(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 27,318 posts
  • 1,639 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Rexdeanrds
  • Topic is favorited by 1,028 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 284 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 893 votes
    63%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 243 votes
    17%

(1420 votes)

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20231130_201100877 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240412_180754164 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240415_201849415 (resized).jpg
IMG_2601 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2538 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_1444 (resized).jpg
IMG_7006.jpg
gdz opto receiver (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240408_215256_Gallery (resized).jpg
IMG_1439 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240408-172718 (resized).png
Screenshot_20240408-172819 (resized).png
IMG_0307 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5052 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1374 Removing the ugly Insider sticker on the backbox. Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #1795 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Magnet swing adjustments Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #3000 Register Your Game With Insider Connected Posted by TrixTrix (2 years ago)

Post #3546 TECH:LIGHTING. Backbox brightness adjustment PSA Posted by Chisox (2 years ago)

Post #4481 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Building stepper adjustment settings Posted by Palmer (2 years ago)

Post #6364 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Bridge and Building adjustments Posted by koops (2 years ago)

Post #6745 MOD: Flame Speaker light kit Posted by DugFreez (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider duderegular.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

14
#9356 2 years ago

Gotta make a spot in the game room for the newest addition.

20220406_153613.jpg20220406_153613.jpg
#9364 2 years ago

Wow! Second game I hit 450 million or so. My previous high was something like 160 million playing on location. I don't have a clue what I am doing other than shoot the ramps to light a battle. Going to be fun learning this one.

20220406_205054.jpg20220406_205054.jpg
#9368 2 years ago

Pic of the magnet plastic on my pro. Not sure if it is different than others machines or not. Build date last week of March.

20220406_225616.jpg20220406_225616.jpg
#9577 2 years ago

Loving the game. Not close to a billion yet, but cracked 600 a couple of times. I had started with the game pretty steep and back it off to around 7.25 right now. Its really fast for sure. I may go down a bit more still.

One thing that seems to be an auto drain for me is when all the lights go dark and the ball is still flying around. I haven't pinpointed the exact moments (jackpots/mode completions), but it happens and I can't see anything when it does. Anyone else have an issue with that?

#9918 2 years ago
Quoted from Kent_Diego:

Here is my idea for improving magnet grab, place a 2mm silicone bumper pad on side of lane to jog ball and slow down a bit so magnet will work better.[quoted image]

I am going to guess that the little bumber thing will end up somewhere else shortly after you put it in there.

#9920 2 years ago
Quoted from Kent_Diego:

I have had great luck with these in other games. Clean surface with alcohol first and they stay on.

You put them on ball guides? I wouldn't want something slowing down a wallop shot personally and potentially end up not making it since its already super tough to make.

2 weeks later
#10419 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Just refashed the 0.94 image onto an SD to see if the software was bad, and still same issue.
It seems to have something to do with the Train mode.
As soon as it starts, the shaker goes bananas, and only draining or turning it off fixes it.
Here what was reflected in the score after about 5 seconds of the train mode running.
Any ideas???
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just go into the service menu and get into switch test as others have mentioned.

#10421 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I have gone into test, but how do I find out what switches are not functioning properly?
From what I can tell, you have to push each switch, and then it displays on screen.
I recall Whitestar games having a grid, and any boxes that appeared indicated an active switch, making it easy to determine what I wrong.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

So you got a pretty good idea of where the problem is already, which helps. And switch test modes. The optical switches should be closed and push button style switches should be open. If there is an optical switch that is not going from clothes to open when you break the beam with your finger or a ball, then that is a problem. For a push button style switch, it should go from open to closed when you actuate the switch itself. If you have any switches that aren't doing those things then you should have identified your problem.

#10500 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I’m seeing this:
[quoted image]

Same. Hit but it now and its the same too.

#10567 1 year ago

Installed art blades, quiet fan, and a PBL translucent green shooter rod. I hadn't installed art blades before, only mirror blades. I did the spray bottle with soapy water. Seemed to work well. They look pretty good in there and brighten the game up a touch vs the black side walls.

I am still getting my butt kicked when all the GI cuts out and insert light shows are going off. The ball is flying around and really tough to see. My overhead lighting is can lights and put a pretty bad glare, so I have to leave one on kinda behind the game, but its not great that way either.

#10569 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

There should be settings for flasher and insert brightness. Try lowering those to help with the contrast.

Ya also I was thinking of maybe adding some lighting or tweaking the apron lights tied to the coin door for a small amount of always on light. I will tweak the settings first though.

