(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 285 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 896 votes
    63%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 243 votes
    17%

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Topic index (key posts)

25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1374 Removing the ugly Insider sticker on the backbox. Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #1795 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Magnet swing adjustments Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #3000 Register Your Game With Insider Connected Posted by TrixTrix (2 years ago)

Post #3546 TECH:LIGHTING. Backbox brightness adjustment PSA Posted by Chisox (2 years ago)

Post #4481 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Building stepper adjustment settings Posted by Palmer (2 years ago)

Post #6364 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Bridge and Building adjustments Posted by koops (2 years ago)

Post #6745 MOD: Flame Speaker light kit Posted by DugFreez (2 years ago)


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#45 2 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I had to pay a premium but I finally got in on an LE today! I wish I knew I could have watched the Stern webpage at launch and bought one for MSRP without being on a distributor's list.

Yeah, learning experience for me today. New to the hobby and dont have any relationships with distributors so attempted the Stern early access approach. Its decently doable, but I should have prepared more and at the very least called my bank(s) to allow the transactions to go through. I had issues finding my wallet at drop, then tried a couple of cards that were all declined due to fraud alerts. For future drops, should be able to hit MSRP if I take the proper procedures to not screw myself over. Did end up landing with a local dealer a bit later at a markup, but since they're new with their partnership with Stern, kinda dont mind paying that much of a hike in price to support a local business.

3 weeks later
#253 2 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

No. In fact, every distro I've ever ordered a NIB Stern with always has free shipping.

Dealer I bought it from also charged shipping, but he said they bought it from another dealer? So guess they're getting it shipped from them... No clue

#323 2 years ago
Quoted from mahony:

Yes, They were on the stern site somewhere stating they were coming soon, now I'm unable to find them.

Is it a dongle or a chip on the board? I would have guessed they'd just update the boards with a chip. Are there any antennas? No rj45 I'm guessing?

I'm glad its a USB dongle for the wifi. It makes it a much easier "fix" replacing it when antennas or the chip goes bad instead of having to get a whole new board. And its easier to upgrade if the technology changes for whatever reason. I've had to add dongles to Pis for that reason. I feel like they're more prone to wear.

#348 2 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Can't wait to join this club. I have an LE ordered but supposed to be early next year when I get it. Will be my first NIB.

Thought all LE's normally get made first before brining premiums on the line, or do they split some production (since they might be running short on parts)?

1 week later
#631 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Who did you order from? West coast games ordered thru local distributors not expected till towards end of month , which is what I was told when I ordered too.

Just got an update from mine here in central Texas to hopefully expect it on Tuesday *crosses fingers

#946 2 years ago

Sigh...expected delivery to the dealer for me to pick up my LE was supposed to be yesterday....still waiting. I did kinda scratch the itch playing their Pro they just set up yesterday for a little bit before being abruptly called to go back to the office because people couldnt figure out their freaking password (grumble). The game was a lot faster than I expected it to be. And so many shots and nuances on getting around the playfield. I did experience that shot to the left of the building looping around into the building and shooting back down straight dead center. A little annoying but tried to avoid it afterwards.

The one shot I wasnt sure of that I did not really enjoy was the Magna Grab into the...what was it called...Tail Whip? Its the shot similar to Hawkeye Challenge in AIQ. Every time it set up that shot for the challenge, it dropped the ball at the top part of the bat and either bounced to the left mini lane/loop or to the right far enough away where I could not even hit it with the upper flipper to get the challenge shot. I wonder if maybe there was left tilt on the pin?

Also the two forum threads need to merge soon or something. I need to free up browser tab space =P

#983 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

What’s your thoughts?
Monster arts
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty sweet looking. And at about half an inch taller than the original one, the sizing seems to look better as well.

#1034 2 years ago

*me by my phone ever since the expected arrival date of 10/26

giphy.gifgiphy.gif
#1295 2 years ago
Quoted from LJH:

Looks like the LE run is finished and Stern has moved on to the Premium Godzilla.
I still have not heard from my Distributer on my LE. Anyone else still waiting on call from their distributor?

Quoted from GroggyFrogFace:

Raises hand.
I was told everything was expected to ship by October 30, so I'm hopeful I'll hear something today.

Mine looks like it took the long way throughout the state for almost 10 days. Finally made it in town today, so hopefully soon.

#1549 2 years ago

Wow this freight company. The pin has been at the warehouse about 3 days so far still waiting on it being dropped off to the dealer. Here's hoping by Friday.

#1629 2 years ago

wooo! #839 nice and safe. No room for a good while during remodeling, so will be sitting at work for a year or so. There was a vinyl figure that I loved how close its design matched the artwork, unfortunately was about an inch too tall. Did get it scanned so I can scale it down to print and seems to be a perfect fit. Just need to get my buddy to paint it (I suck at brush work).

I am working on a Xilien ship mod though, and now that I can mess with lighting size fitting, should have something up in a day or two. ATM, just sucks I have to wait till after hours or weekend to play...people in their offices would not be too happy.

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#1648 2 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Very nice looking…..can I have it?

Heh, thanks. Since its a scan from an official source, I'll make them occasionally for anyone interested and not make them in large qty. Gotta see how well my buddy can paint it. Asked him to have it match the color scheme of ZY godzilla

16
#1710 2 years ago

Buddy gave me his test paint run with the colors he had on hand. We went with a more "natural" skin/scale color (that was also the shade of base color he had available). I might try to get him a brighter color green and see how that turns out. Watcha guys think?

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#1713 2 years ago
Quoted from Bam_Man:

That looks so much better, did you custom print that? How tall is it?

Yeah, I took an existing vinyl figure that's 7.5" tall and had it scanned into a 3d model so I can scale and print. This one's at 160mm / 6.3 inches

#1717 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Yes, he caught the watermelon look of side art. Just wrong era. That style is early 2000s. Not 60s, 70s, 80s, Godzilla.

The original figure this was scanned from was based on and distributed as '84 Godzilla. It just has a slight artist liberty on it I guess. Had looked up "Return of Godzilla" and can see the reference points.

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#1721 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

In the expo seminar, ZY said he based GZ on how he looked in the advertisements and movie posters of the time. Got the ok from TOHO.
Your zilla looks fantastic.

Sorry, meant "original" as far as what this print is scanned from, not the one in the game. Was just pointing out that its not 2000's.

#1726 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Just opinions here. OK it falls later into 2000s. Not 70s, 80s. Its ok, just not for me.

Oh yeah, no worries. I like opinions/criticism/input. I know everyone has their preference. I was just adding context of how this one was distributed as. I have now 3 color variants (the latest one I'm getting hopefully in a couple of weeks and will have all them on top of pin till a topper is released...maybe), and all of them were signed off by Toho as '84 as what its based off of. Finding the right model or toy is tough, since getting a movie poster accurate figure for the 70s godzilla is not really out there, at least not that I've seen.

Theres this one also I tried at first which is more directly 80s, but matches less the "watermelon" texture....meh, I've been having a blast with the printer and by the end of the year I'm going to have my whole work station cluttered with godzilla figures, lol.

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#1732 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballfantexas:

Tried to do that and it wouldn’t let me do that either.
Maybe I am missing a step?

Where did it stop you? After I entered the data on the game menu and it directed me to the website, I navigated there, clicked on my account profile and then machines submenu. After authorizing it took a minute or so for the pin to be fully online.

#1737 2 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

Looks way better than stock, although it seems like it still needs an ink wash to draw out more of the texture and depth and really make it pop.

For sure! Started playing my first few games just now and it was dark enough where it really didn't stand out much at all. Kinda just blended into the shadows

#1746 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Wow, 747 arrived today. Some fed ex shipping damage. Ouch. Does anyone know what the latest code is? I think I have it on my WiFi is says code .80?

Just the box, right? my box was beat up a little but machine unscathed. yeah .80 is current

#1755 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

The head bad gouge, and 2 spots on main cabinet. Box had a few holes in it.[quoted image]

Quoted from Bmanpin:

What we all are paying for these things, I know things happen but all of these dings and bruises and gouges are unacceptable. It's not Stern's fault but maybe the boxes need to be marked better who knows maybe it's just the people doing their job that don't really give a shit with the transportation companies. I've had pretty good luck with FedEx though.

Don't know how many different freight companies are used, but the one mine came in, the box looked like it was starting to wear down at the base starting to sink in... And looking a little grimey. I think one more exchange of "hands" or something and the box might have been pushed passed it's limits.

#1911 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

How is the ball supposed to drop from the magnet? Mine seems to drop several mm away from the flipper at the closest.

Its too far to get a good shot? Since its a "hanging" from magnet, the side-to-side leveling would play a big role. I played the Pro at first a few weeks ago and the ball always dropped on top of the bat. Would either bounce to the left, or too far to the right to even hit. My game that I think I leveled properly a few days ago drops perfectly for a solid shot as long as the ball is not swiveling when the magnet releases.

#1920 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Yes too far, it's like I have to reach for the ball, can make a loop but it's very weak.

Where is it hanging in the magnet when it drops? I forgot to bring my digital level up check mine, but just did a quick game and during the magna grab video as you're waiting for it to drop, it hangs sightly to the left and at release goes straight to flipper. You could maybe try raising the right side sightly.

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#1995 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

My Pinguy app goes to the left as well. I didn't know it until a fellow collector was over playing and pointed it out while playing. I have gone back to using a Craftsmen digital level.

I also tried the app Pinball Leveler and always to the left. Set it at 0 degrees and tried multiple floors, tables, etc, and all the same result. Going to end up sticking with the Klein digital leveler till I find a good 360 degree bubble level that I can print a slanted enclosure for to use on the PF (i'm also paranoid that if the floor is slightly off, the calibration for the klein will be offset as well)

#2002 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Maybe, but its funner to have them scattered. In my opinion anyways. It's frustrating to watch a 3 ball trail right down the middle. Not positive I'll leave on but as of now ,it's much better

I'll get a proper measurement on where mine is set up as, but stock all the MB from the building have been dropping to the left flipper. Downside if it drops down the center is you lose some of that ball save you could be scoring on. The scatterness with that triangle diverter is really cool though.

#2089 2 years ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Looks AWESOME! Pls add me to interested list! It matches Jeremy's drawings perfectly as well yet so many were quick to critique his work!

Thanks! Doing 1-2 more different paint variants to see what works best and I'll follow up with folks that would be interested.

1 week later
#2914 2 years ago
Quoted from MLarkin78:

Yeah, don't like having items pushed back but I had good/bad news. My Deadpool was pushed back from Dec to July, but my Godzilla premium should arrive Monday.

