(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

8 months ago


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“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 147 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 383 votes
    51%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 216 votes
    29%

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1374 Removing the ugly Insider sticker on the backbox. Posted by PinMonk (6 months ago)

Post #1795 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Magnet swing adjustments Posted by PinMonk (6 months ago)

Post #3000 Register Your Game With Insider Connected Posted by TrixTrix (6 months ago)

Post #3546 TECH:LIGHTING. Backbox brightness adjustment PSA Posted by Chisox (5 months ago)

Post #4481 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Building stepper adjustment settings Posted by Palmer (5 months ago)

Post #6364 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Bridge and Building adjustments Posted by koops (4 months ago)

Post #6745 MOD: Flame Speaker light kit Posted by DugFreez (3 months ago)


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36
#408 7 months ago

Got notified today that my pro is currently on a freighter en route from los angeles to hawaii - not just my first NIB, first pin period

#411 7 months ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

I think you picked a good one blueberry

Me too. I reached out months ago to get on the list for Elwin's next game (since I love maiden and jurassic) and went for a pro because have confidence he'd deliver a good experience, still a lot of money for me, and I don't know thing one about mechanical stuff so assumed would have less stuff that would need repairing.

Since relocating, I realized the only way I'd get to play almost any pinball, and especially anything new, would be getting it myself. So here we are.

#414 7 months ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

How much extra was the freight versus just having it go to W coast?

Total was $750. One leg was $400, the other $350. Don't recall which was which. Thankfully, I got what seems like a very good price on the machine itself.

1 week later
#633 7 months ago

Any non-operators / locations here who have already received pros?

#653 7 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

The loop from the flipper felt a bit clunky, a little more clunky and slower than the one in JJP pirates. Was really surprised it didn’t whip around faster.

This was my first reaction watching the reveal. Surprised me and was disappointed because looked much slower than maiden or jp. However, only comments I've seen since are very positive about it, so I figured (and hoped) it actually feels better in person than looks on screen.

1 week later
#1466 6 months ago

Just got my pro and set it up. Everything seems good except tail whips don't register (regular or 2x). Did switch test and both switches for the whip (top and bottom) register, but in gameplay rolling through the shot doesn't score a tail whip or skill shot (have played a half dozen games and bonus always shows 0 tail whips). Updated to version .80 code before playing first game. Anyone else experience this or have ideas of what might be going on?

#1475 6 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I don’t have mine yet so just brainstorming, but is it the 2 rollover switches (one in the lane and one near the pop)? When you say they’re registering in switch test, did you push on them with your hand to test them or did you roll a ball through the lane to test them?
I’d start by going into switch test and using my hand to roll a ball through the lane and see if they both register as the ball goes over them. If one or both don’t register, you might need to slightly bend the switch arm so a ball rolling over it will register. Just a guess though.

Did both in switch test (hand and ball) and always registered. Wild thing is in first game after that, first ball, registered the skill shot and a trail whip. Then never again in subsequent balls.

Going to return to it now. If no change, will see if I can revert code to test if problem existed on factory too. Then try reinstalling

#1492 6 months ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Did both in switch test (hand and ball) and always registered. Wild thing is in first game after that, first ball, registered the skill shot and a trail whip. Then never again in subsequent balls.
Going to return to it now. If no change, will see if I can revert code to test if problem existed on factory too. Then try reinstalling

Had an operator friend over to look it over and he doesn't understand what's going on. Sometimes the short plunge skill shot registers, but more often than not it doesn't. Most games no tail whips will register, but then occasionally a couple will (and then go back to not registering).

I wanted to factory reset the machine, including the code, but I don't see how to do that. There's no option I can see in the insider connected section for reinstalling the factory code or uninstalling the update. Anyone know how to do this? My goal is to test whether the skill shot / tail whip problems are the same on the original code version or only crop up with .80.

#1509 6 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Are the switches intermittent in switch test mode (testing them by rolling a ball, not with your fingers), or only in the game? If they're intermittent both places, you need to adjust the switch arms to get a better press on the switch button.

Pulled the glass off again and it seems like it's the lower switch that is flaky. It activates almost every time I press it, but it doesn't always deactivate when I release it. The upper one behaves consistently. I lifted up the playfield to watch for a difference between the two when pressing, but didn't catch anything. That said, this is my first machine of any kind and I've never so much as changed a bulb. So any specific instructions (even dead simple dumb ones) on what to try to tweak it without damaging it are appreciated.

#1513 6 months ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

The switch blade that pokes up through the playfield might be binding against the side of the slot. You can loosen the two hex screws holding the switch to the bottom of the playfield and try moving the switch so the blade is centered in the slot, then retighten.
If that doesn't work, it might just be a bad switch.

Thanks. I'll give this a shot after work.

#1572 6 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It sounds like the arm is putting too much pressure on the switch button, so there's not much room between pressed and not pressed and when the arm relaxes to the home position it can't always get high enough to release pressure on the button. Definitely think bending the arm a little to release some of the pressure when at rest will help the switch fully release so it registers consistently.
If that doesn't work, the switch itself may be bad inside.

I fiddled around a little more with the switch to see if it would resolve and it did not. Your recommendations and those of others sound reasonable, but I first wrote to the distributor to let them know of this issue (since it was like this upon arrival) saying I'd be glad to try to do these adjustments but wanted to find out first if that's how they'd like to handle it.

If the switch or switch + arm combo needs replacing, is this a simple thing where I can just buy a standard whatever online and remove and replace the current one?

Another thing: I notice when having the playfield up that there is a faint smell of like something electrical burning or having burned. I see nothing visibly wrong and it is not a strong smell, I just assume it isn't supposed to be there. If it's not, any idea for what to check?

In the mean time, I've gone into the switch menu and set that switch to out of service. Wondering if the code does something to compensate for this.

#1660 6 months ago

My post passing doesn't rainbow lob. Instead, it passes over and then accelerates up and over the opposite flipper (if I don't flip it away). Not something I remember seeing on another Stern. Don't think I have the machine particularly steep, and it's definitely the opposite. May play around with the back legs to see how it changes the behavior

#1759 6 months ago

Looking forward to code revision with inevitable changes to pause timers when ball is on magnet or in scoop and to allow blowing off the videos you currently can't.

#1766 6 months ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Looking forward to code revision with inevitable changes to pause timers when ball is on magnet or in scoop and to allow blowing off the videos you currently can't.

Would also be cool to allow more stacking or to skip qualified things that block monster progress. After first one I feel like there's usually something qualified that prevents me from making progress toward next monster or fighting them (change city, tank multiball, rampage, maybe others). Finding it challenging to get much through the monsters because have to do other things in between. But I'm less than 30 games in so may get better or understand a rule I'm not.

#1784 6 months ago

First-time pin owner who is trying to get his game set up securely without going crazy. It was recommended to me to replace the factory stern rubbers. I found my way to https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5761 where there are four user-suggested kits for Godzilla Pro, each of them different (beyond just the colors or number of spares).

Would someone who understands this stuff take a look and suggest which to go with or how to assess that myself? I see each one lists different post sleeves, except one that doesn't list them at all. And I had to google to learn what a post sleeve even is. Thanks.

#1799 6 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

What was the reason someone recommended you swap every rubber out? Just swap out the black flipper and slingshot rubbers to a different color, as the dust from black rubber will make the playfield dirtier than other colors. Rubber might break here and there over the months/years, but you might as well wait in swapping them until you have to. Changing rubber on an entire playfield with modern pins can be a pain in the ass.

Yeah, they did say those are the most important ones. Said that I may want to do the others too. That the first time I do a deep clean and take most things off I could change the rest and be one and done for those. But point taken. Maybe see what it costs to buy the full set and then have them on hand, but only proactively do the ones you mentioned.

#1800 6 months ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Here’s the one I made, it’s taken directly from the pro manual from Stern. I added 1 extra rubber of each size. I’ve triple checked the list so I know it’s accurate per the manual.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1843

Thanks. Since I'm trying to understand this stuff, would you let me know why you have "Post Sleeves - Standard" vs. "
Post Sleeves - Stern Slim Tapered" or "Post Sleeves - 1/2 Inch (Stern / DE)" which are ones in other kits (and have 'Stern' in their names)?

