(Topic ID: 300354)
Linked Games
Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021-
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
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Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021
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Quoted from PinMonk:I'm interested in trying the Prem/LE now, but the Pro is a flow monster. Really fun to shoot and flowy combo chains all over the place. I can't imagine people being disappointed with the way it shoots. Very fun.
Been playing mine since it arrived on Monday, fantastic game. As you say, a ton of flow, the shots are smooth and satisfying. Only shot that gives me trouble is the hairpin just to the left of the building as a hard shot often takes it sdtm. The code has a long way to go, but the bones are there and it’s going to be one of sterns best. It feels like a cross between DP and maiden, likely because the same people are involved with both games (ZY and KE). I also find I get the same satisfaction from GZ as I do from my jp prem. I’d guess the breakaway bridge will be really cool on the Prem/le, but the Pro should not be looked down on.
Quoted from delt31:I agree and although I'm in on an LE, when I first saw the pro and everyone loved the prem/le, I said don't sleep on that pro b/c it looks great! Happy to hear you're comparing this to JP prem b/c that is my #1 still of all time.
Can you confirm if you can hit that top right ramp with the left top flipper? I keep on hearing diff answers.
Don’t think I’ve made that shot.
Quoted from PinMonk:Dead simple. The facade just screws off and there's plenty of room in there for lighting.
I personally think that some uplighting on the front of the building might be aesthetically pleasing, but the damage indicator insert lighting on the playfield could probably be mirrored into the building to light up the windows as the damage increases. Definitely a lot of possibilities to improve this area on a Pro.
[quoted image]
You jumped the gun on us just a bit. Here's our version of lighting up the building. We didn't tie it to the damage indicators as you have to do a lot of repining and wiring and to be honest there isn't a lot of room to feed wires down without doing some drilling. We took a simpler path that I think is pretty effective by lighting the building inside using the building spotlight flasher, which is so far away its pretty much useless. Now the building will light and flash whenever the spotlight flasher is active. We used ice blue for this one, but I think cool or even warm white would work fine too. The two flashers in the back of the game use cool white so the ice blue gives some contrast. I think it will only work on the pro, but not really sure what’s inside the prem/le version.
Quoted from Mando:Has anyone solved the ball going SDTM on a loop shot that enters right of the magnet end exits the building ? Seemed this exit is aimed directly at the middle drain ? On a prem/Le if it matters.
I’ve got the same issue, might have to level the game so it tilts a little more to the right. Or be prepared to nudge the game so it doesn’t happen. I had an issue where the magnet was dropping the ball on the top of the flipper, leveling fixed that issue.
Quoted from Mando:No ... But none of these machines , or mods etc are worth what we are paying for them . We do it anyway and in this case it's the way to go IMO 3 pretty major gameplay features. I have a turtles LE but a good argument could be made the pro there is fine ... Not in this case IMO.
I’m sure le and prem are great, but I love playing my pro. I think it’s the best pro they’ve made so far and I’ve pretty much owned them all. Maybe one day I’ll upgrade like I did for jp, but right now I’m pretty happy with what I have.
1 week later
Just got to tank battle, seems incomplete. Hit all the tank shots, but then it wasn’t clear what to hit, nothing really flashing.
Also got to one of the monster pair up battles, same thing, hit the flashing shots then nothing.
Guessing it’s just the code isn’t complete.
Quoted from EaglePin:Did you shoot the jackpot at the lit Maser Cannon?
I don't remember, just don't recall any lit indicator to shoot for.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:For those who own Godzilla Pro, how do you feel about the overall gameplay experience? I got to play the pro a little bit at Arcade Monsters, but they have already replaced it with an LE. The LE is of course, amazing! The pro left me wondering what the "wow" factor feature was. It definitely flowed, had good shots, and fun theme integration. But, the magnet was just "ok" and the building didn't seem to do anything on the pro. It leaves me wondering if Godzilla Pro could even compete with a machine like Jurassic Park Pro?
Really liking my pro, great shots and great flow. Admittedly, I have not played a premium or le gz, but the pro has really been an amazing game to play. Gz pro is better than jp pro for me, but not necessarily jp premium.
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:LE 194 in the house! Before I get to any serious playing, is there a Cliffy protector set out for Godzilla? I see there's a playfield protector already out, but, yeah, no, I don't know if I want to take everything apart to get it installed. Cliffys for sure, though.
he has shooter lane protectors available.
Quoted from fastchef:Just picked up my LE and I’m having an early issue with the ball auto launching on its own. Some times it doesn’t but most of the time. Where should I look?
Are any points being awarded before it auto launches? If so, there is an active switch on the playfield. If the game thinks there is a ball on the playfield, it will auto launch.
If that’s not it, check your trough connections. Unplug and reseat them.
Quoted from fastchef:I just noticed it awarding me loops when I’m hitting the flippers.