Was it Pro or Prem?

#2939 2 years ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

I have gig internet and the update took something like 3-4 hours to download the 0.81 update. I'm assuming Stern is throttling the downloads.
Have the update installing currently. Looking forward to checking it out!

Maybe traffic picked up later throughout the day and their servers been getting hammered. I turned on the machine at 11, and the update was ready 30-45 minutes later when I came back to the office. I just turned it on and didn't do anything else. left it alone while I did some work elsewhere.

#2946 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Man. I'm not sure what's up with you guys, but when I told it to download the update it took less than a minute. Then the normal apply update process took a while just like it would from a USB stick.

Not sure how long it took, honestly...mostly that I turned it the machine on and it was ready when I actually check shortly after.

I will say this about the update though, not sure if referenced before, but when it reboots for the update and for the final restart, the speakers let out a loud screech type noise. Not sure if thats normal or avoidable.

#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from JSC:

Mine also made a weird screech

Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep, sounded like someone blowing one of those kids party noisemakers.

Alright, "sounds"..."normal" hah

#2976 2 years ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

I got the screech when it reset after the update. Odd.

Yeah it happened in the first update from 79 to 80, and now today. If it's common, guess not enough to be concerned about

#3025 2 years ago
Quoted from mahony:

In the past there was an option to long press left flipper + start and it would restart the game. Is that no longer available?

Not on by default, but it's there. I turned that on with my GZ

#3241 2 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Did you time travel into the future to get that DVD? It's says 50th anniversary on it but Godzilla vs Mechagodzilla came out in 1974 which was 47 years ago?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

Remastered maybe ?

50th general Godzilla anniversary of 1954. Dvd collection came out in 2004 I think, with multiple movies.

#3357 2 years ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Is anyone else finding this game to be a bit of a ball buster? I'd expect it will get a little easier as the playfield breaks in a bit, but I am having more <15 second balls on this game than any other game I have ever played. I'm a decent player and I own (and love) other notoriously difficult games like TWD, BSD and FG. Still, I find myself walking away from this game in frustration much more than usual. I've even tried closing down the right outlane and adjusting the pitch a few times. I'm making shots and stringing them together like butter, but it seems like even successful shots drain a lot. Most notably, slower shots around the building or through the right spinner lane (Pro). And god help me if I even touch the right ramp with an upper flipper shot, that sucker is going SDTM. There seems to frequently be an above average amount of english on the ball when it's near the flippers, making control difficult there too. After 100+ plays I have only got to the second tier of monster battles one time, with my best scores being around 500mil. Not looking for a pep talk so much as curious what others are experiencing and if I need to experiment more with the setup of my machine, or just need to break it in more.

I'm having similar feelings when I play. I'm not a good player, but its having me choose my shots very conservatively...which is fine. I'll take the riskier shots that I've seen drain more easily when I absolutely need it. There's been times though that I've had 2-3 autoplunge balls in a single game immediately drain w/o a chance to try to save them...and its in those games that I've had to walk away from a bit of frustration. I'll probably adjust that power settings and maybe the outposts slightly to help out.

#3498 2 years ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

people have mounted the 8" NECA 1954 poster model there with no issue

Think the 1954 poster is at 6 not 8 inches. The figure I'm using in mine is 6.3 and it's creeping close to the glass (standing on top of the base plastic that's there). I might have half an inch left in clearance.

#3572 2 years ago
Quoted from Gambeno:

Anyone having issues with the magna grab hitting the top of the upper flipper on Destruction Jackpot?

The one experience I had with a dead drop from the magnet to the top part of the bat, the machine was leaning to the left enough. Small adjustment to the right on the legs did it for me.

#3577 2 years ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

had my glass off for a quick clean, and decided to see if my Mondo 8" Soft Vinyl would fit...no go, sadly.
[quoted image]

Yeah, that one at 7.5" its a tad tall. about .75 too much to clear the glass. Which one is that, Imperial variant? I really want the Umi colorway, but it being sold at DCon making it rough to have many pop up on ebay.

#3594 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Has anyone figured out WHAT makes machines do this? There has to be some adjustment.

The game definitely has more “F YOU!” drains than most. Amy accidental shot to the right ramp that doesn’t make it up, you’re F’d. So many missed shots just seem to have an absolute path right to the outlane, nothing but net. Same with a slow ball coming from the Mecha/Tail Whip lane, it’ll bounce clean down the outlane. I have no idea how people are complaining about lack of Wizard Modes. I finally got to my first Tier-2 battle after 200 games.

I cant tell how accurate the calibration with my Klein digital leveler, but I'm at about 0.1 lean to the left and my MB drops from the building along with the magnet drop to the upper flipper right about perfect. So its either that thats helping the drops, or the building itself is better mounted onto the playfield.

#3879 2 years ago

Yeah, as Hoaky mentioned, the extra plastic protector is just going to make it tighter. So It should reduce the drop height and not have as much of an impact, but it might still reverberate and the bridge probably wont open as much. Not sure if losing some of that gap will prevent the ball from dropping off the bridge during those collapse features and end up with a stuck ball.

#4000 2 years ago
Quoted from chromag:

A little shading and it would really pop!

Part of the flatness I think is from the super bright lights those photos are under . The original paint scheme we were working on had a lot more shadows in the scales but my friend whos painting them for me gave it a little broader coat on the somewhat metallic green. I like how it stands out more in the game in that corner, so we've been using that. Just my opinion/preference though.

demo (resized).jpgdemo (resized).jpg
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#4014 2 years ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Are you selling these?
I'm still a couple months away (hopefully only that long!) from getting my Premium, but this Godzilla looks really good!

Yup! a few a week since we get them done on our free time, but can shoot me a DM whenever.

Also...Rev 4 on UFO bumper. I had tried a move replica version at first but the light transition didnt work out so well. Then tried just cutting it straight in half and making it just top half UFO, still looked like it was lacking...along with a couple of other ideas. I did want to make something float more above the bumper, but afraid when air balls are more frequent and hitting the model, so just went with the 99% mounted ufo approach (w/o feet) and exploded some of the proportions to have more light come through. Last fiddling I'll do is with the clear material type for more of the RGB light to shine through and very minor proportion tweaks to give it more depth.

Last part I wasnt sure of is going with the movie/asset clip plastic white approach vs the playfield (or more traditional) silver metal disc look. I'll make a couple more and see what works out. Unfortunately my tank film tore a couple of days ago and waiting on replacement to make a few more test prints.

Excuse the video quality..and game quality...holding the phone to record video while trying to aim for the bumper is hard.

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#4015 2 years ago
Quoted from Hipponotic:

Definitely don't do Godzilla or JP if you hated Avengers...Keith's games are all very similar.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

That's the funny thing. I hated Avengers but had a JP Pro and absolutely loved it. I think it was the code and music on Avengers more than anything else that turned me off.

It does seem to be VERY hit or miss with folks. So my wife and I had only gotten into pinball (in a dedicated fashion) early this year and we played several games from a couple of arcades. My wife LOVES JP as a franchise, but when we played both AIQ and JP back to back at this one place, we both loved AIQ several times more than JP. The approach as newer players seemed more user friendly on objectives...it just made more sense. Sure the assets are...questionable...but we adore AIQ. Gameplay, without assets, we still like AIQ over GZ, and GZ over JP. I do have more immersion as a game with GZ, but still enjoy shooting AIQ more.

#4046 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I hope you didn't have too much of a mess to clean up! Your UFO is looking great and I'm looking forward to your releasing it into the modding world.

Double luck on this...the part that ripped was where the supports were curing, so it self patched it...other part that I got lucky was that the LCD screen had a protective screen so it cured over that. Sure I have to replace that film as well, but at least it as easy to peal and clean up.

#4157 2 years ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Armor idea complete! Found a local guy who blew it out the park in 48hrs walked me through the whole process and is teaching me how to powdercoat! This was my idea of color and side rails works amazing!
[quoted image]

Oooo, is that chameleon type?

#4161 2 years ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Yes sir, changes colors and flips with the light! Matches the color scheme with rhis playfields array of colors PERFECTLY! it's the kinda powdercoat you gotta see in person to appreciate honestly.

Yeah, bet its gonna look pretty sweet. Looking forward to photos once installed!

#4185 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Do you have a link by chance? Thank you!

You message him directly and he'll invoice you.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

#4333 2 years ago
Quoted from Sunsfan23:

Has anyone else have pinwoofers installed and noticed it makes the static on the announcers call outs more noticeable? I believe this was meant to be intentional on the audio sample in the stern code. I just wanted to make sure it’s from the audio sample because everything else sounds fantastic.

Quoted from Drain-O:

Nothing on my end.. but if you have the volume up at all, I would say make sure your speakers are set to 4omz not 8 (default) unless you have LE speakers. I've had a bunch of distortion on Sterns at 8... I don't think the standard speakers can handle it.

So is it static or sounds like a speaker crackle? I've experienced this is other games with adjusted settings and with headphones. People have mentioned it and it seems to be the case that the audio processing on the software is not that great. I added an amp to the direct output of my AIQ and it made the random crackles stand out more. Rest of the audio sounded phenomenally better, but it made those distortions considerably more noticeable. Up until getting GZ, I thought i was jus twith AIQ but from day one on this one I'm having identical experiences.

#4351 2 years ago
Quoted from davegauth:

I kind of noticed my GZ is not dimpling nearly as much as my other stern games, and thought... hmmm..... maybe they stopped putting the clear coat on so thick....
It's been my uneducated thought that it's the thick clear coat that is dimpling and not the actual wood itself. Some games made by other manufacturers(new and old) don't have the same amount of dimpling going on. But the ones where Stern started making their own have a more pronounced problem with it. Maybe stern is figuring out the recipe better.
That was what my tiny little brain was thinking anyway..

I've heard this as well from other posts...that every year the thickness of the coat is changing..like to find that happy balance between wood protection and dimpling reduction. I hope its that and not that the factory making them has random settings and will always be a roll of the dice on what you'll get.

#4377 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I asked the seller about these micro-machines die cast tanks and he said they're about 35mm, which should be a great size. All but one would need a few squirts of army green paint to cover the garish colors, but for about $2 each (if there's not a bidding war), hard to beat.
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image]

These are neat. 35mm wide or length? Was looking for something around the 35-40 wide so might be just what I'm looking for. Got the model for the M24 chaffee but that was going to take a long time to print

#4381 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

At that width (35-40mm) it would put the length just about 3 1/2 - 4", way too big IMHO. If you want something a little bigger although not Japan but a little paint can fix that, look at these.
ebay.com link: itm

Quoted from PinMonk:

The seller said it was 35mm front to back.

