than it's worth" then you're in the minority. There's a reason prem out sells pro probably 4 to 1 and why the spread on the pinside rating is so large (larger than any other recent game).
If with those facts you still think the pro is for you, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:Is there any idea when STERN will make more Pro GZ's?
There's not a big back log. So maybe a few months into 2023
Quoted from Geeterman1:Stupid/newb question: is there a way to turn on sound during attract mode?
there's dj mode, where it will just play whatever in game music you want. you can not set it up to automatically go into that mode after playing though
Quoted from JakeFAttie:ok so.... what's the Wallop shot then?
Aka "reverse building sbot" from left side. During a mode it spots you a shot(Godzilla wallup). Outside of mode a brief ball save (minilla wallup).
And slight correction on tail whip: it's just the shot past mecha. When you do the inner loop first, it's called a "super tail whip" and most games I hit that more than scoop 
1 week later
Quoted from Lounge:It’s designed to drain so the building has time to change levels. And there’s a ball save timer going.
I don’t understand why everyone keeps freaking out about this.
because it feels bad. its confusing to new players and it eats ball save time .
I've played over 1000 games and have had no real issues with the balls hitting or going into the building while its moving. Ball gets back on top sometimes, but ball search finds it.
Plus, on most machines, it doesn't even reliably SDTM all 3 balls, so what's the point?
We understand what the intent was. But we can still say that it's bad game design, and it doesn't actually serve much of a purpose because A. balls dont always drain and B. the thing you were trying to design around in the first place is a non issue.
Quoted from Animal:Has anyone experienced play field damage at the mouth of the building? Ive put maybe 15 games on my machine and there is a chip right in the middle. Looks like I have to lay some mylar down. If anyone does up a graphic mylar to hid this area, Im in.
Is there a cliffy for this area?
Dang sorry to hear that. Mines over 1000 games with no wear there yet. I haven't heard of it either. is the floor of the building aligned with the playfield? There are options to adjust that. Make not of how the building sits in the starting position, and in the "ball lock" position and see if you can understand why its being damaged.
I just printed my ABE FLIPS SHOOTER LANE FIX.
It's great! I did a bunch of plunges immediately before with glass off, and immediately after. I had a fair number of rattley plunges before, and none after.
It's a super easy thing to make with a 3d printer. Just download any cuboid, and modify the dimensions in your slicer.
My final version is 360mm x 10mm x 1mm. 250mm or maybe even less is fine too, if you have a smaller printer. No issues with it not coming all the way down the lane (I tested the 250). The 1mm allows for VHB tape to secure it. If your using a very thin adhesive, 1.5mm is a good thickness, at least for my machine. If you want to be fancy. cut the far end at 45 degrees with a knife to match the ball guide. If someone wants to make one that also widens at the shooter end to follow ball guide there, even better. But a simple rectangle works.
I used a black PLA that has some speckles in it to blend better with the rail. a textured build surface would be good too.
edit: here's a thingiverse link if it helps anyone. if anyone makes something more sophisticated than a cuboid I'll happily point this page to your design
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5589060
Little homage to ABE_FLIPS that you can only see in the right light.
PXL_20221026_204606564 (resized).jpgPXL_20221026_204649374 (resized).jpgPXL_20221026_205023673 (resized).jpgPXL_20221026_205028839 (resized).jpg
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:From your images I was wondering if the ball can gets stuck a littlebit right at the beginning, since the plastic doesn't touch the kickout metal protector.
But you said it works, so thats great! Also thanks for sharing the file. LOL at the ABE FLIPS letters there hehehe
Even with a much shorter piece with a bigger gap, I didn't see any issue..I think if your ball is riding the wall that early in the lane then you really do need to fix something with the plunger.
Quoted from jid:I’ve read all 322 pages of this thread and I completely missed a link to ABE_FLIPS shooter guide fix for download. Is it available anywhere? Looks like an awesome fix!
I see you have a 3d printer. Try this out. you can customize the dimensions in your slicer easily if you wish.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5589060
Quoted from TazDevl:Sorokyl: this matches the pin quite well, can you share a link of the PLA you used?
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/products/empire-strikes-metallic-black-htpla
Quoted from WolfWeb:What do people that are more experienced with stern machines think of all of this? Including getting an older version node board (one in machine was e, the one I got was b. and a used coil?)
I think its cool your distributor was responsive, had that stuff on hand and could get you back running without you having to wait a long time without being able to play your new game.
I wouldn't worry about board revision unless you are aware of some difference or your game is not playing correctly.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:For those who are interested in the dimensions, here is another version you can try:
thickness = 0.7 inch
[quoted image]
Haha this is so close, but the angled part at the far tip needs to be the other way, to match the guide!!
Quoted from Malconstant:Hi all! I just received my Godzilla Premium yesterday and this piece came off the playfield while playing. Unfortunately, I have no idea where it came from - does anyone know where I should look? My wife was playing this so I didn't see where the piece came off initially.
[quoted image][quoted image]
One place spacers like that are used are the spinning platform in front of mecha Godzilla, below the upper plastic
Quoted from greenmonk:So my Premium just got delivered on Thursday. I know with the older games (is 1 year considered old?!), the plastic under the bridge would often break, but they’ve since changed it. Well…I only have 30 plays on my new Godzilla and the bridge is already causing a crack in the plastic there. Has anyone else had this problem with their new machine. I seem to love bridge attacks, but don’t love cracking plastic pieces. Is there anything I can adjust to keep the bridge from hitting the plastic piece?
And I’ve already talked to my distributor. I’m just curious if anyone else has experienced this with the redesigned plastic piece.
[quoted image]
Quoted from beltking:Buy the metal one off pinside shops. It’s awesome. Did that right away.
I assume the sound of the bridge crashing into the metal isn't that pleasant though? That seems like more of an aesthetic mod if your into that look.
The right fix for the bridge is to put a washer or two in the coil to limit the travel, im sure if you search "washer" in this thread you'll find it.
Temporary fix until you feel like doing that is a cabinet door bumper or any little piece of rubber taped down
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:I wonder if there is anyway to guess the Numbers of Godzilla Pros and Premiums Stern has cranked out.
6000+
1200+
How many can the crank out a month?
Stern can make 500 machines on a good week.
The best way for us to guess how many they made though is by looking at how many people have the game in their collection on pinside, and comparing to machines that have a known quantity (LE machines, and B/W machines). It's not science at all, but it's the best thing I could think of.
I did that here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/estimating-stern-production-numbers-based-on-pinside-collections-
Note that in just 3 months, the number of GZ prem owners has doubled. Impressive.