#10585 1 year ago
Quoted from Kent_Diego:

DudeRegular I added LED jewel post lights and connected to always on +5V. Best mod ever and it is cheap. It adds just enough light so you can see the ball in blackouts. [quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! That is one I was considering as well. I have some in my LED stash. That is a much shorter place to grab voltage from than what I was thinking initially. I was thinking about the coin door lights, but that would require some pretty long wires going to the back of the cab then all the way to the front of the playfield again. I also remembered I have some stadium style lights that I haven't really used much, but might fit the bill as well. The post lights is a much less intrusive solution though. I like it.

#10632 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The screwdriver should have a very long shaft on it so your handle is past the tip of the plunger. If not, have a friend pull the plunger back to get it out of the way while you get it loose.

Maybe just take the rod out instead?

2 weeks later
#11213 1 year ago
Quoted from Kent_Diego:

DudeRegular I added LED jewel post lights and connected to always on +5V. Best mod ever and it is cheap. It adds just enough light so you can see the ball in blackouts. [quoted image][quoted image]

So I ended up doing a slightly different approach. I used the connection you showed, but instead wired to the two led pcb's in the apron holes. I will see how it plays this way.

#11343 1 year ago

Cracked 2 billion tonight for the first time. Got terror and monster zero. Completely bombed monster zero by draining out on my last ball with 25 million though. Missed a 25x5 destruction jackpot.

I am really appreciating the always on apron lights. They are extending my games for sure.

4 weeks later
#12358 1 year ago

Gonna soon be listing my Godzilla pro for trade or maybe sell.....
Because I found a premium coming this month!

#12406 1 year ago
Quoted from bloodonthepins:

Right, I see that, and that confirms my flippers need adjusting, but how do you actually adjust them?

This vid is for a slightly different issue, but the adjustment info will work.

#12409 1 year ago
Quoted from bloodonthepins:

I still don't get what needs to happen once those Allen screws are loosened or tightened. Once loosened, the flipper will move freely, and you need to re-tighten with the flipper in the proper alignment?

yes, put the bat in the correct lower position with the mech resting against the stop. Then tighten it down. Also you want to make sure to have a bit of space between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. Marcos sells a nice little tool, but you can also use a credit card or similar.

#12542 1 year ago
Quoted from ax014:

All this shaker motor talk has me looking for guidance. I've got a shaker motor installed on my pro- it rattles the machine like crazy! I have the shaker settings set to "Minimal". Do any of you shaker motor enthusiasts have any tips for reducing the rattling, and/or tips to improve my situation so I could run the motor on the default setting?

The shaker setting in the menu doesn't change the strength or force of the motor but rather effects the timing/usage of it. If you want to change the strength, pop off the top and change the offset of the weights by loosening the set screws, adjust, tighten, test, repeat.

1 week later
#12742 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Update on the trough issue.
Stern responded to me with:
The first thing I would suggest is to disconnect the trough optos, and let's see if the game is still registering the switches with the two boards disconnected.
Anyone know how to do this?

Unplug the connectors to the two circuit boards, one on each side of the trough.

#12766 1 year ago

No man, its not released yet. Nor a topper for Rush or Mando either.

#12933 1 year ago
Quoted from viper001:

This is more of a new Stern question than specifically a Godzilla question but I figured I would ask it here anyway. This was my first NIB in quite a while, they used to include paperwork to mail in to register ownership of a new game. I didn't see anything like that in the packet on this one. Is there a game registration process now or do they just trust you when you call with an issue and they have to ship parts out? The game is registered in the Insider Connected system, maybe that counts??
TIA!

Mine was taped to the glass I think.

#13077 1 year ago

My premium is getting to the dealer this week and hopefully to me by early next week. I sold my pro a few weeks ago and am really looking forward to having the game back at the house.

#13121 1 year ago
Quoted from 77CMG77:

Hey Guys,
just joined the Club yesterday and I love it! Just got one question, more on the IC side. It´s a used GZ Pro with the IC-kit. So it has already a specific gameroom. How can I register the machine to my gameroom? On my NIB Mando it got there more or less automatically, but on this machine I can´t find any option on the machine or the Stern IC-Website where I can register it?
Can anybody help?
Thanks!

Someone posted back a bit that GZ can be unregistered from the game itself, but you must have one of the more recent code updates as that feature was added and not present from the beginning.

#13127 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

Hah yea I know, it's the extra weight and also the stairs have a sharp and smaller 90 degree turn which makes moving anything up stairs a minor nightmare. Furniture was bad, but 250lb+ Pinball machines... eek

New house time.

#13238 1 year ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

I was at Cointaker's over this past weekend and he had a leader board on a TV, can this be done at home? If so, how do you set it up or how does it work?

