That's a great sub. The same on included in a few of the name brand upgrades. I wouldn't pay $65 for it, though. I've bought 4 of them for $35/ea.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ0S88

Note: you'll need a spacer ring to properly mount this particular unit, as the speaker excursion extends beyond the face. Some folks remove the speaker mesh instead, but this is dicey, as the cabinet hole is just slightly smaller than needed to properly accomodate the speaker excursion. I 3D printed a spacer fairly easily. YMMV.

This isn’t the ideal solution. A spacer is better. The hole in the cabinet is just a touch smaller than that required to accomodate proper speaker excursion.

I 3D printed my spacer. There’s a generic spacer on Thingiverse. I had to scale it up in my slicer; I’ll find the settings and link for you when I get home later today.

edit: I used the following. You’ll have to scale this in your slicer. The 8 holes in these were key. 4 of them fit over the existing bolts. I then used self-tapping wood screws to secure the speaker to the floor with the other 4 holes.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236894
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That box is a ferrite core for EMI. There’s nothing inside to see but 2 magnets. If you do open it up, be sure to loop the wires back exactly as in your pic. ‘cause, physics. How do I know? Inductive reasoning.

I’ve ordered several speaker light kits the last 2 months, and each was delivered very promptly, typically in 4-5 days from my order. Super-happy with these and the service. Just FYI. Results below.

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Check again. Sometimes, a tiny bit of wood covers the holes. Poke up from the captured nuts underneath

Take a picture of the bottom of the cabinet from underneath. Should have 4 captured nuts for the shaker.

Poke a small tool through those holes. It will pop out the thin wood disks covering your holes.

It's fine. Move the braid a bit to uncover the hole. No big deal.

Please forgive a more general question here, but it relates to GZ and other Sterns. I’ve seen many posts that state the stock flipper coil stocks are junk. Several posts say the stops only lasted a few hundred games, etc.

My question is, what constitutes a failed coil stop for a newer Stern? Anything to look for? On heavily routed games I restored years ago, really well-used stops got mushroomed. Is this the issue? I’ve ordered a dozen replacements in anticipation of replacement. I’d appreciate knowing what to look for. Thanks.

Got it, thank you. Good advice on the sleeves, too. I do this whenever I see any type of wear on the mech.

FYI, I unboxed my June 18, 2022 build GZ Premium last week. It has several QC issues:

-coin box wasn’t secured with a clip and was just banging around;
- the left playfield support (retained by 3 captured bolts and nuts) wasn’t tightened at all. All 3 nuts were loose in the cabinet and the bolts hadn’t yet been tightened to draw them into the wood
-shooter rod was badly misaligned. Needed shims and adjustment to get it properly working

FYI.

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For those that are modding their pop bumper to a clear body, be aware of the following (most of you know this, but there's a few newer hobbiest here that may not have restoration experience):

The clear bumper skirt I was supplied is too-long compared to stock (see pic). As you need to remove the RGB light to work on this, you'd be bummed to discover this fact after you reassemble everything. Let's get it right the first time, during your install:

You need to VERY carefully shorten the actuator on the clear bumper skirt. [Note: shortening is considerably easier than re-gapping the spoon switch on the bumper. Spoon switches are notoriously finicky, and it takes careful work and the right gapping tools to do that job properly; best to avoid it if possible. You can screw up a spoon switch pretty easily if you don't know what you're doing]

The amount of shortening needed is tiny. I'd suggest ever-so-slightly filing/sanding the tip to a rounded end. I used a hobby belt sander; hand sanding or filing will work if you're careful. Reinstall with the body and base, screw it down, and go into the switch test. Confirm operation (off in neutral; on when the skirt is slightly depressed). Better to have the switch constantly on when you start, with the post too-long. Remove, sand/file off a tiny bit(I mean TINY), and reinstall. Repeat this until you have reliable operation.

