Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Looks good, still want to see a VUK protector, do you know if he is working on that Brian?

Quoted from Magicmike0:

YES! Awesome! I bought this figure because I thought it looked best with Zombie Yeti’s artwork! Wasn’t sure if it’d fit as far as size, but I loved the old school look of it, and the mix of Green colors used. Almost bought a different one but once I saw this one, I just knew it’d be perfect! Now I know I made the right choice!!! Will be putting it in this week! A couple questions. Is the heat ray effect just lights reflecting or you got a light under it somehow? Love the look! Also, How’d ya secure yours? Last question…do you just take the old one out still attached to the plastic? Thanks for posting!
Here’s a few pics I took of him messing around when I got it last weekend.
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Quoted from Magicmike0:

Hey I got mine from mercari. You can get it anywhere…eBay, Amazon. It’s normally around 40.00 and up…so if you find it cheaper it’s a good deal. I only paid 30.00 plus shipping.
It’s a NECA Godzilla 1956 poster version
There are other versions but I liked the way this one sorta kept it old school and yet looked more similar to Zombie Yeti’s art package, than other versions.
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Quoted from Taygeta:

Stern quality control is like a lottery, some games have good clear, some don't. I have 2 games made in 2017 that both have thicker clear than games made in 2018 and 2020. In home use, though, it likely isn't going to matter or wear down. My IMDN was routed, has 8000 plays and doesn't have the best clear on it but still looks and shoots fine.
Don't overthink it and enjoy your game!

Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Playfield-Protectors and a few other European companies have complete sets of plastic protectors, but it was pointed out that placing a plastic protector on top of the existing playfield plastic will just raise the impact zone, thereby making it even TIGHTer... (Update: see preceding post )
A simple solution that... someone (can't recall who) posted was to take a small piece of target foam, use scissors/blade to make it half as thick, and place it on top of the impact spot. I tried that as well, and it seems to work quite well as a practical solution, and since the art on the plastic is of crumbling mortar, it doesn't really clash, either.

Quoted from PinKopf:

Yep, just finished adding a bit of Mylar and washer to mine - similar scuffing/damage.
I also went ahead and added washers under both bolts on the opposite side magnet rail and a think piece of Mylar also. That rail has a folded bit that I theory should prevent most cuting into the clearcoat, but the is a bit at the end that still to me like like it could scuff. I'm debating if those washers on side are a good idea.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Palmer:

Got around to painting my Godzilla bank. Looks better in person. Pictures make it look brighter than it is. Really happy how it turned out.
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Quoted from RikV:

These are all great suggestions and I’ll add one more that I haven’t seen mentioned yet. I have found that the return spring on the plunger is weak on all my Sterns. I believe this can make the auto launch inconsistent due to the mech not being returned to the same state each time after launching the ball.
I have yet to find a good replacement spring (I usually try a couple new ones each time I order parts). In the meantime I stretch the stock spring out a bit and put it back in the mech. Seems to help quit a bit. Something easy to try.

Quoted from EaglePin:

I had what might be a similar issue on my Jurassic Park. Game would start out fine with auto launch strength but then the launcher power would start to get crazy weak after a very short time. I powered down and then turned it back on awhile later. Same thing happened - started out fine then progressively got way weaker.
At first I replaced the coil sleeve and jiggled on the coil plunger and that fixed it. But then about a week later it happened again. So that time I jiggled & pushed on & reseated all the connection points from the coil to the board and it instantly went back to being 100% strength. It must have been a loose connection somewhere along that line causing it, but I don't know for sure which spot was the issue since I pushed on them all before testing it again. It fixed the issue though, and it's never happened again since then.
If this is similar to what you're experiencing then I'd suggest working a bit on each connection point from the auto launcher to the board to see if it resolves. Here's a post I made about it in the JP forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/93#post-5491214

Quoted from crwjumper:

Here’s mine. Works great. No issues.[quoted image]

Quoted from crwjumper:

Double-sided tape. Works well and no issues after hundreds of plays.

Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Another approach someone mentioned was cut out a piece of thin flat plastic from say a milk jug, 3M tape or similar to connect to the Tesla tower base then drill the hole in the flat plastic.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I *think* the quick just doesn't do the verify step.

Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

Love the tail! Which figure are you using there?

Quoted from Bohdi:

Says 10" though. Isn't that too big?? Perfect tho

Quoted from Bohdi:

Sounds like more work than need be to me, but. I like the look of this figure best from what i've found so far. Just want one that will fit without cutting and shaving here and there. Who know's, maybe....Thanks..

Quoted from digitaldocc:

That tail looks sweet. Your mod really gives godzilla a sense of scale that works

Quoted from gambit3113:

Those that have received their Flamin' Frames speaker lights, when did you order? Just trying to gauge where the orders are now. I put in on 2/7.

Quoted from awesome1:

I like the feel of the Pinball Life Perfect Play flipper rubber the best. I usually use the stock rubber for a week or two and then change over. Feel is very similar to me.
Superbands will last much longer for ring locations and I use them on all posts sleeves and small post rubber locations. They also stay cleaner. I do use a Superband flipper rubber on the upper left flipper on AIQ because it takes a beating and Superbands are the only style that will last.

Novus 1 on a microfiber towel will easily wipe off any black dust build up on the rubbers.

Quoted from rue_:

Do you like the design on the Stern side armor? We are talking about making a run of them with the Kenji Japanese letters for Godzilla instead.

Quoted from KingVidiot:

So I ordered one of these speaker light kits back in mid January and still haven’t received any word. Anyone in a similar boat? I heard these take a while, but…
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Quoted from ChipScott:

So behind the translite, I used/taped a plastic sheet running from the top of the back box (midway front-to-back) to the metal bar in between the translite and the speaker panel. I then attached a 20- SMD warm white strip running at an angle behind Godzilla's fire breath, and 2 Comet fire post lights at the bottom left (at that area of a burning explosion). I then hooked these lights (with Comet matrix system and alligator clips) to the Red portion of GI and received a very nice effect.
I made a small YouTube video of the effect for those interested.

Quoted from DanTheMan:

Has anybody recently received their order from Doug? When did you order?

Quoted from rob3:

35+6 shipping. You’ll want one for the shooter lane switch too though IMO

Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

for those having problems with usb updates, you have to use the left usb port, not the right one. you will need to remove the wireless adapter from the lefft port and insert your usb drive to being the update. strange that theyre not ambidextrous. but it works only on the left side port.

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

For those who are interested in the dimensions, here is another version you can try:
thickness = 0.07 inch
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Quoted from Tomass:

Mine is loose and someone on here said that is correct. I can freely spin mine in its bracket. The nut is tight but the magnet is free to spin.

Quoted from awesome1:

No issues for me. Maybe you have a switch problem.

Quoted from acedanger:

.

Very nice!! Great work.

Quoted from arcadem:

The TILTTOPPER GZ version has not shipped yet. Spoke to them a couple of weeks ago and was told that they are making a few changes to the mounting system and they will be shipping very soon. As soon as I get mine (in first batch), I will post.

Quoted from Sorokyl:

Nothing since you last asked. he is MIA and I would not expect any significant changes added to this game.