I've heard this as well from other posts...that every year the thickness of the coat is changing..like to find that happy balance between wood protection and dimpling reduction. I hope its that and not that the factory making them has random settings and will always be a roll of the dice on what you'll get.

My LE did too. They are sending side art. Let me know how difficult it is to swap

Even wood dimples just look at all the older Bally Williams games. I believe they went the a thinner clear coat which helped alleviate the pooling issues that were seen early on with some of the older titles like JP for instance as well as removed artwork from under those posts.

What's up with pricing on these? My last stern preimum I purchased was $1000 or so below MSRP aka stern street price. But I reached out to a distributor to get in on a preimum and they are only selling MSRP + shipping. Did stern get rid of the street price program or is the distributor profiting the discount?

honestly, since my machine's currently against elvira on that side, and when EHOH sells, will be against the wall, I probably won't swap it until it's a necessity

Godzilla right now is Hot, real Hot!! If you happen to find a distro that has any and you get it for msrp then consider yourself lucky as many are selling it above right now with the shortages due to supply and demand of components from overseas.

MAP still exists, but demand is way more than supply so no distros are budging and rightfully so.

Someone has been living under a rock

Plastic under my bridge broke about a week in. I have the new plastic as well as a protector, but my concern is the protector is just going to make it thicker causing the bridge to hit it even harder? If I put the protector on top is it enough to keep it from cracking or does it make it more likely to crack because it sits higher? I thought about maybe just using the protector showing the captive ball assuming it's stronger then the original plastic obviously, which is kinda cool too.

So I haven't done anything yet ... thoughts?

Playfield-Protectors and a few other European companies have complete sets of plastic protectors, but it was pointed out that placing a plastic protector on top of the existing playfield plastic will just raise the impact zone, thereby making it even TIGHTer... (Update: see preceding post )

A simple solution that... someone (can't recall who) posted was to take a small piece of target foam, use scissors/blade to make it half as thick, and place it on top of the impact spot. I tried that as well, and it seems to work quite well as a practical solution, and since the art on the plastic is of crumbling mortar, it doesn't really clash, either.

I posted about mine earlier on the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/78#post-6632072

This is the one I snagged. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VG1FGBX

On the Pro I believe the plastic the flat GZ mounts on sits further back than the Prem, so reusing the screw hole there has him further back into the corner of the playfield, making it necessary to leave the last half of his tail disconnected. I am likely going to try mounting him farther forward once I get TDiddy's bridge added. That may or may not work with his height, though I think most of the Neca figures are all about the same height... If I recall correctly he is about 6.3 inches tall, but don't quote me - the ad is titled 7", but the description just says approx 6"tall, 12" total length with full tail attached (figure comes with last half of tail detached).

I think a clear protector on top would work if it is a polycarbonate type plastic. They tend to absorb impact. I wish all plastics were made of this. Pretty sure they wouldn't break in a game.

I was shocked to get a pro as a non-operator in the first run for $6150.

Just got my godzilla premium during black friday weekend, compliments of @nstone4425. Seriously love this game, and my fav stern so far!

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I bet if most premium owners look at the area that the ball drops on the mecha godzilla spinner ramp, they will see plenty of dimples.

I’m seeing plenty of dimples after about 100 games. No biggie, dimples happen.

78 games here and no dimples
Seems like luck of the draw on the wood. Sometimes hard sometimes soft

I have used single sided foam tape (black), cut just enough in size to protect bridge impact site and seems to work great and not noticeable while playing. Foam gets dented, but better than plastic getting banged directly. I wish there was a bridge setting to adjust how low it goes to prevent any hitting of plastic.

105 games, I've been beating up Mecha real good as I have plenty of dimples where the ball drops. No biggy as after a while that entire area will be ball peened it will look flat

I asked the seller about these micro-machines die cast tanks and he said they're about 35mm front to back, which should be a great size. All but one would need a few squirts of army green paint to cover the garish colors, but for about $2 each (if there's not a bidding war), hard to beat.

ebay.com link: itm
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The one I had 3D printed is 29.5mm as shown in the picture is just about 1 1/8". 35mm will put you at just a fraction below 1 1/2". For a few bucks it's worth the shot, especially that it took almost two hours to print that little SOB

I had the same problem, and the problem was the opto inside the loop. Smacking the playfield showed nothing, but dropping a ball in the loop just behind the building did. In switch test, look at the name of the switch triggered by flippers. If it is 'loop exit' you have to realign or replace the opto.