The clear body looks great, a fine mod to those that suggested it, above. Good luck.
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Zitt, thanks so much for supplying the clear pop bumper parts. Take a look at the pic I posted, above. The skirt actuator was roughly 1/16" too long. That's way more than any gapping of the spoon switch will accomodate without major adjustments. Perhaps Stern is using a different-spec skirt in their pop bumpers? I'd be happy to send you the old pop bumper skirt I removed from my GZ for your inspection. The picture shows the difference clearly.

edit: I measured each. The stock Stern GZ skirt is 1.77mm shorter (.07"). That's quite a bit for a spoon switch. Usually spoon switch tolerance/actuation is around 0.5mm
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Absolutely correct. I checked this. Both the skirt and the upper portion are the same width in these parts. My measurement is accurate. The difference in actuator length is 1/16" almost exactly from bottom of skirt surface to the tip.

None-the-less, here's a direct measurement of the actuator length from tip to skirt. Difference is 1.9mm.

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This isn't that big a deal, honestly. Your skirts and other pop bumper parts are great! Highly recommended. Be aware, if someone installs these skirts with no other modifications to their GZ, they'll trigger the spoon switch to always on. They'll either need to shorten the actuator or fairly dramatically adjust the leafs in the switch. If someone doesn't have experience adjusting leaf switches, that could be an issue.

Shortening the actuator isn't hard. It's far-easier with the skirt out of the machine. My purpose in making folks aware of this issue was to give them a chance to adjust for the actuator length difference at the time of the install. FYI.

Takes about 20 minutes give or take. Hardest part is you have to unsolder 4 wires for the internal RGB light, then resolder these wires again. Everything else is just screws and nuts (as well as confirming the correct operation of the spoon switch).

Here’s the rgb light in the original pop bumper and the terminal bus where you unsolder/resolder the wires:
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QC on NIB Sterns hasn't been that great of late. It appears Stern is pushing to get as many machines out the door as they can to cover backlogs. Who knows who's been hired and is working on these. Assembly of a pin is complex, obviously. My NIB GZ had half the playfield supports unbolted (pic posted back in this thread).

My expectation is that a NIB pin is going to need a lot of tuning and other care/setup. It's not like a consumer box that comes home, plugs in, and works without any intervention.

+1 for Zitts parts. They work great, and the clear base is absolutely a must for Godzilla. Looks good on Iron Maiden as well.
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Link for the saucer mod?

Another highly recommended GZ mod is Chrome Candy’s various metal parts. If you have the Prem/LE, the metal bridge parts are essential. These plastic parts have a tendency to crack on many machines, especially the covering over the Newton ball that the bridge bashes. Note: install of the bridge panels is one of the more invasive mods. You do a lot of disassembly and should be comfortable as such.

And I second the recommendation to put quiet-fans in the Stern Power supplies. I do this on all my Sterns. The original fan (apparently made by Pratt and Whitney?) is obnoxiously loud in a home environment.

Replace the fan inside the Meanwell 48V power supply. It's cheap and easy.

I've occasionally had ramp shots that deposit the active ball on top of the building while its raising. This stalls the game, as the building top has no way of knowing ball presence. Full ball search/building drop is then required to keep playing.

Start with the switch matrix. Do you see a row or column with everything active? If so, find the common line and find where's it's potentially grounded or broken. I'd start with the shooter lane switch. Is this working properly?

In the menu system. Under diagnostics > switch (sw)

page 17-19 in this manual: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf

I found and purchased a GZ premium during the last production run in June. Here’s how. As soon as Stern started shipping GZ Premiums, I called every dealer and distributor within about 800 miles of my location. I stated I had cash (literally, cash) and could come pick it up at their locale on a schedule that was most convenient to them. This worked. I paid a bit less than MSRP and no shipping/tax. Had a GZ prem 3 days after I started looking. With another round of GZ prem coming soon, this may work for you. Good luck.

Have you confirmed your shooter lane switch isn't stuck closed? That would cause this behavior...

Outstanding. And congratulations. That makes two of us that have procurred a GZ Prem on short notice using the same technique.

Two most important mods for me (on any new Stern) are shaker motor and quiet fan for the power supply. My gameroom is really quiet. Those stock fans must be made by Pratt and Whitney, they’re ridiculously loud when they cycle. Pretty sure you could prime a Rolls Royce turbine with those things…

That white UFO saucer looks great with the white pop bumper parts. I went silver to go with the clear pop bumper upgrade.