Godzilla is a game where there are more premiums than pros. Zach Meny has said on his podcast that was true, and this thread also suggests it, and the pinside owners count suggests it. This is opposite of most games. I'm going to just throw a number out and say 30% of machines are accurately reflected on pinside:
GZ Prem: 1149/0.3 = 3830 machines out there
GZ Pro: 521 / 0.3 = 1736 machines out there
Deadpool for compariosn (see how pro/prem flip)
DP Prem: 493 / 0.3 = 1643 machines out there
DP Pro: 808 / 0.3 = 2693 machines out there.
Gonna give myself an error margin of +/- 50%.
In production time, Thats 5566 /500 = 11 good weeks of pure godzilla production. Which sounds about right to me.
If accurate, they've already passed LOTR's original run, but they'd have to keep that pace for 3 more years to reach Addams Family levels....
If at least the pinside owners / total machines % is close to other recent games, this is already (or close to) the most produced game for Stern Pinball.
Quoted from newpinbin:Why is the playfield out?
easier to get it up the stairs in pieces. don't want to try to use a dolly on brand new wooden stairs. Only took a couple of minutes to disconnect the playfield and head, I actually transported it that way too, though I don't recommend it. it's not stable standing on the building frame. I ended up using ratchet straps and supports.
3 months later
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Having trouble with destruction shot, when the ball drops to flipper, it barely hits the tip. Used to hit bottom 1/3d. I'm biased to the left now so far, I can't cradle on the right flip. I remember earlier discussion on how loose or tight the magnet should be, mine is very loose spinning wise, but tight up and down. Ant thoughts on how to get the ball to pull further up on the left side of the magnet? Thx
Magnet should be able to spin. Did you try messing with these settings? Also make sure balls aren't magnetized.
- adding "GODZILLA MAGNET PULSE DRAW TIME FAST" adjustment for the amount of time to pulse the magnet when the ball is moving fast (between 0.20s and 0.75s blended between fast and slow adjustments)
- adding "GODZILLA MAGNET PULSE DRAW TIME SLOW" adjustment for the amount of time to pulse the magnet when the ball is moving slow (between 0.20s and 0.75s blended between fast and slow adjustments)
1 week later
Quoted from tedwasright:Trying again.
Does anyone know what gauge wire is used going from the board IN the pop? It's three colors. Just looking for the gage.
It doesn't hurt to use slightly larger gauge wire..just eyeball it
Quoted from rvdv:Joined the club also after 2 years
First replaced stern balls
Then few games in ball keeps getting stuck here
Anyone made a cool mod for preventing this ?[quoted image][quoted image]
hey before you listen to any of the other people and start bending or gluing shit, turn your auto plunger power down.
I had ball stick here when I first got it. But after adjusting the auto plunge power down, it hasn't happened in 1500 games.
Quoted from gandamack:Installed a fan where the coinbox usually sits. That ac adapter in the backbox is sure handy. Hopefully, this will keep the temps down inside the cabinet.
Did you drill a hole in the cabinet? Otherwise, you're not reducing the temp of the cabinet overall.
The only thing that really needs cooling is flipper coils. You can zip ties some fans to them (or pay a lot more money for pin monks more elegant solution). You can find a thread for the diy solution here, and pin monks stuff in the market.
A fan sitting down at the bottom of the cabinet won't do much for the coil temps.
Quoted from Driz1847:Got my premium unboxed today and have a couple questions.
1. There is a post behind the upper flipper that does not have a hex screw attached. Is this normal or is something missing?
2. Behind Mecha Godzilla on the plastic is a black plastic wire holder with nothing attached. Why is it there?
3. Flippers seem very strong. Scoop eject is also strong. Should I decrease their power?
I lowered the trough eject to 160, I will keep adjusting that one down for sure. No major issues so far, the game is fast.
Happy to finally be here.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
the post and the wire holder are there to prevent stuck balls. for these and other weird things you can compare your pics to the pinside gallery to see if it looks normal.
can lower the flippers if you want, make sure you can still get it up the ramps even once the coils warm up. You'll be able to get away with lower power if you cool them probably.
scoop eject, you can tweak for gameplay. mine will bounce off left flipper, roll up right inlane and barely hit that rollover which advances jets. If you think that's too easy, you can turn it down a bit lower.
Quoted from RussMyers:I am thinking of replacing the Red GI bulbs with Flame LEDs from Comet.
Anyone do this yet?
Any idea as to how many I need? Counted maybe 12?
RussM
I think that would be too much. Those flame LEDs flicker at a high frequency and you don't want your gi doing that.
I can recommend replacing the cool white gi with warm white. That really improves the feel
Quoted from RussMyers:Not a bad idea.
I fiddle with it all, maybe try warm white in the GI as well; lots of blues and green on playfield so don't know.
Fun to experiment though
RM
Check out my posts with images in gz mod thread to get an idea on warm white
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?
Just get the Stern ones. Original zombie yeti art instead of photoshopped from the playfield/cabinet (redundant). And they are bullet proof.
Quoted from mjmpin:Another minor annoyance I was working on today - once in a while (I'm certain others have experienced) when I shoot the ball through the right spinner it bounces up and gets stuck between mecha's arm and the side wall, no releasing it until you take the glass off, ugh. I was carefully trying to bend mecha's arm in slightly, but the plastic memory tends to eventually bring it back. Putting a silicone dot on the wall doesn't help, any other suggestions or ways to keep his arm bent in a bit?
thanks!
Mine sometime bounces into the wireform, but never had it bounce like that. Maybe turn your flipper strength down a bit?
Quoted from acedanger:You probably can repair with soldering iron... just wear a mask & carefully weld/fuse the plastic together with a little bit of heat.
definitely do not do this. the plastic will deform before it gets hot enough to bond. You'll ruin it.
Just use superglue... for a bit more stability you could also superglue a small splint on the back where you can't see.
Quoted from acedanger:I've been 3d printing for years & building props. Super glue/activator doesn't hold long term. Trust me yes it will deform slightly but go slow & weld it use at a low temp. It will never break in that spot again. If you are worried about it looking bad you can use some bondo with acetone & brush over then sand/paint. I'm pretty sure that I know what I'm talking about . Trust me there's not enough surface area to apply superglue the plastic will just crack apart a splint will work but IMO welding is the most effective repair.
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Those are really cool. Here's my e-peen:
Anyway. He will probably ruin it with a soldering iron. super glue will work fine. He literally just needs one piece to sit on top of another piece until it gets smashed by a ball and breaks again (Sure, maybe it won't break in your weld spot again but it will break at one of the other 1000ish layer laminations.)
Fun fact: the arms of the tower are glued on by the mod maker.
Second fun fact: intentionally broke mine as soon as I got it so I could rotate it 90 degrees (dont like how one is not facing same way as others). Guess how I reattached it? 1500+ games later and it's still perfectly fine.