#1802 6 months ago
Quoted from Reality_Studio:

So what are peoples best scores so far?
[quoted image]

Pro

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#1960 6 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Just noticed this plastic by the bridge rests against the inner art blades with the playfield in. Probably a bit of a risk for it to scrape the art blade when lifting the playfield up. I’ll probably look to enlarge the screw hole on the plastic a bit so it can pivot that end away from the art blade.
Edit. Only one screw holding it in so was able to unscrew it and straighten the plastic.
[quoted image]

I noticed plastic #15 is lifted up at the bottom and similarly doesn't have a second screw to keep it flat. Assumed it was slightly warped. Will try unscrewing and adjusting

#1973 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Had my best game so far and got to some mode (Monster Rampage possibly) with an extended ball save and really amazing lighting effects.
Anyone know what mode that is and how I got there? Haha
I had those 4 inserts lit (Bridge, Raid, etc) but have no idea what that means.[quoted image]

Rampage is a mode you spell out progressively. As far as I can tell, lighting all those inserts doesn't currently do anything (at least that's my experience).

#1987 6 months ago

Anyone else find their right ramp shift from a no-brainer, bailout shot to frequently rattling and pretty regularly failing to turn the corner at the top and falling back to the flipper? That's what's happened to me from the first couple day to the last few. On a pro btw.

#2090 6 months ago
Quoted from chromag:

Nobody is asking for a bullet proof box, just some added protection to at least stop some of the contact, and yes, I put the fault on warehouse workers and assume it's not at the Stern facility. The number of damaged boxes is approaching a stupid level.

Good news!

#2154 6 months ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

What’s strange to me is I played the pro and prem at expo. I feel this particular machine here is a lot more difficult to hit the loop than any other game I’ve played. Will spend some more time with tomorrow if I can get someone to help me I’ll take a slow mo video.

Same thing just happened to me with the 5 buildings in a game achievement registering while playing the game but not showing up on insider.

Just topped 1b for first time. Pro and still still not reading rules to find out how to get add-a-balls, extra balls, and such (though I got an EB from jet fighters on this game which is the only one I've found thus far).

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#2202 6 months ago
Quoted from UCFKnight71:

For those who own Godzilla Pro, how do you feel about the overall gameplay experience? I got to play the pro a little bit at Arcade Monsters, but they have already replaced it with an LE. The LE is of course, amazing! The pro left me wondering what the "wow" factor feature was. It definitely flowed, had good shots, and fun theme integration. But, the magnet was just "ok" and the building didn't seem to do anything on the pro. It leaves me wondering if Godzilla Pro could even compete with a machine like Jurassic Park Pro?

I've only played the pro and it is great. I told distributors months before release to put me on the list for Keith's next pro because I knew there was no chance it wouldn't be excellent.

Not saying the premium stuff might not also be great. Just that his track record proves, while different, the pro will never be a dog compared to the premium. The game will be a little different, but not necessarily in a bad way.

Haven't gotten to play avengers, but I split a lot of time between the different maiden and Jurassic models. Never felt like I was missing out whichever version I was playing

#2230 6 months ago

Any suggestions for how to get this plastic to lay flat like the rest?

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#2560 6 months ago

First plays after switching out the stock flipper rubbers (thanks for the earlier advice in this thread) and ball is significantly easier to control and get under control.

First three games was on pace to set new highs (until I started to realized and started to think about that). Fell short on the third.

#2565 6 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

What did you use? I tried super bands and felt they were too bouncy , have perfect play on now and really like them. Did not have any titans on hand to try,,

Titans. I don't know titans from superbands from perfect play or anything else, so can't provide expert insights. Just enjoying these so far better than stock. More tacky than those, so definitely not too bouncy. I got green for the flippers, in case color matters (I've read it can, at least for some brands)

#2625 6 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Godzilla code isn't done yet, but what is there currently has more going on that DP in its finished state. DP isn't a bad game and the pro model is one of Stern's best as far as not feeling like you're missing much from the premium, but Godzilla has a more interesting layout and the code on all of Keith's previous games have been outstanding, far better than DP. Godzilla all the way.

Disagree that there's more currently, though I won't be surprised if there eventually is.

Why do you think Deadpool code is finished?

#2647 6 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

There hasn't been an update for a full year and aside from a small incremental update to add QR functionality, there's nothing to indicate there will be another change to it.
Stern is good about updating their games but its pretty rare for a game thats 3 years old to receive major changes. AC/DC, MET and IMDN are the only ones that I can think of that received major updates this long after their initial release.

As a Stern tea leaves reader, I expect several games that would have at one point been considered code complete no longer should be. Deadpool in particular.

#2651 6 months ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

If you are talking about Stern Insider Connected-enabled DLC, then no thanks. My $9k premium better be fully functional.

I certainly am!

#2750 6 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I've had to file a few metal edges down on the lockdown area on 2 of the last 3 sterns we have bought.

Assuming not doing this is why there the black paint on the wood under my lockdown bar has already been scratched off in several spots

#2861 6 months ago
Quoted from beltking:

Lots of fixes in new code

Hope there are fixes related to pausing timers when the ball is held out of the player's control (magna grabbed or in the scoop when long video clips are playing). Frustrating to watch helplessly as your great megalon combo sequence or final jet fighter hurryup run down and time out.

#2872 6 months ago
Quoted from rai:

How are the cities supposed to function?

Haven't played new code yet, but there are bunch of details in the new readme

#2916 6 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

My machine says version .79 installed and up to date. Anyone else not able to update under software update? My Wi-Fi is all good and connected to machine

Make sure inside connected is connected. Your wifi can be connected but if the machine isn't communicating with Stern it won't work

#2987 6 months ago

Can anyone offer suggestions for a machine that is getting less dialed in over time? This is my first pin so it's probably not Godzilla specific.

Week one, the right ramp is the easiest bail out shot, always hit from trap or coming through left inlane, and often even on a reflex shot instead of a live catch. Now it rattles most of the time and often fails to get up and around.

Week one, I can regularly hit the upper loop six times in a row, sometimes eight, and it travels around pretty smoothly. Now it rattles nearly every shot and I'm fortunate to get three in a row. And often it seems after the third or fourth shot instead of having an upward trajectory the ball weakly heads down to the right

#2993 6 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Might need waxing,

I'll give it a shot

Also do need to check level since I've moved it to another place in the room

#3060 6 months ago
Quoted from gamera9:

I am finding new code to be inconsistent. Got high score on Jet Fighter without launching the mode!

Now that should be an insider connected achievement!

#3362 5 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Is anyone else finding this game to be a bit of a ball buster? I'd expect it will get a little easier as the playfield breaks in a bit, but I am having more <15 second balls on this game than any other game I have ever played. I'm a decent player and I own (and love) other notoriously difficult games like TWD, BSD and FG. Still, I find myself walking away from this game in frustration much more than usual. I've even tried closing down the right outlane and adjusting the pitch a few times. I'm making shots and stringing them together like butter, but it seems like even successful shots drain a lot. Most notably, slower shots around the building or through the right spinner lane (Pro). And god help me if I even touch the right ramp with an upper flipper shot, that sucker is going SDTM. There seems to frequently be an above average amount of english on the ball when it's near the flippers, making control difficult there too. After 100+ plays I have only got to the second tier of monster battles one time, with my best scores being around 500mil. Not looking for a pep talk so much as curious what others are experiencing and if I need to experiment more with the setup of my machine, or just need to break it in more.

Right ramp is not designed as an upper flipper shot. It will randomly happen from time to time with a fluke.

Definitely a good bit of ball spin as well as a strange, very fast ball behavior when post passing I've never seen on a Stern.

I do reset ball one games a lot (hazard of first time owning a pin, I think) when I lose the ball before making it through some desired setup (say 4 or 5 shots of jet fighters) because I feel like I'm not going to be able to put up a contending score with that start. But that's because I find the game overall can be a long player and don't want to invest a full game if locked out of a leaderboard chase. For reference, my top score so far is 1.4b and #4 score is right around 1b. Table is steeper than I want (most of the bubble above the upper line) because I tightened a bolt on back leg too much and need to get a tool to be able to unscrew it to lower it!

#3384 5 months ago
Quoted from fastchef:

Anyone else having issues with a consistent skill shot behind the upper flipper. Seems like most of my plunges get rattled by that small bar on the play field. I tried to adjust the shooter housing and the housing barley moves much.