Verified locations only for now. Its high on the wish list for many folks though.

#13262 1 year ago

Just got the call to schedule delivery of my Godzilla premium! Unfortunately he was calling from Texas. I am not in Texas...

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#13523 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is the building shot tighter on the premium? I don’t have a ton of time on one, but played in a tournament Sunday, and I would get rejects to the building a lot if my shot wasn’t perfect.

I thought the opposite. I played more premium on location before getting a pro. The building shot seemed much tighter on the pro I had. My premium gets here this week if things work out, so I can get a better idea.

#13552 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Let's end this debate now. Here is a short, unfiltered vid of SpeakerLightKits.com flaming lights. Can someone post a video of cointaker and myth installed on their game? I have no stake in this, have never talked to the owner, just a customer. Let us decide in a head to head comparison which looks better.

He just agreed to take it to the other thread. Let him please.

2 weeks later
#14205 1 year ago
Quoted from Pensfan112:

Godzilla has been at my place since Friday but already pulling in some new pinballers. One thing I noticed is maybe 10 percent of the time if you don't get a perfect lock shot into the building it will go in but doesn't register the lock. Ball search usually finds it but sometimes doesn't. Any body see this thinking I just need to just check the switch and adjust it a bit. The other is the tesla spinner shot sometimes goes straight down the middle. Seems like something is kicking it out when it comes around but it's so fast I can't tell what. Anybody have this and figure it out?

Quoted from zacaj:

Is anyone having issues where a center spinner shot won't hug the left orbit cleanly, and instead goes straight down the middle? Can't figure out what might be causing it

Quoted from Hallucinate:

Over the weekend I picked up a digital level and confirmed that my GZ Pro is level left to right and 6.5 degrees front to back. Unfortunately, I still get SDTM drains when I hit the center spinner. In fact, I just played a quick game and it happened twice. Both shots were really nice, strong shots that ripped the spinner and neither touched the touched the upper flipper on the way down. One moment you've got Ebirah in hot water and the next moment - drain. I guess I can deflect the ball with the upper flipper when it comes out of the loop or else just make softball shots to the center spinner. This doesn't happen when I make a gentle shot - only when I crush the spinner.
Any other thoughts or adjustments that I could make to prevent this?

I am getting this same thing on my new premium. Fast shots to the center spinner and sometimes to the loop will drain straight down the middle. The ball doesn't hug the ball guide on the left above the flipper when it happens. It is already moving towards the center of the playfield well before coming out of that lane.

My game is level side to side and currently at 6.8 degrees setup with a digital inclinometer.

#14237 1 year ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Game level != Playfield level. Maybe you are talking about the playfield but just making sure..

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Reduce the flipper power on all flippers.

Quoted from fooflighter:

When you say it's level side to side are you taking different measurements at different points in the play field? It is possible to have a little bit of flex in the playfield and while it may show level side to side at the midpoint of the play field your top end may be leaning the opposite way slightly.
Also consider maybe taking your flippers down about 5 or 10 points in power setting until your playfield and rails get broken in a little bit more then once the consistency is there turn them back up

Yes game is was leveled at the playfield in more than one spot, not from the glass. I did drop the flippers down 5 points each and ended up putting up a nice game. The feed out of the left ramp lane from either loops or center spinner was better, but still had some issues. There is no amount of nudging that is really going to help when it happens either (outside of a massive slide save), because the ball isn't on the ball guide. On the pro I had before this premium, even a screaming exit from that location was a good shot at a live catch or a bounce over to the right flipper.

#14239 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

This is how my pro behaves. Even when it bounces off the guide, it’s still a very makable life catch or at least easily get the flipper on it.

Ya that is what made the difference so noticeable for me. I could pretend to be a good player live catching a fast shot to the center spinner.
I am leaning towards the ball guide directly behind the building where the loop drop meets. Shots through the building don't seem to have the issue.

#14382 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright my left ramp just stopped registering this week, any suggestions?

Test the switches in switch test, then check your wiring next.

#14427 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Need some help. Have had my Premium for two weeks and out of the box had problems with the building not always detecting balls entering the VUK. As suggested in this thread I completely replaced the opto in the VUK with a new transmitter and receiver. I was sceptical as the "old" opto was working fine when testing it. The problem is still occouring. About every five times a ball enters the VUK it isn´t detected and stays in the trough. Eventually the game goes to ball search, where as the VUK-coil sends the ball up to the top. Sometimes the game recognise the ball in this situation and sometimes not (making the game go further into ball search which results in the balls on top of the building going SDTM).
Are there more optos involved that I need to check? Is it possibly something else?