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Not quite. 7/16" is quite rare in pins. 11/32" however is very common. The 4 sizes of nut drivers you want to purchase are: 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", and 3/8". I've had this set for almost 30 years, used every time I service a pin.
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I'm so used to this set, I don't think size. I just think, I need the yellow driver for that nut... I'll bet many long-time pinheads do exactly the same.

Ok, that GZ topper is epic. I'll be the first to ask, where did you source this?

Yes, and it’s super easy. I have to remove the heads on my games to get them into my basement gameroom. I LOVE the new Stern Spike 2 games for this. Takes literally about 5 minutes to remove the head. Roughly 6 plugs to undo and 2 bolts. Presto, ready to move.

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I have a very tight 180 on my stairway on the way to my basement. Head removal is the only way to get pins down these stairs and tight hallway with sharp turns.
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Weight reduction for moving couldn’t be easier on the new Sterns. You can remove any or all of the following in just a minute or two: backbox, glass, playfield. If you really want light weight, do all three and move the bare cabinet.

Not a chance. On my stairs, the clearance is about 28”. Stern + backbox is about 30”. Stern box is 31” square. Literally won’t fit. Barely fits with the cabinet (only) on an appliance dolly. I have to slide the dolly around the corner to gain clearance to rotate it 180 degrees to continue moving.

All my games have shakers. Both Stern and Pinball Life versions (rev C). I prefer the Pinball Life version. It's not only cheaper, I think the shaker effect is smoother and not as harsh. YMMV. Good luck.

It's a Newton Ball. Hits a switch at the top of the lane.

Swap the wifi dongle from GZ with one of the games that downloaded quickly. That will isolate whether its the dongle or perhaps the location of your GZ. In my house, speeds vary widely just moving the games a few feet. Good luck.

Am I the only one that doesn't care for the colored Lexan sling protectors? I mean, I'd love for them to work as the colored edge looks awesome. I just don't care for the GI lighting getting the same color tint.

Check the usual stuff. Make sure you're not pinching any cables or there's anything else between the backbox and cabinet. Take off the translite and lower the speaker panel and exam both pass through holes for obstructions. If all that's ok, then consider removing the hinge bolts to see if the backbox will sit flat on the cabinet. Proceed from there.

Regarding “tough” shots in any pinball. Adjust your flipper angles. For me, I could never make the tower shot off the upper flipper on JP. In frustration, I lowered the upper flipper just a bit (more “droopy”), and BANG, now I hit that shot much more consistently. I find the left ramp shot on GZ very, very easy now. I can loop the ramps endlessly (disclosure: I installed the Precision Flip system with bushings, that helped tremendously, too, in improving my consistency).

Thank you, I was not aware of that. My flipper is set as shown, more "droopy" than the dot, but only from the center. I'll try it aligned with the face. Appreciate this.
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I'm hesitant to speak up here. I come to this thread for GZ info, and I appreciate everyone that posts on that topic. I think I speak for at least a couple of us when I say, might you consider taking this dispute to an appropriate thread?

And one tiny bit of insight from a customer of yours: it's not a good look to publicly bash potential customers online, excessively so. I'm honestly hesitant to place another order, for fear that should an issue arise, I'll get the same treatment or you'll have the same defensive attitude for solving any problems. It's pinball. An enjoyable hobby. Last thing I want is more drama and grief.

If you product is good, it will speak for itself. The more someone feels a need to denigrate a competing product and customers, the more likely I am to avoid them all together. Maybe I'm alone in this. Under promise, over deliver. Peace.

Precision flip in green w/light blue Titan silicone.

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Does the spoon switch register in the switch test?

It's not your imagination. The flipper mechs in Godzilla are fairly unique in that the orientiation of the mech is such that the plunger falls amost exactly downhill on release. This gives more flipper bounce on GZ than any other recent Stern title. I, too, noticed they're a bit louder and have a bit more rebound as a result.

That's normal. The Precision Flip flippers and bushing will eliminate that. I've measured this on a dial indicator, btw. Stock setup is about 14 mils of movement; Precision flip is 1 mil.

talk to any machinist. mil = 0.001" That's the units on the dial indicator, below.