A made shot can definitely not register because the bar doesn't extend the full width of the lane. Could we physically extend it so that can't happen?

#3410 5 months ago

I think it plays fast if set up pretty steep and people will drain more because it has a lot of shots without safe returns to the flippers.

There are also a lot of time sensitive features (jet fighter hurryups, timed boss fights, 2x playfield duration, gigan and megalon combos, consecutive loops, countdown elements of tank and bridge multiball) which incentivise more on the fly play over always trapping. I think this is great from a challenge standpoint but recognize it also increases the frequency of getting the ball whipping around and losing control of it.

#3411 5 months ago
Quoted from DustinP:

So I splurged and got an LE on the aftermarket. Love the game and super fun to play but the game is almost too deep (for me) I guess is the word. I read the rule sheet and still don’t know how to achieve an extra ball. Nowhere do I see the insert for one on the playfield. Really the only things I have down are the Mecha multi ball and the Godzilla Multiball the rest is just shooting hoping to keep the ball alive. I am seeing where nudging is an obvious great skill to have which I still have not learned.
Beautiful game!!!

On latest code you get an extra ball for destroying ten fighters and another for destroying three saucers. I don't yet understand how saucer destroying works (played a game just focused on hitting the saucer but still didn't destroy five for the new multiball)

#3519 5 months ago

Anyone else get ball traps at the very back of the game when a too slow loop shot goes past the entrance to the heat ray but not far enough to continue rolling out the left ramp entrance?

This is the only one I've experienced and has happened several times at multiple pitches. I have a pretty tight tilt and wasn't able to nudge it out without both warnings and titling.

#3523 5 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Not had that happen here, but it could be like Iron Maiden where when the mylar back there gets chewed up, it stops slow balls. That's why Stern had that stainless steel strip service bulletin. Dunno if there's mylar on that section (there's no ball drop there like on maiden), but you'll probably have to just get pics when it happens again so you can see exactly where it's hanging up.

Will do. Not familiar with the maiden thing

#3552 5 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Yes… the orbit has an inexplicable flat spot and the ball can get stuck there[quoted image]

That's the one. Thoughts on how to address?

#3666 5 months ago

.81 code on pro. Game froze with all city objectives completed and upon shooting scoop with change city lit after plunge and ball save running

#3669 5 months ago

Well I got to saucer attack multiball and scored as close to zero points in it as I imagine is possible

#4090 5 months ago

Looking forward to some more interesting achievements being added.

A couple mid-level ones that come to mind would be full comboing the gigan and megalon modes.

Ideas for others?

#4098 5 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Some combo achievements would be fun. Last night I thought I saw something pop up on my screen that said "City Combo" or something like that. I only got a glance at it though. I think it popped up after I hit the inner loop, outer loop, and tail whip shots in a row but I'm not sure.
I think a fun combo achievement would be right ramp, left ramp, inner loop, outer loop, tail whip.

Each city has a specific city combo. Currently worth five million. I've also seen them pop up, but I don't know which shots I hit to achieve them. I assumed you'd feature will be further fleshed out.

#4267 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

How is everyone going after lighting saucers? As far as I can tell, this switch is the only thing that lights them at the pop bumper. If you hit mecha or tail whip, it doesn’t count it. [quoted image]

Correct. This is the current implementation. My favorite thing is the time pressure of trying to get set up to shatz it for the 2x reward (which is very valuable given the extra ball at 3 saucer hits award)

#4269 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is saucer attack MB worth more if I shatz to start it?

I had the same question but haven't had the chance yet to test it. Wouldn't have the same time sensitivity so expect it wouldn't be double. But would be cool if gave some sort of boost.

#4364 5 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Godzilla right now is Hot, real Hot!! If you happen to find a distro that has any and you get it for msrp then consider yourself lucky as many are selling it above right now with the shortages due to supply and demand of components from overseas.

I was shocked to get a pro as a non-operator in the first run for $6150.

#4405 5 months ago

Holy monkey, if anyone remains stuck in the camp of struggling with ramp shots, give your playfield a light waxing. You may end up with some new challenges, but having the juice to get up ramps won't be ones of them.

#4407 5 months ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Anything new on the overly fast damaged balls and how to prevent it?

What balls are you using?

#4435 5 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Klein Tools 935DAG Digital Electronic Level and Angle Gauge, Measures 0 - 90 and 0 - 180 Degree Ranges, Measures and Sets Angles amazon.com link »

This preferable to the more standard long rectangular ones I see people post? Bought a couple of those and haven't had success anticipated getting them to function as expected (I'm a total newbie). Flat surface doesn't calibrate to 0.0 or when I calibrate it on the floor then move to various other surfaces (table, counter) is no longer 0.0.

Also, the lengths of the ones I've tried don't fit well with Godzilla's criss cross metal ramps

#4611 5 months ago

What has been the typical factory-to-home price paid for pro vs. premium on this title?

#4663 5 months ago

Agree on starting with gigan. In addition to stacking with damaging the building, doing ramps will get you going on fighter jets.
.Because those rounds can be quite valuable (and even moreso the second and third time around) when done quickly and completed fully (just like gigan) I'll sometimes just ramp out until starting jets, then try to finish it as quickly as possible, and then start gigan after and do the same ramping out for him.

Reason for separating is because if you stack them you can't focus on maximizing both at the same time, eventually finishing both but at lower scores. Of course, this strategy adds additional shots so it's riskier than combining. Having 2x playfield going during either setup is pretty great.

#4692 5 months ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

Yeah, this is definitely my go-to strategy - though one note is it's pretty easy to earn an ally from both the 4th Gigan ramp hit, and the 5th Jet at around the same time, which results in you losing the second ally if you didn't collect the first before hand.
So you need to make a point to stop and pivot to shooting the scoop to collect the first ally, then go back and earn the second and collect whenever convenient. That breaks my rhythm of combo-ing ramps and often causes me to drain trying to cash in the first ally at the scoop, lol.
I'm excited to see the code mature - right now switching cities from Tokyo as soon as half way completing the first battle seems to be key to scoring. Apparently there will be reasons to stay and complete all 4 main goals (Tanks MB, Battle, Bridge MB, Tesla Strike) in each city eventually.

I know I regularly get two allies at a time, but didn't realize I won't if I qualify both before cashing in the first. Thanks for the clarification.

I like battling monsters and so have been reticent to moving on from a non-completed one before switching cities. That said, if there is greater incentive to switch than to stay with the current code, I'll try pivoting to this and see how it goes. I do look forward to when there is greater incentive for fully beating kaijus.

#4714 5 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Any updates on the shooter lane protector? My pro will be here in the next week or two.

You can order one from cliffy's wip page.

#4811 5 months ago

The internet says there's .85 Godzilla code but my insider connected internet connected machine thinks it's up to date at .81. Commencing immediate impatient freakout!

#4827 5 months ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

Wow, these are a ton of great additions. Can't wait to try it out! I think I'll really like the incentives to complete battles and score well in the other main side goals (bridge, tanks, tesla) too.
There battle scores balancing will be interesting too. I've felt vs Megalon needed some scoring bumps...

Titanosaurus has sat comfortably at the lowest high score for me since time immemorial. My big bump prediction is there

#4839 5 months ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

Yeah, it probably has been my lowest too -- but it's a fairly simple/easy mode. Honestly I wish there was more to shoot for in Titanosaurus. I'm thinking more of buffing Megalon scoring as more incentive to even play the mode. I bet vs Megalon has to be one of the least played modes in home use, when people know what it entails and the difficulty to at least get halfway through it. Maybe it's just me... I play Megalon mostly only to breakup playing the other 3.

I love the idea of megalon and really want to love the mode. Trying to string together a full combo of 7 random shots is both challenging and valuable (I believe I've achieved it once. Definitely gotten at least 6 of 7 a couple times).

Unfortunately, by far the hardest part about megalon isn't having the skill and good fortune to hit consecutive blinking shots with quick countdowns in succession: it is avoiding the misfortune of your ball hitting the magna grab or scoop and being held while a video cutscene plays and you helplessly watch the current megalon shot time out and the multiplier from your consecutive shot sequence evaporate.

#4877 5 months ago

Found two secret skill shots so far

#4900 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I found one. Having trouble even coming up with ones to try. I thought for sure if you plunged behind the upper flipper and immediately hit the right ramp that was one, but sadly no. Bummer.