On the pinball show podcast they just talked about the same issue. It sounds like the ball when it comes to rest not fully breaking the beam and keeping the opto closed. I think he mentioned the gap from the subway to the vuk being the issue.

#14430 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

I was thinking about something like that, but thought the space was too narrow. When inspecting more carefully I now realise it can actually be just about enough for the ball to stay out of the opto-beam. In order to shorten the space I went ahead and bent the lip where the ball comes down into the subway (se Photo 1) and moved the entire subway further towards the VUK-kicker (se Photo 2). First try worked fine. I will report back after more testing!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome!

1 week later
#14672 1 year ago
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

Maybe this has been said before, so forgive me, but with GZ being a hit, it seems like it would be a great idea for Keith to do Kong next, no? I mean, there's so many people who would naturally be compelled to add that other monster game next to GZ. Plus, you'd think the license would be easy to get.

I bet Keith knew his next theme well before Godzilla was even on the line. I would doubt they do a "sequel" or sister theme in consecutive titles just based on their development cadence.

#14766 1 year ago
Quoted from greeneye:

Thinking about joining the club…
I’m seeing some good deals on Pro’s. Premiums are going for a hefty price. Are you Pro owners (Prowners?) happy with your purchase? I know the differences but wanted to hear from the horses mouth if they regret it and wish they had bought a Premium or if they feel it’s an all time great even at the Pro level. Thanks

They are both tons of fun. Rules are mostly the same with a few tweaks on the premium (train loops, mecha-godzilla being a couple). Pro I would say plays a bit faster since it doesn't have as many pauses from the building mech or the mecha turning ramp.

3 weeks later
#15436 1 year ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

who cares about Keith's tied for worst game dudes? Really! JP is Elwin's HURRY UP release, just like Jack Danger's weak, rushed, and unrefined first effort. It's almost as if these designs were paid by the hour, and the designer wasn't on salary for his effort.
anyways, Godzilla is something else. What a Gem of a game. Elwin's best by a long shot

Right

backing-away-slowly-sienfeld.gifbacking-away-slowly-sienfeld.gif
3 weeks later
#16253 1 year ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

So I checked the light matrix on Page 18 of the manual and it appears all the LEDs that are out are driven by the Node 8c Extension Board (primarily driven from Node 8). I re-checked all the connectors on both the Node 8 board as well as the 8c Node Extension Board to ensure they were seated properly and nothing appears out of place but LEDs still don't function. Could I have potentially shorted something out inadvertently? I was hoping this was simply a connector issue...

Did you adjust it with the power on? Unlikely if power was off unless something remained in contact when you powered on.

#16358 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Finally been able to enjoy my premium a bit but I'm finding when I rip a fast shot through the upper spinner the ball flys straight down the middle and drains - I am level so asking if anyone else has had this? Adjusted one of the ball guides maybe?

I had this issue. I ended up dropping flipper power down a bit on both left flippers and raised the back legs a bit. That helped quite a bit along with putting more plays on it. That info came straight from Keith.

#16522 1 year ago
Quoted from Desmodromic:

Is this the PBL coil stop that folks are switching to as the factory Stern coil stops start to wear out?
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Almost looks like this is an OEM replacement piece, but I see mention of a coil stop of better quality?

Yep

#16523 1 year ago
Quoted from Av8:

Think there will be a price increase on GZ in Jan.?

All games are going up in January is the story.

#16681 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

My center spinner fell out while playing today. No idea how... I'm trying to get it back in, but I must be doing something wrong because when I squeezed it into the bracket, it won't actually spin anymore. Can someone share a picture of what the spinner looks like (or a thread/post that explains how to fix it)? I'm thinking I might need to get more than the top metal bar over the switch because when I put it in, there was no side-to-side play like there is on the other two spinners.
[quoted image][quoted image]

In your pic: on the left, that side isn't in all the way, you need to go past the bend you are resting on right now.

1 week later
#16797 1 year ago
Quoted from pch3727:

I've just heard so many people recommend to replace the the stock coils. Or is it just the stops that need replacing?

Just the stops. Coils are much less likely to fail.

#16803 1 year ago
Quoted from ticktockman:

My GZ came with a bent backbox hinge. Stern sent a replacement but I’m having trouble accessing the back bolt because it looks like the power supply box is in the way. Is there an easy way to remove the cover to reach the bolt?

Yep, take the nut off that attaches at the circuit board and the nut on the cover itself. It will pop right off.

#16806 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

2, one to the left as well

I think we are talking about the same thing. The left and the right. Two total should be all you need to do.

PXL_20220909_222331648 (resized).jpgPXL_20220909_222331648 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#17253 1 year ago

Got my parts back from powdercoat this week. This is Prismatic Alien Silver.