Quoted from Killermarmot:Well it happened to me too ~350 games in. Sorry if asked before but where can I get a replacement, do I have to order from Stern? And how can I prevent this from happening again?
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Tons of threads here. You can get an OEM replacement from stern, a metal one from chromecandy.
The best "fix" to prevent it is putting a washer or two in the coil for the mech. It's kind of a pain in the ass to do though. There's photos and videos here i'd search for "washer" maybe.
Check key posts first.
Quoted from Puffdanny:I wasn't having luck with the superglue I had on hand. I would recommend a quick setting kind if you go that route. I went with a clear zip tie and you can't notice it from player perspective unless you focus in on it and the just barely,you could always paint it grey if it bothers you.
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A lot of people misunderstand super glue. It doesn't stick until it starts to dry. So If you use too much, you'll have to hold it together for a lot longer. A very thin layer on both sides being adhered works best.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Any input into Pinstadium? Is the 699 kit worth it over the 399 kit?
Godzilla definitely needs more light.
I don't hear people say that too often. Are you playing in the dark? A little ambient light helps but I think pinstadium may ruin some of the light shows. There's red gi and white gi throughout the machines and there's moments when only one, the other, or both will turn off or flash. Godzilla multiball being the most common one.
Quoted from RussMyers:Does anyone offer a 3D model file of the maser cannon?
Thanks,
RussM
mod makers don't usually sell their files. at least from what i've seen.
But i think the 3DP maser I've seen sold, and probably any you could make, would not be the right scale. The good thing about the Godzilla IP is there are so many toys out there, you don't really need to resort to 3d printed mods.
Maser cannons are not as common, and a little expensive as far as godzilla toys go, but IMO the Revoltech is the best option for the game. I integrated a spotlight into mine (replaced the spotlight that was in the same spot) and it turned out well I think.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from AMartin56:I've lit Monster Zero like three or four times now...
I swear I can't hit the building to save my life when it's lit. I've only successfully started it once LOL.
Is it just me? I'm decent with the same shot for Oxygen Destroyer but I guess the Monster Zero pressure gets to me.
every time i get to something new for the first time I choke.
technically the monster zero start is more like godzilla multiball because the building is down to expose the vuk path. If you have no problem locking balls for multiball, you are just psyching yourself out on monster zero.
Quoted from Zablon:There is a shit ton of mods for this game...holy crap.
There's a separate thread for mods that's bigger than most game threads..go over there and go through the gallery!
I think by the end of this year Davey will have sold more neon sign mods than stern has sold some of their less desirable games this year. Probably true for a couple of other mods as well!
Quoted from BW1029:Do most people keep the mesh sandwiched between their cab speaker when replacing? I read it can create vibration / issues so just took it out
If there are gonna be small kids/animals around your pin, I'd keep it. What I did was just put it on the outside of the cab instead of the inside. No extra parts needed and plenty of room for the speaker now.
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Hello, I know people’s thoughts on the value of mods can vary, but does anyone think the Stumblor Tokyo Neon sign mod is not worth $221 USD? Seems pricey for such a small item.
Most mods are light bulbs stuck inside 3d printed parts, and you tie it into a single playfiled insert/bulb (often with an alligator clip which is janky and prone to coming loose). $50-$150
The Neon sign has a custom PCB, custom software, 5 individually controllable light sections (multiple leds in each)... It's pretty nice and priced fairly compared to many similar / lower effort mods out there. That he's sold over 1200 of them suggest that he priced it well enough! And the new one has already sold 427 and he hasn't started making them yet... wow. Hope he has quit his day job already...
Quoted from flipright:Congrats! I have over 1k games on my premium and just broke 400 million the other day. I don't get why some games I can easily get over 100 million and others not over 50 million. I'm new to pinball and this is my first home pin so I'm hoping my shots and timing get better. Some days it's so frustrating when it feels like the ball just doesn't want to stay in play.
This is a great thread that has helped a lot of people get in the 1B club.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-score-a-billion-on-godzilla-and-more
On top of this I would just add, learn the rules of GZ and MGZ multiballs, so you are going for those super jackpots and not just flailing, they can be a big part of your first billion point game..
Quoted from GCS2000:The wife and I kinda decided we want out last spot to go to GZ Premium. We really like playing this game in the arcade and think it will be even better at home.
I am kinda overwhelmed at how this game just won't budge in price and if we want it we have to pony up for it.
I am even more overwhelmed at how many amazing mods there are for this game, not even sure where to start other than of course the Tokyo Neon Sign mod as that seems like a must have.
The other one that we really think is major important is the speaker lights with the city scape. The one we have been playing has this and I think its a superb addition and in truth should have come with the game. Please correct me if I am wrong is this the myth speaker light set up or is there another/better option (Speakerlights.com)?
Lots of reading to do on this thread for sure.
It's been on wait-list since it came out, but they have made a ton. They'll make it for years, assuming license permits. Will be the most produced Stern pin of all time? At least in last 20 years.
What will that due to the price in a few years? A lot of people who just rotate games will start to dump em..some people will keep it forever.
It may be a little cheaper later. But who knows when. I don't think it will rise in price after production line a GB, ST just because they are making so many.
Just go for it I think. Don't call one big dist and sit on waitlist like a sucker.. call around everywhere and find one.
Here's a prem at not-a-stupid price from Zach if anyone is in the area and looking for one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/155369
We were talking recently about the resale value of mods and I think this is a good example. The original owner probably put at least $1000 into this game, but if anything I'd say he might have decreased the value with some questionable mods (maybe all the original parts are included, doesn't say). the less popular tesla towers, the stainless MGZ spinner platform (vs the sculpted ones), the ramp decal, the controversal STDM fix, The less popular NECA godzilla (1964 vs 1956), basic lollypop rails, #DP maser cannon, green shooter rod. All of those are mods I listed that i personally would not have chosen for my machine (and i have a ton of mods on my machine). So don't buy mods with the hope of getting money back, and save your original parts! He probably could have gotten same trade in value without the mods, and sold the mods in a big bundle for a few hundred bucks at least to one of the many who love 3d printed stuff all over their machine
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Godzilla Premium is a great game. I'd bet you a nickel that you could get a used Godzilla for at or under $9,000 locally in the next 12 months. The most produced game since COVID is most likely Guns and Roses, with an MSRP of 11,000 currently going for $8500 on the seconday market. They made something like 5,000 of those. Once Stern has caught up with demand on Godzilla and a new buyer can walk into a distributor and pick one up MSRP, used pins tend to drop to about $500-$800 under MSRP. This held true right up to the start of COVID. Godzilla demand will be fulfilled eventually.
they made 1000 GZ LEs and 468 people have in collection on pinside.