They're pretty basic. The one you haven't found is more simple than the one you have.

#4974 5 months ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

By the way, has anyone heard Keith comment on the difficult post-pass situation? I'm assuming he specifically designed it for post-passing to not work and force you to hit shots and use other ball control skills to transition the ball to the needed flipper for a shot?? That's some kind of mad genius move right there...
Don't know about everyone else, but I at least cannot effectively post-pass on this game, you get an odd loopy bounce with crazy spin that just throws the ball off the opposite flipper once it lands, completely throwing you into an uncontrolled reactive shot. Every steam I've seen seems others are the same? Not being able to post-pass at will is a first for me on any modern game that I recall.
I'm wondering if Titan or other rubber for the slings will impact this -- but I'm not sure if I want to change this either...

I'm using titans and have the same experience. I find there is enough wiggle room in the post pass to (sometimes) make things less dangerous (producing more of a high-arcing lob than quick lateral pass that does the backspin/acceleration thing) but I've found nothing safe and consistent like on most sterns. For this reason, I basically always pass by shooting ramps, which has the added benefit of awarding you stuff, though sometimes needs to be avoided to not start something you're trying to save for a particular situation.

#4991 5 months ago

Starting to make progress

Screenshot_20211218-223046 (resized).png
#5279 4 months ago

Help request: Recently, my left slingshot trigger has ended up on the other side of the rubber. After putting it back a few times i looked to see if there was an underlying cause and discovered that the top screw (? Not sure if the correct term) on the slingshot was popped up a good bit out of the playfield when compared to its counterpart on the right side as well as the bottom screw on the left.

I took off the glass to push the screw fully down and discovered i couldn't get it to go all the way through. Comparing the top and bottom holes, I see that the bottom has a recessed ring around the top of the hole while the top does not. I'm assuming both are supposed to.

Any recommendations on what I can do to get the screw to go fully through the playfield? I notice that there is already a little damage around each hole (more on the top) due to the slingshot frame popping out.

CameraZOOM-20211224185421002 (resized).jpgCameraZOOM-20211224185438436 (resized).jpgCameraZOOM-20211224185502591 (resized).jpg
#5297 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Look under the playfield, are there T-Nuts at the end of both of those holes? It sounds like one of the T-nuts is missing which is what grabs into the playfield and secures the screw you turn into it from the top side.
This is the wrong kind of screw on top, but should give you an idea how T-nuts work.
[quoted image]

Thanks - I'll take a look.

#5368 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Look under the playfield, are there T-Nuts at the end of both of those holes? It sounds like one of the T-nuts is missing which is what grabs into the playfield and secures the screw you turn into it from the top side.
This is the wrong kind of screw on top, but should give you an idea how T-nuts work.
[quoted image]

Checked under the playfield. It has a t nut on both holes, however the screw on the top won't go as far through the nut as the one on the bottom. I was able to get it down a little further than previously, so may leave well enough alone even though it isn't flush with the playfield.

#5370 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So, maybe the T-nut is cross-threaded or has a burr in it? Seems solvable if you want to eventually just pop out the T-nut and replace it. Pre-thread the new T-nut before you install it so you know it works if you decide to do that.

All right. Once I google a few of these terms I'll see if I pursue that

#5626 4 months ago

Just played a game and all my high and champ scores are wiped out. Any idea why/how that would happen (without doing it in the menu myself)?

Edit: Just found the htsd reset setting and turned it off. Wish I would have known about that earlier.

#5632 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Wow, you must be playing a LOT of games. Isn't the HSTD reset set for like 1000 plays by default?

I reset probably ten games on ball one for every one I play through. Maybe a bad habit to crack down on

Also doing things I'd never do on location like practicing alley passes

#5635 4 months ago
Quoted from BlakeWI:

It's 2000 plays and it will reset them all accept the GC I think it's something they did for location play so beginner's can get there names in again for a little bit before they all go too high. Maybe never beat the default GC and that's why he lost that one otherwise i can't explain why that one erased.

Should have mentioned it kept the QC - I figured it out about 30 seconds after posting and edited post

#5660 4 months ago

Ball guide on back loop bending in. Is this something someone with limited tools and experience can correct? Assume I'd have to disassemble the whole back and then try to bend the guide back a little (by hand?).

CameraZOOM-20220101121219789 (resized).jpg
#5662 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Wow, that's weird. I have no idea what would cause it to start bending in like that. It wasn't that way when you got it?
But yeah, you'd have to take off the whole metal guide that runs around to the beginning of the loop entrance. Not hard, just time-consuming.

Definitely wasn't noticeable like that. I will say that as I examine the machine when cleaning there are a lot of different plastics and other parts that have wiggle room in them and aren't aligned how you'd expect them to be.

Bummer that this isn't a common thing with an easy fix because I'm pretty much on my own here and this is my first pin.

#5664 4 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Commercial grade double sided tape. 5 min job.

I can give it a shot with my regular double sided tape. But even if I had commercial grade, how do I get the tape into place?

#5719 4 months ago

I posted the original photo with the orbit guide. My machine is a pro with production date October 5. Trying to follow what folks are saying here (first time pin owner): is it that newer models were built differently to correct a possible problem I have?

#5722 4 months ago
Quoted from El_Patron:

I already sent Stern tech an email of the orbit guide so they will have it tomorrow morning.

I can do the same. What email address is best to use?

#5727 4 months ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

These have worked out pretty well:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6308-01
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066-5
They reference the same part number, so it fits. Just overall better construction than the stock ones.

Thanks for the helpful direct links. How often (games played, I suppose) do you anticipate you'll change these for godzilla?

#5748 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Wow, that's crazy. I just checked and for 4 stops at PBL it's $13 shipping all the way to CA, not even 2x Marco's shipping. You're only one state away. What were you seeing?

Added one item to the cart and calculated shipping for Hawaii. Cheapest option is $29.37, so pretty much a nonstarter to shop there unless product not available anywhere else and I absolutely have to have it.

#5878 4 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Godzilla pro enters the chat...
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/71#post-6624483
Both the kind of ball flow things you talk about are not unique to either title.
We had a pro and premium operating right next to each other for almost two months. Trust me.

I've no longer been getting this trap (and was getting it pretty regularly) since going to 7.0+. That said, it's steeper than I'd like for some of the other shots, so I'd love to find a way to address this trap so I can go back to 6.8ish

#5943 4 months ago
Quoted from El_Patron:

Got a response back from Stern today, they claim they have two different distributors for the back orbit and some are flush and some not like the one in my machine.

Did you talk to them or just email? I got a reply saying to give them a call to discuss what they found with the mechanical engineer. I asked what their work hours are so I can find a time since I'm four hours behind Chicago so will have to schedule into my calendar. Will report back if we connect tomorrow

#6020 4 months ago

I spoke with a support person today at Stern regarding the issue at least a couple of us have with the top half of the back wall ball guide not being flush with the bottom piece. He said he brought showed it to the mechanical engineer who said the way we have it is how it is designed.

I asked why it would be the case that on some machines the guide is flush. He said they were probably built at different times and that either is fine as the ball does not actually run along three guide, so it not being flush has no impact on the shot or trajectory.

I wasn't in a place to be able to check this out myself by rolling a ball through the shot and watching that top area with the glass off. Will do later when I'm able and hope to confirm what he communicated is the case.

#6064 4 months ago

The third physical button on my service menu stopped working. How would I fix this and is there a different way to turn up the volume any other way (since it's how at zero)?

#6066 4 months ago

Didn't see any broken or loose wires but pushed on them and now it's working again. Thank you!

#6068 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you have the shaker motor that can often shake things like this loose, so if it's an intermittent connection, it may shake loose again. At least you know what to look at now.

Right. I don't, but I also recently moved the machine so maybe they or just accumulated nudging led to it

#6069 4 months ago

As a follow up, are the physical buttons the only way to adjust the volume? I was flipping through menus thinking there might be another option but didn't find one.

#6131 4 months ago

Recommendations for when made shots through the building that trigger the magna grab rocket by do fast thru miss the magnet?

#6218 4 months ago
Quoted from El_Patron:

Thanks for the report. I plan to do the same to take a close look, maybe take a slow mo video, to see how it rolls back there. Thanks again.