PXL_20221205_0248593342 (resized).jpgPXL_20221205_0248593342 (resized).jpg
#17258 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

That looks killer. I’m planning to order those custom Stern rails for my GZ LE. Do they only come shipped in black? I assume I’ll need to get them powder coated silver to match the factory lockdown bar and legs?

Ya they come in the same black that is used on the pro and premium machines. The gold is just shiny thick paper stock type stuff that is stuck to the back side. I removed those and sent the rails off for powder. Then reattached with double sided tape.

#17265 1 year ago
Quoted from arrbee:

I wonder is there variation between machines wrt how the ball exits the loop, and therefore something adjustable. Other than leg level of course!
Mine veers away from the flipper after the 2nd loop.
Makes it hard to get more than 4 in a row....

Keith advised me to drop down the power on the upper flipper a bit. I went in small increments and tested until it felt a bit better. My look or center spinner shot would go down the middle quite a bit at stock flipper power settings.

#17342 1 year ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Any tips on installing these? I just got mine yesterday from PBL and have never installed blades at all. These ones stick on they aren't the screw on ones like the ones from CT.

I lifted the playfield all the way vertical. Placed the blades using some spring clamps and microfiber cloths and got them located properly. Then moved the the front clamp, gently bend the blade way and start peeling the backing. Went about halfway back and ripped it off then stuck down the front. Repeat the process for the back half.

1 week later
#17544 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Ok. So you can’t do a tier 2 battle in Tokyo. Gotta play a tier 1 first then change cities. Then play tier 1 and then you can play a tier 2 in that second city?

Yes

#17665 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

Thanks appreciate it
that’s weird my light turns freely from left to right and tightening screw doesn’t seem to tighten light at all??
Any thoughts ?

Tighten the post

#17882 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

Thanks and that’s what I was thinking in terms of having a variety and while I know DP is not the same as GZ, TNA is a lot different. One day I feel I’ll keep this one, then the next day I flip flop LOL.
The other thing is there is a DP Pro not far from me that I used to play before I owned one so could always go and play if I have the urge. I haven’t had the DP long at home but have already made it half way and almost hit a billion and I don’t play everyday and not long sessions at a time due to work, children, etc.

Just the wifey and an almost 3 year old so I’m sure as the little one gets older, all of the pins will get more play. Wifey said she likes both, but her favorite of all time, for now, is Taxi.
Thanks everyone for the help and input, it really helps and I know in the end it’s my decision, but do like to hear other’s thoughts based on longer ownership.
Forgot to mention, I did own a Wonka LE previously and that was just a little too much in terms of learning everything, what stacks, where and when to shoot, etc. so would hope Godzilla isn’t too much for me and wouldn’t be more of a chore than fun.

Stacking stuff is one of those things that is not necessary to progress and can come with time and knowledge on the machine. Godzilla has a nice mix of stuff that stacks and really focused non-stacking modes.

#17899 1 year ago
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:

Hey, folks. Can Insider Connect save individual difficulty settings? I just had a 30+ minute game, 2 extra balls, etc. and would like to toughen it up, but my family can still benefit from standard settings. Is there way to have it switch to difficult when I log in and then back to standard when I log out? I'm really trying to resist IC but will cave if this sort of thing is possible.

Not a current feature.

#17916 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

What is the best setting to utilize with a shaker motor?

Max.

#18006 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Reposting since my question since it got stuck at the bottom of the last page. Is this normal behavior, a software bug, or something wrong with my specific game?

I would say check your switch and maybe tweak it just a bit.

#18010 1 year ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

But why would it react by kicking the ball out if the switch wasn’t registered? Just to clarify, it’s not waiting for a ball search. No one else has this happen?

Its possible that it may think the ball is partially in the scoop or two are in there throwing things off and it fires the coil to clear things. Anyways, just a theory, try it or don't. I know I would try adjusting a switch vs going down some rabbit hole elsewhere. Put the game in switch test and put a ball in there. Does the switch stay closed?

#18129 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

Ok thanks that helps me a lot !! I almost just beat titanosaurus but couldn’t figure out what to hit for captive ball I thought it was magnet sigh

The magnagrab has the captive ball behind it. You were right.

1 month later
#18851 1 year ago

Keith said on the Loserkid podcast that this first update was really to support the upcoming PinClash event. There were a couple bugs and then some video double flip blowoff options they put in specifically for that tournament.

3 weeks later
#19461 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Anybody have issues with the ball rolling down the habitrail and hitting the top of the other habitrail above it? If the ball decides to roll slowly it tends to get hung up. Obviously, I can try and adjust both habitrails, but curious if others have encountered this issue.