Check the loop switch, may just need a minor adjustment.
Quoted from ellwood:Can some excess energy from the flippers activate a bad switch?
Nope, different circuit, adjust the switch.
Quoted from ellwood:since adjusting the switch didn't work, I disconnected it. Problem remains the same. Thanks for the input, but looks like something else is going on...
you disconnected the switch and it’s still activating? That’s not possible. Put the game in switch test mode and bang on the playfield with your hand to see what’s registering.
Quoted from ellwood:The flippers activatie it. Or more accurate: just hitting a flipper grands me a loop. The problem isn't the switch itself, disconecting proves this. I'm going to let my distributer solve this, way out of my league
Is it possible the switch you unplugged wasn’t for the loop? Stern has been known to make connections incorrectly. I had ramp optos plugged in incorrectly on avengers. If you unplug it and go into switch test, does it still register?
Quoted from PinKopf:Anyone know any likely locations to have one of these 3/4 inch to maybe 1 inch long hex posts come loose from?
Was playing a multi-ball and this came rolling down the Playfield, but I can't spot where it's from. Two of these are under the clear plastic near the Mazer canon area, and two more under similar clear plastic just to the right of the right ramp - but those are all in place...[quoted image]
Typically they use those for wireform supports or spotlight posts, check all those points.
Quoted from TigerLaw:That is a great idea. Who is the best vendor to buy this from and what color through lighting looks best in this game?
Red is what you want for the trough and backboard. The stock trough lights go out during certain modes when the red gi lighting comes on. We offer interactive red trough and backboard lights that come on during these modes and are generally off otherwise.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-gi-led-strip-backboard-light-kit.
Quoted from AmericanZen:This may be a dumb question, but how do I install the update after I have successfully download it?
If it’s with a usb stick, turn game off, insert the usb stick into one of the slots on the cpu, turn on the game and follow on screen instructions. I never verify.
1 week later
Quoted from TheOriginalWiz:I did find these on thinyverse if anyone is interested. I know mezal mods did a lot of work but if someone was so inclined to go it alone, this is an option and it looks like they have been publicly posted since 2014.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3017750
and
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:542247[quoted image]
If you are pro owner, you can also print your own bridge. Different style than ours (not as nice imo 
, but it's an option for those inclined.) Search for train bridge and you'll probably find more options. You just cant sell them off thingiverse without permission.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2291136
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1 week later
Quoted from PinKopf:Fyi for the guides/rails causing playfield damage, I think there are several places that the guides are going to cut into the clear. In addition to the right side guide by the magnet, the front of the left-side guide of the left ramp lane was causing a little scuffing underneath too. I did Mylar and a washer there - though I cut a notch out of the washer, making it a C shape, so I could slip it around that bolt/under the guide without removing the guide. I cut notches into the mylar pieces for any bolts/posts so it can be slid under the guides without removal too. Only needed to loosen the one front nut pin this guide that way...
I noticed a bit of scuffing below the end of the guide along the back of the left spinner lane too - but a washer under that rail causes air balls on missed left ramp shots that hit the v-shaped cutout section on the end of that rail. I think that is a potential problem any of the rails with those v cutouts, as the washer lifts that guide 1-2mm, which gives some lift to the ball then when hitting the guide just right. I don't think that'll be a problem in the guides near the magnet, as the ball doesn't really directly hit those. Anyway, I went with just Mylar only added under that section in the left spinner lane. Hopefully that'll do.
I'm not sure it would ever cause a problem, but I went ahead and did washers under the two bolts and middle leg of the Mecha spinner lane guide too. Slight bit of clear damage showing under there too. No v-cutout to worry with there...
Who knows if any of these would ever progress to visible damage or chipping - I have no clear pooling around these guides, which I think may be key to the chipping, but better safe than sorry... I'm paranoid as I ended up with a couple chips up near the Mummy captive ball guides on my IMDN...
[quoted image][quoted image]
i just took a look at most of my guide rails and more than half of them were flush with the playfield so that there was no clearance and could eventually cause an issue. Luckily, there is no playfield damage and it seems that Stern did not crank down on these as the nuts holding the guides down were not on tight at all. Still, I want clearance between the bottom of the guide and the playfield, at least enough to slide a piece of paper underneath. To do this, all I really had to do was loosen the nuts a half to a full turn and tap on the screw to raise the guide just enough so a piece of paper slid underneath. I don't think there is any need for mylar or washers, but obviously that can't hurt if people want to go that far. Took me about 5 mins and I strongly suggest everyone take the time to look at the ball guides so they don't have any issues down the road. I thought stern had learned long ago that washers needed to be installed or at the very least the guides need to be installed so that they aren't touching the playfield, but that doesn't seem to have happened with the last three release (AIQ, Mando and now GZ).