El_Patron what did you find?

#6219 4 months ago
Quoted from sushko:

I'm going to have to check out mine as it's not feeding the flipper as nicely as when I first got my game. If it is not flush I would think you would be more likely to have it not feed flipper properly. You want the ball to hug that back wall.

sushko what did you end up finding?

#6238 4 months ago
Quoted from sushko:

It was flush with the back and I would think that is the proper fit. I would like to say, and someone else posted this to. The game has been getting dirty really fast. I have cleaned it three times already. I think Stern hasn't been cleaning the parts of the oils from manufacturing. My Titan silicone rubber was black. I cleaned it up and it's shooting properly again.

interesting on the cleaning point - this is my first/only machine and I've been surprised how quickly the rubbers get dirty - I assumed it was because I was doing something wrong, even though I've built up my knowledge and supplies from nothing to what seem like some standard best practices - so maybe there isn't that next thing I have yet to figure out for keeping under the playfield properly clean

#6241 4 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

The stock black rubbers contribute greatly to the buildup of black “dirt” in the game. I always replace everything with Titans as soon as I get the pin. Huge difference.

Yup - I got titans early in the process and have had them for a while. And it's the quickness with which the titans get blacker that has surprised me.

#6436 4 months ago

One unrelated thing that I thought would require a physical adjustment which per Keith elsewhere will be addressed through code is having the behind the flipper skill shot consistently trigger when the ball passes through.

#6450 4 months ago
Quoted from WizzardRob:

I read this too but i am wondering how that could be done, because on my game the spinner below this gate does not trigger on a rollback of the ball through this lane and what else is there to detect the skill shot?

No idea - that's why I thought we'd need something physical - looking forward to finding out

#6469 4 months ago

no lube received with my pro!

#6479 4 months ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Yes to this. And I also hope that they ad a super looping Destruction jackpot where you just loop that shot over and over in a timed mode for progressive jackpots a la ‘looping supers’ on GB. Maybe you can complete the super loops by ending with a Tailwhip shot for a super jackpot. That would be fun as hell.

I wouldn't be surprised if they don't allow you to double flip to skip the destruction jackpot, since the tension and build up is part of the choreography and challenge. I do hope they make it so you can double flip to skip every other currently non-skippable video because there are a lot and some of them are seriously long (some of the godzilla getting electrocuted ones, come to mind). And as another comment mentions, it's not uncommon to have five more videos queued to play when you have a lot going on and end up with the ball held on the magnet or in the scoop.

Oh, and while we're on display challenges, I hope future updates will resolve the situations where the screen gets taken over by a video loop (like mechagodzilla multiball being ready) that overrides the city background (with its progress indicators) and/or on-screen timers (like the remaining seconds in your kaiju battle or 2x scoring).

#6482 4 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Lol, Pinside when a game doesn't have much licensed video in it: "They should have licensed a bunch of video and put it in the game. The game needs more video."
Pinside when a game has a bunch of great licensed video in it: "They need to let us skip the video. It's too much."

when your ball save and megalon timers are timing out, yeah you do

#6499 4 months ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

when your ball save and megalon timers are timing out, yeah you do

Quoted from EaglePin:

Keith Elwin has addressed this before going back at least to Jurassic Park. He's said that if you don't want a timer to run out then don't hit it where the ball is going to be held. It's part of the challenge on his games.

I wouldn't be surprised if Keith Elwin can consistently hit a flashing yellow megalon shot at the building without having the ball then being grabbed by the magnet as Keith Elwin designed it to be. But I'm no Keith Elwin.

That said, I'm doubtful even Keith Elwin can prevent the extra ball save time earned by hitting the behind the flipper skill shot from running down while the ball is held in the scoop during at minimum two unskippable videos after completing the ultra secret skill shot.

Anyway, as Mattyk indicates, it's not heresy to write on a forum about tweaks we hope to see in future code revisions. Sometimes, some people aren't even initially aware certain little things are how they are. Like, for example, Keith Elwin and the megalon timer thing (though he did a glass off test of it and is now aware).

#6502 4 months ago
Quoted from troon47:

Sometimes when I have Magnagrab and it's swinging back and forth, it lets go and STDM ...lol

same (or at least doesn't drop it cleanly) - I think it's a bit of fun chaos that adds to the experience (provided it doesn't happen too often)

#6522 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, the gold flakes in the cabinet below a flipper coil assembly is a dead giveaway the coil stop has failed. Stern has been using crappy quality stops for years now. It's not uncommon to have one or more fail pretty quickly. Pinball life has some very reliable replacements:
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Buy some extras, you'll need to replace them all eventually...

when I opened my machine up to change the coil stops I saw gold dust - sounds like the timing was fortuitous

Game is now playing even more ridiculously fast than it was before.

#6650 4 months ago

Solution I've found for folks who have the ball trap problem on the back loop: keep jacking up the pitch and eventually it shouldn't happen anymore. Unfortunately, such an extreme pitch can mess with some of your feeds and make certain shots harder than probably intended to hit.

However, to me it's worth it to never again (I hope) have a game play out like my most recent one: Light rodan from loops midway through the first tier 2 battle which was going great only to have the ball get stuck on a slow return from loop six, followed by a tilt out when trying to nudge it out (in my experience, this ball trap is nigh impossible to safely nudge free).

#6673 4 months ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I made a post out of pull ties and haven't had any more problems. You make an L out of 2 tabs and feed it through the bottom. Then super gel glue to playfield bottom, holding in place with a toothpick until glue dries. Then cut off top leaving an inch or so.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Innovative! Thanks for sharing. Would you link me the glue you mention? I assume it is a kind that can be safely removed without damaging the playfield art or clear. Would want to make sure I'm doing things the right way when attempting this.

#6709 3 months ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I made a post out of pull ties and haven't had any more problems. You make an L out of 2 tabs and feed it through the bottom. Then super gel glue to playfield bottom, holding in place with a toothpick until glue dries. Then cut off top leaving an inch or so.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

wtatumjr just got around to getting ready to try this and in looking at the pics close up realized we're talking about two different areas: mine is the flat metal part on the loop at the very back middle of the machine. Haven't experienced a ball trap at the area you worked on.

#6853 3 months ago

Recommendations on things to check for an upper flipper that seems to "crap out" from time to time (hit button like normal but sometimes, particularly after a few loops, feels like a limp wrist, partial flip)?

I changed the coil stops out from stock a while back which felt like it helped with the flippers overall (and I learned after the fact the gold dust in my cabinet was a sign that at least one had of the originals was failing). When I purchased the stops, I didn't know to also purchase coil sleeves, and so I'm going to order some now

It feels silly to pay to ship just a handful of sleeves, so I figure I can also pick up other items that would be good to have on hand (even if not related to the flipper issue). Any recommendations from this list? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/GX3273?VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=0&view=list&sortOrder=SortProductField:totalTimesViewed

The only changes from stock I've made to the machine thus far are non-magnetic balls, coil stops, titan rubbers, and cliffy shooter/drain/inlane protectors. My cleaning/maintenance is microfibers, novus 1, playfield wax, and sprayway for glass.

Thanks!

#6878 3 months ago
Quoted from MonsieurCS:

Check how the leaf switch at the left flipper button is gapped before you go so far to rebuild because it’s probably just set too wide; mine had a similar thing to what you’re saying out of the factory. The blade for the upper flipper was barely making contact because it was set so far apart and occasionally led to the similar issue (and also made it so there was a huge disparity between when the upper and lower flipper would actuate, I’d never had such an easy time staging on a game!).

Quoted from Lounge:

To add to the good ideas…
Make sure it’s gapped from the playfield correctly and that it’s not dragging or binding mechanically.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll read up on what these things mean (this is my first pin and my pinball knowledge beyond how to play started at zero) and then investigate.

#6909 3 months ago
Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:

Thank you, all. Installed and ready to go!

Would you take a pic and share how it looks in place? I did mine and have an piece that overlaps with a stud and want to see if I did something wrong or my piece isn't sized exactly right.

#6914 3 months ago
Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:

Let me know if you need additional - glad to assist. I was a bit confused on the outside shooter lane piece (the long one), but makes total sense once you look at it for a bit. I had another lane protector from Pinballlife that I put on the day the machine was set up so it's doubly protected.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. The part where I'm having issue is actually one that doesn't show in those two pics. For me, I have an overlap with the corner of the protector the bottom right part of the washer circled here:

overlap (resized).png
#6916 3 months ago
Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:

Right here? [quoted image]

Yup. Thank you. If you could do a zoom out that shows that and as much of what is below as you can fit, that would be great.

