Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Got notified today that my pro is currently on a freighter en route from los angeles to hawaii - not just my first NIB, first pin period

Quoted from rolandhammer:

Fired up my machine last night and a few seconds into play it seemed like the lower half of the playfield lost power. Flippers were activating maybe 50% of the time and LEDs were dim or flashing intermittently. I took a look at the diagnostics and it said nodes 1, 8, 9, and 10 were not responding. I saw another thread with the same issue and checked the ethernet cables on the nodes and all were fine. Any idea what could be causing this? Anyone else run into this issue? Every minute I'm not playing is agony!

Quoted from sushko:

Heat ray lighting. I would like to say that the easiest way to do this is just hot glue some LED strip to the back of the plastic flame and just tap into a flasher.
The way I did it was to use this optocoupler so the shaker motor could be used as a trigger. That requires a separate power supply for the LEDS. The optocoupler is labeled so you have voltage input output to the LEDS and the trigger.
I should have taken some pictures as l was doing this but I didn't.
The LED strip that I used you can cut to size and I also cut some of the sides off so it would stay hidden. Be careful if you do this don't get to close to the LED as it will stop working. There is plenty of strip to play with. There is a switch right by the back of the bridge to bring the wire down to the bottom of the playfield. The wire is at the bottom of the flame.
Ocona COB LED Light Strips ,... amazon.com link »
NOYITO Optocoupler isolation MOS... amazon.com link »

Quoted from DeathHimself:

They are 1:87 scale or HO scale figures!!
End of the World Roof Party!!!![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinball2020:

Pinballmonkey - If I remember correctly, go into the settings - look for service settings and I think you either have to change the numbers or enable the physical knocker (and I may be getting this confused with American Pinball machines).
This is a seat of the pants guess but try:
Knocker Volume Adj Number:
#44
Q24 Option Adj Number:
#57
You may want to shoot Stern a quick email or call them as well if this doesn't work.
Good luck and let us know if that did the trick. I added a shaker motor but haven't added a real knocker for Godzilla yet.
Updated: When you say SHOOT AGAIN - The knocker to me indicates you have won a free game. I apologize but I haven't heard it for just SHOOT AGAIN in terms of same player - getting an extra ball, if that is what you are asking.

Quoted from dri:

Hello club! I've not yet received my LE but I'm doing a stream from Lynn's Arcade this eve on the premium (0.85 installed!). Might be of interest for all the folks waiting. https://twitch.tv/dri374 is the place and 6PM PST is the time.
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Quoted from CashMoney:

I do the same expect I just get the backbox speakers that stern uses in their LEs, they sound great and are cheaper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-le-speaker-set-5-14-4-ohm.html
Then I upgrade the cab speaker to this, I think it’s the same one as the LE cab speaker:
ebay.com link: Goldwood Sound GW 8024 Rubber Surround 8 Woofer 190 Watts 4ohm Speaker
The cab speaker used to be $20 wow…

Quoted from El_Patron:

Is everybody's plastic underneath the bridge broken? Mine finally gave way. Stern has a kit coming, hopefully a redesign of the bridge so the lower framework of the bridge is not so close to the magna grab cover. Until then I guess it's just leave it broken

Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

That's what I've been thinking. How big of a bumper did you use?

Quoted from Returner:

I would care more for the playfield under the magnet cap than the plastic...

Quoted from xyntec:

Got a new issue...

Quoted from davegauth:

DIY sound upgrades round 3
Frustrated with the stock sub muddling up the sound of the back box speakers. It's time to throw down with a new sub.
Subwoofers can present a challenge in a pin. First it's by no means an ideal enclosure. Second they are power hungry and require a lot of power to truly shine. Third good subs get expensive fast.
Much of this can be solved by just going to a separate powered subwoofer that can live under your pin. But that option runs around $150-$250 and doesn't address the muddling sound of the stock sub messing up the sound.
I found a renewed JBL Stage 810 for $50. Renewed is a gamble. But I figure if this nice JBL didn't work there is no hope for anything lower/cheaper making a difference.
So how did it go - Ohhhhhh Myyyyyyyy... This did the trick and then some. Finally it's coming alive. The base is very tight and punchy. It also cuts off closer to 1-2k without filtering. This means much less mid is projecting through the backbox. What does make it up the backbox is nice and crisp without interfering with the new 4" Kickers.
Pro's - this is the missing piece needed to make upgrading your speakers worth while. Once balanced with the backbox speakers they stayed that way through all volume levels. Even lower volume levels still gave that nice bass/puch feel.
Con's - It is a power hungry sub. Even though it's 4ohms, you will need to run it as 8ohm to be able to balance more evenly with the back box speakers. Mounting is not a simple bolt in replacement. The bolts in the cabinet will need to be replaced with longer ones, as the lip on this JBL is really thick. Alternatively, a couple wood screws could be used to fasten the speaker to the inside of the cabinet using the other holes in the speaker rim.
Overall - Speaker upgrades may only be worth it if you change out that crappy sub as well. Once you do - it just opens everything up.
Next up - I'll get back to testing some quality 5.25" options, and I have another sub coming to test.
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Quoted from Pinballmonkey:

did you think about adding a crossover to the sub woofer?