For my game, the rails on the left side by the mazer cannon/spinner, along both sides of the magnet and mechagodzilla area needed to be raised.
Quoted from Chisox:Anyone have any luck adjusting their magna-grab? I tried adjusting the position of the magnet under the playfield and also via the software menu and my magnet always drops from this position onto the top of the upper flipper. I assume you’re supposed to be able to drill the loops directly from a drop?
[quoted image]
Had the same issue. As noted by others, raise your left back leg a little or lower the right one. What you might find after doing this is balls finding their way into the right outlane a little more often so either lower the post in the outlane to close it up or do some nudging.
Quoted from Palmer:Someone in this thread purchased that MachaGodzilla. Think it’s too large.
Yeah, way too tall. You have less than 6” in that area.
2 weeks later
Quoted from GoldenBeard:I know is repetitive but what’s the best most qualified OEM shaker motor for Godzilla?
I’ve ordered others in the past and they say the title of the game with it. I can’t find a Godzilla one does that. Does that mean I should wait until they release one?
Thank you in advance
There aren’t any game-specific shakers, just different brands. I usually get them from cointaker or pinball life. They are specific to spike games like GZ.
Quoted from GoldenBeard:Got it. So I should be looking for a Stern 2 Spike compatible shaker
Correct.
1 week later
Working jointly with Random Pinball (aka @toyotaboy), we have produced a 3-D illuminated burning building for the Pro backboard. The building easily attaches to the backboard with mounting tape and includes a controller that allows you to set different fading and flashing effects. I have provided a video below. This is now available on our website.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-pro-burning-building-mod
toyotaboy has also posted the STL file (below) for those who want to print and paint this themselves.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5197717
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1 week later
Quoted from tonyf1965:Did Leer mods make a different version? I would like to know how they are holding up? I think I like the lower profile look.
Yes, we make a different lower profile version. We have sold a lot of them, one failure. That one failure was due to a combination of a weak print from a different filament we used and the customer placing it in a vulnerable spot. Zero reports of failure otherwise. Very few mods can take a hit from a steel ball moving at 35mph, but some are weaker than others it seems.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-tesla-coils
Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:Question? I'm installing Cliffy's on the shooter lane, and would like to understand how to remove these threaded studs without doing something silly. Can anyone enlighten me?[quoted image]
Remove the nut holding them in underneath and punch them out, they are in pretty snug.
Edit, sorry, just saw two others give the same response.
1 week later
For those who might be interested, just posted our Interactive and Illuminated Oxygen Destroyer Mod in the GZ mod thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread/page/17#post-6755403
2 weeks later
Quoted from manadams:Borrowing a friends GZ LE and did an update via wifi, it's acting like it erased all scores and achievements which I wasn't expecting. Is there a wifi setting you have to change so it doesn't do that in the future?
Mine did the same thing, I updated via usb. Achievements are all still there in the app (36/72), but I received a lot of new high scores when the game ended that weren’t really high scores since I know I’ve put up higher scores prior. Like it reset some things.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:Install my LerMods oxygen destroyer yesterday. For those who haven't installed theirs yet, a couple of tricky parts needed to be worked through. The stock mounting screw is a tiny bit too short even after removing the washer, so I had to use a little museum putty (under the mount point) to hold it in place until I can get a longer screw. Also, getting the wire ran down the inlane\outlane guide without obstructing the ball was a bit challenging. I used some thoughtfully placed tape and zip ties to keep in the center. Affixing it with zip ties to the end posts alone allowed the harness to swim slightly and catch the ball in the outlane. Maybe if you are able to get the harness slack tight enough, the tape wouldn't be required. Overall, I like the way it looks, and whenever Stern adds the OD into the code, it will stand out (obviously) as a bigger feature in the game. Even without the code, it still looks cool.
[quoted image]
Hey, thanks for your feedback. Just a quick response. Not sure why the screw is short on your game, I used the same screw in my game with no issue. What I’ll do is include a longer screw going forward. On running the wire, it’s definitely a little tricky because the area is tight and the closest hole to feed the wire down is closer to the flipper, not much way around it, but with a little patience you can get it just right. We include zip ties to help secure the wire. As we state in the instructions, it’s better to run the wire on the inlane side than the outlane side. I had issues with the ball interfering on the outlane side, but inlane side it clears.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:I just finished reading the mod thread and seen where another Pinsider ran into the short screw problem. He said it was due to the extra thickness added by the plastic protector. That is going to be the issue with mine as well. I didn't think about that at the time when I was installing it. Maybe add a note in your instructions regarding the plastic protectors (as a reminder)? I think a lot of people here have the protectors installed. Thanks for a great mod!
I’m going to include a longer screw so nobody has an issue. What’s needed is a #6-32 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 screw.