Gotcha. Yeah a little small i think. Maybe that 1:87 scale. Theres something I was planning on doing with it at that size on the wireform on top of the area of the tank spinner. I'll just print it and mess with it =)

#4429 2 years ago
Quoted from UnholySpectacle:

I got my premium on Monday but did not really get a chance to set it up till yesterday. Got to play a few games but noticed some issues right away.
1. The ball rattles like crazy on plunge against the side of mechagodzilla. Softer plunges don’t have an issue obviously but if I’m going for the other skill shot it never makes it past that point.
2. The drop from the magnet barely catches the end of the upper flipper which means I can’t hit the loop for destruction jackpots.
3. When I try to hit the loop during regular play the ball hits the loop entryway guide and immediately rattles up and down before dribbling back out. I have made it actually go through the loop once in 10 games and even that one barely made it after rattling.
All of this sounds like a leveling issue but I put my old school manual level straight across on 3 different points on the playfield and the bubble is perfectly in the center.
I played a pro on location and could make the loop consistently. The drop from the magnet in that game was fine as well. Not sure what else to do except maybe order a digital level if my manual one can’t be trusted.
Any recommendations for a good digital level?

Quoted from Drain-O:

I have two digital levels, and both are reading level for me as well, though I have the same issues you do. I can make loops, but I haven't been able to make more than 3 (of course this could be a talent issue, as opposed to a technical issue). I experience a lot of 1 and 2 though. 2 especially is frustrating.

On the drop from the magnet, it seems a .1-ish level to the left made the drop consistent for me. It's so minor that it hasn't affected any other gameplay. I'm using the Klein digital leveler and zero'd it with my floor.... So I'm hoping my floor is level too

#4432 2 years ago
Quoted from Drain-O:

Will give this a shot and report back... May help with the Godzilla Multiball auto-drain issues too

Probably! The two variables that would affect that MB is that and leveling of the building itself. I havent touched the building, but at least on my game all balls feed to the left flipper from that MB . Well, the middle ball usually drains b/c on the way down it'll bump with the first one and drain...no biggie though on that one since 1st and 3rd balls dont.

#4437 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have no issues with mine, been using for it years. I am sure there are better options out there, just have to find what works. I would think the 3D printing Group would have an all in one file ready to go for 6.7 pitch and horizontal level where all you need is to buy small bubble levels.

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

This preferable to the more standard long rectangular ones I see people post? Bought a couple of those and haven't had success anticipated getting them to function as expected (I'm a total newbie). Flat surface doesn't calibrate to 0.0 or when I calibrate it on the floor then move to various other surfaces (table, counter) is no longer 0.0.
Also, the lengths of the ones I've tried don't fit well with Godzilla's criss cross metal ramps

Considering that unless you have an impeccable eye on the bubbles, digital levels will always be better even if you're off .1-.2 degrees. The bubble ones I feel is difficult to get that accurate of a ready by eyeing it. Could just be me. I did print a pinball leveler from thingiverse and I bought the bubble ones to place in there....not a fan...at least on the options for the bubbles. They have padded tape and I could not for the life of me get it perfect flat on the surface. Was a little frustrated trying different bubbles and ended up finding my Klein.

If anyone want a 3d file or even have me print the leveler, let me know. I'm making one that uses the higher calibrated, screw type, 360 bubble levelers as a side project to compare Kleins vs an accurate bubble

#4449 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

How much will you have to cut off on order to get it to fit? Seems like a lot will need to be cut off. And update if you can please on your progress. [quoted image]

Outside of the height...even if you cut off from the bottom to get it to fit under the glass, it looks wide enough where it wont fit between the wireform and the side of the cabinet.

#4454 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Is there 6” of clearance here? Looking into another option. Thanks
[quoted image]

Its about 5 and 3/8ths ". I had made a quick measurement a few days ago and this was to the top of that head. Might squeeze in a bit more but it was already pretty close

#4502 2 years ago
Quoted from navajas:

Hmm. Took a quick couple videos of how my Mom's game sounds. It's worse on 8ohm.
Thoughts?

That first one almost sounds like a washing machine. From the second video, seems like it happens when the bass hits in the audio. Stern warranty is pretty good, at least for me and several others that's reached out to them for issues. Show them those videos and they can provide further input and replacement parts if needed. I know that even on the LE with the upgraded speakers, I get some random crackles and few distortions here and there but probably from the audio processing on their board and not the speakers themselves. Your sounds like more speaker related than processing though.

#4518 2 years ago

I like collecting trinkets like keychains and pins, and got this adorable King Ghidorah keychain....also....when is this thread turning into a club thread? =)

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#4728 2 years ago

GZ license has been on fire the past couple of years across different hobbies. New poster dropping tomorrow

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#4730 2 years ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

where is this dropping? I checked mondo and didn't see it

Newsletter and blog entry:

https://mondoshop.com/blogs/news/godzilla-by-kim-jung-gi-on-sale-info

A little pricier than normal drops for its run size, but guessing artist related

#4895 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright so the difference between pro and premium are the 3d toys and the building moves up and down on the premium?

Guess more detailed description of the changes...the building when its set to lock ball mode changes swaps the return path of the ramps to the flippers, and the mechagodzilla toy is a magnet catch from the ramp, in which also that spinner ramp will rotate into the barrier targets to continue qualifying for the MB

#4899 2 years ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Don't forget the break away bridge.

yes! felt i was forgetting something important, lol. still working on caffeination this mornig

#5131 2 years ago

Most I've played at a time is just shy of an hour (lunch breaks) and havent noticed fade in those few times. What I might do first if I start seeing a lack of power is replace coil stops. Not sure if the ones on this one is any different from the other Stern games. My aiq stops were shot at around 200 games. And think most of those games were short.

#5134 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Godzilla is a slow build for coil temps, more like LZ or Star Wars, so you probably won't notice fade in an hour. But once you get there, fade is easy to tell apart from coil stop issues. Coil stops problems are there from the beginning of play if they're bad. Faded coils were fine when you start, but get bad once they heat up after a longer session. Then when you let them cool off and come back later, they're fine again. Coil stop issues aren't like that.

Yeah, the AIQ when the coil stops were starting to give, shots were still makeable early on in the gameplay, but more noticeable later on with light fade, i guess. I replaced the stops first, and it improved shots at around the timeframe I was starting to see bigger issues, then around at the 1hour mark I noticed the bigger fade issue (usually when the shots were getting a PITA i stopped playing so never really made it critical heat). The fans helped us get to pretty much non-stop playing afterwards.

Later when the pin gets to a nice spot at home, we'll be getting more gametime, so we'll see how it does 1-2 hours of gametime.

1 week later
#5667 2 years ago
Quoted from beltking:

Anyone know anything on Godzilla topper? Hopefully it’s great and not plastic like stranger things. They still haven’t released mando so maybe a while. Im sure disney approval takes longer.

Yeah, if just approvals are needed, Toho shouldnt take long. Maybe extra time in designing something dynamic (heres hoping thats the case if they take long).

#5674 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Referring to AIQ in my comment, not Godzilla. Just the lower flippers are weaker in long sessions even with the fans, the upper flipper isn’t a big factor for me and I don’t have a fan in that one. I don’t watch the clock, I just change games or take a break when it’s noticeable.........sorry I don’t have better data for you!

With the fans in AIQ, played up to two hours and things still felt pretty solid. Though right now my left flipper is randomly getting stuck and some power loss in shots.... Need to investigate. Either way, the fans have greatly helped with avengers for long play

#5677 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Flipper sticking sounds like the coil stop is broken/loose. That or the EOS switch blade is catching.

Cool stops or tightening that part... Forgot the name, that holds the flipper bat in place. I can hear the coil disengage and re engage while it's stuck. Been so busy that the 5% of the shots where it's noticable I just let it slide...I should though fix it. Tomorrow.... Tomorrow...

#5721 2 years ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Hope everyone is well. Happy New Year. I have two questions about flippers. Would it be prudent to buy replacement flipper assemblies or is that something you would wait for when you need it. I like to be prepared for anything but I want to avoid overkill.
Second, in the Godzilla manual under parts reference it has the following part numbers for coils: 090-5030-ND (Upper Left), 090-5032-ND (Lower Left), and 090-5020-20 ND (Right).
Why would the lower coils be different? I'm not suggesting they are wrong. Just wondering why the coils would be different, specifically for the lower ones.
Thanks.

As far as assemblies, you shouldnt need them for a good extra long while. I think the best things to replace early on with Stern machines and to have on hand are the coil stops and sleeves. They're the first to go, and the parts Stern use for those tend to wear out much faster than the ones you'd get from pinballlife/marco/etc. They're cheap also. I have a bundle of 10 for both my games in case I start noticing issues.

#5725 2 years ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Thanks. Do you buy the same coil stops or better ones? If better, which?

These have worked out pretty well:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6308-01
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066-5

They reference the same part number, so it fits. Just overall better construction than the stock ones.

#5730 2 years ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Thanks for the helpful direct links. How often (games played, I suppose) do you anticipate you'll change these for godzilla?

Stock ones are recommended to replace early on, at least from my experience and from what multiple people have noticed issues with the coil stop flaking quickly and losing strength. My AIQ needed replacing when I bought it and it only had 200 games at most. One of the stops had even broken off the bracket. I just jumped the gun with GZ and swapped them first chance I got.

After that guess it varies. 1k games? Might be more. I'm so new at home owning a game so haven't reached that point yet.

#5823 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I've never had a sdtm drain on my Pro in 175+ games from the Wallup shot. It's always a clean exit to my right flipper. The LE i play on route has sdtm drains often from this shot, so much that you have to try and avoid shooting it. I'm not sure if adjusting the pitch and level of the game would improve the exit on the LE, but it is something that I've noticed as a difference in playing the 2 models.

At least with .85 atm, that side of the building entry to the building exit drain is "safe" with the momentary ball save it triggers now. For my shots it varies on the speed that I get that exit. Seems about 40% it drains, rest it barely gets the edge of the flipper to bounce out of.

#5840 2 years ago
Quoted from xyntec:

same with the hulk shot on the AIQ, if you make a clean shot, it comes back STDM also (through Captain America), almost no way of saving it...

This is has been very rare for me. The shot has to be very exact in trajectory and speed to skip the bumpers and posts to go sdtm out of Capt America. I see it maybe one in 30+ hulk shots? Annoying when it happens though

#6158 2 years ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

I'm getting my machine (Premium) in March. Do I need to pick up a memory card of any kind? If yes, what do you suggest? TiA

The microsd card is already pre installed. If you plan on sing the IC and running the updates through that, you dont need anything extra to run updates.