1 week later
#7304 3 months ago

First extended / good game for me on new code. Went for doing everything in each city rather than moving on before max carnage bonus. As a result, my game ended shortly after arriving in city #3.

Screenshot_20220202-220535 (resized).png

Wondering how to identify the sweet spot for score between maxing out each city's opportunities and traveling to more cities and fighting more monsters. Thoughts?

#7348 3 months ago

I've yet to find the sweet spot for setup where all the shots and feeds feel like how I imagine they were designed to be. What I mean is that if I adjust the steepness to make the loop more loopable (I believe steeper seems to be better, to a point) I can hit 10+ consecutively, but then some other expected feed or shot seems off in a way that doesn't feel intentional. And then if I adjust the steepness to correct that feed or shot, then I enter the max out at 3-4 loop situation with the ball coming off the rail.

1 week later
#7677 3 months ago

For flippers that tend to crap out and the advised course is to investigate the flipper switches and adjusting the gap, what tool do you do to make the adjustments?

A few weeks back this was recommended for my upper flipper. I lifted the playfield and it did seem like the gap for the upper was slightly different than for the lower, but I just kind of squeezed the (leaf?) switches together a little more, but I don't know if it changed anything and I was cautious because don't want to unintentionally damage something.

#7679 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Pinball switch adjustment tool.

cool thanks

#7680 3 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

I added to add a few (or more, haha) spotlights and have been pleased with the results.
For general pf lighting, I doubled some spotlights at the left sling (hooked to white GI), added an additional spotlight at the post that has the single stock spot (hooked to white GI), and added another spot just to the left of that (hooked to the red-yellow GI, to offer a little bit more light during modes/times when the GI is predominantly red lit.
To accentuate different aspects about the periphery of the playfield (mods and corners and such), I did add some additional spotlights on top of that: a few stacked hidden behind the bridge facing Godzilla (couple of which are Comet fire bulbs), a couple stacked hidden behind the Drake building facing Mothra and the backboard (comet fire bulb to the backboard, white to Mothra), a couple stacked hidden behind the scoop sign (one white facing the playfield and comet fire bulb to Mechagodzilla), one at the right outlane facing some xiliens (white), and one at the left outlane facing a Maser cannon (white).
Sounds excessive, haha, but a fair amount of these lights are hidden from the eye and overall I think looks pretty seamless, and most importantly it offers enough extra light for my aging eyes that I'm happy.
That said, as you mentioned, during aspects of Tesla strike, or after hitting the destruction jackpot when the playfield lights go out (but the ball is still in play), and heaven forbid to add on top of that the end when totaling up a tank multiball, there is some seriously dark dark times in this game that despite the above, is still pitch black (GI out) with only the dance of insert lights and it is very difficult to see the ball during those times. I hear you (and I also play in a fairly dark game room).
Which brings up a question.
Watching a recent stream of a premium/ LE game (I believe a very recent stream when showing off planet X), it seems as though when that upper loop was hit for destruction jackpot some of the playfield GI remained on. It seemed that the white GI at the slings were on (at least, if not more). This is different than the pro, which offers predominantly red GI while waiting for the destruction jackpot countdown... and then once destruction jackpot is hit, the GI goes out and only a dance of some insert lights present for a brief period of time (as mentioned above).
So, does the premium/ LE have some additional GI lighting during these times? If so, that's lucky, cuz it gets dark dark dark during these times on the Pro. That said, these are only brief times and pound for pound, I'm so incredibly stoked with this game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm in the pro situation where the game has times it regularly goes totally dark and makes the game hard in a frustrating, not challenging way. I'd like to add some just to eliminate the not being able to see the ball times. Which additions from your setup would cover that? This will be my first time doing anything with lighting.

#7684 3 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

The comet matrix lighting system is a very nice system to use. Once you do it once (spotlight/star-post/trough strip light, etc hooked to a GI bulb) you'll be able to do it again and again, just about wherever you like.
However, per the frustration you're having at those above mentioned to times...unfortunately, when the GI goes out (and only pf lights are on), at those times so does additional lighting tied in to that GI (unless using particular lighting systems that utilize light sensors, for example like that used on Mezel mods interactive scoop light).
I'll admit, in addition to the added lighting that I mentioned in the above post on my own game, I did use that interactive light sensor at a couple of locations on my own game to highlight certain peripheral additions that I placed about he pf, but I can't say that it offers any helpful amount of light during those very dark times of gameplay (i.e. after hitting destruction jackpot, for example). Fortunately, most of the time those moments of darkness are very short-lived, but there is no denying that those times are very dark, and during those times it can be very difficult to see/follow the ball, no doubt.

Thanks for the details. Would all of the lights you described in your original post fall into this category (turning off when the rest of the lights do) or would some stay on regardless?

My thought is that if, say, the spotlights are always on and I'm able to increase their number and/or brightness, I'd be all for it. When it comes to a trade of lighting effects and being able to see the playfield, I'll always take the latter (I got frustrated with all the blinding on Game of Thrones, for example, even if the choreography may have been cool).

#7709 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

For the more technical gameplay impacts of the Prem/LE features, there is a Super Train mode that isn't in the Pro, plus the Mechagodzilla targets are easier to hit on Prem/LE since they rotate to where more flippers can hit them when they're active. The building's diverter can also make a difference for some modes like Jet Attack and the Gigan Kaiju battle by returning right ramp shots to the left flipper for an easier repeated right ramp shot.

Roughly the same for Mechagodzilla MB's start, although you do get a ball into play a little faster on the Pro since it drops down the lane to the flippers right away instead of sitting on the MG magnet before both launch two more balls into play. In my opinion, the easier to hit targets on the Prem/LE make up for the short wait.

Prem/LE definitely has several things that make for easier scoring. In addition to those listed above, there are 3 available city combos in every city vs two, meaining you can score an extra ball without even collecting two city's worth vs. needing to get to at least the third city.

Are there additional differences in scoring between the models?

2 weeks later
#8208 81 days ago

I've returned to my quest to firm up my flippers. I already changed the coil stops and now have replacement coil sleeves. I also have a tool for bending the flipper leaf switches. However, I am not clear on what I should try to get them to look like through bending (assuming mine don't already look like that).

Can people who love the strength and reliability of their flippers (particularly the upper one, which for me seems to regularly crap out) take and share a picture of what their leafs look like? Thanks!

#8214 81 days ago
Quoted from splickety_lit:

I doubt you'll get much from a picture, the leafs will be bent a little different from machine to machine.
The best thing to do is go into the switch test, and adjust the EOS for each flipper to where it goes off right when the flipper has been pushed all the way up. That will ensure it doesn't crap out early and lose power on the shot.
I did this on mine, and it made a huge difference. There was almost a quarter inch of play left after the EOS went off when I first got it. After that, it was a lot snappier and the ramps were more reliable shots.

Thanks. Will give it a shot and return if it turns out I don't understand what this means.

#8222 81 days ago
Quoted from splickety_lit:

I doubt you'll get much from a picture, the leafs will be bent a little different from machine to machine.
The best thing to do is go into the switch test, and adjust the EOS for each flipper to where it goes off right when the flipper has been pushed all the way up. That will ensure it doesn't crap out early and lose power on the shot.
I did this on mine, and it made a huge difference. There was almost a quarter inch of play left after the EOS went off when I first got it. After that, it was a lot snappier and the ramps were more reliable shots.

OK splickety_lit, I have confirmed I don't understand what this means. I went into the switch test and sit there flipping and stage flipping and see the EOS switch register (as well as the left flipper button switch registering separately when stage flipping) on the screen when I do. However, I'm not clear how to assess for the EOS whether "it goes off right when the flipper has been pushed all the way up" or not.

Also not clear what "a quarter inch of play left after the EOS went off" would look/feel like versus when there isn't any play.

Can you (or anyone) explain in a more detailed for someone who's never owned a machine before to understand it way?