On the OD insert not being integrated, it still lights up and flashes at times so the OD mod will still light, it’s just that it’s not coded.
Quoted from Muymanwell:Installed Lermods oxygen destroyer this morning. Ended up pulling up the the led board underneath the plastic so i could fish the wire through that way, otherwise it was a mostly painless install. It looks good, and doesn't block view of the outlane for saves.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Glad you like it, thx for posting. Feeding the wire down takes a bit of patience. I don’t find it blocks the outlane either, at least not for nudging, as it sits a little lower down.
2 weeks later
Quoted from red_rabbit:Is it possible that mods (spotlights, extra lights on toys or dark areas, etc) tapped into the regular GI can cause overcurrent? I have more than a few, could try plug them off and see...
Depends on how much current your mods are pulling. Overcurrent issues are typically caused by a short circuit or drawing too much power. If you do have alligator clips, just make sure they aren’t touching each other. Also, overcurrent issues in stern spike games have typically been caused by extra solder bits in the gi sockets causing a short circuit. Easiest thing to do first is disconnect your mods and see if that clears it. Are any of your GI lights out?
Quoted from MonsieurCS:no, but the readme said they were just placeholders
thx, missed that.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Nope. All good over here.
Same here, no issues, have played a few games over 20 mins. No fans, but I did replace the stern coil stops.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:I’m about to install Cliffy shooter lane protection in my Premium. There are step by step instructions with photos for another stern pin on his site, however it requires removing a fair amount of hardware, so I just want to be crystal clear before I dig in.
Can anyone please point me to photos or a video they made showing the install of Cliffy’s shooter lane protectors on a GZ? Thx.
No pics or videos, but they are very easy to install. Remove the apron, depending on model either two nuts underneath the pf or two nuts under the score card. Then remove the two flat metal bolts by removing the nuts underneath and punching them out. Install cliffy. For the right side protector, remove the first two screws holding the wood on, slide the cliffy underneath and reinstall the screws.
1 week later
Quoted from tbaum:Looks like I'll be picking up my premium this weekend!
I'm just trying to make sure I'm getting everything I need to get it running smoothly, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm picking up a set of Titan rubbers based on this suggested list (https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/2002), and 6 of their shiny pinballs.
Also getting the Pinball Life shaker motor, and their headphone jack/volume control (I have a baby, so I need to adjust it).
Planning on getting the side armor (it looks really nice) and art blades, but might need to budget for those.
I think people suggested replacing the flipper coils and sleeves right out of the box, but wanted to confirm this.
Anything I'm missing?
No reason to touch the flippers.
Quoted from tbaum:Tried that - didn't seem to do anything. I can try again though.
Is there at least a way to trick the coin slot so I can give myself credits in the meanwhile?
Which connector did you reseat? You have to do the one on the cpu in the backbox and the one at the coindoor board. I’ve had this issue too and reseating fixed it. Make sure all the pins are properly in the connectors.
The only thing stern will do is send you a new set of buttons, which likely are not the issue.
Quoted from tbaum:Hey all - thanks for the advice with the menu buttons. My distributor got back to me on Friday night and walked me through a bunch of other torubleshooting, and we got it working!
Huge thanks to Mike from GAP for taking the time on a Friday to get it working for me over the phone. Also, have to say, if your looking for a game and actually want to get it, he's a great guy to work with. After all the horror stories here about waiting 6+ months for a machine after putting down a deposit. I paid my deposit in March and got my game yesterday. He doesn't play around and only takes deposits for games he knows he's getting from the manufacturer.
Now I get to spend my Saturday fighting Kaiju!
[quoted image]
Glad to hear. What was the fix for the buttons so it can help others who might have the issue?
Quoted from rob3:reseated and changed the balls, did it again first game.
Check your shooter lane switch in test mode. Pop a ball into the shooter lane and see if it registers. If it doesn’t, adjust it so it does.
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from PinKopf:This may be a "duh" tidbit, but if you get a stuck ball on the back loop or Mecha's arm, open the coin door so the tilt is disabled and you can hulk shake the dang thing loose without hosing your game in progress.
Only proviso is the flippers are dead while open, so don't try during MB and for instance with the back loop make sure you close the door when the ball starts to roll free - it takes a second to restore power to the flippers to recover so you need to be quick to avoid draining.
Just enable coin door ball save in the settings. When you close the coin door, It will kick out a new ball if it drains with the coin door open.
Nope, not ours. We have been sold out, next batch next week I think. Batch is for 10, pm me if you want one.
Quoted from LeMansFan:Those have been sold out for a while now. If you know where I could get some I’m all ears!
Our original version….
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-tesla-coils
4 weeks later
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Anyone have mirror blades installed in their Godzilla? I have some to install that are actual pieces of polished metal, but I'm worried about the clearance of the playfield. I'm also not crazy about the idea of having to screw these into the sides of the cabinet. Anyone have any tips on the mirror blades issue?