#6192 2 years ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

It is lalmost like the targets are spring loaded.. I think the pitch is about 6.5 and flipper strength is at factory setting. What do you have your flippers set at?

Quoted from mbrave77:

Yea Im getting some airballs too when hitting some targets. Once in a while itll end up into a wireform or hitting the wireform.

Make sure theres no debris from posts or the blue rubbers in the area. Little bit of flakes can give it enough momentum to come off the playfield. also see if the targets are perpendicular to the field. If they're slightly bent at an angle either factory or from repetive hits, it can give it an upward trajectory on the return from the bounce

#6194 2 years ago
Quoted from WizzardRob:

How is changing coil stops making the flippers stronger? I am getting to 400 games, did not notice weak flippers yet

Maybe not stronger by default standards, but its been fairly common that Stern coil stops can degrade quicker for some people. Much sooner than your 400 games where you're at...even as soon as sub 100 games. Using some better quality ones stops and sleeves (as needed if the stock ones dirtied them up) can get the flipper strength up to par to where they're supposed to be. I replaced mine early just to be safe since they're fairly cheap and had spares lying around. My other game needed them very early in its life and was having issues at sub 200 games to hit several ramps and shots.

#6283 2 years ago
Quoted from NovaCade:

Anyone else’s glass ridiculously tight? Tightest of all my tables by far. Makes me a little nervous every time I have to take it off.

Quoted from jaycbarnett:

YES! More worrisome is that there doesn't seem to be any clearance between the outside edge of the cab and the glass. I've got Invisiglass on my Pro and I'm petrified that I'm going to see a long scratch down the middle of it.

Mine was pretty tight as well. After about 10-ish removals and putting the glass back in as I was working on things on the playfield, it seemed to have softened up a bit and feels as I think it should.

#6330 2 years ago
Quoted from thebosson:

Hearing from my distributor that it will be late this year or early next for my premium to be built/delivered. Others hearing the same?

If you just got on the list possibly. There's a few runs being made this year but lots of requests from first few months of release probably took all those spots

#6351 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Didn’t stern cancel Dead Pool for 2022 release?

Not at this point. There was a couple of misunderstandings from a post that was worded weird, but there has been no official mention from any distributor of it being cancelled.

1 week later
#6589 2 years ago
Quoted from dino69:

Could you upload a photo of how it is inside and how the two parts are anchored? thanks

The material color makes it hard to take a photo of, but this is the mounting piece thats screwed onto the pop bumper. Underside of the UFO has a hole with corresponding lips that falls into those openings and twists in to place.

Other options were 3M tape or magnets to make the design screw-less from above, but felt this would be more secure in the small chances of airballs hitting it.

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1 week later
#6918 2 years ago

This one was fun. Wanted to show his chest exposed when taking down his barrier, like the sticker on the other side of the spinner. Debating on changing a few more things. Also the paint is extremely picky on the coats and consistency. Need a little more practice to get it just right.

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#7020 2 years ago
Quoted from OilGuy:

Can someone remind me how to pull in new code. I am running version 0.80 and just connected to the internet today. The Wi-Fi test works fine, but when I go to find new code, it says I am up to date with 0.80.

Have you completed full game registration with your Insider account? Its the only way to get the wifi downloads. The registration takes several steps and need to make sure you complete it all the way through for it to work.

#7261 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

For whatever reason, at least on my game, the wifi update doesn't work great. I have good internet and can download the code on the PC in 10 min or less then put it on USB and update the game quickly. Trying the wifi method took hours after which the game froze and I needed to restart and try again. Tried it a second time and it froze again after more than an hour. The 3rd time it actually worked.

Wonder if it's less the wifi and more the card having issues writing and reading. It could be either, just adding other possibilities. I had a USB drive have issues installing an update and it ended up swapping to another USB and worked great.

#7278 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I have thought maybe it is a combination off issues:
1) the wifi signal strength at the game may not be the strongest although other devices in the room including the BBH HD next to and my streaming rig have no issues.
2) the USB wifi unit they include really doesn't have much of an antenna at it is partially enclosed in the metal box box. I noticed on export games they include a bigger wifi antenna that is attached to the side of the back box. I wonder if anyone has tried installing something like this in a US game?
I could try replacing the SD card, I just find it hard to believe I could have a bad SD card and the only issue is installing code updates over wifi.
I have no interest in bringing a CAT 5 cable to this game. It would be a mess unless I want to start tunneling these through walls. Stern doesn't even seem to make that easy since there isn't a connector on the outside. There is no way this should require that kind of band width and it is an antiquated solution in the modern era.

Its rare, but bad I/O on a mounted partition can cause more freezes compared to just having sluggish internet. Unless the OS doesnt know how to handle wifi connection drops and causes the freeze there. I have a printer that froze halfway through multiple times b/c of a bad brand new USB drive as well...wasnt the file as i moved it over to a new one and worked just fine. Its just one of those things I always have on the list to troubleshoot. Some are rare occurrences but if I have spare parts laying around, it doesnt hurt to spend a couple of minutes to mark them off the list of possibilities if its a quick thing to test...compared to getting an antenna, moving a router, or running a cable. Could also be the wifi unit as well. Corrupt hardware could glitch out the OS.

And yeah, bandwidth should just be a luxury for the updates. I have GZ at work attached to a guest network thats super limited in ports and bandwidth. Downloads take maybe 45-60 minutes, but doesnt freeze.

#7414 2 years ago

Different color sky/background

#7516 2 years ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

Godzilla is here! Unboxed over the weekend and now just starting to set it up.
For Stern connected I have it connected to WiFi and the connection tests work. When I go to check for updates it is telling me .80 firmware is current. Do I need to update the firmware manually the first time or am I missing something here?
When going into Stern connected menu in settings It kept saying close coin door interlock which interferes with selecting options on that screen. Manually pressing the white button on the inside cleared that message so I could select them. This wasn’t a problem selecting options in other settings sub menus just the connected menu.
[quoted image]

Normally pulling that interlock will bypass and get full power into the machine. As far as the IC, you need to register the game to your account to fully vet it into Sterns systems. Start the prompts to register the game, and complete registration on the web browser by accepting to the machine into your account. Aftewards the updates can be set up for manual install, automatic installs, etc.

#7524 2 years ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

Thanks for the input, instructions were not clear but once I registered the pin in a few moments the firmware showed an updated and it started downloading!
Stupid question - how do I pull the interlock?

That white switch that the coin door presses in to let the game know its closed, you can grab it and pull out. It'll lock in that position till you close the door again.

1 week later
#7920 2 years ago

Hey guys...so two things.

1. Taking care of our dog post surgery past month has prevented me from playing GZ while its sitting at work in my office. I let my coworkers play and they enjoy it. I do quick trips for fit tests of some mods and such so its a quick in and out. That being said I finally got a chance to stay there for a little over half an hour and holy crap! The past couple of updates were phenomenal. The extra audio bits, video, and more importantly the new light shows really got me immersed and hyped. cant wait to actually spend more time in the office next month.

Which follows up into 2:

Added my mecha shield spinner top mod to the shop for anyone interested. Expected shipping is early to mid March for that batch and I'll contact those that had messaged me last month to follow up on those requests first.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1363-cheko-s-shop/05858-mechagodzilla-shield-spinner-mod-for-prem-le

Pro version coming in the coming weeks as well.

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#7960 2 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Thanks. Like to see some pics from people that added a figure back there. I know there some on here but....Really trying to get some ideas of MUST add-ons, especially for the Pro

you can go up to 6.3in/160mm comfortably. the figure i printed is at that height and has good clearance. its the same clearance on either game.

1 week later
#8195 2 years ago

Straight shooter vs experience. Can always pimp out a pro to looks super badass and its a slightly faster game with less mech interactions. I cant get over the added touches with the bridge collapse, building rocking up/down, and the shield...so you pay for that experience.

#8221 2 years ago
Quoted from Heavyk:

How do I find Sleal16 I can't seem to find him and his mods?

I'm here! I'm catching up on UFO requests at the moment so updates to the other projects might be sluggish here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-mods

1 week later
#8488 2 years ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

That's good news. Like $700 worth.

Varies by state laws. Some charge to any state they sell from my understanding.

#8533 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

where can i find this Im searching with no luck

Yeah, DM me. I am backed up about a month or so since I'm doing these on my free time and havent added it to the marketplace b/c of playing catchup.

#8571 2 years ago
Quoted from pluto:

I have seriously gone entire games without ever hitting it once. Needless to say progress was limited but my shot was just SO off.

It's the one I have the hardest with as well, but if I just put in a bit of hyper focus I'll make it eventually. Least once I make it one time, for most of the aspects of the game I can ignore it for a while.

It's not like IMDN where both the ramps are a pain to hit (more so than the left GZ), and you constantly have to hit them for the majority of the modes.

1 week later
#8941 2 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Need some help guys.
Got a Premium today, a few issues.
Lots of missing lock nuts on the speaker panel. I found one loose in the head but it does NOT fit on anything that I see that needs a lock nut. Also, the ground wire for the power supply isn't screwed to anything. I ASSUME it's supposed to attach at the right side speaker on one of the bottom nuts that's missing, can someone please verify for me? The gallery on here is too big to just easily browse. The LCD screen is also flapping around at the bottom, and I can't tell from the manual how the hell it's supposed to be secured! Really need help with these ones as I don't want to play the game like that, as it might damage the screen. Pictures would be *awesome*.
I also found a L Shaped bracket, a matching blue bumper, and two tiny screws in the cabinet. The bumper pad and bracket holes match...the tiny screws...do not. Number 1....I don't see anywhere on the playfield that it looks like this bumper would go. There is an identical bracket and pad on the right ramp, but it's attached with the correct screws. Nowhere else *appears* to be missing anything? Looking at the manual, it seems there's bumper pads in the building? Is it possible it fell out of there? =\
*edit* Tiny screws were for the monitor...they'd fallen out of the frame on the right side. Nylock nuts are 6-32 looks like...had 3 of 4 missing. Someone lemme know if the grounding wire is supposed to go somewhere other than that front panel...
*edit 2* The ground wire will not fit as pictured here? There's literally zero space between the metal plate and the monitor? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/170#post-6821168

Wouldn't go between the screen and the monitor. Goes on the other side of the frame between the head of the screw and frame

#8946 2 years ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

yea, was thinking either that or a small piece of piano wire coming down from the screw above

How often does that happen to you? Curious if it's possible to readjust MG placement just a smidge by loosening the screws and wiggling it. My ricochet off that bash has been about 100% jumping straight left. Either over the wire form or landing on it, making it's way back down

#8955 2 years ago
Quoted from mstang01:

I’m pretty new to this (so I may have no idea what I’m talking about) but it seems like even though people post these kinds of questions and answers a lot in this thread they are pretty meaningless because all the dealers have different allocations that are also unknown to us (and stern may not give the dealers their full allocation)… so what number in line you are or when you ordered would all get skewed by the dealer you ordered from and how big their allocations are compared to other dealers. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.