Pinside shows 1722 GZ Prem and 585 Pro owners. At least 2775 machines accounted for on pinside. I say at least because I'm not sure how "collection" vs "locations you can play" overlap or are separate machines. unclear to me.
But I do believe this means they've already made at least 5k GZ machines.
Meanwhile, GNR has a total of 1355 pinside owners.
I know it's not an accurate way to measure, but assuming there's not some factor I don't understand it seems safe to say there are around 2X more godzilla than gnr in the world, and growing.
Quoted from Spiderpin:You have waited long enough.
PM me, I have Godzilla Premium, let's talk, it's cost nothing.
With that wording let me know how many DMs you get about that free godzilla pin!
Quoted from pinopinballmods:Hi everybody,
I know that there are already plenty of Godzilla figurines and you won't be short of choices. But I designed this mod based on the figurine proposed by NECA from the year 1956. It is rather faithful and has 30 points of articulation. You can position it as you wish. I added two small planes (F86 Saber Jet Fighter) with which Godzilla fights. Its assembly is very easy since we have also made a mount specifically so that it integrates as well as possible. Godzilla can also spit fire. You choose what you want to put in your pinball machine.
video :
You can order this mod here :
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/08288-godzilla-figurine-neca-1956
Have a nice day (Pino Pinball Mods)
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For anyone who already has the neca figure or some other GZ and wants to add F-86 to their it (or just elsewhere in their pins, here's a cheap file I found for mine:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-200-north-american-f-86-sabre
Very similar to the one in that mod but hopefully not the same (since these are private use license!)
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Zablon:Speaking of lube..there's a tube of lube in my goody bag. What's that for? This?
Yes. The leadscrew if needed. Don't use it it you don't have a reason to. Will just make more shit stick to it.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Makes no sense to me . We know runs are coming . I got one off the last run with no problem . 9499 NIB free shipping .
I think it's def possible to score one, but I'm impressed you got one for 9499.. that's usually the "I need to get rid of this" price. Selling gz that price... dealer doesn't like money I guess.
Quoted from Kneissl:Anyone have an educated guess at how many gz’s have been made? I’m thinking it has to be getting close to 10k just by the neon mod selling 1200, and pinside owners at 2800, these have to be a fraction of the actual total, if pinside is a third of actual we’re damn close.
closer to 5k, by taking the number of LEs that are reported in pinside collections and extrapolating out the prems/pros.
Pretty happy with that change. Honestly, after 1500 games. I just don't know if I was gonna make it to planet X much less KOTM. Scoop is hardest shot for me, left ramp second hardest. It's basically how many scoops can I hit before I drain.. on a good game that's 5-7 with 2-3 extra balls. (not counting accidental scoop shots giving me power ups and allies). I have never made it to a 4th city.
Quoted from jackd104:Planet X unlock - “early” is the default setting? That seems weird.
1.37% of IC users have the achievement. I guess they wanted to let more people experience it a year and a half after release. Similarly only 0.33% had started king of the monsters
is Monster Island Madness in the game? How to unlock? 0.0% of people have that one.
Quoted from daveyvandy:This code update is legit.
I never made it to planet x before and got there today on my first game with the new code.
Granted, I was playing well
I don't think you can travel to a new city after planet x though? I had two cities left. I was a bit confused on what to do next after I drained during the planet x multiball.
- Godzilla Powerup - when the "PLANET X UNLOCK" adjustment is set to "EARLY", completing at least the first Hurry Up in Planet X
will unlock a 2nd choice for Godzilla Powerup Level 8. The first choice is always lighting the mini-wizard
mode you didn't pick from Level 4. The second choice (if available) will be "Light King of the Monsters".
So if you didn't qualify KOTM during Planet X, only thing left to go for are the minis
Quoted from Skippy2904:Going to have to check this out as before the upgrade, the destroyer was disabled by either entering the building through the front, or by going through from the left side (cannot remember the proper term). The updated rules for Hard setting imply it is only diffused by a building entry then exit switch. Not the other way round.
Skippy2904
Well, maybe they consider it a mode and the wallup shot spots the front path?
Quoted from mcvetyty:Sounds like you may be missing the last step:
- Leave Tokyo and light "Select City" again
Are you doing that?
Quoted from mcvetyty:Correct.. You have to go to another city, and then you need to qualify Select City by hitting both ramps, and then once you hit the scoop after that you should have the option to do Planet X.
Quoted from KneeKickLou:I think in the second city you at least need to have done the tier 1 and 2 kaiju battles to move on to the 3rd city
Yeah, when it says "light 'Select City' again", it implies you qualify that light. Which means (on city 2 and beyond), doing a tier 1 and tier 2 Kaiju battle. Note that before you can select planet X, you'd have to also complete power/tanks/bridge at least once between those two cities. If you haven't you can stay in the 2nd city until you do (not forced out until you complete all of those in a city)
Quoted from tedwasright:That's a good point. But is it violating any law if they don't have the Stern logo on it? I don't know the answer. But I don't think so. But maybe, if they are selling a figure that is copyrighted, right? But if it's a mod like that illuminated sign (don't know what it's called, gets great reviews, etc.) would it be against copyright? I'm guessing no, but I am not a lawyer. Nevertheless I think that sign with the giant STERN logo on it would be. That seems clear.
Look, I'm not trying to hijack the thread with this. But I doubt I am the only one that feels this way.
Even without a stern logo, you can't sell shit with "Godzilla" on it without violating toho's copyright. This is true for every sign this guy makes, each one violates two copyrights. And many mods others make as well to be fair.
Also I hate how these makers(there's a few) are just formulaticly(?) making the same mods for every game without any attention to detail. Feels like this guy never spent 10 minutes playing the game.. it's the wrong era Godzilla, and the city scape, if it even is Japan (sorry don't recognize it) certainly doesn't match the 1950-1970s time period. I mean even Lior got this wrong with his new actions button mod.
Quoted from DirtyApe:Twice tonight a ball got stuck under mechagodzillas arm between it and the cabinet. I saw the heat gun recommendation earlier in the thread but does anybody have a mod to prevent the plunge from getting up there in the first place?
Can you tell us how its getting there? Only time it happened on mine was out of the box, auto plunge power was too high and could launch it up there. Since i turned it down, in 2000 games only time i've seen it is after letting a bunch of random kids at it. I assume they are full plunging and launched it up there.
Since there's no incentive to full plunge on GZ (and its pretty rare, kids are over all the time), just turn your auto-plunge down and see if that helps. I like to make sure it's not going to always give a free bridge/magna grab shot, that's too easy.