Lift playfield into upright position. Use two spring hand clamps to hold the mirror blade in place at each end, make sure it’s aligned properly and screw them in. Helps to pre-drill a small hole. I typically only use screws in the front and back, middle not needed. Repeat for other side.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:The screw holes being on the bottom, I assume some kind of double sided tape should be used on the top edge of the blades?
That's good advice on the spring hand clamps, thanks!
No tape needed.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Is this normal? Even when pushed towards the back of the cabinet, the blades cover the washer that holds the flipper button assembly. This doesn't look ok..[quoted image]
Yes, that’s normal. Just loosen the screw and slide the blade under the washer. I’m not really sure why that washer is there, never had a flipper nut back off on me. There’s also a copper bracket with two screws that may interfere with the blades. You can remove it and put it in the coin box.
1 week later
Quoted from TomN:Just received my Pro the other day. Plays great but none of the service buttons work. (Volume, menu etc). Would someone mind taking some photos of the cpu node in the backbox? Specifically need the connector on the far right of the node. Interested in the wire order on the plug. I think I may have some in the wrong order.
Thanks
Unplug connector at the node board and the cpu in the backbox. That should get it going.
2 weeks later
Quoted from DiabloRush:I'm so used to this set, I don't think size. I just think, I need the yellow driver for that nut... I'll bet many long-time pinheads do exactly the same.
This is the one to get, should be mandatory for pinball ownership. Magnetic and hollow shafts for longer bolts. Will last a lifetime.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-647M-Magnetic-7-Piece/dp/B000MKIUYQ/ref=sr_1_2
Quoted from chuckwurt:I have these and they drop 1/4 screws all the time. Did I get a bad batch? Mine don’t seem magnetic at all.
You must have, mine hold the nuts and screws really well, have to pry the nuts off sometimes. Work great for installing shaker motors.
2 months later
For those who might be interested or have emailed us, our pro bridge is now back in stock. We have a batch of 10 available.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-pro-bridge-mod
PXL_20220929_180641769 (resized).jpg 4 weeks later
Inspired by and with permission from ABE_FLIPS, we have designed our own shooter lane bracket to ensure clean plunges. As many of you are undoubtedly aware, this game suffers from poor plunges that rattle around and prevent clean exits. In this game, clean exits are pretty important given the vast number of skill shots. Our bracket is a 100% fix and I have provided a video of it below. It is also basically invisible and you can barely tell it's even there. We are offering the bracket for $15 shipped on our website, but we are also happy to provide the STL file free of charge to those who want to print it themselves with a link provided below.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/abe-flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxJ1k_FU1im58LOMSEHx5j7F2E8gFyDs/view?usp=sharing
A little backstory on this. My 14 year old son designed the bracket and it was his first attempt at 3D printing. He is a freshman in high school and is taking an engineering class where they teach 3D printing. He has been asking me for something pinball related to print and I thought this would be a good project. He nailed the bracket on the first try, no modifications needed. All proceeds for this bracket will go to him and I'm hoping this encourages him to keep going. If you use the STL file to print yourself there is absolutely no obligation to send any money, but if you do want to send a couple of dollars, I will make sure he gets it. Just send me a PM for our payment info.
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Added 17 months ago: Edit: due to shipping, packaging, fees etc, we had to adjust the price to be $15 plus $1.99 shipping. You can still print for free.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:fooflighter cool to see all the different fixes, the skillshot works!
My idea, was to keep the ball 0.7 inches away from the right ballguide until it drops down onto the playfield. So that the ball can't fall onto the ballguide on the right hand side al it leaves the shooterlane. As long as it works its fine, right? Lermods took the very short lengh approach, and event that seems to work.
Great to see all those successful skilshots, I have seen too many rattling balls there... I guess I'm already traumatized
Ours is 1.7 mm thick and the tape we use is paper thin. Just played three more games and not a single rejection. I wonder if this will work on Rush, which has similar plunge issues.
Quoted from DugFreez:I was hoping someone would make one of these available if I need it.
My suggestion would be concerning the look of it. Extending the length of the printed part so it ended evenly with where the shooter ramp tip ends on the right would really make it look more like it was supposed to be there in my opinion. Ending just short of the end of the ramp looks strange to me.
...but, if it works, it works.
Two things. 1. You can't tell it's there unless you look for it or I told you it was there, especially from the player viewpoint. 2. The printer bed can't handle more than ~9" prints so you'd be looking at two pieces to print and mate together, not to mention a longer box to ship in.
Quoted from Dantesmark:Ill prolly just take them off… doesnt seem like theyre needed.
Not needed. When I install mirror blades, I remove the top screw and place it in the coin box. Then I loosen the bottom one slightly and let it hang down so it doesn’t interfere.