^^^ pretty much all this. Really depends on the distributor and when they place the order. With so many new distributors partnering up with Stern, it seems like the numbers each one will get is getting thinner (doubling the amount of distributors but still having a fixed production line will be confusing on expectations of what each one will get).

Long story short, if the distributor is open about the info they get from Stern to the customer, they are the best source to ask for estimates. Cant go by others' experiences.

#8956 2 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Bumper and bracket are definitely from the 1st floor of the building. No clue how they fell out, and no screws to be seen anywhere.
Guess I get to remove the building on day 1 of ownership. This should be fun.

I just removed the building yesterday for the first time to get measurements, and I overcomplicated at first. But I think the easiest method is to remove the two small wireforms behind the building to create a little bit of clearance, then theres a small bracket on the underside you need to remove to gain clearance to put a socket wrench in the area. 8 nuts (two different sizes) is all you need to remove and the whole things comes off from the top side. just hold the building from the top side as you remove the last nut since you'lle have the playfield upright.

#8961 2 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

It may depend on who is on the line at any given time, but I'm pretty certain the ground strap / wire has always been between the LCD screen and the speaker plate in the many that I have installed.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Yeah, prob right depending on staff. Both that I looked today at were on the speaker side. Mostly I would put it in the other end to avoid applying pressure to the screen frame if it's having issues fitting there. Other than that shouldn't matter

#8968 2 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Just played a pretty long game, first long one since installing pinmonk fans. Still was having issues with flipper fade during multiball(seemed to be only multiball). Anyone else having same issue? Or is it maybe the dreaded coil stop. I dont see too many shavings in the cabinet.

Weird that you see it only MB. So after a multiball finishes it goes back to normal?

#8971 2 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

That was how it felt to me. Maybe just hitting the flippers so much already into a long game heated the coil up too much? Felt like only the right flipper. Maybe ill take the assembly apart and check the stops.

Yeah, even without shavings should be a quick look to see. Such a weird symptom to have it return to normal right away. Now if after the MB might be a few seconds before returning to normal, then prob the fans help it catch up. But still, fans should keep them in working order throughout.

#9033 2 years ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

I am expecting my premium soon. I keep reading about flash drives and SD cards. Do I need both? If so, what for? I thought you could use wifi for the updates?

Nope, neither. Comes fully prepped to get all the updates you need by wifi, as long as everything is working as it should. Some people want speedier, or consistent udates, so will do it the "old fashion" way with a USB flash drive. And as far as SD cards, everything is already in there. Seldomly the SD card can be become faulty, but that failure rate is pretty low. Happens, but rare.

#9053 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Which sleeve size or sizes does Godzilla Premium use? Is it an easy installation? Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/2-316-coil-sleeve.html

Straightforward. slides out of the center of the coil and you just slide new one back in. Since you'd already have the stop removed, its a 2 second extra step to replace it (5 seconds?)

#9071 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Went to update to 0.93 and says mine is up to date and has 0.90. So is this one of those updates you have to download on a pc?

Make sure you register your game to your Insider Connected account. Just getting it on WiFi does not grab those updates. If you have used the wifi/IC before to update your game and its not working right now, then there might be a temporary downtime in service somewhere in the chain of connections.

#9084 2 years ago
Quoted from EvilChicken:

Hi, I am looking for someone who can point me in the right direction with my building problem. Nothing happens when the ball goes through the front of the building or reverse. The damage meter for the building only lights up the first six windows with left and right ramp shots. From then on nothing happens, destruction jackpot can’t be activated. No Godzilla multiball, the building doesn’t move a floor down as the damage meter is not fully lit. It does move though for ball search. I tested the switch for VUK exit, it works according to the switch test. It just doesn’t do anything in game. I’m puzzled and would really appreciate any advice helping me to solve this. [quoted image][quoted image]

You mention VUK exit switch test, but building exit is a different opto (from your screenshot). If you tested # 64 but its coming out as building exit, those plugs underneath might be swapped. Building exit is #53
Screen Shot 2022-03-30 at 6.14.38 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-03-30 at 6.14.38 PM (resized).png

#9088 2 years ago
Quoted from EvilChicken:

Thanks Sleal16 and PinMonk!
53 works, didn’t know that there is an opto, I guess this is 52 and no, nothing happens with the finger test.
PS: got your fans, I’m now an even bigger fan

Is there a red light from the sensor board? forgot on which side it would be. Usually if something is wrong with the sensor, it will be faulty (wont power up) or misaligned.

As far as testing switches, one thing I found out to do because of a different NIB I got, make sure the switch labels in the test menu match the labels in the game manual. My IMDN it kept registering the ramp lane and thought it worked, but after taking further looks I found out the ramp opto was labeled as Orbit opto. The two plugs underneath the playfield were swapped between the two shots

#9092 2 years ago
Quoted from EvilChicken:

Thanks. Not sure what the sensor board is. This is my first pin and my wife is complaining that I’m now running around with screwdrivers after not having helped on a single Ikea shelf for 25 years. I’m an absolute beginner but so far everything worked miraculously. I believe the problem started after I repaired the broken bridge plastic and replaced it with the one from chrome candy. I lost a washer in this process, maybe that’s what’s causing the problem but I can’t find it anywhere. Maybe it’s also something different.

Yeah, my wife says teh same thing when I have all the tools laid out.

As far as the Building Hit Opto, #52, if that ones not registering during switch tests, check the opto transmitter/receiver. Looks like this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-long-range-opto-emitter-assembly.html

I forget which one has a light indicator, think the receiver with the three wires coming out of it, but the red light is always on as long as the connection sensor is not interrupted between the two. When you run your fingers through it and interrupt it, the light will turn off. So first thing to check if the building hit is not registering in the switch test is to make sure theres power running to it.

#9093 2 years ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Yeah, my wife says teh same thing when I have all the tools laid out.
As far as the Building Hit Opto, #52, if that ones not registering during switch tests, check the opto transmitter/receiver. Looks like this:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-long-range-opto-emitter-assembly.html
I forget one has a light indicator, think the receiver with the three wires coming out of it, but the red light is always on as long as the connection sensor is not interrupted between the two. When you run your fingers through it and interrupt it, the light will turn off. So first thing to check if the building hit is not registering in the switch test is to make sure theres power running to it.

#9149 2 years ago

Not necessary... Adds so many extra layers to the experience

1 week later
#9422 2 years ago
Quoted from FNwoz:

Anybody see this new Godzilla option on Pinball Life’s website? I was just there yesterday. My Neca Godzilla just came in as well. Still kind of like the Neca better but this is a easy option.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-godzilla-figure-upgrade-kit-for-godzilla-pro-pinball-machines-aftermarket-version-copy.html

Can't tell, but looks to be this one and they just make a mount for it

TwCare 1954 65th Anniversary vs Heisei Era Godzilla Toy, Movie Series Movable Joints Action Figures Birthday Gift for Boys and Girls, Carry Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09943MSKX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GFQEYFF7W106F1XH2A7E

#9500 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

I have raised front legs. Is the carpet and padding the problem?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Generally, the front should always be at the lowest and then raised rear legs. The bubble shouldn't be fully trusted either. It could be installed incorrectly in the plastic housing. Get a digital level and shoot for 6.5-7 (player preference). The bubble if placed correctly on that rail should be at 6.5 by default

#9504 2 years ago
Quoted from anynamewilldo:

Thanks for the answers. Yup the bubble on the pin is useless and wrong. The angle is a very healthy 11.

Not sure if you mean the 11 as a good thing. Where are you getting that angle? Should be doing it on the playfield, not the cabinet. Think high 7s is max with front at the lowest and rear at the highest. Start at 6.5, and start raising it while you play till you get the desired feel

#9543 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Of anyone is interested in an up close view of the bottom half of the building assembly, here are some photos. The blue foam & metal bracket on the looker’s left of the building entrance broke off so stern sent me a new building. Apparently it’s easier for them to repair the broken building at the factory and reuse it elsewhere. It took about 1 hour to uninstall and reinstall.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Prob easier having whole units than individual parts. I have my building dissasembled and that part with the blue posts +guide is a small piece thats quick to swap out. Well, the part itself is quick to swap...still a pain to remove the building

#9610 2 years ago
Quoted from PapaBless:

Just found this one for $48 free shipping,
ebay.com link: itm
Best price I've seen for it

I'll be having these available in the coming week or two. Will be $65 though (compared to the 40-50 for the 8" figure). Doing final size fittings, but will be about the same size if not bigger than the Prem/LE model. I also placed it next to the 8" figure half for comparison.

2022-04-07 17.10.45 (resized).jpg2022-04-07 17.10.45 (resized).jpg
#9612 2 years ago
Quoted from PapaBless:

Love that, color on the eyes and teeth coming? How can we order?

It was a quick color test for the body, so didnt paint anything else. But ears/eye/tongue missiles will have its normal coloring. The final one will have a darker hue to the aluminum as well. Just got the paint in last night and making my first, hopeful last revision, version at the moment. So will have final looks by Thursday. Shoot me a DM. Wont have these on the store for a while till I finish some other projects.

#9614 2 years ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

So I'm working on a rooftop mod, haven't received my machine yet. If it's not too inconvenient for someone out there, could I get a measurement, the height of the spacers under the top roof plastics. Also curious if there is a washer there. I've downloaded the manual but can't seem to locate these specific parts. Would sure appreciate it.
[quoted image]

Its one of those spacers that goes through the plastic as well. The spacer under the plastic is .502" (guess half an inch but my caliper has that .002), and the plastic is .07"

#9634 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

On the pro there’s not much room available for the 8” one to fit. iOS if you go as big as the LE/Premium it won’t fit.
[quoted image]

yeah, tbd. The measurement I got from someone with a Pro was just over 2.5" from the front edge of the platform to the dome. Currently the diameter of that one in the photo is just 2.5". If that base fits, prob the only adjustment I'll make is removing his mid-low fin. Thats the only part extending past that distance. Its a hidden area, so not a big deal missing that piece behind him.