#8231 81 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You have to operate the flipper manually without using the flipper buttons to see when the EOS triggers relative to where the flipper is in the stroke. So go into switch test and manually move the flipper up and note when the EOS goes off and then how much of the stroke is left before it is maxed out. You want the End of Stroke to trigger when the flipper is as close to the actual end of stroke as possible.

Thanks! That makes much more sense than what I was doing

1 week later
#8623 68 days ago

Something with my game I've never mentioned since having it is that when I am using the flippers to navigate through options (for example, picking a kaiju fight, navigating instant info, choosing the currently active ally) very frequently the game advances me more than one step for each individual flip. Does this happen to anyone else? What might be going on and how could I address it?

#8624 68 days ago

Also, as an update on the folks who advised working on the leaf switch to help with flippers lacking punch and to aim to align the trigger with of the EOS switch with the full extension of the flipper: Thank you. My lower flippers had more than a bit to go to reach that alignment and, having aligned them, half ramps on what feel like full strength shots have decreased a bunch (without changing anything else about my setup, including pitch).

The follow-up question: I have not had success doing the same with my upper flipper (which is the one that most needs help). Is there any different approach I should be taking when dealing with a flipper that can be staged? I assume yes.

And as a pay-it-forward thing since I usually seek help here instead of provide it: I've seen on some threads people mention how finicky they often find it to get the qr reader to register their qr code, often requiring various attempts. I had the same situation but noticed it totally went away after I wiped down the glass with ammonia-free cleaner. Now it's one wave of the code, instant login sound. So if you're having this issue, dusty glass may be the issue (and mine wasn't even particularly visibly dusty prior to cleaning it, so some readers may struggle with any suboptimal conditions).

#8629 68 days ago

First time getting to Planet X on a pro. Finally saw destruction jackpots in the realm of Karl's, eventually up to 9 (or maybe 10?) x.

Screen Shot 2022-03-14 at 7.06.51 PM (resized).png

Which naturally means I became unable to hit a single one. Sometimes even with five attempts in the later cities.

#8631 68 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There's still a lot left to add and the game is amazing just as it stands. Don't feel too bad. Karl psyches himself out on the big jackpots sometimes, too.

Oh yeah, I'm OK with it. Goal was to get to Planet X, not maximize destructions and carnage. Next next I'll try to re-find the loop shot when the ball is dropped from the magna (I set a loop champ with 75 on that game, so definitely should be able).

4 weeks later
#9716 38 days ago

Do other people not want to even play their games when there are setup problems that frustrate and cost them balls every time?

My current issues (some that have been around for a while but I haven't kept working to address them because I'm tired of spending as much time trying to tweak a pin as play it):

- frequently hard to to make a right ramp shot: I thought this was supposed to be the bailout shot. From a cradle, ball often fails to make it all the way around even on solid hits. When playing on the fly from the right inline return I have to remind myself: "don't hit the shot where it should be. Hit it a little late like you would with a flipper that can't hit it through clean." And so where I would regularly full or near full combo gigan, I'm lucky when I can finish the mode on the first try.

- upper flipper craps out with a half flip: Doesn't matter whether I've just hit the loop 6-8 times in a row, the next time I hit the button will deliver a limp wrist flip that sends the ball down the right outlane

- busted center flipper: for the longest time I couldn't understand why my spinner wouldn't spin like the ones I see on streams. It didn't matter how often I waxed the playfield or added drops of gun oil, I'd still max out at maybe a dozen spins and not uncommonly register only 3 or 4. On the heat ray spinner which also becomes the super spinner which is also the spinner requiring the most shots for ebirah, this matters. Thankfully, I noticed that the little bar on this spinner is separated by a maybe a quarter of inch from the switch unlike the other spinners whose bars are flush with the switch. So now I need to figure out what part(s) to order.

- I'm increasingly getting rejects from my scoop which wasn't an issue months back. And I don't mean from slightly missing the shot (though I do that a ton). I mean ball goes in the scoop and pops or falls out. One tell tale signal is when there's a big audible chunk/pop sound because the eject has been triggered but there's no ball there to eject.

It's not that I'm unwilling to work on stuff and try to learn: I bought the leaf switch tool to do the manual adjustment on the flippers and had some success with the bottom flippers. But I'm tired of feeling like I have to do that time and again. And though I tried the same thing with the upper flipper, I never had success getting it to improve (I assume because it's a stageable flipper and I didn't any different instructions about how to handle those. So I am probably not doing something that needs to be done differently

I'm sure this sounds like venting, though it isn't just that. As a first-time pin owner, I'm wondering anyone else feels the same way. I've definitely learned. a a bunch of basic things about maintaining and working on in a modern pin in a small amount of time. But I wish I could stop learning and just play it for a while with it working operating like it's intended.

I'm no Karl Deangelo, so me getting a new high score is going to take 40+ minutes and a bunch of extra ball. And I wont achieve that if I'm just throwing away a couple of balls away because of my setup. So when I play a ball one and get fucked by a flipper that craps out or a series of half ramps that really should not be half ramps, I restart because I know the kind of time investment it's going to take to hit 4b and I don't want to spend 30m to get 2b. So I end up restarting a lot and then just turning it off because that's tedious and I'm fed up. I'd rather fail because I miss shots and not because the nth time I hit a shot it behaves completely differently independent of how I hit it.

#9738 38 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I would recommend replacing the flipper coil stops, in my experience they have lasted 200 - 500 games played on my new Sterns. I'm still using originals currently on my GZ at around 100 games played.
weak, inconsistent flips and sometimes the flipper sticking up are common issues related to coil stops.
Otherwise, coil fans can help eliminate weak shots, but that's if the shots get weak as time goes on, but are strong when you first fire up the game.

I replaced the coil stops a while ago, along with the coil sleeves. I'll take and post a photo of the problem with the upper spinner later.

#9747 37 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

OK, Great. Have you verified the EOS gap/setting for the flippers?

Yup. I bought the leaf adjuster tool I got some help here with how to work it. I saw the EOS point was a little off for the lower flippers and made the adjustment. After that, they flipped better for a while. I'll find the time go back and try again to see if the gap size is off again.

However, I could not figure out how to get this correct for the upper flipper. Memory is hazy now as to what physically was the problem (meaning, as I was trying to do it, what I couldn't sort out). But I wondered if my lack of success with the top is because the upper flipped can be two staged, and so does that have an implication for how one needs to approach EOS gap adjustments? I'll also give it another shot when I re-check the bottom ones. If there is any nuance to approach with upper flippers, please let me know.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

First put the spinner in test and spin it. Does it register with every spin? If not, switch needs to be more sensitive.
No idea why your flippers are playing terribly.

A photo will clear up what's going on with this one. Once I noticed the issue it was obvious why it can't spin like the others. I'll just welcome guidance on if I can correct the problem by adjusting what's there or if I need to get another part.

One other item I didn't mention in the earlier post (and I'll add there after mentioning here): I'm increasingly getting rejects from my scoop which wasn't an issue months back. And I don't mean from slightly missing the shot (though I do that a ton). I mean ball goes in the scoop and pops or falls out. One tell tale signal is when there's a big audible chunk/pop sound because the eject has been triggered but there's no ball there to eject. Anyone encounter this or have thoughts on how to address?

#9750 37 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

On the flipper issues - the adjustment for the upper flipper EOS is the same as lower flippers. You want to insure you get full power until right at the End of Stroke.
The two staging is done with the flipper button as it presses on the separate sets of leaf switches - first the lower flipper switch and then the upper flipper switch.
Forgot to mention - have you also tried adjusting the flipper power in the settings menu?

Thanks for the clarification. When I get in there at the upper flipper again I'll see how I can describe why I wasn't having success with it (unless I have success with it this time).

I haven't adjusted the flipper power. Hope/thought was that I can get it playing appropriately with stock settings (since those would be the designer's intent). Worth consideration if I continue to strike out.

#9758 37 days ago
Quoted from troon47:

I have the same issue....replaced coil stops and sleeves, adjusted the EOS switches, flippers set on full power. And it's still almost impossible to make the right ramp except from a cradle and weak noodles during mutli-balls. I'm hoping the JP Premium I have coming (supposedly) doesn't have similar issues with the flippers.

Let me know if you figure anything out. Sounds like we're in the same situation.

#9785 37 days ago

Follow-up on my problematic upper spinner:

It's not easy to get a good shots of the spinner given the position of the ramps, so hopefully this video will show enough of what's going on.