Quoted from ExSquid:oh man, can someone please make/sell this.
Reason : me trying to do anything ever at anytime....[quoted image]
We have one here: https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/abe-flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix
It’s nearly invisible and is a 100% fix.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Glad you offer this for sale thanks
However, anyone in Australia have this shooter lane fix? I can't pay $57 USD for shipping, with the exchange rate thats $100 shipping for a $20 part
Quoted from Apinjunkie:Reach out to Lermods, I believe he offers the STL file for free so you can have it printed locally.
Yes, we posted the stl file, you can print it yourself or find a friend to print it for you. The link is in this thread and in the standalone thread I created, just search my username. Shipping overseas on something like this doesn’t make much sense on its own.
Quoted from Nikko:This Abe-Flips fix would be a great project for Cliffy maybe? I think a stainless one would look great.
It needs to be thicker than the stainless he uses for protectors and I’d guess it would bump the cost up quite a bit. The black is pretty much invisible.
2 weeks later
We have a new batch of illuminated and interactive oxygen destroyers now available.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-oxygen-destroyer-od-mod
110AB74E-52A4-4DF4-A87D-BC34655341BA (resized).jpeg64687E80-C6CE-4C57-A0FA-AEB9F12A81BC (resized).jpegI have two Godzilla’s with illuminated and interactive trains available. Fits all versions. Toho Godzilla used. The trains are wired to be lit/flickering all the time or interactive with the train insert in front of the magnet.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-godzilla-with-trains
9CD89874-5147-4124-B44B-547AB49663CE (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Heat ray was causing crashes.
I had this exact issue, thought it was a one-time issue or something up with my game. Glad they fixed it. Game would lock up and all lights would go out. Only way to fix it was to turn the game off.
1 month later
Quoted from BrokenChair:Is this a new and upgraded shooter lane fix I got one from lermods but disappointed with how it’s operating do you happen to have a link ?
Surprised to hear this as feedback has been very positive. Maybe there is something else wrong with your shooter rod alignment. Is the shooter rod hitting the ball in the center? The shooter rod in my game was aligned perfectly, but I was still getting rattling when launching the ball. The bracket has corrected the rattling 100% for me. Others have told me it’s been an 80-90% fix for them.
Quoted from evanc:It actually appears to have been removed from their website, weird. Maybe they're out of stock. But yes, I also replaced my lermods one with this. It is a night and day difference. The freddy's mod seems factory. You can see the mod here and there's a link to the website as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread/page/70#post-7308714
If you want to email them about it, their stock number for the item is GZ-SO
Don’t disagree with you, theirs is very nice, but ours is pretty invisible and you would not know it’s there unless someone told you. It’s also a very inexpensive and effective fix.
1 week later
Quoted from mjmpin:1. Shooter lane. I have read a bit about this issue (inconsistent plunges, etc) I obtained the shooter lane fix mod (the stainless one) and it has NO EFFECT, I just ordered the plastic one from lermods, but with low confidence, since its basically the same. I have lowered auto plunge coil power, but I still get 1 or 2 out of 5 shots that either bang around and lose smoothness/speed. Or with a manual hard plunge will actually go up out of the slot beside mecha figure on the right?!?
Make sure the plunger is striking the ball in the center. Rest the ball in the shooter lane and see how it sits against the shooter rod. If it’s off center, you need to adjust that by moving the shooter plate.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Please note that some Godzilla machines do not have the playfield centering pieces installed on the sides of the cabinet. So the playfield loosely floats a little left to right. That means centering the shooter on the ball becomes impossible. Mine doesn't have the pieces for example
I took those pieces out when I installed mirror blades, I don’t have any shooter lane issues.
4 weeks later
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:What is this shooter lane fix? I just got my premium a few weeks ago and I have noticed the skill shot is difficult to make due the ball losing momentum randomly due to rattles up the lane. I'll take the translucent one if that's what I need to remedy the situation.
The shooter lane plunge on GZ has been a significant problem with balls rattling around and not exiting cleanly. Makes it difficult to collect the skill shots. My 14 year old son designed a bracket to address the issue. We offer the stl file for free for those who can print on their own or it can be purchased from our site.
If you want to print it and give it to your friends privately, that's cool. If you want to give it to a friend and have them print it for you, that's cool too.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/abe-flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix
Link to the file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxJ1k_FU1im58LOMSEHx5j7F2E8gFyDs/view?usp=drivesdk
Quoted from Mattyk:I though Abe Flips came up with the shooter lane fix?
It was his idea, but our design. We gave him full credit by calling it the Abe Flips shooter lane fix, we got permission from him to go ahead and make the design and offered it for free for anyone who could print it.