WORST WORST case scenario I'll scale it down just slightly. So the height will be 4.75" instead of 5", and that would get the diameter at 2.35"

#9828 2 years ago
Quoted from kttully0428:

Hi! Anybody have any tips for reliably hitting the scoop? Any magic shots you've found that get it over there without much chaos? Definitely a toughie, for me anyway, and it's so thrilling when it finally gets in.
Sold all of my collectibles (a lot of old big box PC games, Legos, comic books and art, etc.) to buy my Godzilla Pro NIB a week ago. They were just collecting dust on shelves and I didn't realize I was sitting on a small fortune -- feels great to have them out of the house and replaced with something I actually can use every day! I can't believe how much I love it!

Kinda the same thing I did! Was collecting a bunch of movie posters and such... But 90% just in flat files that never would get framed. Enough there for a couple of games that I'd get a lot more use out of

As far as the scoop, you get used to flipping close to the tip. Was a hard shot for me at first, but got consistent after a few games. That left ramp shot is a pain though

#9889 2 years ago
Quoted from troon47:

I've set my level three different ways and a failed

I've set my level three different ways and anything other than a perfect upper ramp is shot is still about 75% STDM, and the failed shot is because the left flipper is too weak to get it up the ramp. And I've changed coil stops, sleeves, EOS switch timing, max strength etc.....big frustrating flaw in this game, at least on my LE.

I see you mentioned a while back that the alignment was below the holes. Did you end up moving them up? Don't see a comment if you did that or not. Also when you mine the flipper by hand, does it feel smooth?

And yeah, failed shots have been known to go sdtm. Mine is kinda 50/50 on their way back down. Either sdtm, or hits the top of the Mecha a little bit and bumps to the left

#10030 2 years ago
Quoted from Pugster:

Ok a few questions for those who have had their GZs for a bit. Lining all of my stuff up for July and containing excitement as best I can.
1.) Should I get the Pinmonk quiet fan? Is the stock Stern one that loud?
2.) What color plastic protectors or none at all (just the slinghots/lanes…I’m leaning yellow or green)
3.) Dumb question but my first NIB…do you wax a new playfield before playing?
4.) PBL or Stern shaker? I had a Roadshow and that shaker was insane. Wife hated it. I’d prefer toned down over foundation rattling.
Thanks!

1 - Depends in the environment you pay it at. I put it in my AIQ b/c there isnt much going audio wise and the fan sticks out. on my IMDN, i dont even notice. Too much great music/effects/etc that I dont hear it unless the game is idle w/o play. If you have the game either at medium volume or lower, I'd say replace that fan. It can be annoying while playing. Kinda depends on how acute your hearing is to random noises.

4 - Shaker should be roughly the same on either. You can either adjust the settings and/or adjust the weights in the physical shaker to make it beefier or tone it down.

#10085 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

I am having trouble leveling the machine. I am on a rug and put the rubber feet on it. I am thinking the rubber messes things up?
But how do you start the leveling itself? I had the front 2 as the shortest setting and the back 2 in the middle. Can someone explain how they go about it from there?
I'd appreciate it.

Generally thats a good place to start. Lowest up front, then cranking it up on the rear ones. I have a digital level I have in between the flippers and make adjustments on the back ones till I get the degree I want (6.5-7, depending on game will try out different heights for a few games). But then measure left-to-right leveling. A corner might need to be raised slightly to get it right, even the front ones. And I'll measure front middle and back middle if possible.

#10122 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Once I registered my machine the insider connected worked fine. Last night I shut the machine off. Now it can't find any wifi signals.
Any suggestions? I'm not great at computers and wifi stuff. I know the wifi IS working, however.
TIA

They tend to be finicky. If rebooting didn't fix it, I'd try moving the adapter to a different USB port in the backbox as a quick troubleshoot. Not exact issue, but when I got my IMDN wouldn't take my password no matter how many times I tried. Moved it to the adjacent port and has worked flawlessly since

1 week later
#10241 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Haha am I the only idiot that lifts the playfield out.

I'm about to do my first sideart install on IMDN and DP this coming month and I'm too paranoid to work with the PF still in. Removing and putting it back looks easy enough.

2 weeks later
#10718 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Maiden is by far his weakest effort. It’s not a bad game, but the other 3 are worlds better.

Layout wise, yeah can say the rest are better. At the very least right now at home (still have GZ kinda taken apart at work), as much as we enjoy the shots of AIQ, which is my favorite shooter, we've been having more of a blast with IMDN. JP hopefully at some point over the next year or so can give that an in-home go at it.

Between the three though, I'm currently putting GZ between AIQ and IMDN with balance of shots and fun assets.

#10815 1 year ago

Havent tested it yet, but I'd guess anything with the equivalent chipset should work.

Chipset: Ralink 5370

#10891 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The Hippocratic Oath applies to mod makers, too, "first do no harm."
The problem is drilling holes in a screen printed plastic is a one-way street and that plastic is only available in a full set of plastics that may or may not be available. There has to be another way. I have a GZ Prem coming in tomorrow. I'll have a look at it.

Think that design might have been because of the Mechagodzilla spotlight thats attached in the top corner of the plastic. Its those rivet type mounting that most people might not want to try to remove and remount elsewhere. The three main lights are normal screws, so that should be easy to design into the replacement sign...its just that spotlight.

#10894 1 year ago
Quoted from Pugster:

Any thoughts on your own signs Sleal16?

They're just going to be thoughts for a good few months. I'm still playing catchup on personal stuff and current pin related requests. Been a hectic 6 months. I've even only been able to play a game or two a week =(

#10912 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

What did you do about the Mecha spotlight that is riveted to the original plastic?

Thats the Pro which doesnt have the figure. Believe those dont have the spotlight rivets

#10924 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Cheap shipping [quoted image]

Theres some weird settings that might depend on how you are logged into ebay. It shows up for 8 bucks on my end. And I have purchased these a month or so ago.

#11074 1 year ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

I bought a new flash drive. Same result. Do I have the right file sizes

I bought a new flash drive. It still won't update. Do I have the right file sizes? The 000 and 001 files are 1,953,125 kb and the 002 file is 1,957,946 kb.

downloaded the update for the Pro. 000 and 001 looks right. 002 is showing this for me: 1257946kb. Was that 9 a typo?

#11078 1 year ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

D'oh. Yes. To circle back to my original post, the update menu appears, but every time I hit Select I get "Insert USB memory stick".

I know you've done it before, but dotting 'i's' and crossing 't's'.....files in the root of the flash drive and not in a folder (not sure how the messages respond if you do have a drive inserted but cant find the files)? Tried different USB ports?

#11083 1 year ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Thanks. I think I've got all that covered. I thought I would try doing the 0.94 upgrade to eliminate one variable, but I can't find the code. Anyone?

https://f002.backblazeb2.com/file/gamecode/godzilla_pro-0_94_0.spk.zip

#11159 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphod:

Have a bud that has had a premium for a bit. He gave me a call asking for input: left flipper has started recently to often stick UP until the right flipper is flipped. His other problem is that I am an old EM guy and terms like flipper opto board are .
Other than find a more qualified friend - any advise/hints?? I may have to learn some new things. It’s my fault, I hooked him on pinball.

So it varies on why the right flipper is releasing the left one. Had that happen recently on my IMDN, but it was due to a dirty coil sleeve. It was filthy enough to get it stuck. The coil would vibrate enough to shake my stuck flipper loose when activating the opposite flilpper.

Theres also other reasons. The bushing that holds the flipper in place might be stuck....the height of the flipper might be too close or too far from the playfield and the arm underneath isnt really perpendicular to the coil path and it can jam. Coil stops as well can cause issues. Best you can start is with the glass off and see if it moves freely and in the switch test replicate it. Can see if a gentle finger tap resets the flipper.

I used this as a good reference as well:

https://www.gameroomguys.com/grg-site/how-to-docs/How-to-Pinball-Diagnosing-Flipper-Failure.pdf

3 weeks later
#11739 1 year ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

ball hangups were universal, not LE specific (and were largely one-offs), and the SDTM was mostly a level issue

Quoted from sepins:

Not a money thing. Know there were ball hangups on LE's as well as STDM from the building. Was wondering if Stern fixed some of the issues on the Newer Premiums?

Also, outside the leveling of the game, the plastics on top of the roof had some give when tightening...from what I understood. So even if the game is leveled and getting STDM, you should be able to loosen the screws, hold it off to the side slightly and re-tighten. At least thats from what I remember reading from several posts

#11959 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveH:

https://flipperfidelity.com/copy-of-stern-8-speaker-system-le-conversion-for-spike-2-pro-and-premium/
$174.95
For the ones that he listed:
Kicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial SpeakerKicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial Speaker
and "JBL Stage 810 800W Max 8" Stage Series Single 4 ohm Car Audio Subwoofer Speaker"
$70 (uppers) and $80 (lower). $150 for the three speakers needed.
So the Flipper Fidelity comes out to $25 more expensive, but also comes with the adapters to mount the upper speakers. And if I'm missing something here, feel free to let me know.

Haven't been able to find what they're comparable to, but keep in mind that just because they're the same size that they might not be the same quality. Better than the stock from prem/pro, but might not be as good as the kickers. I have kickers on two of my games so far, and another game with a different brand pre assembled upgrade kit. Price for the initial setup were about the same, but I liked the quality from my DIY option. What you get mostly in a kit is ease of installation having everything needed for hook ups in adapters.

#12018 1 year ago
Quoted from bloodonthepins:

Mine is level left/right at the top of the playfield, and at the bottom as well, and the balls all hit the tip of the left flipper when they come down. Sometimes one ball drains. Didn't Elwin say the drain was by design to avoid hitting the building as it goes back up?

Supposed to be by design. Gives the building time to reset to prevent the balls from beating that wall to death from what I understood. If you want to adjust it slightly anyway, you can loosen the screws and shift the plastic slightly, then retighten. Believe a small enough shift should change their trajectory

#12097 1 year ago
Quoted from bloodonthepins:

I did this a few days back, and it seems to have only changed the problem. The ball used to get kicked up when the game cycled through the ball search when it was at factory setting, but now it stays lost.
What's odd is this isn't happening with every ball sent through the building, some get kicked up no problem. I'll be checking the alignment of the coil bracket as suggested by dashv , hopefully that'll help.

Going to guess if your building is flush along with everything else and the ball drops into the hole behind the building...theres an obstruction underneath the PF even before reaching the vuk. Havent looked at it underneath in a while, but it should be a little cage that guides the ball to the far back. And the way you're describing it, if you hear the VUK fire in the ball search but dont hear the ball fall back down...then its just firing blanks. The second ball would help continue it down its path. Something might be either squeezed in that cage or a loose screw or something thats not letting the ball pass.