Quoted from RussMyers:Yes, I added this post and rubber as a temp; will drill a hole in the plastic and mount it properly later.
RM
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Quoted from DirtyApe:Yeah I was thinking of something like this, or possibly trying to 3D print something that fills the gap under his arm (secured to the screwhole there). I was thinking that something could possibly be put there that was both decorative and functional but didn't really have a good idea beyond maybe a cluster or rocks or something.
Guys seriously, did you turn your coil powers down?
On mine the autoplunger was doing it. But I guess the only other way a ball gets there is flying off the mecha ramp, in which case flipper power would be WAY too high.
Don't start drilling holes before you've tried to put your coils at the right settings..
If you've already tried those things would love to know how you are getting the ball up there.
Quoted from acedanger:Rough design for topper that I’ll 3d print.
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Trim the nails a bit maybe? slightly less curved? The ZY art already is a bit exaggerated from the Showa Godzilla... the long, more slinder, more curved claws on yours give off a more malevolent vibe... Godzilla is not malevolent, he's just a bit clumsy and maybe slight anger issues.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from IronMan8Bit:Made a few updates:
1. Updated reference of Master to Maser in 2 different spots
2. Updated Wizard Mode colors to match the game[quoted image]
It's not really accurate unless I'm reading wrong.
You have to do tier 1 Kaiju, leave Tokyo, do another tier 1 and a tier 2. Now, once you've done Tesla, bridge, tanks, now planet X is an option when you go to change cities a second time.
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:Is that how you're interpreting my flow? Or is that how you start Planet X Mini-Wizard mode? I pulled the rules from http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210 and it says this(below) granted it could be wrong and I've haven't gotten to it yet either. I've updated some clarifications on Tier 2 Kaiju Battle qualifications as you technically don't have to complete or start one to qualify Planet X Mini-Wizard mode. The first Kaiju Battle is restricted to a Tier 1 and you have to at least make it halfway through that a Tier 1 Kaiju Battle for Tier 2 Kaiju Battle to show up in the next city.
From the Wiki:
Planet X is qualified as a City Select option by achieving these tasks, even across multiple cities:
Starting a Kaiju Battle
Starting Tesla Strike
Starting Bridge Attack Multiball
Starting Tank Attack Multiball
Yeah that's the problem with unofficial rules wikis. I'm sure someone just misread the patch notes and went and updated it (without doing it in game) and then someone goes and makes a flow chart, again without doing it in game. I do hope Stern updates their rules sheet, they haven't in nearly a year.
Here's what the patch notes say:
EARLY - (default) Complete all of the following to unlock Planet X early at the Select City Screen
- Play any Tank Attack Multiball
- Play any Bridge Attack Multiball
- Play any Tesla Strike
- Play any Kaiju Battle
- Leave Tokyo and light "Select City" again
That last line there means AFTER you have left Tokyo, and are in a second city, you must light select city again. (note that the first time "Select City" is lit is to leave Tokyo, so the use of "again" here confirms you must already be in a second city). Since they have not changed how to light "Select City", what that means is you must do a tier 1 AND a tier 2 Kaiju battle in the second city. So that's a minimum of 6 scoop shots, instead of the 3 your chart currently insinuates.
Another one you want to fix is currently it says KoTM is "After any wizard mode has been played", but you need two. From the notes:
Godzilla Powerup - when the "PLANET X UNLOCK" adjustment is set to "EARLY", completing at least the first Hurry Up in Planet X
will unlock a 2nd choice for Godzilla Powerup Level 8. The first choice is always lighting the mini-wizard
mode you didn't pick from Level 4. The second choice (if available) will be "Light King of the Monsters".
So if you've done either ToMGZ/MZ --AND-- completed the first Hurry up in Planet X (not just start it), and done the 5 things from earlier, now you can do KOTM. Probably should be under the other wizard modes on a chart
Ok few more tiny ones:
3(+2) powerline targets starts Powerline attack, complete powerline attack to start Tesla strike (two steps)
You have to do the switch hits + captive ball shot 4 times to start bridge attack multiball (unclear from chart). I'd also call it captive ball because magna-grab is a lit shot there, might be confusing.
Some inconsistencies about bubble usage. For the 3 MBs on the right, you're putting the steps to qualify above, then the bubble is the mode (1 bubble). For the 4 city modes in the middle, you're putting the steps above the bubble, but then doing two bubbles for each.
Quoted from awesome1:Luckiest Super Secret Skillshot Ever???
the "old fashion way" of making that shot is one of my favorite things about this game. I go for it 95% of the time. I have such a hard time short plunging even when i really need a ball save, because it's fun to make the behind flipper shot, and if I make the scoop shot after I feel like I've had a great game without making anything else!
Quoted from gandamack:Appreciate it. I just wanted to see something besides Monster Zero.
if you drain to 1 ball after getting the first 6 shots, you'll still have 10 seconds to get the super jackpot. Easiest way is by shooting the MGZ ramp. Or use your heat ray (usually i will use that for the left ramp though assuming thats the only one left)
Quoted from chuckwurt:You got me. Not sure how it’s possible to get 16 loops in a row, so I doubt I’ll be able to see what’s what. Haha
80 in a game is pretty impressive too
Never move your machine OP. put traffic cones around those leg levelers. padlock the coin door. You've got it dialed in.
Quoted from vikingerik:Heh. Actually it's dialed in in a weird way - I get a lot of slow rattles around the loop that barely trickle over the top, but that's perfect for getting a slow controllable shot to hit it again. The 16 consecutive weren't anywhere near light speed, it was more like every third or fourth one rattled and slowed down a lot.
From a player's point of view, what's really important is to read the ball *spin* as it approaches the upper flipper. You want some clockwise spin so that it will bite into the flipper rubber and stay up against it, and more spin means more bite so you will flip slightly later. Counterclockwise spin will do the opposite, kick the ball away from the flipper rubber so the shot is harder. If there is counterclockwise spin -- most common from going right flipper -> spinner or right flipper -> failed left ramp -- let it drop past the upper flipper, since that spin will bite into the lower-left flipper rubber and come controllably into that inlane.
that's really interesting, but how else do you get it up there? isn't that the only two ways to feed the upper flipper except the loop shot? And even the loop shot, shouldn't it put the same spin on the ball as the inner orbit (spinner)? both left flippers, both counter clockwise loops?
So how are you getting clockwise spin?
Quoted from AMartin56:I'm fine with the lighting as is. Pinball machines are supposed to have a bit of mystery to them. Think soft focus and mood lighting in Playboy...not flood lamps in Hustler...
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It looks like you have a trough light or are using a flash or something???