It's more sad and disappointing to see some pinsiders being so quick to jump on us. I did not tell Brucipher he could not give them away for free. I merely asked him to note that they were our brackets in his post to give us credit. I didn't think that was too much to ask.
1 month later
We have one Godzilla eye shooter rod in stock. Made by Pinball Mods Brasil. Handcrafted and hand painted. Professional high resistance resin and high quality clear coat.
https://lermods.com/products/godzilla-pinball-shooter-rod
IMG_0042 (resized).jpeg 3 months later
Quoted from barndawg:So I installed the Lermods shooter lane fix and it made things better on my Godzilla (Premium) but not exactly great. Are there other things I should look at tweaking to get cleaner plunges? I still hear some rattle, still occasionally have manual and auto plunges seem to get stuck next to the mechagodzilla feature, etc...
First thing to check is that your shooter rod is striking the ball dead center, top to bottom and left to right. The shooter lane fix can’t correct for that.
3 weeks later
Quoted from hawkfanz:What the best way to retrieve a stuck ball without having it drain and end that turn? My friend had an unbelievable round going but got a ball stuck in Mechagodzilla's arm. Can I just retrieve the ball and drop it in the shooter lane and have it sit while I put the glass back up will that just auto-plunge?
there is a setting called coin door ball save, enable it. Open the door, remove glass, let the ball drain and once you close the coin door, the ball will eject and restart the same ball.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Harvester:Hello pinside! I could use ya’lls help one more time while demonstrating my ignorance in wiring/power supply. I have several LED mods I am planning on installing in my GZ Premium: scoop, trough lights; back panel light; Drake & Oil building by tdiddy. I’m concerned with power supply and stressing node boards. I think I need to add an 8-way splitter as sold at PBL. However, most of the mods have a 2-pin connector. Being better at math than wiring, what do I do to use this type of 3-pin splitter? Is there an alternative? Do I even need to worry about this and just connect them to bulbs (except back panel light) I’ve researched and keep getting lost in the terminology and forums where folks have added some complicated power sources which are awesome, but seem overkill for my needs. I massively appreciate any advice.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You need to first know the voltage of those mods. I’m guessing mods with that 2 pin connector are 5v and you should be fine tapping off the GI. The splitter you show is for 12v mods.
2 weeks later
I picked up a premium today that had these towers in them that I don’t want. The top of one of them is loose, just needs to be glued back on, it’s not broken. They worked when they were in the game earlier today. $80 shipped.
Edit : sold
I have an official stern Godzilla egg shooter rod with backing plate and shooter hardware…full assembly. It is in like new condition. Stern sells these for $179.99 plus shipping and is sold out. I’ll offer it for $125 shipped within the US.
edit: sold
4 weeks later
We have received a number of emails from customers asking why we don’t extend our Abe flips shooter lane bracket. The short answer is we never felt the need, but given the demand we are going to offer it for a nominal fee. The extender is a 5” 3D printed bracket that matches our existing bracket and extends to the end of the shooter lane.
All new brackets purchased will include the main piece and the extender and we are only raising the price by $1 to $16 plus actual shipping cost. If you already purchased a shooter lane bracket from us, you can buy just the extender for $1 plus actual shipping cost. It has been a 100% fix for me as shown in the video.
If you want to print the file for free, here is the link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oYzeb2omf9Frx4iMe-5HguZLo-q6pARn/view?usp=drivesdk
Video of the fix:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/04c1XWpC5WU0OGcXdEfTwojag
Link to our website:
https://lermods.com/products/abe_flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix?variant=47130840662338
IMG_0603 (resized).jpegIMG_0606 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from JBtheAVguy:Hardwire was the way to go. Repeaters shouldn't even be on the market, they just don't work.
We have an eero set up. I get the same speeds that are coming off the hard wire throughout my house. All of my games are hooked to it and I have no issues downloading code. Also have it hooked to a fire stick and stream everything off it. Previously, we had some no name brand of repeater and it was garbage.
Deal of the day for Prime Members: Amazon eero 6 mesh Wi-Fi system | Supports speeds up to 500 mbps | Connect to Alexa | Coverage up to 4,500 sq. ft. | 3-pack, one router + two extenders, 2020 release https://a.co/d/8moO9HQ
1 week later
Quoted from Pinphila:Question - just noticed my insert lamps appear to reset during game play. They all flash in a clockwise patter every 5 seconds. Anyone have this issue before I call tech?
You likely have a loose connector on node board 8 or 9. Is it all the inserts or just a group of them? It also could be a loose connector on one of the big led boards under the playfield. I’d unplug and reseat them. Page 11 in the manual provides a rendering of where the boards are located as well as a table showing what each board controls. That diagram also shows the connections to the cabinet node board and cpu so maybe reseat those connectors too.