#12231 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Just ordered a few. Thanks!
I’m finding the back box speakers are OK. But the cab speaker is not giving out much bass.
Richard

Yeah, the upgrades can be incremental according to what you are finding lacking in your setup. On the Pro/Prem, can prob go with the backbox also to get a bit of extra range if after the sub is not enough. Then later can go with an amp. I havent messed with my GZ LE yet, but on my AIQ LE, kept everything stock (has that goldwood, I believe, and some kenwood 5.25"s) but added an amp only. Made a pretty drastic difference. On my two premiums I swapped all the speakers and added an amp. Worth every change. Might do an external sub later, but at the very least getting a crapload of clarity from some of the more subtle sound effects.

#12426 1 year ago
Quoted from shanksfornothin:

I just got my GZ premium in yesterday. It’s my first pin. Assume I know nothing because i don’t. Any recommendations for adjustments/set up for the game? The dist set it all up in my house for me, but he just did the basic standard set up out of the box.
The level on the inside of the game by the shorter rod has the bubble at the top, shouldn’t it be in the middle? As previously stated I’m new to this, I want to learn and take good care of this best I can. Teach me O wise pinside ones! Lol

So the middle of the bubble is roughly 6.5degrees, which is standard recommendations from Stern. Most people find enjoyment at 6.8-7.2 (give or take). This is all personal preference. All the way at the top makes it seem like its set much higher, as I think 6.8 might be about 3/4 of the way up the marker. Theres two ways to approach this. The quick way is to download a leveling app on your phone and check front-to-back leveling and side-to-side as well. Though many, including me, found the app to be slightly off. Thankfully when I got my first pin, I already had a dedicated digital leveler from my art framing, so used that that to make adjustments.

After that, it is recommended to lower the power from your ball eject into the shooter guide to help increase its longevity. From there, play and see if you notice anything "off" in the way the ball travels and such. But at the very least, start with proper leveling through a more accurate reading (instead of using the bubbles).

#12435 1 year ago
Quoted from sepins:

I hate the upper flipper when magna grab drops ball on it. It almost feels like ball is dropped too far away from flipper.
I hit it up right ramp a lot with a weak shot and it drains SDTM!
Anyone else have this issue or has it been discussed previously???

.1 degrees shift to the left with the legs can make a world of difference. People have had both extremes of the issue, either too far away or hits the top of the bat. This of course if the playfield and everything else is nice and flat.

#12481 1 year ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Thank you! Yes, I have that plastic! If I am putting on The Art of Pinball Mod, do I need to get longer screws?

Think if you dont use the bottom metal plate as an extra layer, you should be able to use the same screws. If you want that extra support, might be a close tight fit with the screw length and MechaG's arm thatts right over it

#12526 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Another +1 for Zitt 's pop bumper parts and the clear looks awesome when paired with Sleal16 's UFO Saucer!
One note - there is a slight difference in the pop bumper body (on the Stern body the molding didn't go all the way to the top around the rod holes) so I had to modify Sleal's adapter by filing it down a little. Took only a couple minutes and fit great!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks! And I got the clear kit a couple of days ago but havent had a chance to swap things out, so I'll check to see what adjustments might be needed. If its just light sanding, sounds quick.

1 week later
#12681 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

I tried the molex. I found two in the front and one small one on the back of the trough board. I removed them all and reseated. Still having the same issue. The trough just keeps shooting balls as long as it has a ball to send. I can't get out of ball one on screen.
PinMonk

Did you end up running the switch test from the menu? That nothing was firing while at rest?

#12686 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

I tried to run a switch test but it says to hit the switch. I tested the outlines and the screen registers that they were tripped. When I drop a ball between the flippers nothing happens. It doesn't register a switch. But I don't know if there is a switch there? How do I hit the trough switch? I actually don't know where it is.
But after I ran the test to see what was on (the one with the boxes) the problem stopped for a game or two. Now it's back.
When I take all the balls out I can hear the coil firing to send balls to the shooter lane.
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Please help, you all know what it's like to have a game down and be lost. I thank you for your time. I know we are all busy.

When you drop a ball into the trough, you should see all the sensors trigger on the screen really fast as the ball triggers each opto sensor. So something like "trough 6, trough 5, trough 4, etc etc" until it hits the last sensor. This specifically is on the upper right corner of the switch test screen.

#12688 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

When I drop balls during the switch test into the trough nothing happens. I removed the trough and wiped it clean. But I don't know where the opto is to see if it's clean. Is it possible some wax got on an opto in the trough? I did just wax it a few days ago.

So with a little more detail on what you can check at this point. the board you can see from where you open the coin door should have all lights off if theres no balls in it, and as the opto gets triggered, each led indiciator would light up as its active. So in the photo here, all 6 lights were on at game power on, and when i started the game the left most LED powered off since there wasnt a ball there anymore (for point of reference). Lets see if your board is working properly there first. You might even just find a long stick of some form or another you can pass through with an empty trough to see if the optos register something outside of a switch test (or roll a ball in there and see if all the lights blink as they trigger. Unless you lathered in wax, the openings in the trough should not be obstructed to block the sensor...but who knows.

2022-07-20 11.52.14 (resized).jpg2022-07-20 11.52.14 (resized).jpg
#12696 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

From what you suggested the board seems to be working properly. A folded peice of paper inserted lit the lights. Then I filled the trough with balls one by one and they all lit. I hit start and it just kept sending ball after ball into shooter. Is there something that would make it think it's in multiball? Because when a ball drains it doesn't change the screen to ball 2. It just keeps kicking balls out like it's in multiball. But I don't think there's a switch for that?

Yeah, the part we need to narrow down now is the miscommunication within the game hardware and software. You did mention before that the switch test would not give any results and now with the physical verification, the basis of the sensor is working properly. So at least now with your paper method and in switch test, as you slowly pass the paper all the optos should be triggering as you hit each one. And just to be sure, verify the interlock for the coin door is engaged to provide proper power.

If all the connectors on those boards are in their right place, firmly connected, but nothing on the switch test.... I'd gear on more of a physical issue on the board and not software related. At that point, don't know if you have another game you can swap boards out to verify

#12702 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Yes. I can see all the balls lighting as they pass optos. See my last post. I have 2 pics. When you say "on screen" you mean the board, right? Not the display screen.

display screen. like on your photo it says "right outlane". that section indicates the last switch that was triggered. Try pressing buttons or manually hitting other switches on the field, you'll see that label change according to what you engage. So if you're only doing the trough, and not touching anything else, you should see all the "trough" labels in that corner instead of "right outlane"

#12703 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Wrong test. Not switch test. Go to the ball trough test.

Or that as well

but you should still be seeing "trough" labels on that screen when you trigger those optos

#12705 1 year ago
Quoted from sidesmack40:

I’m on the waitlist for a HW Deluxe by AP due to come in at end of year. $7300 delivered. I only have room for 1 more machine (I own JP Pro). Im trying to decide if I want to change and splurge for a GZ Prem. My question, is the wait for this going to be well into 2023? And is it still going for msrp around 9k? Should I get a GZ pro instead of HW if I can’t land a Premium? My kids are 8 and 6 and love pinball so thought HW would go good next to JP.
Thanks for any advice

Theres a run this month and if they squeeze one in end of year. From what I've seen, if you do the legwork you can find one for MSRP if you call around A LOT (luck may vary). Seen people score one with little to no wait time. Someone I work with just started asking around last week and he found a place that could get him in for end of the month.

#12720 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

The trough board facing the coin slot has 2 and the board facing the Blackbox has one. I put it up to service, removed all molex and reseated all. Same problem.

Quoted from DeathHimself:

On the coinbox side, remove the three pin leaving the 5 pin, and leave the three pin on the back box board and see what happens then.

The three pin from other side is jumped/linked either from the main 5 pin or the far right 3 pin. Grabs power from either one. Seems it varies from game to game, but as long as its grabbing it from either one. Dont think it should be linked to both sources. But if the backside pin is ONLY connected to the right 3pin, shouldnt be removed.

#12723 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

tbh I don't know what an opto looks like.

Its a light sensor. In this case the board on each side of the trough has them all on the circuit. One board is the transmitter and the other is the receiver. So on one side the board you're looking at has 6 light emitters and other is detecting the signal. When something passes through it, it breaks the light signal and detects it as an activation, which is where you see the red lightss. So seeing the lights change as you pass the paper, or balls, through it indicates the optos are working and not obstructed (by wax or something). Probably no correlation to your cleaning since you mentioned you didnt go under the playfield. If all the connections are solid, might be pointing to board issue and you would need to contact Stern for a replacement. Was this your only game right now? If you had another spike2 Stern, I'd suggest swapping out the main trough board with one from another game and see if it resolves it. This of course if all the connections/pins/cables/etc are 100%

#12832 1 year ago
Quoted from sidesmack40:

I’ve been working hard calling around. One Distributor said he can get me one from this July run for $10,699 delivered ( about $1800 over msrp). Not sure it’s worth doing that. I offered him $9500 we shall see.

Yeah, might be in a pocket of waiting where people are not letting go of their spot. If you dont find one around MSRP right now, try again when they start landing. Which should be in a week or so since it seems to be on the line last week.

Really sucks they're charging that much =(

#12843 1 year ago
Quoted from Strummy:

I found this in my cabinet next to the subwoofer. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

Screen Shot 2022-07-24 at 3.45.15 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-07-24 at 3.45.15 PM (resized).png
1 week later
#13098 1 year ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

>>And other extras
pretty sure you named them all
You can add better speakers, art blades, shaker, hd glass, and have options on most of those, for hundreds of dollars..you could get your parts powder coated for hundreds of dollars albeit that's a little more hassle, but pick whatever color you want.. $2500 for those things is just not worth it, unless you just say "I don't want to buy any extra parts or do any work on my pinball machine", but that person is going to have a bad time owning a pinball machine.
If it makes you happy, it makes you happy. If money is no object and you want the 1x3" limited edition plaque, then go for it, but you can't talk about the "value" aspect of it or all the "exclusive" extras you get, at least not with a straight face

Quoted from smokinhos:

Let's do the math... shaker (100), art blades (100), hd glass (250), better speakers $100 - 50 backbox, 50 sub)... so about $550. I guess the "limited-ness", powder coating, and "extras" are worth another $1450. Another thing people forget is that the LE art package is not always the best of the bunch.
LEs just have a little too much FOMO, artificial hype, and additional price tag.
I have never personally thought an LE made sense, and always felt the best bang for the buck was the premium. Especially secondary market premiums that have things that you listed. Shakers, art or mirror blades, titans, etc...

