Quoted from ExSquid:

HAH! Well there ya go! nice! Yeah I'm hoping I can get lucky and find someone on the island who would want the DP when I get it. If you know anyone give me a holler.

Quoted from Betelgeuse:

My 'zilla is schedule to arrive tomorrow, but the tracking says it's been sitting in the same spot 500+ miles away since Monday night. I'm starting to think it's going to be a disappointing weekend...

Quoted from RonaldRaygun_:

I just got my premium today!
I had a few issues I wanted to see if any of you could help with. It's my first pin and I'm looking to see if any of you had any issues with your flippers right out of the gate? For whatever reason, my lower left flipper refuses to actuate with the switch. It will actuate if I go into the coil test, but that is the only way it will fire. I've checked the flipper switch, and it makes good contact. I'm not entirely sure where to look next.
If I lift the play field to examine the underside, I can never get it to sit nicely back into the slots at the front. Those little fingers sit about 1/8 of an inch away from the slot. I have to lift the back of the playfield in order to get it to drop into the slot.
The plunger also seems to be out of alignment. The autoplunger works just fine, but the shooter rod retaining washer hits the side of the autoplunger - thing? The little metal fork. The manual plunges are always incredibly weak because of this. Barely making it out of the shooter lane. I included a picture of the alignment of the rod.
Thanks for any help!
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Quoted from RonaldRaygun_:

I just got my premium today!
I had a few issues I wanted to see if any of you could help with. It's my first pin and I'm looking to see if any of you had any issues with your flippers right out of the gate? For whatever reason, my lower left flipper refuses to actuate with the switch. It will actuate if I go into the coil test, but that is the only way it will fire. I've checked the flipper switch, and it makes good contact. I'm not entirely sure where to look next.
If I lift the play field to examine the underside, I can never get it to sit nicely back into the slots at the front. Those little fingers sit about 1/8 of an inch away from the slot. I have to lift the back of the playfield in order to get it to drop into the slot.
The plunger also seems to be out of alignment. The autoplunger works just fine, but the shooter rod retaining washer hits the side of the autoplunger - thing? The little metal fork. The manual plunges are always incredibly weak because of this. Barely making it out of the shooter lane. I included a picture of the alignment of the rod.
Thanks for any help!
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Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Just joined the club after finding an in Stock premium local to me yesterday. This is my first new Stern. Is anyone using any shooter lane protector and if so, what are you using that fits and looks good? I've used Cliffy's before. Also, where are people getting the power line mods from. Thanks!
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Quoted from Magicmike0:

Are you guys buying aftermarket Art blades? I haven’t seen the stern ones out yet.

Quoted from Muymanwell:

got JJ mounted in, looking good
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Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

I can't recall who originally posted about using Comet star post Fire LEDs to light the building from beneath the power line targets and behind the building (but will search later when time permits.)
First off, my thanks, because the power line targets lit from below look outstanding.
I did not try lighting the building from behind, but I did attach a hex spacer above the post to the left of the train ramp, and inelegantly taped a star post Fire LED there to aimed at the front of the building. It works pretty well and has the benefit of making the bridge look slightly apocalyptic as well...
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Quoted from matt68061:

I just painted mine yesterday. Literally used a chop saw as if he were a 2x4… ha. Worked fine.
Pretty pleased with it…thinking HARD about running a small blue led into top of his mouth… im not 100% sold on the blue tongue but it matches the artwork. Looks good when lit by the spotlight. Gonna finish with a spray of semi gloss clear tomorrow.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from matt68061:

Thanks… it was just acryllic paint I stole from my wifes craft room…. I believe it was “Folkart” bought from Michaels or Hobby Lobby.
Used 2-3 different greens and some yellow…. Mixed into 4-5 shades and just thinly layered them on. Have to let each layer dry or it all just blends together.
For the blues I started with a purple/navy mix and just lightened the blues up to nearly white towards the top of his scutes. (Not a word you get to use every day…ha!). Use 3 shades of blue.
When it was dry I cleaned all the brushes in a small dish water and added a dab of black paint. With a very runny dark mix, almost water in consistency, I lighly brushed that in places and let it run down through the crevices in his scales…dabbing in places with a paper towel. Gave it a nice depth…kind of a “low lighting” if you will.
Wasted the last three hours looking at small LED’s… considering sticking one in the roof of his mouth .
Good luck!

Quoted from matt68061:

So after painting and installing the Godzilla bank figure last week… I decided to add a small, “flickering” LED in the roof of his mouth. Really pleased… looks fantastic in person… but kinda washed out in the photos. Think it ties in real nice with the “blue flame” on the game artwork.
Total cost was about $20 bucks.
All the room lights are on in the bottom picture and the spotlight is aimed directly on GZ. I actually moved it more towards the building to the right. Like it a bit more that way. No LED in that pic.
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Quoted from Pmaino:

What's everyone doing for side blades? Looking to add some to my premium.

Quoted from docquest:

Looks great!
Are LED's in eyes and mouth always lit or do they trigger on/off from something during gameplay?

Quoted from docquest:

Isn't there still power to the service outlet though when the game is switched off?