Just give it a nice easy, slight bend until you have smooth travel. It should not take much.

2 weeks later
#19920 1 year ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Hi guys, im still not able to remove the action button from lockbar.
I hold the button with my hand and turn the metal nut with a channel lock and i still can’t remove it.
Anyone with pictures or video to show me how to do it. I feel stupid lol
Last part before sending to powdercoat.

Are the threads stripped or something? Post a pic.

#20007 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

All GI or some?
If it is just the one under the slings, they are likely damaged by vibration or the socket is a bit on the loose side.
My iron maiden kills the GI under the slings. Changed them like 3-4 times in 1.5 years.
I suspect it is the vibration but never cared to look very hard into it.
If it is all the GI maybe look in the manual and check what is feeding power to the GI.

Good suggestions here and I will add that if its a whole section, then look to the node board. Could be connectors or something else on there.

3 weeks later
#20645 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinfidel:

That's what's so awesome about modding. Some like tons of mods, some like bare bones stock and others somewhere in between. There's something for everyone out there.
As for your view being blocked... While I'm 6'2", my wife and daughter (5'8" & 5'6") have had no complaints. But not everyone is the same.
As for the upper right "dead" area, Diddys Tesla Towers are the best thing out there. Those things look absolutely killer, and to have them light up with that awesome blue colored light the way they do is the icing on the cake.

Quoted from Pinfidel:

Why the heck would Stern put this guy's (or any person's name for that matter) in any of the call outs? Especially at the end when you want to hear Godzilla's damage, not some guy no one knows. They'd better re-code it and take it completely out. #Dumb

Quoted from Pinfidel:

Thats cause when you weren't looking, your machine downloaded the new code.

Quoted from Pinfidel:

I've changed the T-molding out on several games of mine over the years. The light blue color choice sounds awesome. Please post up a few pics. I'd love to see it.

Quoted from Pinfidel:

Amen brother! Just like a person's choice in their significant other. One may find the person stunning and another find them a hideous beast. The point... Never eorry about what someone else thinks. As long as YOU'RE happy and the person YOU'RE with enhances YOUR life, that's all that matters.

You can quote multiple posts all in one post, just FYI.

2 weeks later
#21032 11 months ago

It will spot shots for you. Pretty valuable in multi-ball in particular when ball save is active. You also get a short ball save when hitting it the first time or two (maybe per ball?).

#21153 11 months ago
Quoted from Willey:

Would be nice to know how many of you have a Godzilla and have not installed playfield protector on it?

I have had somewhere around 50 games and never installed a playfield protector.

#21236 11 months ago
Quoted from math08:

Just did this and it really made a difference. Much more smooth with less rattle which allows the ball to make up the ramp completely.
I have a question on a tweak. My saucer seems slightly out of line. The base looks like its right however, middle skirt seems to stick out towards the middle of the playfield. I can't see how I can realign this. I tried shifting the bracket under the playfield, but this really doesn't move much.
The problem here is the scoop shot. a forehand from the left flipper just hits this skirt and deflects. The margin of making the scoop is just so tight. Maybe that's the way it is supposed to be, but from my pic, you can see that everything does not stack up nicely.[quoted image]

I removed the scoop protector and it made a difference in rejects. I put some mylar around the scoop instead. It is easy enough to reinstall it if necessary.

#21494 10 months ago

Well now we know why Godzilla didn't get a special mode yet like Jurassic, Avengers, Rush, etc got.

1 month later
#23063 9 months ago
Quoted from akerson:

One thing I've noticed that I can't find other discussions on is scoop rejects - it seems if I hit it dead in, it actually bounces off the metal in the back and rejects despite being a clean hit. I'm used to scoop rejects due it being a tough shot on my gotg, but this feels like I'm actually getting punished for being precise. Has anyone had a fix for this?

I simply removed the scoop protector and put down some mylar around the scoop instead. It made the shot reject less for sure.

#23090 9 months ago
Quoted from Thor_Odinson:

Anybody know where I can buy silver T-molding for this pin? I could find grey, but not silver. I'm not sure that there is a big difference, but my plan in the future was to get a silver/metallic paint job for this pin.

https://www.t-molding.com/t-molding-by-color.html

They have chrome or a couple grays here... I briefly looked as my game has a silver powdercoat. Color is prismatic alien silver.

PXL_20221205_0248593342 (resized).jpgPXL_20221205_0248593342 (resized).jpg
#23096 9 months ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Blah Blah Blah.. oh, nice looking copy of Stars

Thanks! I love Stars so much.