Here's a video of my left spinner which works great. You can see the one metal bar rests on the other, and that the lower one springs strongly right back when pressed and released:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z60MCcRr_QYRGpC5ouy6asK-57Z4sKBf/view?usp=sharing

And here's a video of my upper spinner which does not work great. Though harder to see, hopefully you can make out that there is a sizable gap between the two bars, and the lower one is weak and not springy when pressed down and released (the pressing is a little awkward because of the angle, but trust me it would still respond weakly if flicked just the same as the other).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J1Np3mRbZlpu2zezSm0lHUBfU23feax3/view?usp=sharing

I tried pressing the bar up to try to narrow the gap without success. Perhaps I'd be able to bend it that way if I disassembled the stuff around it. But I still think the comparative lack of tension/springiness in the bar would remain.

Thoughts on what to do? Is this fixable with the existing parts or do I need to replace something?

#9795 37 days ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Get a leaf adjustment tool and bend the switch arm

I've got one (used to bend for the flippers). Can try that there too. Will need to take apart some stuff to properly get to it.

#9796 37 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Yeah, the videos don't help at all unfortunately.
You need to spin the actual spinner... the arm on the spinner will push down on the arm of the switch, which will then activate the switch.
You should be able to push the arm down on the switch itself slowly to feel the actual engagement spot to understand how it works.
As mentioned - you may need to adjust the switch arm so that each rotation of the spinner depresses and releases the switch properly. Also as mentioned - spin the spinner in switch test mode to make sure everything is working properly.

Will do.

#9807 36 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You need to either:
1) Get a leaf switch adjustment tool and bend the metal tab of the microswitch so it contacts the spinner actuator like your working spinners. Bend the blade as close to the pivot point of the switch as possible. This may require some disassembly to get proper access, in which case you may as well go to #2:
2) Disassemble that area so you can get to the two small screws that secure the microswitch to its bracket. Slightly loosen them and rotate the switch to achieve the proper contact with the spinner actuator, they have this adjustment capability. Then snug them back down. This would be my preference as I always want to make position adjustments before bending or modifying something.
Use the switch test and a good flick on the spinner with your finger to get the position and tension right so it spins freely and still registers.
And if you have it, a VERY slight amount of 3-in-1 oil or SuperLube applied to the spinner pivots with a Q-tip (or cotton bud in some parts of the world) will make them really go!

Thanks for the tips (and thanks to others as well). I have gun oil and had used to see if it would help the spinning. That was before I looked and saw the significant gap between the bar and the actuator vs. the other ones that are in light contact at rest.

I have a feeling I'll need to disassemble at least some of the stuff in that area to probably bend (I have the leaf switch tool). Will report back after trying (maybe this weekend).

#9811 36 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

These may help. Video that shows how it should register in test.
Then I show two pics. One with the space between switch arm and spinner arm (mine has a decent gap). Second pic shows at what point the spinner should register the switch. Basically at 180 degrees.
3rd pic shows how easy it is to get to the switch with a tool. Nothing needs to come off.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Awesome. Thanks so much

#9813 36 days ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Awesome. Thanks so much

quick follow-up chuckwurt : can you follow up for a luddite what I'm looking at in pic 2 and what is meant by "Second pic shows at what point the spinner should register the switch. Basically at 180 degrees."?

#9818 36 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You don't need tension in the switch actuator to the spinner - you just need it to cleanly trip and release for each cycle of the spinner. Your engagement point of the switch may simply be too far away due to the position of the switch blade vs the spinner. This can be adjusted sometimes by the switch position itself or by bending the actuator arm.
Just test manualy in switch test, does the switch trigger as you cycle the spinner slowly and consistently? It should cleanly trip and clear. Then try doing it fast and see if you get inregular results or not.
This like every other microswitch in pinball you want to cleanly and consistently have the blade be able to trip the microswitch but not bind.
First step, check that your spinner cleanly rotates when spun by hand.. first check is always 'check for something physical'
Then check the switch is registering accurately in switch test. If not, manually actuate switch and ensure the switch registers and clears consistently. if it does, then work on the switch position or actuator blade to get it to engage the switch consistently.

Thanks. I agree it is something physical. And I can tell it's not spinning like it's supposed to compared to the other two. So I'm glad to have this and various recommendations of how to assess where the problem is.

#9849 35 days ago

My most common magna issue is solid shots through the building when magna is lit blowing right past it (despite the magnet activating to try to grab it)

#9972 30 days ago

My average score and play count stats are meaningless because I go through phases of restarting after ball one at least 5-10x more than playing through a full game. Unless something has changed, Stern counts those one-ball (or sub one-ball games if I don't even wait to drain before resetting) towards the counts and averages.

Beyond that, something else I'd like to see Stern take into account (or provide enduser options to do so) would be segregating stats based on code version. Scoring can change dramatically as a game goes from release code to final (if there is such a thing). It'd be cool to be able to view score and stat analysis specific to a current or historical code revision.

#10043 28 days ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Thanks. I agree it is something physical. And I can tell it's not spinning like it's supposed to compared to the other two. So I'm glad to have this and various recommendations of how to assess where the problem is.

Following up on the issue of my center spinner not registering like the other two: I did the switch test as suggested. When I slowly turn the spinner, it registers fine. When I spin it quickly, it doesn't. Once the spinner gets going pretty fast (I tested using compressed air), it generally stops registering completely. As it slows down some, it starts to register again. I did the compressed air test with the other two spinners and they register just fine.

Is that info enough to suggest what the issue and fix would be?

#10047 28 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Adjust the switch to be more sensitive

How do I do that?

#10050 28 days ago
Quoted from PapaBless:

As it relates to game restarting I have gotten a bad habit of it until today. I took the advice on the thread to move the out lane post closer. Both of mine were in the middle. I ONLY moved the left down to the closest notch and I did not feel the need to restart one time. I know, I know, it makes the game easier but that left out lane is horrific. I could not advance in the game at all because of it.
Nothing says you have to leave it there but I would highly recommend trying it out, after all pinball is supposed to be fun

I haven't adjusted the outlane posts. I feel like both sides are brutal. The left is hopeless from some shots that don't go all the way around the big loop. But to me, the right is far worse. If the ball comes out of that area slowly I know it is almost never going to go into the right inlane and almost always go into the right outlane even when I see it coming and try to intervene.

#10052 28 days ago
Quoted from PapaBless:

Interesting! I have just the opposite interactions. Once I see that ball rolling towards that pop bumper I pucker up and get ready for a dirt nasty fastball to that left out lane. If you have right outlane concerns, just move that post like I did with the left. Having alot more fun playing tonight than I had the last few days of playing.

Nah, I can't touch the posts! Just have to figure out how to adjust or manage better.

#10059 28 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Didn’t we already go through this? Use the switch adjustment tool and bend the switch actuator arm so that the switch registers more easily than it currently does. Put the game in switch test while after you adjust to see how it works.

Yes, went through that. Had not seen it described as make a switch more sensitive. Makes sense that is to what you were making reference.

#10094 27 days ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

I use Titan on all rubbers EXCEPT the flippers. I just find the feel is too different to anything else. Try PerfectPlay.

I heard iepinball say something similar recently (that he swaps out all rubbers except the flippers and keeps the black ones from Stern on for player performance and feel). Being my first pin and reading everyone on this thread (and others) saying the first thing to do is to pull/throw out all factory rubbers and replace them, that's what I did. Now I wish I had held onto the stock flipper rubbers to try.

izzy I also purchased Titan flippers and have been surprised how quickly they get dirty despite doing the same things you mentioned. However, as my first pin, I don't have a basis for comparison. So I assumed that's just how things typically go.

#10188 21 days ago

I've decided to stop futzing with my center spinner and upper flipper and just replace them to see if that takes care of the issue. Trying to determine which parts to order. Starting with the spinner.

Question: The manual has a page of different spinner assemblies, but none of them are for the top spinner (the name used for it elsewhere in the manual). Would the correct parts for the top spinner be the same as any of these?

Screen Shot 2022-04-30 at 2.33.47 PM (resized).png

#10191 21 days ago
Quoted from Returner:

511-5786-00 is the center spinner.

That's what I was thinking. Thanks.

#10322 16 days ago

Set a new PB of 4.9b on my pro tonight. Tilted if not every ball, then