Quoted from GCS2000:It was mentioned in another thread that this will be a $1000 or more but no final price had been set
If you've made it this long without a topper I can't see why one wouldn't just wait until the official topper is announced. You know it's gotta be coming soon, that it will probably be tied to gameplay modes, and that it will be probably be awesome, looking at the last 2 toppers stern released.
The tilt topper will still be for sale if it turns out to be worth the money once you see the official one.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Wanted an LE... Settled for a June allocation Premium. Looking forward to it.
What blades does everyone love? I REALLY like the look of the LE everything but it is what it is. Assume shaker is a must.
Stern art blades for sure, for original ZY art Anything else either:
1. Photoshop copy/paste of playfield/cabinet art
2. Doesn't match the artwork well at all.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Looks like they may be discontinued, seeing out of stock most anywhere.
Talk to your dist. Get on a list for when they come back. I assume they'll at least run them when they do the topper.
Quoted from Gnassel:Quick fix: Skillshot Gate Externder
A spring from a ballpoint pen was used to extend the gate. Works perfect.[quoted image]
Do you really need it still?
Imposter Battle - now allow Skill Shot rollunder switch OR Spinner begin will trigger the Imposter
I couldn't find update notes that referred to the skill shot specifically, but I haven't had this problem in a while (and I used to have it a lot), so I assumed that the left spinner gave the skill shot now too.
Quoted from Rensh:Joined the club today with a Premium
Had a hickup due to a short in a GI-socket but thats been taken care off
Now, I know I want some translucent rubbers and red flipperbands. But, the black post-sleeves, any recommendations? Red, Grey, black?
Also gonna install a playfield protector and yellow convolux. Saw this once and liked it quite a lot
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Here's all translucent. The post sleeves do show some wear after 1000 games or so, not too bad. I just rotated them around
PXL_20220817_041413217 (resized).jpgQuoted from Moli410:Sorokyl What bridge upgrade is that on your machine?
Quoted from Rensh:Think that’s the one from Lior. He also has a Lior shield mod.
Nope. The spinner platform and ufo are Sleal16.
The bridge is Kevin
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-premium-le-train-bridge-mod
All 3 of those mods are fantastic, and way cheaper than Lior. Note that I do paint a lot of my mods but they look great as shipped too.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:Exactly what I am talking about. Noisy minority. Most people do not give a shit if a game has a protector or not.
Each to their own.
That's not really accurate. Most people haven't played a particular game with a playfield protector, so they can't have an opinion. Out of the people that have tried it, what % like it? Hard to say. For sure many see it as completely unnecessary.
I will say that the right way to do a playfield protector is immediately so that the playfield is clean. If you do that, then you don't have the benefit of playing that machine both ways, so how do you know if that particular machine plays the same?
I just got a MMr which had a day 1 playfield protector. I played it that way for a couple of weeks. Bad backbox / dmd glare off of it. Ball behaved weirdly on it sometimes. I cut it off (exposing a brand new MM playfield which was kinda cool) and I enjoy playing the game much more without it.
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:im a new owner and I want to dress up the right ramp with a tilt graphic sticker.
for folks that have played it for a bit:
does the railroad or the highway make the most sense for it?
Not sure with either makes a ton of sense. The left ramp is the "train" shot.
Theres a thousand mods for this game and every has different preferences. I have tons of mods but dont really care for that one (though I'm getting similar decal for iron maiden). Just own the game for a bit and then you can decide. Especially for mods like this that are always available. Hand made mods that are limited time, I could understand rushing to order.
Quoted from CashMoney:No need to adjust flipper power, it comes set from the factory.
Are you having issues with your flippers?
It is not only possible but in fact best practice to dial in your coil power settings... they are not always ideal from factory
The two that come up all the time are trough eject (to be gentler on shooter lane) and auto plunge (too strong and it will get stuck behind MGZ). Can dial that one in to hit the captive ball or not depending on preference. Another one would be scoop eject. What kind of rubber is on your flippers and how do you want the ball to behave when it ejects? And then of course flipper strength.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:So Little Shop of Games preorder is sold out already. Was that for the second run of toppers preorder?
Think everyone is sold out of first run..second run is seemingly unlimited. They'll make however many orders they get (unclear when they stop taking orders).
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Don't know what it even is, still sells out
Heard Keith Elwin built it himself out of Legos.
So for those who speculatively put a, say, $100 non-redundable deposit down on this last week on a first batch topper assuming "It can't be that bad, I'll sell it if I don't like it"
Are you actually going to buy it now? or let the $100 go. I am leaning admit a bad bet and "let the $100 go." At first I thought that no matter what there would be enough demand for resale on the first batch... but now not so sure. At least, not enough to justify the hassle. Long term it saves me money as I have 0 toppers as is and this would have been breaking the seal...
Quoted from Sorokyl:I think the non-official toppers are gonna be a hard sell if the official one adds gameplay... Especially if they're all at the same price point. Assuming it's not hideous or too basic.
I was so young and naïve...
Quoted from Gubbin:Stern Purposely released a shitty topper to sell a new subscription service for "exclusive" topper modes.
I don't buy this. Not like they're going to sell a better GZ sculpt or a better atomic breath sculpt. Or additional plastics/mechanisms.
Nobody is going to subscribe to get a better light show on the topper.
Quoted from hcj13:I get the expectation has gone up. But what is wrong with this vs avenger topper? JP topper that cost the same?
I think expectations were just high after Mando and Rush toppers. In the last few years with the CGC toppers, and those 2 recent ones from Stern, was hoping manufacturers have seen what the consumers really want. and it's not flat plastics and LEDs, and certainly not that same sculpt that a freaking dozen people have already released mods to replace.
Maybe the pins' design team is in charge or oversees toppers and Team Elwin just sucks at toppers compared to others. I dunno how it works.
I think The Electric Playground wins the topper wars? For now?
Stern: no comment
Tilt: it's a decent effort. but I really just don't need any more GZ or Mothra or MGZ depictions, Most already have "Flaming frames", and I -really- don't need it to say "Godzilla" again. That's a pet peeve. Also 3d print lines, which this has.
Electric Playground: No print lines, no redundant Kaiju or title. Got some mechanical aspects which is cool. It does not come close to their TZ topper but eh. It's decent.
For GZ I guess it's hard to find elements that don't feel reundant (kaiju, buildings, flames). The Stern topper would have been fine if it had been better executed (better sculpts, mostly) Especially if they took the rising UFO from the Electric Playground topper! Oh man. But still. The translite (and most cabinets) already has atomic breath godzilla...
The real winners are the people who spent effort making their own nice toppers (dioramas, etc). I bet those dudes are feeling smug today
Quoted from purbeast:No it's from Etsy.