2 weeks later
New batch of oxygen destroyers now available. There are currently 7 left.
https://lermods.com/products/godzilla-pinball-interactive-oxygen-destroyer-od-mod
3CE2443C-AC56-4679-9DE5-DD97B2D9A62B (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Nicholastree:Anyone encounter problems with high power not shutting off when the coin door is open? My tech and I spent some time trying to fix it but couldn’t. He’s an electrical engineer, a long-time collector and has pinball machines on location. But we’re stumped.
Could be an issue with the coindoor board. Unplug and reseat the connectors at the coindoor and at the cpu in the backbox. Since your friend is an EE, I’m going to assume you guys tested for broken wires .
1 month later
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Tail whip. No question.
Whatever shot I’m aiming for 
1 week later
Quoted from Chopplebrains:Speaking of plastic protectors and mods…I have a few places in the game where I need to install taller posts. Talking about the metal studs all over the game that commonly hold plastics (but not wire forms).
They all seem be be #6 top and bottom threads and all seem to be 2” long. I can’t find #6 studs anywhere online that are longer. Does anyone know where I can get some?
The other option seems to be get ones that are #8s on the bottom, but that sounds like a lot of work since I’d need to put in new metal under the playfield for the posts to screw into. What did others do that have mods (like Tesla towers or moving Godzilla figure) with plastic protectors also in the game?
Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973315160 Slotted Round Machine Screws, 6-32 x 2-1/2, Piece-20, zinc https://a.co/d/45Kj7vm
Quoted from Chopplebrains:Thanks Lermods - but I’m looking for this type of post instead of a screw - any idea where I can find #6 (top and bottom) that’s at least 2 1/4”?[quoted image]
Look for threaded rod 6-32 or order the screws I listed and dremel the head off.
Quoted from gandamack:Just installed a brand new cabinet node board. Also installed shaker motor. For some reason my menu buttons are not working. Rechecked all connections going into new cabinet node board and all seems snug. Any ideas on why the menu buttons (all four) are inop? Attached is a photo of the connections. [quoted image]
Check the connector in the backbox, unplug and reseat. Page 24 in the manual.
Quoted from H8ROADS:Is there an adjustment to the ramp that would help prevent this or is heating up the mecha really the only way to prevent this? I feel like some sort of guard would have been ideal.
[quoted image]
Maybe try moving his arm back to close the gap with the sidewall.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Hey, thanks for responding.
I’ve checked the Opto front of building all is good.
I’ve now just replaced the switch and same issue again.
All good in test mode but what I’m finding is when in game it’s intermittent.
When I activate the gate microswitch manually within gameplay you will hear the click ok on the new switch but the score doesn’t increment. Then when I hit other switches and play again…. I’ll manually activate that same gate microswitch then it increments the score.
Very bizarre.
Pics of switch out .. I replaced with a DB5.
I’m guessing the score should increment in the game when the switch is activated no matter what?
Cheers..[quoted image][quoted image]
A few things to try.
Go into switch test mode and bang on the playfield to see if anything activates. If it does, start there.
Unplug the switch and opto connectors under the playfield and plug them back in to make sure there is a good connection.
Most flaky behavior in these games is caused by bad optos. Even though they may seem ok when you test them, in game play they could still give issues.
As for your question on the diode, I’m not sure, but look at how other switches are wired, they should all be the same.
Quoted from rollinover:Got error on my pro
Check switch left slingshot
Coil works in test.
But the contacts don’t seem to be very close in gameplay when rubber hit.
Anywhere else I should look or is this likely a manual adjustment of the contact?
If it’s giving a switch error, it’s not the coil. One of your leaf switches isn’t working properly. As you said, likely just needs adjusting.
1 week later
Quoted from PinMonk:Wow, that's crazy. I could see one or maaaaybe two, but I'd never risk 5 or 6 let alone 20.
Twenty additional leds will not blow anything in a game. Chris describes it as a rat's nest and his pic confirms it, but his pic shows a lot more than 20 leds.
Quoted from Tophervette:This is interesting in that as Godzilla owners add mods with extra LEDs tied to the GI circuit. I wish I could count how many LEDs there are in the Atomic Godzilla, back box breath, Stumblor's Neon sign, lollipops, saucer, back buildings, Naegel oil building, Diddy's Drake building, Tesla towers, Oxygen Destroyer, and Maser Cannon? Then the ones I don't have yet. The under cabinet lighting, side blades and the LEDs that run along the edges of the glass. Now I know they all do not run off the GI circuit, some run off a separate power supplies.
It depends on the voltages and connections of your mods. The backbox connection provides 2a, but you should not draw more than 80% of that so figure 1.6a. The GI circuit has much less than that, but a few leds strips and a few mods with a couple of leds is not going to harm anything. The undercab lighting will be your biggest draw, but it depends on how they are run (e.g., full brightness draws more than a flash). if you are running off a separate power supply, nothing to worry about.
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