Not to be pedantic, but a mil has always been 1/1000 of an inch. Never, anywhere, was the term "mil" associated with the term "mm".

https://www.thefreedictionary.com/mil

There’s two kinds of countries in the world. Those that use the metric system. And those that put a man on the moon.

They look fantastic. I recommend the other Chrome Candy GZ upgrades as well (Newton ball cover and rotating spinner cover).

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That's not been my experience. I've found it a bit easier to make drop catches. I'm using Titan low-bounce rubber, and haven't had either of those issues myself.

That looks great! We’ll done!

This is the NECA Godzilla vs Mothra 1964 6” figure. I prefer the gray over the green coloring, so this was a good option. See also the Super7 Mothra and Jet Jaguar in the wide view. Both available on Amazon for about $10.

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They’re currently $26 for both figures (including shipping) on Amazon. FYI.

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Titan Silicone Light Blue.
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As you have the coin door open, be sure to pull out the interlock switch to give 48V power to the QR reader before going into the menus to setup IC.

Yes, you have to desolder the 4 RGB leads from the bus-bar under the playfield in order to remove the light and replace the pop bumper parts. See pic, below. If you don't have the ability to desolder then solder these, you might be able to cut each wire with enough room to use wire nuts to reattach them. I wouldn't recommend that, but I've seen far-worse splices on many games.
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Please, don't do this. The reasons I said "I've seen worse splices" than wire nuts is that just twisting wires (without a wire nut) is a recipe for long-term problems in a pinball. Twisted wires can corrode, often to the point of loss of electrical conductivity. The repeated shocks and movement can lead to wires loosening. Though wire nuts are designed to handle some of these issues, they're not great. Honestly, you shouldn't be doing any mechanical wire joints at all in pinball, just learn to to solder and do it right the first time. No hacks, please.

My honest review is I'm 97% happy with these. The design and "pop" of the buildings is fantastic! My only complaint is the clear filament used for the windows. These are opaque, and you see the flashers through them. IMHO, they both filter too much light and really show the layer lines from the printing. It's the only element of these that's less than premium in feel/polish. And to not just complain but offer a fix: perhaps Mezel would consider an opaque film applied after printing as an alternative (and not try to print the windows in clear filament). Other than this, they're fantastic. I still highly recommend them, they're a significant upgrade for GZ.

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No, not at all. I think it fits the theme really well. It's an urban streetscape. So I like the signage, windows, buildings, etc. I especially like how each sign is well integrated into each building. They're easier to read and see, too, which helps newer players. Each sign is so distinct.

You don't have to take my word for it. There's plenty of pics of the backwall completely replaced with Mezel buildings, such as my pic, above. Decide what you like and go from there.

If you're soldering the connection shown here, and covering with heat shrink, that's a perfectly good fix. These look fine, honestly. I'd have no issue with this type of repair.

Now, given that you're soldering, it's really no different that soldering to the bus bar, but that's a small detail. Either way, you gotta solder these leads. No shortcuts there.

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You need to adjust the spoon switch under the pop bumper. This is a sensitive job. Just the slightest of tweaks here. It's best to use a leaf adjustment tool (pic below) for this. You can use needle nose pliers, but there's not a lot of room to grab the individual blade and ever-so-slightly twist it to increase the distance between the contact points. This is a common repair, and it's good to learn how. Be advised: you can screw up leaf switches pretty quickly if you don't know what you're doing. Novices tend to bend the various leafs in the switch WAY too much. Be super-light in your touch, and only slightly bend one leaf in the desired direction. Good luck.

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One thing you might try is reversing the positions of the transmitter and recieve optos on the VUK. (rarely) odd reflections and light can interfere with ball detection. Reversing the positions of these 2 LEDs might solve that problem. Worth a try.

Yes, that post is different sizes. I just installed the Naegele building mod, and my post was about 1/4" too high. I just removed the height on my grinder, but that may not be an option for some. FYI.

Assume you mean game-specific? If not, shaker motor, invisiglass, precision flip, and maybe better speakers would be top of my list. For game-specific, most stuff is just cosmetic, some of it really well done. The one for-sure mod is Chrome Candy's bridge plate and newton-ball cover. The plastic OEM parts can and do break.