I wasn't going to pay $1k for the Stern one so it wasn't really related to my decision, but I purchased one of these this morning. I just want something basic that lights up on top to match my JP that has a Tilt topper. And it was only $175 shipped.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1473755364/godzilla-pinball-led-lightbox-godzilla
Only 2 left. And the inventory is accurate as it showed 3 left before I purchased mine.
I mean if you guys like that then more power to you, but the art is literally lifted off the backglass art. I guess depending on your model, you're copying an image and pasting it 12 inches higher. I guess on the prem he's at least facing the other way? and then adding yet another "GODZILLA" for good measure.
Cool sign to hang on a wall though
Quoted from Cobray:Let's break this topper down-
1. Flat plastic, screened back with LEDs. $20 tops to make.
2. Flat, plastic screened cutouts that have tanks screened on them. $5 on a good day.
3. A big, plastic Godzilla figure that would be $20 (tops) in any toy store.. zip tied to the back of the plastic platform.
4. wood materials, brackets, wires... maybe $60 on a good day.
Good to see that Stern is sticking with their 1000% profit margin on offerings to their pinball customers.
[quoted image]
Biggest part of the topper bom is always the node board, and if they are still supply constrained the opportunity cost of not using it to make another pin. Pins are lower margin but grow the biz.
Also wonder what dealers pay for these? Is it a high margin item for them? Hopefully, since I don't think pins themselves are.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:I ordered the Stern topper yesterday, after cancelling it, then ordering again..and they are sold out of the first run, so I'm sure some of you got in on it I personally don't like the price (duh!), but I still think it's the 'best' topper that I've seen so far (overall, zip-tie aside). The burning buildings..what can I say..that's badass. Keep in mind that stern's TMNT topper has a moving eyeball + lightshow (same price). Deadpool has a moving thumb and a lightshow for $700..Stranger Things has the infinity glass (650-700)..these aren't revolutionary toppers by ANY means..but, it is a licensed Stern product, and that's where they all have us by the balls.
Sure, burning buildings are cool. But are you spending a $1000 on a topper without already having Flaming Frames? Then it's kind of redundant, right?
Quoted from Oneironaut:5 to 7 Toppers $10,000...1 Stern premium $10,000. Top that!
I would rather an extra Pin in my lineup than some toppers.
An extra Pin sure would put out more than a little light show and few extra modes.
obviously. But most people do not have unlimited pinball capacity.
Pretty sure most people typically go "wide" (increase collection) before going "tall/deep" (toppers, expensive mods like glass, etc)
Once you reach capacity, you have money burning a hole in your pocket, Stern would rather sell you other pinball machines, but they'll take your money for overpriced accessories if they must.
Quoted from pinballjah:If your disappointed by the new topper, you won’t be disappointed by this
Yeah dude I am actually disappointed. You make big wooden Stern signs. Nice craftsmanship. Looks well made. Wrong Godzilla though. doesn't look anything like the Showa era films Godzilla the pin is based on or ZYs interpretation. But all that's fine. Hope you sell a bunch. Just stop posting about it. This is a cluttered enough thread already without you posting eight large pictures of your same sign every few weeks or however often (maybe across multiple threads, but still).
Try haivng your own "Really Cool Wooden Sign" thread where you can remind interested parties that this is available.
We're really busy in here trying to shit on this topper.
Quoted from Green-Machine:LOL
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Are you OK? you quoted your own post and it has you laughing out loud??
Quoted from MasterBlaster:Don’t forget about that awful shooter rod, also being shat upon.
Shooter rod came out a long time ago. we've all had time to grieve. Official shooter rods are rarely the play anyway, unlike toppers which are usually a decent option.
Quoted from Tommy_Pins:At least the shooter rod is ergonomic. It’s not a clown head or sword handle.
All this topper talk has distracted us from the real news. Foo fighters has dethroned the king!
it makes a lot of sense to me that expression lights and Jack Dangers signature adds 0.532 points to the rating making FF LE the best title and FF Premium the 6th best title.
Quoted from allsportdvd:My opinion on toppers (and I'm a sales director for my company) is that the toppers are a way of selling games.
Those games that aren't high sellers or Stern has lots of stock get a lot more effort put into the topper in the hopes that a really cool interactive topper influences customers into purchasing a game they may not have purchased beforehand
On the flip side, top selling games don't need a topper to sell well, the topper is there to purely grab extra profit
"Eh I don't really love Mando. I don't think I'd spend 7000 on it. Just not a fun game. "
"Oh shit, what a cool topper... See ya later $9000!"
-very few people
Quoted from math08:My wife had set a 4 machine limit. I traded my beautiful fully restored Creature for my Mando Premium. When GZ came out, I was able to persuade her to allow a 5th (with some help from my kids), and am currently at that limit and will probably be there for quite a while.
It's like herniating a disc for the first time. The goo comes out and it's not going back in. And the barrier is forever weakened. You know you're gonna have another hernia, it's just a matter of time before you slip.
Ask your wife if she wants an epidural to help her cope.
Ok. invoice for topper came. Pinball speculators assemble...
What are the odds that in a couple of years, I will be able to get more than $936 for this topper? ($1000 -100 deposit + 36 shipping)
I am happy to take it and check it out. maybe see what it looks like with a different figure in place... I just don't want to waste a bunch of money if I don't like it. It seems unlikely value drops much below MSRP??
If anyone has any videos of the topper besides Stern's official video, that would help!
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:I didn't see anyone else post it, but did you guys see the new TEP Godzilla Topper.. I think it might be the best one yet out of all the new offerings recently announced.
They also mentioned a Conquerer upgrade, that can be upgraded on any of their Toppers which will have actual screens and display custom animations. That's what I expected Stern to make. Competition is good for the community.
Here is their website on this and video.
https://www.teppinball.com/store/p/gz-topper[quoted image]
Quoted from newpinbin:What is the price?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-electric-playground-gz-topper-batch-1-sept-23
Quoted from Baggerman:the whole idea of paywalls after 10K purchase makes me sick to my stomach. Shame on them.
But would the extra mode be developed if not for the topper? Does the revenue from the topper not pay for the development of the extra mode? I'd argue that GZ code was complete. All the inserts worked. nothing felt missing... So this mode was probably thought of afterwards just for the topper.
Makes sense to me. You paid $10k for the machine and the code as it was at the time of purchase, with reasonable expection the code would be fleshed out. They delivered on that. Now they want to sell more code via the topper. Seems OK.
Quoted from zh2oson:Honestly, in today's pinball world, this is a $1,000 topper. Is it worth the price?? That's a personal decision.
You can be mad at the state of things, but this seems about right to me. It's not a Mando-level topper and the days of $400 officially-licensed toppers are gone.
There are going to be people that always complain "that's just a bunch of plastic and leds for $1000!"