#23145 9 months ago
Quoted from akerson:

Hi need some help, brand new machine with ~100 plays and having trouble with left flipper. Only adjustment I've made so far is turning down flipper power.
Today I noticed it feels "soft", it's now flipping with way less power (like I can't make it up right ramp) and ball catching either spring boards the ball or perfectly dapens it. My guess is it's "stuck" in low voltage somehow and my dual switches are jacked up but I don't really know how to fix it. Anyone experience this and can throw me some wise words?

Lift the playfield and take a look at the coil stop. Look for loose parts in the flipper mech and gold dust in the bottom of the cab.

14
#23147 9 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

First thing I'd check is the coil stop. See if the rivet on the stop is loose or missing. If it's not that, then compare the different parts to the right flipper and see if you find anything different about the left.

Quoted from DudeRegular:

Lift the playfield and take a look at the coil stop. Look for loose parts in the flipper mech and gold dust in the bottom of the cab.

Quoted from LTG:

Check if the two allen head screws holding the coil stop on are loose.
LTG : )

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
2 weeks later
#23529 8 months ago
Quoted from hawkfanz:

What the best way to retrieve a stuck ball without having it drain and end that turn? My friend had an unbelievable round going but got a ball stuck in Mechagodzilla's arm. Can I just retrieve the ball and drop it in the shooter lane and have it sit while I put the glass back up will that just auto-plunge?

There is a setting you can turn on to not drain the ball when coin door is open.

#23539 8 months ago
Quoted from Clovenhuf:

Hey guys, It looks like one of my LED's below the middle missile on the right outlane is fading/ burning out. Is this something Stern would cover under warranty? If so, what's the best way to go about getting it fixed? My machine is from the February 23 run.
Thanks,

Check/reseat connectors and make sure wires are inserted fully into the connectors at node boards.

2 weeks later
#23813 8 months ago
Quoted from maroot:

Getting ready to play today, and I pressed the left flipper to log into IC, and it didn’t work. Checked my network which works everywhere else. It ‘sees’ the adapter, but no connection. I went through network setup and it sees my network. I select it and put in my password and it starts to try to connect. I notice it shows signal strength of around 55, then goes to 0, then back up to 53 and back to 0. Then tells me ‘unable to join’.
Tried it numerous times with the same result. Powered down and up, removed adapter and reseated. Tried everything again. Same result.
Is it most likely that my adapter is crapping out and I need to replace it? I’m pissed as my current streak of days played will probably come to an end.
Thanks for any help.

Try the other usb port on your main board.

#23815 8 months ago
Quoted from maroot:

I did. No go.

Well crap....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected/page/93#post-7397839

List of chipsets that should work if you want to replace the wifi dongle. I bought one when I was sharing a IC kit across multiple machines.

Also if your game isn't very old, you can go through your dealer to get the problem addressed. Though 20 bucks and amazon delivery will likely be much quicker turnaround.

#23817 8 months ago

A gentle bend should solve that

#23823 8 months ago

It will only do 2.4GHz as far as I know. Maybe at some point they will update things and go for newer AC or AX type connections. Right now it looks like 2.4 only and N connections speeds.

#23888 7 months ago
Quoted from maroot:

I decided to try a new Wifi adapter. Ordered from Amazon, installed it yesterday and get the exact same issue. I think the only thing left that could be the problem is the CPU board. I have a call into Stern and we will see what happens.

Have you changed anything on your home wifi? Or maybe your ISP changed something if they provide your router.

#23917 7 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

I need some input here regarding upgraded speakers. So I added the Kicker 4" backbox speakers months ago, forget exactly what model # And recently just added the PBL Boom Boom 8" cabinet speaker, both 4 ohm. The kickers definitely helped the backbox, but this new cabinet speaker just doesn't sound any better. How are you guys adjusting your sound? Just curious what settings work best. Is there much more adjust than the EQ? I've also heard mixed reviews of having the settings set to 4 vs 8 ohm. Assume it should be 4. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Set your EQ to 10 band, then on the cabinet speaker you can crank up the left hand low frequency stuff, down the mids and highs.

2 weeks later
#24124 7 months ago
Quoted from PinPaul76:

I have a problem with the ball guides digging into the flipper rubbers (I'm using Titan's). There's a gouge mark where they make contact with the flipper in the up position that seems to cause the ball to "stick" at times. At first I thought it was spin. Anyone else have this issue and might have fixed it. Thanks!

I would first simply loosen the ball guides, move them slightly, tighten back down while holding them in place where you want them. Not moved enough to move the screw and spacer out of the indent, just enough to get some relief.

#24131 7 months ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

Bumping this one last time for any insight. Many thanks.