I know someone that just sold their LE unboxed and played for $14K.

IMO they will go up higher later next year.

Plus, those micro-micromachines tanks are metal (I think?), so they should be able to take an airball hit ok.

These are neat. 35mm wide or length? Was looking for something around the 35-40 wide so might be just what I'm looking for. Got the model for the M24 chaffee but that was going to take a long time to print

At that width (35-40mm) it would put the length just about 3 1/2 - 4", way too big IMHO. If you want something a little bigger although not Japan but a little paint can fix that, look at these.

ebay.com link: itm

The seller said it was 35mm front to back.

40mm is 1.57”

Gotcha. Yeah a little small i think. Maybe that 1:87 scale. Theres something I was planning on doing with it at that size on the wireform on top of the area of the tank spinner. I'll just print it and mess with it =)

There are existing micromachines that are larger. I was just looking for the smallest ones I could find.

Uguys are overthinking this tank stuff just toss a squirter in there(;

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Correct but notice he was talking about width in the 35-40mm range where I quoted him, so the scaled length would be between 3.5 - 4 inches.

My fault. When I reread his post I saw my error and deleted my reply. Sorry for the confusion.

Anyone have any idea if it's intended that earning two allies without collecting the first results in losing the second? I know you can lock in 2 or even all 3 at once, but it seems you need to have earned one and collected it before you can earn another.

I find myself earning two allies pretty frequently when playing Gigan as my first mode - jet attack usually starts pretty quickly after starting Gigan and it's easy to earn an ally for 4 ramps about the time I'm earning another for 5 jets destroyed... Then you end up only being able to collect one of the two... I'm guessing Keith and co. just expect you to prioritize cashing the first one in immediately.

theres distributers with NIB games on the market right now at inflated rates. Not even LEs, premiums now. EHOH 12,500 and BM66 9,995 from pinballs.com.

Which is really strange. You'd think as the largest distributor you'd have people on a waiting list for those games, but they are being sold on market instead

They see the opportunity and are taking it. They are large enough they aren't afraid of floating inventory.

Is there an adjustment to the magnet Newton ball mech? Mine doesn’t register very often when hit. Seems like it registers when the magnet is hit a glancing blow on the right hand side but rarely ever when struck head on or to the left side. Is there a sensitivity adjustment or other adjustment to make this happen more.

Thanks

It’s a captive ball with a target behind it. Adjust the sensitivity of the spot target behind the captive ball.

My Mom got her Gozilla Premium a few days ago. She really wanted a Jurassic Park but Stern never shipped it. She loves Godzilla second only to dinosaurs in general so it's a good consolation prize.

Damned if that game isn't fun as hell.

Had been a bit of a pinball hiatus for me, and am largely oblivious to how the hobby / market has been the past few years.

I guess. Well. Welcome back me.

Best sentence on here in a long time! Congrats, mom!

Welcome back!

My mom cant stand the noise and she monkey flips. So hearing about a mom ordering a game is super awesome!

So what are the must have mods so far? I am going to start collecting them while I wait for my machine. I have seen the UFO pop bumper and some replacement Godzillas.

I’m in, little sooner than I expected but can’t complain! 12/1/21 build date

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Thanks. I'm partial to her. She does her best and tries for shots. She's not a great player, but it keeps it fun for her and pinball events like Godzilla Multiball and the building collapsing feel like a real accomplishment to her and this machine does great handing out really fun rewards.

Have to say it's the most fun I've had on a Stern I think.

Never bought a new in box machine before. What are these little key chain looking widgets in the extra sticker bag?

What's a used Jurassic Park Premium go for?

Keychain doo-dads to put on a keyring.

Less than a Godzilla Prem. She picked a winner.

She could probably do a trade plus cash to her and have JP Prem owners lining up to make that deal.

Copied someone earlier on this thread with the huge Zilla that was a piggy bank on Amazon. Pleased because the scale compared to Mecha just makes much more sense.

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