I expected it to be plastic and leds for $1000. Probably anyone smart already expected that.
The real outrage is with the implementation and attention to detail of that plastic.
1. the GZ sculpt, we know everyone hates.
2. the vape plume...why is it glossy. does it make sense that it's that shape?
3. the scale of the tanks.
4. one feature is "projects GZ shadow". Yeah, if you happen to have a wall to the right of the machine??
They could have spent approximately the same amount of money and done a better job. The people that made this topper do not have the right eyeballs for making toppers.
On the subject of the plume. I think a lot of people are comparing it to the ZY artwork. But the atomic breath is not a laser beam. It has several looks during this Showa period, and honestly the Topper version is not that far off, and maybe even closer than the ZY version...
Quoted from beltking:My topper shipped from Zach and will be here tomorrow! Just picked up a Ghostbuster LE with topper today. Go read YouTube comments on that one from 8 yrs ago bitching about it being $500 and I'd give you $150. Wait 8 yrs and see what this Godzilla topper will fetch once its done. IDK will it be rare? I think GB they didn't make many of them and was a poor seller.
Yeah... I went ahead and pulled the trigger. Kind of hoping people stay down on it since the 2nd run is based on demand only. The fewer they make the more mine will be worth down the road...
Quoted from GCS2000:I think a lot of people want to swap the topper figure with the Atomic one. While I think that would look way better (especially if it interacts with the game correctly) but that just adds to the cost of the topper.
Unfortunately for me as much as I think this topper fell very flat of the mark I am probably going to get it. We have to move games around and where GZ is going to be I have a clearance issue and this topper comes in under my height restriction without issue. Its either this one or no topper which is not the option I want tbh.
For the playfield Godzilla I have the NECA godzilla. I like having the accurate Showa era Godzilla. I think the Atomic one, while resembling the playfield art,l is kind of a skinny little bitch who for some reason doesn't have eyeballs or teeth.
I don't know know what I want to do for the topper though. Do I buy a second NECA godzilla? I don't want the same thing in both places. So maybe if something else cool comes along for the playfield slot i'll move my Neca Godzilla up there (after updating the paint job to better match the machine)
Quoted from marioparty34:Can someone please tell me how to access the 'King of the Monsters Time Attack' mode directly? Or is it even possible?
Same way you access juke box. Hold right flipper button (or both). Must have topper installed.
Eh. I don't like it any better in person. Will definitely get rid of it in a year or two. Maybe I'm just not a topper guy. Also after 18 months, couldn't they have waited a few more weeks til the code was ready to play the new mode? That would have made the first impression a little better.
One thing I hadn't seen yet is a pic of the topper with the flamin frames speaker light kit. They kinda clash, the red flames with the yellow orange flames on the topper. And I think yellow/orange flames are better and I didn't realize I would prefer that on the speaker light kit so thanks shitty topper for making me like my speaker light kit less. I know some people aren't as picky aesthetically, but damn I feel like this point alone might be enough to make me not want the topper even without all the other shit.
PXL_20230610_204949027 (resized).jpgQuoted from lakerone:Wonder how that would look too, plan on changing my speaker flames to a different color....
Anyone know if you can do that with Doug's kit?? I assume they are not RGB but maybe I'm wrong. Would be cool to change the color a little bit even if I don't keep the topper.
Quoted from Straight2VHS:I've seen a lot of posts on trapped balls behind Mechagodzilla's left arm for Premium and LE owners. I'm noticing the issue more on my Premium after I added art blades, which come on the LE's. I think that added thickness of the blade causes the issue even more. I came up with a solution using 1/2" clear rubber bumpers, not the typical 3/8" size. The 1/2" raise the mech just enough for the ball to clear the arm if it ever gets back behind it. I'm confident this solution will work for most. I tested the mech out and the extra lift doesn't impact the magnet at all.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Every post you see about ball behind arm, if you keep reading you'll see someone tell them to turn the auto plunge power down, and then a post confirming that fixed it.
Every now and then, when 6 year olds get a home of it, they can still get the ball back there.. but I haven't done it in over 1000 plays going for skill shots.
Quoted from DugFreez:The light strips themselves are RGB. To change the color of my Flamin' Frames light kit, it would need a new/different controller ($20). In that case, it would just be a different color that could not be changed. Using different color programming is easy enough, but getting a natural flame look that closer matches the more orange look of the topper flames might be tough. The original Fire2012WithPalette programming used red, yellow and white. What is used in the Flamin' Frames programming is just red and orange. I don't know how just orange alone would look and if you did add in another color....I would think you would want something in a darker orange and remove the red. I'll see what that looks like when I get a chance.
Flames in green, blue and purple are easy enough. I've sold a few different custom controllers to people with their Flamin' Frames orders, but I don't see how changing to a color like that would better match the flame color of the topper.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
Appreciate the response Doug! I think I'll just ditch the topper and try to forget the orange flames!
Quoted from RoadQueen:And so does the GZ topper modding begin… The Sleal16 Godzilla figure that I had in the game until I changed it for the Atomic Godzilla found a perfect spot in the topper. Even the screws to hold it line up perfectly with the topper holes. Love the projected shadow on my ceiling too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Better sculpt but not really selling the atomic breath...
Quoted from jackd104:So replace the tanks, the bong smoke cloud, and Godzilla, and you might be on the way to having a decent topper. Maybe buildings can stay?
Don't forget Add gels to the windows though to match the red flames throughout the artwork...
Quoted from MacGruber:Those weren't challenge modes. Think of this as God mode on GB or Escape Nublar on JP, Battle Royale in AIQ. Goat and Gem mania were just something extra you got during the game, and Mando as well with Bescar bonanza. This you can access by holding both flippers. Honestly I got a bad feeling about this I think we're screwed..
Screwed either way right? If someone paid $1000 with any amount of the perceived value attached the the exclusive mode, you fuck those people over by making it non-exclusive.
Quoted from DownSouthPinball:Topper is better than expected.
[quoted image]
My man's up to 14 Godzillas, can anyone "top" that?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Trojanlaw:Here is the Topper with the 1956 NECA GZ painted by Apinjunkie
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Ok but why do you have him heat raying through his teeth? It's an articulating action figure right? The jaw opens. Would look a lot better and make more sense if you open his mouth.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:I was disappointed when I saw the topper but its fantastic in action. The bozos moaning about it were never going to get one anyway, even if it had a hologram of Godzilla that ripped thru the door of your room and shouted shoot the ramps.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:People who haven't seen the topper in person, will be in for a nice surprise..just sayin..don't completely knock it down until you see one in person.
Have it... Not blowing my mind. Its not the worst thing in the world but I think every criticism of it is valid.
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