Quoted from koops:

While putting on some washers on the rails I had to go cabinet fishing after dropping a nut. I then found a nice little surprise.
bolt hole cut outs from the art blades. They still had the wax paper on the back of them so I could just stick them on. I havnt had a nib stern Le prior to my mando/zilla so is it a common thing or just a happy accident? I havnt checked my mando to see if they’re in there also.
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Quoted from tonyf1965:

Love my UFO also.
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Quoted from izzy:

I have a set of the Tesla Towers by Diddy. For the folks that installed them all facing forward with the back right one hanging over the ramp, have you had that arm break or feel like it will eventually get hit by the ball? I set mine up per instructions, but i like the other look better. Here is a photo (not of my game or taken by me) of the recommended setup.
thx
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Quoted from izzy:

How did you attach the back right tower?
thx

Quoted from izzy:

I was thinking of going that route> Didn't want to drill a hole in the plastic.
thx

Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Another approach someone mentioned was cut out a piece of thin flat plastic from say a milk jug that sticks out beyond the base. 3M tape or similar to connect to the Tesla tower base then drill the hole in the flat plastic.

Quoted from Days:

Hi, what's the scale of it? 1:72 ? 1:48 ? 1:102
Thanks

Quoted from atg1469:

What exactly do these comet fire LEDs do?

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Looks like the blue rubber is missing inside your building on the left.

Quoted from digitaldocc:

Can you show me where you placed your led behind the drake and how you ran the wire? I couldn't find a good location and went for stashing 3 fire post leds inside the building behind it.

Quoted from digitaldocc:

Here is what I pulled off with the matrix fire LEDs.
2 under the bridge
2 under Drake targets
1 front right of the Drake hiding behind a wireforn
2 inside the ball lock building behind the Drake facing up to backlight the plastic and 1 facing down to light up the metal.
All tied to the shaker thanks to the guidance sushko gave me.

Quoted from Bohdi:

Thanks. Like to see some pics from people that added a figure back there. I know there some on here but....Really trying to get some ideas of MUST add-ons, especially for the Pro

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

My Mando was doing the same thing, I ordered some anti-airball wedges that you can place under the target bracket.$1 each for a really simple 3D print that really does fix the problem. I've noticed this on most Sterns that I've played, ordered extras to install when Godzilla arrives. I forget off the top of my head who sells them but they can usually be found in the crawl of pinside shop accessories on the bottom of this page. A lot less stressful than bending brackets.
Hippies Haven has them

Quoted from splickety_lit:

Since I got GZ Pro back in December, the left ramp has been getting a lot of rejects that rattled around like crazy once it hit the opening. It seems like the ball guide to the left of the Magna Grab was sticking out too far from the magnet. The ball was nicking the very tip of it which would cause it to careen off and start rattling around the entrance.
I loosened the post on the ball guide closest to the magnet, pushed the guide in closer, then tightened the post back down. This reduced the gap between the magnet and ball guide. Afterwards, I noticed a significant decrease in the amount of rattling rejects to the left ramp. You still have to nail the shot for it to go up the ramp, but I haven't noticed any rattling now.
As a bonus, the ball has A LOT more "swing" when the Magna Grab snags it, which slightly increases the ability to make the Imposter award. Before this fix, the ball was barely swinging, probably because it was hitting the ball guide.
Before the fix:
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After the fix:
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If you're getting a lot of rattling rejects on the left ramp, hopefully this helps.

Quoted from RoyalJack:

Hot off the press! I have an early Godzilla Cliffy set installed. Make sure you reach out to Cliff via his website http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm or [email protected]. Tell him Brian sent you .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Lermods:

No pics or videos, but they are very easy to install. Remove the apron, depending on model either two nuts underneath the pf or two nuts under the score card. Then remove the two flat metal bolts by removing the nuts underneath and punching them out. Install cliffy. For the right side protector, remove the first two screws holding the wood on, slide the cliffy underneath and reinstall the screws.

Quoted from ax014:

I am getting balls stuck on the right habit trail (feed from the left ramp) right where the rail goes underneath itself after it loops. Any tips/suggestions?

Quoted from BaumeisterB:

I think the issue might be the building exit switch #53. I had a similar issue that was causing me to fail to disarm the oxygen destroyer, but building damage still registered. In my case the arm on the micro switch somehow popped out from under the gate arm and was above it. I was able to gently flex it back under from the side and noticed the magna grab on exiting the building also started working again.

Quoted from zahner:

I have been collecting since 1996 and I just picked up my first Stern pinball - a Godzilla Pro. I have a couple of questions. I for the life of me cannot get the sling plastics off. The upper bolt appears to be bigger that the hole on the plastic. It spins around, but dang, it does not want to come up. Thoughts? Also, I am not familiar with the menu and I am having trouble setting it up to reward extra balls. Any guidance there would be appreciated. Finally, I am not finding an assembly diagram for the door. I want to switch out the coin buttons, and I think I know how to approach it, but since there is no rush, I thought I'd ask before I just start going with my intuition. Thanks!

Quoted from Moeman65:

The magnet only holds the ball during megagrab and its countdown, other times it is a diverter.

Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Magnet also holds the ball briefly so it flings the ball when you rip it through the inner lane just left of the building, triggered by the switch under the bridge. My magna grab completely stopped working recently because there was a short in one of the wires in the harness.

Quoted from awesome1:

You are correct. Along with starting all 4 modes (in any city combination) - Tokyo only has 1 Kaiju battle, once you change cities, you need to at least start the 2 Kaiju battles for that city to allow you to change cities to planet X (or another city).