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Have you seen prices on gz le? That 1x3 plaque is worth a fortune.

Its a shame the mirrored backglass is LE only. I generally wouldnt "care" on the version of the game, but having a mirrored game next to a normal translite makes the normal one look dull in comparison.

#13326 1 year ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Looks like you've got your alu flippers a touch lower than normal unless thats just the angle deceiving me. Is it helping with your scoop shot? I plan to order some on the next batch and try. I also notice it kind of rattles into the scoop for you when you start battle. mine never does that! the ball is alergic to the scoop and rejects on anything but a perfect shot
Guys I'm so frustrated with the scoop shot! It's not way harder than all the other shots, maser, left flipper, left ramp, all a bit tough for me, but none are as important as the scoop! To get to planet X I need to hit the scoop at least 12 times or so, assuming no seperate ally/power up collects, only 1 tank multiball and no retries on battles, just beelining it. I've got over 800 games in. I've cracked a billion a couple of times. But I've only gotten past the second city twice because of the damn scoop. I just did a game where I basically only tried to practice scoop shots (did some modes i accidentally started). Didn't shoot the left ramp once. Accidentally started two MGZ MB. Got 500M on accident in 3 balls, only got it in the scoop a few times.
So, other than "get better", anything I can do to make the scoop easier? different rubers on the adjacent posts? address the bump of the scoop protector (it's sitting flat, but still a bump). I saw someone replace a cracked protector and get better results. Mine is not cracked.

Do you feel the shot angle is tough or that even when it "looks" good theres not enough open clearance to continue the drop? I've purposely aim for lower than usual because I get decent results having the ball skit off the pop bumper. Maser is like 1-in-10 success and the scoop is 1-in-3 for me. I would check that the protector is snug and not dropping a bit, not necessarily the bump. Who knows, maybe the gap might not be big enough. Not sure how you would have a bump and still be flat.

#13417 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Hey everyone. I was checking on my machine and the trough issue. I posted a couple weeks ago and lots of people chimed in with help. So I just checked and I see this. (See pic.) The purple/orange wire is OUT. I looked at the old pics and it's hard to notice. Can someone please tell me what plug on the molex it goes in, if at all. I can't imagine it's supposed to be hanging.
Looks like good news to me. Fingers crossed. Please post a pic of your molex if you can.
Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

Hard to tell from the angle of the molex, but from the couple of plugs I'm looking at on my games at home from left to right: red, empty, purple/orange, purple/red, purple/black, black. If you have two empty spots to the right of the solid red one, should go in the right empty spot

#13430 1 year ago
Quoted from jdlang11:

That works great and pinball life sells the same for a few dollars. But shipping will get you unless you have a few things to order or I go in with a friend.

what part would it be in pinballlife? I tried searching for foam and padding and not popping up. I have an order I'm about to place and would be good timing to add this.

#13575 1 year ago
Quoted from ticktockman:

Thanks a bunch! This is my 5th pin and the first that I’ve had many out-of-the-box problems with.

Depending on the part of town you're in and if you need an assist, lmk.

#13778 1 year ago
Quoted from FullTiltPinball:

My Godzilla has landed after an 11 month wait. I have the machine setup evenly with a pitch of 6.5 / 6.6. Can anyone provide some advise on any of the below?
1) When hitting the right ramp at a slow ball speed the ball is getting stuck in the building. Even with a good knock you can't roll it out of there
2) I found the right ramp shot from the upper left flipper unobtainable until I corrected the pitch (6.7). This is still a difficult shot to make. How often can you make that shot? Is this more about me not making an ideal shot, flipper strength degrading with heat?
3) I have a Stern shaker motor installed. It vibrates the hell out of the translite as there is a few mm up the top for it to move. I was looking at cutting some carboard or other material to fill the gap.
4) Let me see how I go explaining this one without a picture. Can you make this one shot from the left tank shot behind the upper left flipper to the right orbit (minilla/destruction jackpot) and loop around? Mine always falls short of making it through the orbit. I'm wondering if I'm a bad shot or the machine pitch/level is out.
Thanks
[quoted image]

The way the ball is sitting stuck there points to an issue with possibly the alignment of the metal guide. The edge of the guide should meet with the wall preventing the ball to rest on the inside. Here's how that metal piece should look like. Can try loosening the wall screws to see if there's wiggle room to shift that over, else needs to be adjusted maybe disassembled

PXL_20220814_232626318 (resized).jpgPXL_20220814_232626318 (resized).jpg

#13788 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

This lock I don’t believe has ever been hit. This game only has about 100 plays on it.. I check the connector by the opto and nothing. If I unplug the VUK opt it fires the coil. Something is wrong here.. When the green arrows lights the building lock nothing happens it just spits the ball out to the left.
[quoted image]

You say the building lock is ready for GZ MB but it just shoots it out to the side of the building? meaning the building is not moving down to the second floor? If the floor is not moving, then wouldnt be a VUK issue, but a building motor possibly.

#13791 1 year ago
Quoted from FullTiltPinball:

My Godzilla has landed after an 11 month wait. I have the machine setup evenly with a pitch of 6.5 / 6.6. Can anyone provide some advise on any of the below?
1) When hitting the right ramp at a slow ball speed the ball is getting stuck in the building. Even with a good knock you can't roll it out of there
2) I found the right ramp shot from the upper left flipper unobtainable until I corrected the pitch (6.7). This is still a difficult shot to make. How often can you make that shot? Is this more about me not making an ideal shot, flipper strength degrading with heat?
3) I have a Stern shaker motor installed. It vibrates the hell out of the translite as there is a few mm up the top for it to move. I was looking at cutting some carboard or other material to fill the gap.
4) Let me see how I go explaining this one without a picture. Can you make this one shot from the left tank shot behind the upper left flipper to the right orbit (minilla/destruction jackpot) and loop around? Mine always falls short of making it through the orbit. I'm wondering if I'm a bad shot or the machine pitch/level is out.
Thanks
[quoted image]

I took a better shot from the top side. where the metal guide ends prevents the ball from resting up against the inside of the front wall like in your photo. Can you take a photo of the way that area looks without the ball?

2022-08-14 20.46.13 (resized).jpg2022-08-14 20.46.13 (resized).jpg
#13870 1 year ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

So maybe not just me.

LMFAO

This hadn't occurred to me, I am using Titan replacement rubbers. I replaced them early on so no other gameplay too compare them.

The same thing is messing with my head....I havent replaced it on my GZ yet, but on IMDN recently put on perfect-play and went from 1 airball every 100-200 games or so with stock rubbers, to multiple jumps per game now. I've used them before but first time its happened. Maybe they need to be stretched out a bit *shrug. Its annoying for sure

3 weeks later
#14651 1 year ago
Quoted from troon47:

I'm curious how you get the ball up the right ramp from the left flipper. Mine barely has power to make the loop, let alone the ramp (and that's with replacement coils, etc.). I think I read somewhere on here that the game was not designed to make the right ramp shot from the left flipper?

not from the upper left, but its to be made with the lower left. leaf switchposition, coil sleeves and/or stops, alignment of the flipper shaft arm attached to the clamp, position of the tip at rest....these are the commons hiccups that would make the shot harder than it should. theres a few more things to check, but i usually start with these first

#14683 1 year ago
Quoted from troon47:

Curious if anyone has a way to clean the glass without leaving bad streaks. I've tried most of the "streak-free" products and various applicators, but still get them really bad. Thanks.

I use glasses or laptop screen sprays that don't have any chemicals that'll erode the film of the glass. Then a good micro fiber cloth helps wiping it off without streaks

#14685 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Try 100% isopropyl alcohol - can usually buy it in a spray bottle from the hardware store.

Especially if he's cleaning the LE glass, pure alcohol can ruin the anti glare coating.

#14689 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

For PDI/invisiglass its actually recommended for it. Been using it forever on all varieties.
And on regular glass it also works well - there is nothing to ruin.

Quoted from mstang01:

I think it’s ammonia you need to avoid with the anti glare

Yeah, ammonia for sure. I've ruined eyeglasses with alcohol, so had that as part of my mantra for a while. but been 10-15 years since i did that so I might have been misremembering

1 week later
#14970 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I tried to download the 1.0 code for the premium from the stern site, but the file is labeled godzilla-le-1_00-0spk.zip is this mislabeled or is this the code for the LE?

They both use the same code

#15019 1 year ago

Front of the building is metal b/c its expected to get his often when its going up/down during play. The sides are normal plastic though, so if anything that can crack with airballs, but already at an awkward angle to get hit often. I've seen photos of balls stuck on the sides, but those instances should be rare

#15060 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_E:

Maybe that's it...maybe it's not going low enough to lift the guard and release the balls
Thanks I'll keep reading but haven't seen it mentioned yet

Quoted from awesome1:

The guard gets pushed up when the building lowers, there isn't a solenoid or anything that lifts it.
I'm not at my machine to confirm what it lowers into to raise the guard.

Theres a post/nub/etc that sticks up. When the building lowers, the roof tab will be pressed upon that post as the building goes lower. If the building is perfectly leveled and having issues, I'd check that post area in the building test. If its not going high enough by a small margin, a quick fix might be some washers or something similar to give it the extra height.

Same, not at my game right now to double check the exact post position.

1 week later
#15383 1 year ago
Quoted from Galdaien:

Are inserts having "cracks" normal for NIB? Several inserts have them, most noticeably the large MechaGodzilla insert. I might be nitpicking or maybe this is normal, just wanted some opinions.
Also on top of one of the buildings is a pretty obvious scuff but it can't be seen until you get the playfield out a bit. Is it worth bringing up with Stern?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine has the same scuff on top of the building. Its under the wood part, so not really visible. Getting replaced anyway with other stuff, but if I was to keep it there, wouldnt notice it.

2 months later
#18029 1 year ago
Quoted from troon47:

I'm having an ongoing problem with the building on my LE. When a ball goes up on top, a new one isn't served up to plunge...have to wait from 1/2 to a full minute (with the timer running down) and then it does a ball search....building collapses, and you lose the ball or balls you had up there. It does it with 1 ,2 , or all 3 balls. Anyone else experience this? Thanks.

It sounds like an opto is not registering. theres two VUK optos used for the ball lock. go into switch test and manually run a ball to that area. see if both "VUK
Opto" and "VUK Exit Opto" register. if one doesnt, could be either a wire issue or alignment of the sensor themselves

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