Most of the newer Sterns have a player-controlled option to attempt the Wizard mode as an alternative start. I’m guessing they’ll do the same with GZ.

I broke the exact same parts on mine.

Hex standoff is: 3", 6-32 thread both ends.

Post is: 2-1/2" Tall Metal Post With 10-32 Threaded Base and 6-32 threaded Top

I got mine from Pinball life.

Here's the links:

https://www.pinballlife.com/2-12-tall-metal-post-with-10-threaded-base-and-6-threaded-top.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-hex-spacers-2-3-6-32-thread-femalefemale.html

I don't think so. Weird.

Zitt ships from Texas.

Be forewarned: it’s unfortunately pretty easy to screw up leaf-switches when adjusting them. As someone said, TINY movements. You can use fingers/pliers at some risk of overdoing things. I strongly recommend use of the adjustment tool posted above.

And as was advised early in this thread for installation of the pop bumper skirts: after you shave down the skirt actuator, assemble and test function in the switch test before you solder in the lights. Make sure it’s activating in the switch tests, not the pop-bumper test (which just activates the coil and doesn’t test the spoon switch).

Chrome Candy metal parts.

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That’s not normal. Check your left mech under the table to be sure the flipper end-of-strock (EOS) pawl isn’t interfering with a bolt head. Common problem on Stern flipper mechs, and this is exactly the result, the flipper doesn’t move over the full-range of motion.

If your EOS pawl is touching a bolt head, you’ll need to rotate the pawl back away from the bolt.

nvm

Not this again.

Stern coil stops are an embarrassment. They'll all eventually loosen and/or fall out. Replace with good ones from Pinball Life, Marcos, or equivalent.

Genius! Ideal solution, thanks!

Looks like someone holstered a soldering iron there. Very strange. QC caught it, but then it slipped through.

This question is asked nearly every day. There's probably 1000's of posts with advice. IMHO, the 3 most important mods are: invisiglass, shaker motor, and Precision Flip system. YMMV.

For a stuck flipper, could be a couple of things: broken return spring, busted coil stop, or interference between flipper link and bushing mounting bolts. For any of these, you’ll need to look under the PF and diagnose. If you need help, post a pic of your flipper mech from underneath.

Do the flipper buttons register in the switch test? Do the flipper coils fire in the coil test? Be sure to pull out the HV interlock switch when testing. Once you get those results, we can provide further suggestions to narrow this down.

Did you check both the coil and switches in test mode? This is usually due to an improperly gapped switch on the sling.

v1.0.2 of the code just dropped. Here's the change file:

V1.02.0 - November 22nd, 2022
=============================
- Mainplay Background - fixed an issue where the background could crash occasionally with a dark black area in the middle of the screen
- Tilt - fixed an issue where the building could get stuck forever on a Tilt that happens when the 3rd ball is locked for Godzilla Multiball
- Imposter Battle - now allow Skill Shot rollunder switch OR Spinner begin will trigger the Imposter
- Imposter Battle - now offer the Imposter if your Magna Grab is killed because the ball didn't catch on the magnet
- Heat Ray - now allowed to work during the grace period of modes
- City Carnage Bonus - fixed an issue in multiplayer games where players could sometimes get multiplied Carnage Bonus when their city mode had already drained out
- Destruction Jackpot - the red warning lightshow will now last as long as it needs to make it to the 3 - 2 - 1 countdown
- Destruction Jackpot - the Pop Bumper lamp has now been added to the red warning light show
- Godzilla Multiball - increase the music volume slightly for the alternate music tracks
- Mechagodzilla Multiball - added a rainbow cycle to the Shield lights when the mode starts
- Tail Whip - kill the display sound effects if it is interrupted
- Tail Whip - fixed an issue with how the background video was cropped on the display
- Loops - kill the display sound effects if it is interrupted
- Planet X - added a lightshow when Godzilla is extracted to be moved to Planet X
- Earth Bonus - added a lightshow to match the display effect
- King of the Monsters - added a lightshow and shaker motor to the Part 1 intro
- King of the Monsters - added a lightshow and shaker motor to the Part 2 intro
- King of the Monsters - added lightshows and shaker motor to the Win / Lose scenarios

- Adjustment Changes:
- for "GODZILLA MB MUSIC DEFAULT" - added another selection called "RANDOM MUSIC" that will auto choose one of the selections at random

- System - Updated to V3.27.0 on OS: V2.7.0

- Added Connectivity Icon (Ethernet or WiFi Signal Bars) to attract mode
Insider Connected screens. The Icon will be displayed in the upper
right corner with the number of credits/free play.