Quoted from awesome1:

My switch is not flaky... you can adjust the sensitivity of it and confirm the operation in Switch Test.
The skill shot can also be claimed by the spinner in the lane behind the flipper, so it's possible this is awarding the skill shot during game play and the inlane gate switch needs adjustment to work properly.

Good advice here, also test your switch with a ball and not only your finger. Some slight adjustments can go a long way on these.

#24136 7 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

Can somebody tell me if/where there is an adjustment for the shaker motor?

The shaker motor can be adjusted in the menu, that impacts how often the motor shakes. If you want to adjust the strength then you take off the cover, loosen the set screw and move one of the weights.

1 week later
#24309 7 months ago
Quoted from Dalinar:

Any suggestions on best way to handle the scoop eject?
I know its user error, but when I leave it to a dead bounce the result is unpredictable, when I try to flip catch it causes other problems. Both seem to result in it magically going up and over into an outlain. Skill obviously is an issue, but curious to how people handle it as it causes more outlain drains than I care to admit.

Turn down the scoop eject power a bit until you like the way it feeds. I have mine set up to dead bounce to the right moving fast enough that I have to flip usually. Not slow enough to trap.

#24327 7 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

Playing last night and I noticed that the building on the backboard that feeds the moving building had fallen off the backboard. It is secured with three screws and one of them is now missing.
Looking for ideas on where it could possibly be hiding...
...or where I can get another one of these screws in the US (part #237-5500-01)
https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-pinball-flipper-6-32-x-1-4-pph-ms-no-sems-237-5500-01_42400_14168

Just go grab some screws at home depot man. That is a basic #6 screw with 1/4" length.

#24344 6 months ago

Have you noticed lights going out as well? Or is it only flippers/coils?

I would lean towards the node board area. Not saying it is the board, it could simply be a connectivity thing. Check connections on the node board and re-seat as necessary.

1 week later
#24485 6 months ago
Quoted from Nicholastree:

FWIW:
I'm not a great player by any means, but the strategy that has helped me get to tier two, Monster Zero and/or Planet X a few times has been a 1st battle with Gigan (hitting the right ramp after ball lock), locking 1 or 2 balls in the building during Gigan. Play all the other modes that come your way (MechaMB, Tank Attack, etc.). Then move cities. Right after moving cities, hit the ramps again to light Kaiju. Then select Ebirah for 2nd battle. ASAP, get the Godzilla MB during Ebirah. And usually I can finish off Ebirah during the Zilla MB.
Gigan is tougher than Ebirah. But the Gigan battle is easier with one ball because you can always line up the ramps. Don't try to do Gigan with an MB. The balls interfere with each other too much. Ebirah, on the other hand, is pretty easy with an MB. Just prioritize hitting the lighted shots and the building Super Jackpots.
Other approaches have their own virtues. Some good tutorials on YouTube for more tips.

I would put Titanosaurus as even a bit easier than ebirah with the multiball. It also makes that right tesla target shot more likely to get hit by a random chance. That thing is tough for me to hit.

1 week later
#24539 6 months ago
Quoted from math08:

Did you use the Pinball Life balls? I am ordering new stops from them and wanted to bundle to save shipping, but didn't know how there balls were.

I use them in most everything. They are just fine. Contrary to what many believe, you don't need to most expensive super shiny chromed mirrored blessed pinballs ever in your machine.

1 month later
#25054 5 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

An anomaly happened today, but I think it is part of the code. First time I have experienced it. From what I remember, I was in Oxygen Destroyer mode. I had 2 balls going. The PF was dark, devoid of lights. The speakers were telling me about a count down. I drained one of the balls. The count down ended (3, 2, 1). The flippers would not work and ball 2 drained. I stood back speechless. Wondering What The Hell Happened???
Anyone else experience this. It is probably in the complex rule set, that I am too lazy to read and fully comprehend.

So oxygen destroyer can kick the ball out really quickly once the outlane rollover is hit. Any chance you had a Lazarus? That could explain having two calls in play.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 9,499.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
 
$ 45.00
Playfield - Protection
Chrome Candy
 
$ 125.88
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ChainsawMods
 
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Game Room Info Shop
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
From: $ 25.00
$ 185.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Sparky Pinball
 
€ 168.00
Lighting - Backbox
Watssapen shop
 
6,999
Machine - For Sale
Wood Dale, IL
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 135.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Performance Pinball
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 80.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
JuanSolo's modshop
 
$ 80.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Reflex Mods
 
9,499
16,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Alexandria, VA
From: $ 189.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
$ 85.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Performance Pinball
 
$ 19.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider duderegular.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club?tu=duderegular and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.