(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

4 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 6,525 posts
  • 628 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by DakotaMike
  • Topic is favorited by 378 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 90 votes
    16%
  • PREMIUM 266 votes
    48%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 198 votes
    36%

(554 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1374 Removing the ugly Insider sticker on the backbox. Posted by PinMonk (77 days ago)

Post #3000 Register Your Game With Insider Connected Posted by TrixTrix (60 days ago)

Post #3546 Backbox brightness adjustment Posted by Chisox (53 days ago)

Post #4481 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Building stepper adjustment settings Posted by Palmer (37 days ago)

Post #6364 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Bridge and Building adjustments Posted by koops (4 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2046 70 days ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

An operator helped me to pick up my pin from Little Shop Of Games (thanks Courtland!) and mentioned that his pro on location was seeing much higher ball damage than normal and that I should replace the balls more frequently than I’m used to.
When installing the playfield protector I noticed the possible cause: a really sharp exposed set of edges in the back left where the ball goes up the left ramp. I had noticed a lot of rattling when this shot doesn’t quite make it and this area appears to be the cause of the ball wear and rattling. (See picture). I cut one of the larger stock rings that I had removed and stuffed it in between the two metal edges in an attempt to lessen this ball damage. I made sure that it sits a bit proud of the edges. After putting it all back together and playing, it seems to make a significant difference with the rattling effect and the rubber appears to want to stay in place.
Anybody have a better idea on how to fix this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

This is really valuable intel'. There was a similar ramp on the shooter lane of my Munsters and the ball would sometimes get pushed into the air then snag on a habit trail and foul the launch. The fix I did, which Stern seems to have adopted for later Munsters builds, was to bevel the edge to smooth the transition. Might do this on my 'Zilla before first play, and as always will start with new balls. Only needed to bevel the starting edge on Munsters but you'd go up as high as you could with GZ.

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#2580 64 days ago

I've also found on my Aerosmith that when I switched to 4ohm speakers, the sounds is far better on the 8ohm setting. Doesn't make any sense but the soundstage is a lot wider and less compressed.

#2822 61 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I have a Star Trek Premium that does all of this and more. It was Stern's first all-RGB insert game and one of the main reasons to upgrade from a Pro. Pinsiders complained about the inserts looking dull and dead when they weren't lit and that Stern should have left them as colored inserts like the Pro!

That's a great point. I had a Rick and Morty, and same thing - when unlit it looks very ordinary. But that's the price hey. Works a treat when you cycle through the modes. Maybe a combination is a good solution. I was amazed at the number of lights in GnR when I saw one for the first time!

#3255 57 days ago

Can we talk more about Godzilla and less about COVID shortages?

I’m counting the days for mine, had a handful of games recently on a Pro and thought it was the perfect mix of vast shot options and not too deep rules. I love that.

#3462 53 days ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

I went a bit bigger on my pro. Love it!

Fantastic! Always thought being taller than the building was the way to go. And that’s something you couldn’t really do as well on a Prem/LE!

#3568 53 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

He's perfect with those blue fins, but AUD$550....ouch!
And then this......double ouch[quoted image]

4 easy payments though

#3878 48 days ago

Replacing that broken under-bridge plastic with a new piece AND protector is only going to make it more prone to breakage though wouldn't it? Almost looks like the bridge plastic needs a little Dremelling. Or just use a plastic protector without the plastic - that way you get to see the captive ball!

#3973 47 days ago

We all have different opinions of course - personally I think the Pinstadiums are not good. The first one you basically lose all the colour on the playfield, and only see the colour of the lights. The second one is just too bright, and you also lose the colour when it flashes.

I usually prefer the standard lighting - often it's supposed to be dark to up the difficulty in certain scenarios.

1 week later
#4474 37 days ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

Just touching on the guys who immediately replace the speakers, I have never thought the spike audio quality wasn't good. Infact it's much better stock than any other pinball system.

Clearly you haven’t heard Spooky or JJP then. Both embarrass the Stern audio by a huge margin!

#4554 36 days ago

I think the Pro version is great. The omissions are just things that look cool. Gameplay itself is largely unaffected (unlike eg Aerosmith).

#4805 32 days ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Wanted to share a mod I designed with the help of toyotaboy and callmesteam

Absolutely epic. Well done man, this is superb!!

#4993 29 days ago
Quoted from Av8:

Played the Pro for an hour today. The code seems a unfinished. No clear objective or goals. The shot to left ramp is a bit too tight imo. The scoop shot is right on the end of the flipper. I finally started a mode in Toyko and brought in the Godzilla MB. Still never finished the mode. 4 left ramps and 4 right. Tough game to get going. Never did get Mechzilla Mode going even after hit that spinner multiple games.
The start screen should tell you what your trying to accomplish. Save cities? Destroy cities? Kill aliens. Tanks do what? The Ray does what? Am I Godzilla?
Avengers is a superior Keith Elwin game IMO.

I laughed but you do make valid points. “Am I Godzilla?” Hahaaaa. I also have no idea as I’m sitting on the ocean floor waiting for my Premium to arrive .

1 week later
#5323 22 days ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

i bought a new set of speakers and the light kit to try on one of my premiums, but then I saw you needed to solder. Is it basically just heat up the weld, remove wires and then reheat with new solder on new speaker wires?

You don’t need to solder. You can snip the wires off the speakers, strip (the wire) and install (crimp) spade connectors, the slide them onto the new speakers.

#5498 19 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Great work. Would you mind sharing it on thingverse?

Ditto, although I found this which could be good. Haven't tried it yet (my Xmas Ender 3 lasted all of 3 hours )
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716733

#5881 14 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

All this talk about speakers and subs etc.... I have a question for the tech pro's here lol.
If I purchased and external amp to amplify the back box speakers which will be 5.25" and the 8" cabinet sub, in addition to having a Polk PSW10 powered sub under the machine how would I do all these hookups?
I do have the Pinnovators spike adapter kit as well.
Here is the powered amp:
amazon.com link »

Since that amp has no aux output, you've got two options; if your sub has a line level output, then use a Pinnovators (or equiv) sub line out adaptor to give you an RCA out. RCA cable to your sub first, then RCA from line out on the sub, to your Amazon amp. An indirect benefit to this method is that you'll have better timing on the sub (less lag as it will fire ever so slightly earlier than the main speakers, so hopefully arrive at your ears at the same time). The alternate option is a splitter cable before the amp and sub. Another option is that if your sub accepts speaker-level input, then you can just connect it in parallel off the cabinet woofer.

Only problem I see for you is - how are you going to run the cabinet woofer in a low-pass configuration? You really don't want the high frequencies getting to the sub as it will pull the soundstage down from where it should be....

Personally I'd try just the sub line out adaptor and sub first. The audio isn't high-fidelity. If it were a music pin or something with an intense movie soundtrack then there's more reason to, but for this title I'm not sure it's as necessary.

#5952 12 days ago

I would install that version in a flash. GOLD!!

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