- Blink selected icon in Service Menu Dot Matrix menus

Dammit. Got me by about 18 secs. I blame Comcast....

NAVL (North American Van Lines) via Michelle has done an outstanding job moving unboxed pins. I’ve done at least a half-dozen shipments with them to/from Albuquerque with no issues at all.

Yes. I believe its under Utilities>Install Presets.

Of course. Download to a USB and follow the directions on the sticker in the backbox.

I assume you meant online-updates. You need to register your game with Stern as part of the network setup and for that, you need an IC account. Doesn't necessarily have to be your account, just an account that you have access to so you can verify during the process.

Very likely a small burr on either the coil sleeve or coil plunger. The spring was forcing the coil (and sleeve) just a bit harder against the plunger, and some burr/defect was catching just enough to keep it from releasing. Always a good idea to replace the sleeve when troubleshooting flipper issues, and carefully looking at the plunger for scratches, dents, etc. and replace if needed.

The other possibility was a slight misalignment between coil and stop. Loosen your coil stop slightly, settle the coil by moving the flipper and releasing a few times, then retighten. As you installed the flat spring a couple times and saw repeat behavior, this cause is less likely in my opinion as your reinstallation was unlikely to consistenly get misalignment.

IMHO, the 3 most important mods for GZ are the same as any other Spike 2 game: shaker, invisiglass, and Precision Flip.

As for GZ-specific mods, the Chrome Candy metal pieces are nearly mandatory, especially the plastic over the captive Newton ball. This plastic will break on a premium. Best to remove it and replace with metal. The Stumblor Scoop sign is probably the best cosmetic mod for GZ, and there's a long wait list for this as a result. I can also recommend the Mezel back-wall buildings. They're a significant improvement over the premium/LE flat-panel riveted plastics, though quite pricey for the full set.

Personally, I'd start with Precision Flip and a Shaker motor.

Has anyone installed Pinstadium lights in GZ? If so, to what flasher (or other circuit) did you connect the UV-effects? Thanks.

Too funny. I posted the exact same suggestion with the exact same picture when Dug asked me the exact same question. I spent 45 minutes googling for the location of the power plug as Dug's instructions weren't clear to me, as apparently they weren't clear to you, either.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/16#post-6970877

Light Blue Titans.

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Is this confirmed? The UV circuit connection on the PinStadium control board is just a sensor, there's no appreciable power draw through that circuit. I note others have said they have connected to this the shaker.

I tried the UV on the Maser Flasher, and it's on way-too much for my taste. This includes lighting up the UV strips about 1/3 of the time in attract mode. Whenever there's any current to the Maser flasher, the UV strips light up, including when that flasher is turned on dimly for overall lighting effects. I'd much prefer very sparing use of the UV strips, and the shaker motor seems ideal, actually (including the fact I can adjust how often the shaker activates).

Funny thing, I was just looking at the game cycle through attract modes to see if there's any sparsely-used lights, and I saw exactly this light as a possible candidate. I'll give it a try.

I also got an overcurrent error when I plug the sensor into the shaker motor connection. Has anyone successfully gotten the shaker motor to trigger the UV lights flasher on the PinStadiums? Thanks again.

Go into the switch test mode and confirm that both the upper and lower leaf switches in the slingshot are properly working. The first thing I'd suspect is one of those 2 switches is reading as "closed".

Called it! I'm a Christmas Pinball Savant. j/k

This is the issue 90% of the time. Adjust the gap open on the leaf switches. Easy peasy. This is common and needed on many NIB games.

Fabulous work, thank you very much! Looks great!